Calle 10: a journey to Santa Marta's commercial past
If you walk through the Centro Histórico of Santa Marta, between Carrera 1 and Carrera 4, there is a street that seems to have frozen in time. It is Calle 10. While just a few blocks away buildings are being remodeled, specialty coffee shops are flourishing, and rental prices are skyrocketing, here shops that opened their doors when the 20th century was just beginning still resist. They are not museums or hipster boutiques: they are real businesses, with creaking wooden shelves, the smell of old paper, and owners who tell you the city's history while wrapping your purchase in newspaper.
In June 2026, when gentrification has already touched neighborhoods like El Prado or part of Carrera 5, Calle 10 remains a refuge of Samaria material culture. Here they don't sell souvenirs for tourists (although some stumble upon it by chance). They sell buttons, fabrics, old-fashioned medicines, shoemaker's tools, and books that no one else prints anymore. This article is a walking tour of four or five of those century-old shops, with real names, hard facts, and the pulse of a city that doesn't want to forget its past.
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What to do: the tour of century-old shops
The idea is simple: you start at the corner of Calle 10 with Carrera 4 and walk towards the sea, down to Carrera 1. It's barely three blocks, but each door is a chapter. There's no rush. Bring cash (here, the card machine is a rarity) and an explorer's mindset. I'll introduce you to the shops that are still breathing, with their exact names and stories.
1. Droguería Santa Marta (founded in 1915)
At Calle 10 # 3-45, a white-painted wooden facade announces "Droguería Santa Marta". Inside, Don Carlos Mendoza, 78 years old, serves behind a mahogany counter his grandfather bought in 1920. This is not a modern pharmacy: here they sell homeopathic remedies, grandmother's syrups, and ointments that are no longer available in chains like Farmatodo. The star product is "tiger balm", which has arrived in glass jars from Bogotá since 1930. Don Carlos tells you that during the pandemic, people lined up to buy antiseptic alcohol that he prepared himself. They are open Monday to Saturday, from 8am to 6pm. They don't accept cards, only cash.
2. Almacén El Siglo (founded in 1928)
Half a block away, at Calle 10 # 2-78, is Almacén El Siglo. It is a fabric and haberdashery store that looks like a treasure chest. Doña Elvira Pineda, the current owner (third generation), inherited the business from her father in 1985. The rolls of fabric reach the ceiling: drill, poplin, linen, cotton. But what they sell the most are buttons. Yes, buttons. There are whole jars with mother-of-pearl buttons, metal buttons, hard plastic buttons, wooden buttons. People come from Mamatoco looking for that exact button for a school uniform or a wedding dress. "Here we don't sell fashion, we sell necessity," says Doña Elvira. Hours: Monday to Saturday, 9am to 5pm. They accept cash and Nequi (they adapted two years ago).
3. Librería Cervantes (founded in 1945)
At Calle 10 # 2-12, a narrow door leads to Librería Cervantes. Not to be confused with the Spanish chain: this is a used bookstore, with books that smell of dampness and time. The owner, Don Rogelio Castro, 65 years old, bought the business in 1995 when the previous owner retired. Here you can find editions from the 1950s of García Márquez, mechanics manuals from the 70s, and Polish romance novels that no one knows how they got there. The star product is the old maps of Santa Marta, hand-drawn in 1940 by a local cartographer. Don Rogelio sells them for $25,000 COP each (reference price as of June 2026). They are open Tuesday to Sunday, 10am to 7pm. They accept cash and bank transfer.
4. Ferretería La Económica (founded in 1952)
At Calle 10 # 1-50, almost reaching Carrera 1, is Ferretería La Económica. It is a place that looks like a mechanic's workshop, but it's actually a hardware store specializing in tools for shoemakers and saddlers. Don Pedro Martínez, 72 years old, has been the owner since 1978. Here you can find wooden shoe lasts, leather needles, waxed thread, and blades that are no longer manufactured. "The shoemakers of Santa Marta come from all over the center because only here they find this," says Don Pedro. The star product is "contact adhesive in a stick", which he has imported from Barranquilla since the 80s. Hours: Monday to Saturday, 7am to 5pm. Cash only.
5. Bazar La Perla (founded in 1960)
To close the tour, at Calle 10 # 1-30, Bazar La Perla sells a bit of everything: tableware, glassware, tin toys, and kitchen items that seem taken from a period novel. The owner, Doña Carmen Vergara, 68 years old, inherited it from her mother. The star product is the thick glass cups with 70s prints, which people buy to decorate or use at parties. "Young people come looking for 'vintage' things, but for me, they are just things from my house," laughs Doña Carmen. They are open Monday to Saturday, 9am to 6pm. They accept cash and Nequi.
Stories of resistance against gentrification
Not everything is pretty nostalgia. Calle 10 has seen how the Centro Histórico has transformed. Ten years ago, on the same block, there were six hardware stores; today only La Económica remains. The others closed because the owners couldn't pay the rents, which went up 300% between 2015 and 2025, according to Don Carlos from Droguería Santa Marta. "Investors from Bogotá and Medellín arrive, they buy the buildings, turn them into hostels or restaurants, and they offer us crumbs to leave," he says while putting away a jar of balm.
Doña Elvira, from Almacén El Siglo, remembers when in 2022 a group of architects proposed pedestrianizing Calle 10. "It sounded nice, but we knew it was to put tables for expensive restaurants. The neighbors organized and we stopped the project." This resistance is not heroic, it's pragmatic: these shops are the livelihood of entire families. Don Rogelio, from Librería Cervantes, gives the example: "If I close, my children have nothing to eat. And it's not that I'm a millionaire, but here I have raised four children selling books for $5,000."
A curious fact: in 2024, the Mayor's Office of Santa Marta declared Calle 10 a "corridor of cultural interest" thanks to a petition signed by the owners of these five shops. But the declaration has no teeth: there are no subsidies or tax exemptions. "It's just a pretty piece of paper," says Don Pedro from Ferretería La Económica, while sharpening a blade on a grinding wheel he bought in 1965.
Where to eat or drink nearby
After walking Calle 10, hunger strikes. There are no gourmet restaurants in this area (yet), but there are authentic and cheap options.
- Panadería La Samaria: at Calle 10 with Carrera 3, a small shop that has sold cassava bread and arepas de huevo since 1970. An arepa costs $3,500 COP (reference price as of June 2026). Open from 6am to 2pm.
- Fritanga El Parque: at Carrera 2 with Calle 11, one block from Calle 10. They sell empanadas, patacones, and chorizos. Ideal for a quick lunch for $12,000 COP. Open from 11am to 8pm.
- Café El Viejo: at Carrera 1 with Calle 10, a place with plastic tables where they serve black coffee ($1,500 COP) and natural juices ($4,000 COP). The owner, Don Alberto, 80 years old, tells you stories of the city while preparing the coffee. Open from 7am to 6pm.
If you want something more formal, walk two blocks towards Carrera 5 and you'll find restaurants like La Casa de la Cerveza or El Bistro, but prices go up to $30,000 COP per dish.
How to get there and transportation
Getting to Calle 10 is easy because it's in the heart of the Centro Histórico. Here are the options:
- On foot: if you are at Plaza de Bolívar, walk south along Carrera 4 until you reach Calle 10. It's a 5-minute walk.
- City bus: routes that go through the center (like "Línea 1" or "Línea 8") drop you off at Carrera 5 with Calle 10. Ask the driver to let you know. The fare is $2,500 COP.
- Taxi: from the airport or El Rodadero, a taxi to the center costs between $15,000 and $20,000 COP. Ask to be dropped off at the corner of Calle 10 with Carrera 4.
- By private car: I don't recommend driving to Calle 10 because parking is scarce and expensive. There is a public parking lot at Carrera 2 with Calle 11, at $5,000 COP per hour.
A tip: avoid coming during peak hours (7-9am and 5-7pm) because traffic in the center is hellish, especially on Carrera 5.
Local tips
These tips will save you money and misunderstandings:
- Bring cash: as I said, most of these shops only accept bills. There is a Banco de Bogotá ATM at Carrera 4 with Calle 10, but sometimes it's out of cash. Better to withdraw money beforehand.
- Don't haggle too much: the prices are already low. Haggling over $1,000 COP can sound rude. If you want a discount, buy several things.
- Ask about the history: the owners love to tell how their businesses started. If you show interest, they will treat you like family. Say something like "How did this get here?" and they'll tell you the whole story.
- Flexible hours: some shops close at noon for lunch (from 12pm to 2pm). Don't arrive during that time or you'll find the door closed.
- Be careful with cameras: don't take photos without permission. Some owners don't like it because they think it's to "steal their idea" or because they are shy. Ask first.
- Visit on a Saturday: Saturdays are busier and sometimes the owners bring out special items they don't show during the week. Don Rogelio, from Librería Cervantes, only brings out the rarest books on Saturdays.
Frequently asked questions
What is the oldest shop on Calle 10?
Droguería Santa Marta, founded in 1915, is the oldest one still open. However, there are records of a grocery store called "El Porvenir" that operated on the same block from 1890 to 1970, but it no longer exists. If you want to see something really old, ask for the "tiger balm" that Don Carlos sells.
Do they accept credit cards or only cash?
Most only accept cash. Almacén El Siglo and Bazar La Perla accept Nequi (a Colombian mobile payment app). None accept credit or debit cards. If you are a foreigner, make sure you have Colombian pesos in small bills ($2,000, $5,000, and $10,000).
Is there parking near Calle 10?
Yes, there is a public parking lot at Carrera 2 with Calle 11, one block from Calle 10. It costs $5,000 COP per hour. You can also park on the street, but be careful with the "street owners" who sometimes ask for a "contribution" of $2,000 COP to "watch" the car. It's not mandatory, but it's common to give them something.
Do they sell things for tourists or only for locals?
They sell to everyone, but there are no typical "souvenirs". If you're looking for a fridge magnet or a "Santa Marta" t-shirt, this is not the place. Here they sell useful objects: buttons, fabrics, old books, tools. However, the old maps from Librería Cervantes are an excellent original souvenir, and the glass cups from Bazar La Perla are perfect to take home.
Are these shops in danger of closing due to gentrification?
Yes, the risk is real. The owners told me that rents have gone up a lot and there is pressure from investors to buy the premises. However, as long as the local community keeps buying there, and as long as tourists like you visit them, they can resist. The 2024 declaration of "corridor of cultural interest" doesn't provide money, but it does provide visibility. If you want to support them, buy something, even if it's a $500 COP button.
CTA: visit the oldest shop this Saturday
This Saturday, take the tour. Start at Droguería Santa Marta (Calle 10 # 3-45) and ask Don Carlos about the oral history of the business. Don't use Google Maps or guides; let him tell you what Santa Marta was like when there was no electricity in the center. If you feel like it, buy a jar of tiger balm ($8,000 COP) and take it as a souvenir. Then, keep walking to Librería Cervantes and ask them to show you the 1940 map. These are small details, but they are what keep the memory of this street alive. And if you see an owner sweeping the entrance, say hello. Here, everyone knows each other.
Historical or contextual introduction
Calle 10 in the Centro Histórico of Santa Marta is a place where history intertwines with daily life. This street, which has witnessed the evolution of the city, houses century-old shops that have maintained their essence over the years. These shops not only offer products, but also stories of generations that have passed through their doors. The colonial architecture that adorns the street is a reflection of Spanish influence and the cultural richness that has forged the Samaria identity.
If you are interested in learning more about local commerce, it is recommended to visit some of these emblematic places that have withstood the test of time.