Vertical Ghettos: Life in the Apartment Blocks of Popular Neighborhoods

Introduction: Architecture that tells stories

When you walk through Medellín, the first thing that catches your eye are the hills covered in bricks, windows, and clotheslines. That iconic image of the city is no coincidence. Behind each apartment block lies a story of migration, struggle, and survival. The so-called "vertical ghettos" — a term we use here without the stigma it carries in other countries — are the result of decades of disorderly growth, but also of popular ingenuity. In neighborhoods like Boston, Niquía, or 12 de Octubre, life is not lived in houses with gardens, but in buildings of five, ten, or even fifteen stories, where the neighbor upstairs lends you salt and the guy on the third floor blasts music on Saturdays. This article is for the traveler who wants to understand how life is really lived in Medellín, beyond the picturesque facades of El Poblado or the murals of Comuna 13.

Architecture as a social reflection

The popular apartment blocks in Medellín did not arise from architectural whim. During the 1960s and 1970s, the city received massive waves of people displaced from the countryside, fleeing bipartisan violence and, later, drug trafficking. The local government and private companies began building vertical housing complexes to house this population quickly and cheaply. The result: identical towers, with exposed brick facades and narrow balconies, repeated like a postage stamp across entire neighborhoods.

Today, in July 2026, these blocks remain the home of thousands of families. But make no mistake: they are not marginalized areas in the classic sense. They are vibrant communities, with their own rules, economies, and ways of relating. Verticality is not a barrier, but a stage where daily life is reinvented. In Boston, for example, the buildings from the 1970s have narrow hallways that smell of sancocho and laundry soap. In Niquía, the newer blocks have doormen with private security, but the same neighborhood spirit.

Fun fact: Many of these buildings were designed by the architect Rogelio Salmona, though not all recognize it. Salmona, a Colombian-Frenchman, was a pioneer in using brick as the main material, giving Medellín that reddish texture that characterizes it.

A day in the life: routines in the blocks

To understand life in these vertical ghettos, you have to get up early. At 5:00 a.m., the hallways are already alive. The noise of metal doors, the voices of neighbors getting ready for work, and the smell of freshly brewed coffee. On the first floors, the ladies open their improvised shops: a cooler with sodas, a display case with arepas, a bag of fresh bread. There are no big supermarkets; the economy is neighborhood-based.

At noon, children leave school and the building fills with shouts and laughter. Moms or grandmothers sit on the stairs to watch over them while doing chores. Elevators, when they exist, are a luxury. In most old blocks, climbing to the seventh floor on foot is part of the routine. Young people gather on the corners of the first floor, where there is a community hall or a micro-soccer court. There, Sunday games are planned and neighborhood fights are settled.

At nightfall, life moves to the balconies. People bring out plastic chairs, put on music, and chat with neighbors across the way. It is a vertical theater: each window tells a story. And if there is a birthday, the whole building knows. The party can be heard three floors up.

The invisible businesses: hair salons and shops in hallways

One of the things that surprises tourists the most is that inside these blocks there is an underground economy that does not appear on Google Maps. On the hallways of the second and third floors, apartment doors become storefronts. A lady cuts hair in her living room, charging 10,000 pesos. Another sells empanadas from a window facing the hallway. There are sewing workshops, bicycle repair shops, and even small stationery stores.

These businesses have no flashy signs or advertising. They are spread by word of mouth. If you need a quick haircut, ask the doorman or the lady at the first-floor shop. They know who has the clippers and who makes the best buñuelos on weekends. It is key to understand that these businesses are not informal in a negative sense: they are part of the social fabric that keeps the neighborhood alive. Trust is the currency of exchange.

Recommendation for travelers: If you want to experience this without feeling intrusive, look for a neighborhood hair salon in the 12 de Octubre neighborhood. Many are on Calle 104 with Carrera 64. Ask for a basic haircut (costs between 12,000 and 18,000 COP) and chat with the barber. He will tell you stories that no tour guide knows.

How to visit responsibly (unwritten protocols)

Visiting these neighborhoods is not like going to a museum. They are residential areas where people live their daily lives. If you want to get to know them without being a nuisance, follow these unwritten rules:

• Don't take photos without permission. Asking "can I take a picture of your house?" is basic courtesy. Many people get uncomfortable if you point the camera without warning.
• Dress without drawing attention. Avoid expensive brand-name clothes or flashy accessories. In these neighborhoods, discretion is respect. A basic t-shirt, jeans, and worn-out sneakers are the ideal uniform.
• Don't enter buildings without an invitation. The blocks have doormen or security systems. If you don't know anyone, stay in the common areas: the street, the corner store, or the court. Don't ring doorbells at random.
• Buy from local businesses. If you are thirsty, buy a soda from the corner store, not from a chain supermarket. This supports the neighborhood economy and builds trust.
• Respect quiet hours. After 10 p.m., most people settle in. Don't make noise or organize large groups that draw attention.

Protocol for organized tours: If you hire a tour, make sure the guide is local. Responsible agencies like "Real City Tours" or "Medellín City Services" work with residents of the neighborhoods. Avoid tourist buses that speed by with tinted windows; that is poverty tourism, not cultural exchange.

Neighborhoods with this characteristic: Boston, Niquía, 12 de Octubre

Not all vertical blocks are the same. Here I tell you about the particularities of three representative neighborhoods:

Boston

Located in the east-central part of Medellín, Boston is one of the oldest neighborhoods with this type of architecture. Its buildings date from the 60s and 70s, many of them built by the Instituto de Crédito Territorial. The facades are exposed brick, with small balconies and wrought iron grilles. Life here is intense: there are pool halls, popular music bars, and a mix of long-time residents and university students. Key address: Carrera 18 with Calle 44, where there is a complex of towers known as "Los Pinos". Don't miss Doña Lucía's shop, which has been selling chócolo arepas since 1978.

Niquía

In the municipality of Bello, just north of Medellín, Niquía is famous for its apartment blocks from the 80s and 90s. Here the verticality is more modern: towers of 12 to 15 stories with elevators and doormen. The neighborhood has a mix of working class and lower-middle class. Interestingly, many apartments have been converted into budget hostels for travelers on a tight budget. Practical tip: the Niquía metro station drops you right at the entrance of the neighborhood. The rental price for a two-bedroom apartment is around 800,000 COP per month (reference prices for July 2026).

12 de Octubre

This neighborhood, in the northwestern area of Medellín, is the clearest example of how the community appropriates vertical space. The blocks are smaller (5 or 6 stories) and organized in gated complexes. There are community green areas, courts, and community halls. Here, social life is intense: on weekends, soccer tournaments and bazaars are organized. Gastronomic recommendation: on Calle 104 with Carrera 64, there is an empanada stand that opens from 6 p.m. to 11 p.m. The shredded beef ones are legendary.

Where to eat or drink (in these neighborhoods)

Eating in these neighborhoods is not about going to a restaurant with linen tablecloths. It is about sitting on a plastic chair and ordering what the lady of the house has on the stove. Here are some must-stop places:

• La Tienda de Don Pedro (Boston): On Carrera 18 with Calle 43. Sells breakfasts from 6 a.m.: calentao, arepa with cheese, and coffee. Price: 5,000 COP.
• El Fogón de la Abuela (Niquía): Near the metro station. Offers executive lunches from Monday to Friday: bandeja paisa, sancocho de gallina, or sobrebarriga. Price: 12,000 COP.
• Puesto de Arepas de Chócolo (12 de Octubre): On the corner of Calle 104 with Carrera 64. Open from 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. The arepas come with costeño cheese and butter. Price: 3,000 COP each.

For drinks, look for neighborhood stores that sell cold beer (Aguila or Poker) at 2,500 COP per bottle. Don't expect signature cocktails; here they drink Antioqueño aguardiente or Viejo de Caldas rum.

How to get there and transportation

Getting to these neighborhoods is easy using the Medellín metro system. Here are the routes:

• Boston: Take line A of the metro to the "Poblado" station (don't confuse it with the neighborhood). Walk north along Carrera 18 for 15 minutes. You can also take a feeder bus from the "San Antonio" station.
• Niquía: Line A of the metro to the terminal station "Niquía". Exit and you are in the neighborhood. The blocks are a 5-minute walk from the station.
• 12 de Octubre: Take line A to the "Caribe" station. Then, a feeder bus with the "12 de Octubre" route that drops you at the entrance of the neighborhood. The bus ride takes 10 minutes.

Local tip: Avoid taking taxis from downtown if you don't know the area. Taxi drivers sometimes overcharge. Use the metro or apps like Uber or Didi, which are more transparent with fares.

Local tips

• Learn to greet: In these neighborhoods, a "good morning" or "good afternoon" when entering a store or passing through a hallway is mandatory. Ignoring people will make you seem arrogant.
• Carry cash: Many businesses do not accept cards or transfers. ATMs are scarce. Withdraw money before arriving.
• Don't use your cell phone on the street at night: Although it is not as dangerous as it is made out to be, it is better to keep your phone in your pocket after 8 p.m. Discretion avoids problems.
• Ask before going up: If you see an interesting building, don't enter without permission. Ask the doorman or a neighbor if you can look at the hallway. Most will say yes if you are friendly.
• Join a soccer game: On Sunday mornings, the courts of the residential complexes fill up. If you are invited to play, accept. It is the best way to connect with the community.

Frequently asked questions

Is it safe to visit these neighborhoods?

Yes, as long as you go with respect and common sense. During the day, most of these neighborhoods are quiet. Avoid carrying valuables in plain sight and don't go into lonely alleys. If you go in a group or with a local guide, there is no major risk. The insecurity sometimes mentioned is more common at night and in specific areas, not throughout the entire neighborhood.

Can I rent an apartment in one of these blocks for a few days?

Yes, there are options on Airbnb or in local hostels. In Niquía, for example, several apartments are rented to tourists for 30,000 to 50,000 COP per night. However, check that the building has good ventilation and that the hot water works. Many old blocks do not have a water heater, so prepare for cold showers.

How do I know if a building is one of the historic "vertical ghettos"?

Look for the typical characteristics: exposed brick facade without cladding, balconies with iron grilles, clotheslines on the windows, and a concrete sign with the name of the complex (e.g., "Edificio Los Pinos" or "Conjunto Residencial La Pradera"). If you see a building over 8 stories with these features, it is very likely part of this architectural phenomenon.

CTA: Want to delve deeper into local culture? Join our gastronomic tour through Belén, where you will taste arepas, empanadas, and sancocho while walking through popular neighborhoods. Includes a local guide and stops at neighborhood stores. Book at malokal.com/tours/belen