Stained Glass Workshop: The Forgotten Art of San Antonio

The stained glass that refuses to disappear on the hills of San Antonio

If you have ever walked through the cobblestone streets of San Antonio, it has surely happened to you: a colored light filters through an old window and you stop, without quite knowing why. That light is no coincidence. Behind it lies a craft that refuses to die in Cali: the art of stained glass, the leaded glass that decorated houses from the early 20th century and that today barely survives in a workshop on Calle 9. In June 2026, while the city races towards modernity, a handful of artisans continue soldering lead and cutting glass as it was done a hundred years ago. This article is a guide to understanding that forgotten art, to know where to see it, how to restore it, and, if you feel like it, to learn to do it yourself.

Historical context: stained glass in San Antonio homes (1900-1950)

San Antonio was not always the bohemian neighborhood of galleries and bars you know today. At the beginning of the 20th century, it was the refuge of Cali's elite. Entire families built houses in republican and neoclassical styles, with high ceilings, internal patios, and, of course, stained glass. Stained glass was no minor luxury: bringing colored glass from Europe or Bogotá cost a fortune. But in a city where the sun beats down hard, light filtered through a stained glass window was a statement of status and taste.

Between 1900 and 1950, stained glass workshops in Cali were concentrated downtown and in San Antonio. Artists like the German Walter Klocker or the Caleño Hernando "Mono" González left their mark on windows, doors, and skylights. The motifs were varied: from geometric figures to representations of saints, flowers, and landscapes of the Valle. The leaded glass not only decorated: it also ventilated, protected from dust, and provided privacy without losing light.

Over time, the rise of concrete and minimalist facades displaced stained glass. By the 1970s, many workshops had closed. Old houses began to be sold or converted into restaurants, and the original stained glass windows were broken, replaced by common glass or simply bricked up. Today, of the more than 50 workshops that existed in the city, only one remains active in San Antonio. And that is the one we are going to visit.

The last active workshop on Calle 9: a visit to the heart of the craft

On Calle 9, between Carreras 5 and 6, there is a yellow facade that goes unnoticed. It has no large sign, only a hand-painted sign that says "Taller de Vitrales San Antonio". Inside, the smell of solder and cut glass greets you before the owner: Don Alberto Jaramillo, a 68-year-old man who learned the trade at 14, when his father sent him to work with an Italian master glassmaker who arrived in Cali in the 1950s.

Don Alberto is the living memory of stained glass in Cali. He received me on a Tuesday morning, while repairing a stained glass window from a house on Avenida 2 Norte. "Almost nobody wants to do this anymore," he told me without stopping his soldering. "Young people prefer their cell phones. But we keep going here, because there are still people who value the light of a well-made stained glass window."

The workshop is small: about 40 square meters, with work tables, shelves full of colored glass (cobalt blue, emerald green, ruby red, amber yellow) and tools that seem from another century: glass cutters, pliers, hammers, lead soldering irons. Don Alberto works alone, although he sometimes gets an occasional assistant. "Each stained glass window is unique," he explains. "No two are alike. That's why I take weeks on just one."

If you want to visit him, don't expect a showroom with prices on display. Don Alberto sees people without an appointment, but it's better to call ahead (you can get the number by asking at the corner store, on Carrera 5 with Calle 9). Reference prices as of June 2026: a basic restoration of a 1 square meter stained glass window can cost between $200,000 and $400,000 COP, depending on the damage. A new, custom-made stained glass window starts at $600,000 COP and can exceed $2,000,000 COP if it has complex details.

Step by step guide to restoring a domestic stained glass window

If you have an old stained glass window in your house in San Antonio or in another neighborhood, don't throw it away. Don Alberto taught me the basic restoration process. I'll tell you about it here, but be careful: don't try to do it without experience. Glass cuts, lead is toxic, and soldering requires practice. Better call a professional.

1. Damage assessment

The first thing is to check if the stained glass has broken glass, loose lead cames, or rusted solder joints. If it's just dirty, a cleaning with water and mild soap might suffice. If there are cracks or loose pieces, the affected section must be disassembled.

2. Careful disassembly

The stained glass is removed from the frame, being careful not to force the lead cames. The glass pieces are placed on a padded table. Don Alberto recommends using split leather gloves to avoid cutting yourself on the sharp edges.

3. Replacing broken glass

The empty space is measured, and a new piece of glass of the same color and thickness is cut. The glass should be "antique" or "artisanal" to match the rest. Using common modern glass looks out of place and can break due to thermal expansion.

4. Replacing lead cames

The old lead cames are cut with special shears. New H-shaped lead profiles are placed, which embrace the glass pieces. This requires patience: each piece must fit perfectly.

5. Soldering

The joints of the lead cames are soldered with tin and an electric soldering iron. The solder must be uniform, without excess. Don Alberto uses a 60/40 (tin/lead) mix for greater durability.

6. Puttying and cleaning

Special stained glass putty (a mix of linseed oil and calcium carbonate) is applied to seal the spaces between glass and lead. Then the excess is cleaned with a rag and left to dry for 24 hours.

7. Reinstallation

The stained glass is placed back in the frame, securing it with bronze nails or screws. It is sealed with silicone to prevent water leaks.

A curious fact: Don Alberto told me that many original stained glass windows in San Antonio used "mouth-blown" glass, which has bubbles and undulations. This gives them a unique brilliance. If you find a stained glass window like that, don't replace it with modern flat glass. "That's like changing a Botero painting for a print," he says.

Map of 5 public stained glass windows visible from the street in San Antonio

You don't need to enter any house to see stained glass in San Antonio. Here are five places where you can appreciate them from the sidewalk. They are perfect for a one-hour walk, with stops for photos.

1. San Antonio Church (Carrera 6 with Calle 2): The main facade has a circular stained glass window of the Virgen del Carmen, restored in 2023. Visible from the square. The blue and red colors are original from 1920.
2. Casa del Virrey (Carrera 5 # 2-45): On the second-floor window, a geometric art deco stained glass window from the 1930s. It is clearly visible from the street, especially at sunset, when the sun illuminates it from the front.
3. Hotel San Antonio (Carrera 4 # 3-12): The entrance has an abstract stained glass window with bird shapes, made by Don Alberto's workshop in 2018. It is protected by a grille, but it is clearly visible.
4. Casa de la Cultura de San Antonio (Carrera 6 # 1-30): On the side door, there is a stained glass window with floral motifs, restored in 2021. It is small but very detailed, with petals in orange and yellow tones.
5. Building of the old Farmacia San Antonio (Calle 3 with Carrera 5): An advertising stained glass window from the 1940s promoting "Jabón Reuter". It is rare: it combines text with an image of a woman. It is half-hidden by an awning, but if you look up, you can see it.

Tip: bring binoculars or a phone with zoom. Some stained glass windows are high up and the details are lost. And don't forget to ask at the Casa del Virrey if they are holding open workshops (more on that at the end).

Where to eat or drink near the stained glass workshop

After visiting Don Alberto, you will surely be hungry or thirsty. Calle 9 and its surroundings have options for all tastes. Here are three local recommendations, not the typical touristy ones.

• La Casa de la Abuela (Carrera 5 # 9-45): A family restaurant that has been around for 30 years. Specialty: sancocho de gallina ($18,000 COP) and lulo juice. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 11am-7pm. It is two blocks from the workshop.
• El Solar de la 9 (Calle 9 # 4-30): A café-bar with a terrace that sometimes holds art exhibitions. They have craft beer ($8,000 COP per pint) and pipián empanadas ($3,000 COP each). Open Thursday to Sunday, 4pm-11pm.
• Panadería San Antonio (Carrera 6 # 8-12): Ideal for a quick breakfast. They sell pandequeso ($1,500 COP) and black coffee ($2,000 COP). Open every day from 6am to 8pm. It has no tables, but you can eat on the bench in the square.

If you prefer something more formal, the restaurant El Mesón de San Antonio (Carrera 4 # 2-15) offers Colombian dishes with a gourmet touch, but the prices are higher (dishes from $35,000 COP).

How to get there and transportation to the stained glass workshop on Calle 9

Getting to Don Alberto's workshop is simple. San Antonio is a central neighborhood, well connected. Here are the options:

• On foot: If you are in downtown Cali, walk west along Calle 9. From Plaza de Cayzedo, it's about 15 minutes. Going up the hill, you pass the San Antonio Church and then look for Carrera 5.
• By bus: The routes that pass by Calle 9 are T47 and A14. Ask the driver "¿deja en la calle 9 con carrera 5?" The fare is $2,900 COP (2026 rate).
• By taxi or Uber: From any point in Cali, a taxi to the San Antonio neighborhood costs between $8,000 and $15,000 COP, depending on traffic. Say "calle 9 con carrera 5, San Antonio".
• By private car: There is parking on Calle 9, but it is scarce. I recommend the parking lot on Carrera 6 with Calle 2 (costs $4,000 COP per hour). Do not leave valuables in sight.

A tip: avoid arriving during rush hour (7am-9am and 5pm-7pm) because the climb to San Antonio gets congested. The best time to visit the workshop is between 10am and 12 noon.

Local tips for enjoying stained glass art in San Antonio

Here are tips that only a Caleño would give you, based on my experience and what Don Alberto told me.

• Don't touch the stained glass: It seems obvious, but many people put their hands on the glass to take photos. The oil from your skin damages the lead and dulls the color. Use a cloth if you need to clean something.
• Visit in the afternoon: Stained glass looks best between 3pm and 5pm, when the sun from the west illuminates it from inside. At noon, the light is too strong and the colors look flat.
• Bring cash: Don Alberto does not accept credit cards or Nequi. If you want to buy a stained glass window or pay for a restoration, bring bills. Prices are negotiable, but don't haggle too much: the craft is expensive and he lives off it.
• Respect the workshop hours: Don Alberto works Monday to Friday, 8am to 5pm, but sometimes closes early if he has an urgent commission. If you are traveling from far away, call ahead to the number they give you at the corner store.
• Look up: Besides the stained glass, San Antonio has carved wooden balconies and clay roof tiles. The entire architecture is a work of art. Don't just focus on the glass.
• Buy a souvenir: Don Alberto sells small hand-held stained glass pieces (about 15x15 cm) for $30,000 COP. They are perfect to take as a souvenir or gift. He doesn't always have them in stock, so ask.

Schedule of public workshops: learn to make stained glass

If after reading this you feel like giving it a try, you're in luck. The Casa del Virrey (Carrera 5 # 2-45) organizes free stained glass workshops on the first Saturday of every month. The next one is this Saturday, at 10am. It lasts three hours and teaches you the basics: cutting glass, handling lead, and soldering. You don't need experience or tools. Just bring clothes you can get dirty and a willingness to learn.

The workshop is taught by Don Alberto in person, with the help of two volunteers. Space is limited to 15 people. To sign up, you have to go to the Casa del Virrey from Monday to Friday, between 9am and 4pm, and leave your details. There is no cost, but if you want to make a stained glass piece to take home, the material costs $50,000 COP. It is a unique opportunity to learn from a master who hardly teaches anymore.

Additionally, this Saturday, June 15, 2026, there will be an exhibition of antique stained glass at the same Casa del Virrey, with pieces from private collections that have never been shown to the public. Free entry, from 11am to 6pm. Don't miss it.

Frequently asked questions

How much does it cost to restore a stained glass window in San Antonio?

It depends on the size and damage. A 1 square meter stained glass window with broken glass and loose lead cames can cost between $200,000 and $400,000 COP. If it only needs cleaning and puttying, the price drops to $80,000 COP. Don Alberto charges by the hour of work ($50,000 COP per hour) plus materials. Always ask for an estimate before starting.

Can you buy new handmade stained glass in San Antonio?

Yes, at Don Alberto's workshop. He makes custom stained glass windows with personalized designs. A simple stained glass window (50x50 cm) costs from $300,000 COP. A larger one or one with complex details can reach $1,500,000 COP. Delivery time is 2 to 4 weeks.

Are there other active stained glass workshops in Cali?

As of June 2026, Don Alberto's workshop on Calle 9 is the only active one in San Antonio. In downtown Cali, there are two other workshops, but they focus on tempered glass and not artisanal stained glass. One is on Carrera 4 with Calle 15, but they don't work with lead. If you want the traditional craft, come here.

What to do

Visit the San Antonio Stained Glass Workshop

This workshop is the heart of stained glass art in Cali. Here you can see the artisans in action, creating unique pieces that reflect the light and history of the neighborhood. Don't hesitate to ask about the process and the story behind each stained glass window.

Insider Tip: Make sure to visit in the morning hours, when natural light highlights the vibrant colors of the stained glass. Also, bring a camera; photo opportunities are abundant.

Walk the cobblestone streets

Strolling through San Antonio allows you to enjoy the colonial architecture and the bohemian atmosphere of the place. The brightly painted houses and small squares are perfect for getting lost for a while.

Insider Tip: Bring a local map and look for the urban art pieces hidden on the streets. Many local artists have expressed their talent in murals that tell stories of the neighborhood.

Visit the San Antonio Church

This church, an icon of the neighborhood, is not only a place of worship but also a cultural meeting point. From its viewpoint, you can get a panoramic view of Cali that is worth it.

Insider Tip: If you can, attend a mass or a sacred music concert. The acoustics of the place are impressive and the experience is unique.