Historical or Contextual Introduction
In the heart of the Historic Center of Santa Marta, the Catedral Basílica de Santa Marta was not always just a place for masses and tourism. Between the late 1980s and early 1990s, when the Colombian armed conflict hit the capital of Magdalena hard, its stone walls became a refuge for dozens of families fleeing bombings and bullets. Today, few tour guides mention that under that same atrium where visitors take photos, children slept on cardboard while explosions sounded outside. This article reconstructs that story, based on accounts from neighbors, the testimony of the priest who served during those years, and the commemorative plaques that time has left forgotten.
The conflict in Santa Marta was not an isolated episode. The city, a strategic port in the Colombian Caribbean, experienced the onslaught of armed groups such as the National Liberation Army (ELN) and the United Self-Defense Forces of Colombia (AUC), who disputed control of drug trafficking routes and corridors towards the Sierra Nevada. Between 1989 and 1991, clashes in the urban center were constant. On March 22, 1990, a series of bombs exploded near the Public Market, just three blocks from the Cathedral. That day, the atrium ceased to be a space for prayer and became an improvised camp.
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The Cathedral, built between 1766 and 1796, has an architecture that invites reflection. But for those who lived through that time, its value goes beyond the aesthetic: it was the only place where the noise of bullets felt less close. "When the shots rang out, everyone ran here," recalls Doña Carmen, a fruit vendor who has been in Plaza de Bolívar for 40 years. "The priest didn't close the doors even at night. He said war didn't enter here."
As of May 2026, this memory remains alive in the stories of the neighborhood's oldest residents, but not in tourist brochures. This article seeks to fill that gap, connecting the violent past with how the conflict shaped the commerce, architecture, and identity of the Historic Center.
What to Do
Walk the Atrium with Eyes of Memory
The Cathedral's atrium is the starting point to understand what happened. Although it is now clean and surrounded by palm trees, traces of that era can still be found. At the base of the left column of the main facade, there is a small plaque, almost faded by the sun, that reads: "To those who found peace here in the storm, 1990." It does not appear in any official guide. To see it, you have to bend down and look among the afternoon shadows. Locals call it "the plaque of the nobodies" because it has no names, only a date.
You can also walk along Calle 17, which borders the Cathedral on the south side. There, on the wall of a handicraft shop, there is an old graffiti that says "They took them away alive," painted by students from Liceo Celedón school in 1991, in memory of a missing classmate. The shop owners have kept it intact, although some tourists mistake it for a modern mural.
Visit the Commemorative Plaque at Parque de los Novios
Two blocks from the Cathedral, in Parque de los Novios (Calle 19 with Carrera 4), there is a monument few know about: a bronze plaque installed in 1995 that remembers the victims of the conflict in Santa Marta. It is next to a bench, half-covered by a rubber tree. The plaque lists 47 names, mostly merchants from the center who were killed between 1988 and 1994. It is a place of silence, ideal for those who want to understand the human scale of the violence the neighborhood experienced.
Join the 'Memory Walk'
Every April 9th, since 2018, a group of neighbors organizes the 'Memory Walk', which leaves at 4 p.m. from the main door of the Cathedral. The tour lasts approximately two hours and passes through seven key points: the atrium, the Public Market, Parque de los Novios, the old police station (now the Ombudsman's office), Calle del Crimen (Calle 14), the San Miguel cemetery, and the Mayor's office square. During the walk, the guides—all local volunteers—tell first-hand stories. There are no political speeches, only accounts from those who lived through the conflict. The activity is free and open to the public. It is recommended to bring water, a hat, and comfortable shoes, because the sun in May is strong.
Look for the Memory Murals in the Center
Since 2021, the Fundación Memoria Samaria has painted five murals on facades in the Historic Center that narrate episodes of the conflict. The most famous is on Carrera 5 with Calle 16, on the wall of the old Olympia cinema. It shows a white dove against a background of collapsed houses, with the phrase "Peace is also built from the center." Another mural, on Calle 20 with Carrera 3, depicts a woman carrying a child while fleeing an explosion. The murals have no visiting hours, but they look best in the mornings, when the light does not dazzle them.
Where to Eat or Drink
La Tienda de Doña Carmen (Calle 16 # 4-25)
Doña Carmen, the fruit vendor we mentioned at the beginning, now has a small natural juice stand on the corner of Calle 16 with Carrera 4. She was in the atrium during the 1990 bombings. "Right here, I was selling oranges while people hid," she says. Her corozo juice is legendary among the neighbors, and it costs $4,000 COP (reference price as of May 2026). There is no table, only a wooden bench where you can sit and listen to her stories. Open Monday to Saturday, 7 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Restaurante El Refugio (Carrera 3 # 18-12)
Half a block from the Cathedral, this family restaurant occupies what was once a warehouse where displaced people stored their belongings during the clashes. Today they serve executive lunches from $15,000 COP. The main dish is the "sudado de pescado samario," prepared with the recipe of the owner's grandmother, Doña Lidia. She recounts that during the hardest years, her mother cooked in community pots for the refugees sleeping in the atrium. The restaurant has a mural on the back wall with photos from that era. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.
Panadería La Paz (Calle 17 # 3-50)
This bakery, founded in 1985, was the only business that did not close during the curfews of 1990. The owner, Don José, baked bread in the early morning and distributed it among the families taking refuge in the Cathedral. Today, his daughter runs the place and sells the famous "pan de yuca relleno de queso" at $2,500 COP each. There is no large sign, only a faded blue awning. Locals know it as "the bread of war." Open every day from 5 a.m. to 7 p.m.
Bar La Placa (Calle 19 # 4-10)
In Parque de los Novios, this bar is the meeting point for participants of the Memory Walk after the tour. They serve cold beer at $5,000 COP and offer a "memory menu": a plate of patacones with hogao that costs $12,000 COP. The walls are decorated with old photos of the center and newspaper clippings from the 1990s. The atmosphere is relaxed, with classic vallenato music playing in the background. Open Thursday to Sunday, 4 p.m. to 11 p.m.
How to Get There and Transportation
The Historic Center of Santa Marta is compact and walkable. The Cathedral is located in Plaza de Bolívar, at the intersection of Carrera 4 and Calle 16. From any point in the center, reaching it on foot takes a maximum of 15 minutes.
- By city bus: The routes that pass through the center are Line 1 (Market - Airport) and Line 8 (Bastidas - Center). The fare is $2,600 COP (reference price as of May 2026). Ask to get off at "Plaza de Bolívar" or "Catedral."
- By taxi: From Simón Bolívar Airport, a taxi to the Cathedral costs between $20,000 and $25,000 COP, depending on traffic. From El Rodadero, the trip costs around $30,000 COP. Always agree on the price before getting in.
- On foot from the Malecón: If you come from the Malecón (Calle 1), walk north on Carrera 1 to Calle 16, then turn right. It is about a 20-minute leisurely walk.
- By bicycle: There are public bicycle stations from the "Samaria en Bici" system in Plaza de Bolívar. Hourly rental costs $2,000 COP. You must register with an ID document.
Local Tips
- Don't trust traditional tour guides: Most center tours omit the violent past. If you want to hear the real stories, look for guides from the Fundación Memoria Samaria, who offer themed tours on Saturdays at 10 a.m. starting from the Cathedral. They cost $20,000 COP per person.
- Bring cash: Many of the food stalls and handicraft vendors near the Cathedral do not accept cards or transfers. There is an ATM on Carrera 4 with Calle 17, but it is sometimes empty on weekends.
- Respect quiet hours: In the Cathedral's atrium, especially in the afternoons, elderly neighbors sit down to rest. Avoid talking loudly or playing loud music. It is a space for reflection, not a party.
- Look for the forgotten plaque: The commemorative plaque on the left column of the Cathedral is easy to miss. Bring a flashlight or use your phone's light to read it, because sunlight does not reach that area well after 3 p.m.
- Talk to the vendors in Plaza de Bolívar: The oldest ones, like Doña Carmen or Don Pedro, the lottery seller, know stories that are not in any book. If you buy something from them (a juice, a raspado), they open up and tell stories. Don't ask directly "did you live through the war?"; instead say "what was this place like before?"
- Avoid extreme heat hours: Between 11 a.m. and 2 p.m., the sun in the center can be unbearable. If you plan the memory walk on your own, do it early in the morning or after 4 p.m.
- Don't take photos of the plaques without permission: Some families of victims consider the plaques to be sacred places. If you see someone near one, ask if you can photograph it. At the plaque in Parque de los Novios, for example, there are sometimes fresh flowers left by family members.
Reflection: Why Do Tour Guides Omit This Past?
I have heard this question dozens of times on the walks. The answer, according to several local guides I have spoken with, is complex. On one hand, tourism in Santa Marta has historically focused on the beaches, Parque Tayrona, and Ciudad Perdida. The center is sold as a "picturesque" or "colonial" place, not as a war scenario. On the other hand, there is a pain that many prefer not to stir up. "People don't like to remember the bad times," a handicraft vendor once told me. "Tourists come to relax, not to hear tragedies."
But this omission has a cost. By ignoring the conflict, the resilience of the Samarios who rebuilt their lives among the rubble is erased. The victims are made invisible, and violence is normalized as something from the past that does not deserve to be named. In May 2026, when the country talks about total peace, remembering what happened in the Historic Center is not an act of morbid curiosity, but of justice. The forgotten plaques, the worn-out murals, and the stories of the elderly are proof that the war was not only in the mountains: it was also here, at the door of the Cathedral.
The next time you walk through Plaza de Bolívar, look towards the columns. Maybe you will find that small plaque. And if you do, ask yourself: how many more stories are waiting to be told?
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it safe to visit the Historic Center of Santa Marta today?
Yes, the Historic Center is safe for tourists during the day and until the early hours of the night. Police presence is constant in Plaza de Bolívar and its surroundings. However, as in any central area of a Colombian city, it is recommended not to show valuable items ostentatiously and to avoid lonely streets after 9 p.m. The Cathedral and Parque de los Novios are particularly well-guarded.
Where can I find more information about the history of the conflict in Santa Marta?
In addition to the murals and plaques, the Archivo Histórico del Magdalena, located at Carrera 1 # 20-20 (Government building), has a collection of local newspapers from the 1980s and 1990s that document the violent episodes. Entry is free, but you must make an appointment by calling the Government's number. You can also consult the book "Santa Marta: memorias de una ciudad herida" by Samaria historian Lucía Martínez, available at the Librería Nacional in the Buenavista Shopping Center.
Does the Memory Walk take place all year round or only on April 9th?
The official walk is every April 9th, in commemoration of the Day of Memory and Solidarity with the Victims of the Armed Conflict in Colombia. However, the Fundación Memoria Samaria organizes similar tours on the last Saturday of each month, with the same starting point (the Cathedral) at 4 p.m. These tours are shorter (one and a half hours) and do not require prior registration. It is recommended to arrive 15 minutes early to hear the instructions.