Castilla: the neighborhood where walls speak of memory and resistance
If you walk through comuna 5 in Medellín, specifically through the Castilla neighborhood, you will find something you don't expect: murals that are not simple decorations, but living archives of what happened here. On every corner, on every facade, there is a story of resistance, struggle, and memory. It is not art for art's sake: it is a cry that was painted. In April 2026, as you walk these streets, you see that the neighborhood continues to tell its own version of history, far from official discourses.
Castilla was one of the epicenters of the armed conflict in the 90s and 2000s. Gangs, paramilitaries, and the state fought for control. But the residents, instead of letting fear silence everything, grabbed brushes and spray cans to turn pain into memory. Today, these graffiti are a visual map of what must not be forgotten.
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What to do: a tour of the memory murals
The first thing you need to know is that there is no official tourist route here. You create the tour yourself, by talking to people and following the traces of color. But there are key places you can't miss if you want to understand urban art as testimony.
Mural "Los niños de la guerra" (Calle 99 con Carrera 64)
This mural is a direct punch to the gut. Painted by the collective Semillas de la Memoria, it shows a group of children with lost gazes, surrounded by rubble and weapons. The technique is mixed: spray paint and brush, with hyper-realistic details on the faces. It was created in 2019 as part of a community workshop with young people from the neighborhood. The exact coordinates are 6.2612° N, 75.5789° W. If you stand in front of it, you will notice that the children's eyes follow you, as if asking you not to forget.
Pared de las mariposas (Carrera 65 con Calle 98)
A tribute to the victims of forced disappearance. There are over 50 yellow butterflies, each with the name of a person who never returned. The technique is stencil and spray paint, with a style that mixes realism and symbolism. It was painted by Mujeres Tejedoras de Memoria, a collective of mothers and grandmothers searching for their children. The butterflies are not fixed: every year, on May 30th, new ones are added. It is a living mural, growing with pain and hope.
Mural "El grito de la tierra" (Calle 96 con Carrera 66)
This mural is enormous: it covers an entire three-story facade. It shows an indigenous woman with her fist raised, surrounded by crops and rivers. It is a tribute to the displaced peasants who arrived in Castilla fleeing violence. The technique is traditional muralism with acrylic, and it was created by Colectivo Raíces in 2021. The coordinates are 6.2635° N, 75.5812° W. If you get close, you will see that the woman has a ribbon on her head with the colors of the flag of Colombia, but stained red.
Where to eat or drink: stops to recharge your energy
After walking and seeing so much, you will get hungry. There are no fancy restaurants here, but there are food stalls that are part of the neighborhood. Try the street food, which is cheap and honest.
La Esquina de la Abuela (Calle 97 con Carrera 64)
A stall selling empanadas and arepas that has been around for 30 years. Doña Marta, the owner, is one of the founders of the memory collective. While you eat a beef empanada (2,500 COP each), she can tell you how they painted the mural on the corner. They are open Monday to Saturday, 6am to 8pm. There is no written menu: ask what there is, and she will tell you.
La Trocha (Carrera 63 con Calle 99)
A small restaurant that sells bandeja paisa for 18,000 COP. It is the meeting point for local artists. The walls are full of sketches and photos of the murals. The owner, Don Carlos, was a painter in the 90s and can give you historical facts you won't find on the internet. They are open Tuesday to Sunday, 11am to 9pm.
Helados Castilla (Calle 98 con Carrera 65)
An artisanal ice cream cart selling from 3,000 COP. The owner, Jairo, is a member of the Semillas de la Memoria collective. The flavors have names like "Mariposa" (soursop) or "Resistencia" (coffee with panela). It is perfect for cooling off after walking. Open every day, 10am to 6pm.
How to get there and transportation
Getting to Castilla is easy if you use the public transportation system of Medellín. You don't need a taxi or car, unless you want more comfort.
- Metro: Take line A to the Universidad station. From there, take a bus that says "Castilla" or "Castañeda". The trip takes about 15 minutes. The metro fare is 2,800 COP (2026).
- Bus: From downtown, you can take the Castañeda-Castilla route that leaves from calle 44 with carrera 51. The fare is 2,600 COP. Ask the driver to let you know when you reach calle 98.
- Bicycle: If you rent a bicycle (there are EnCicla stations at the Universidad station), you can ride up carrera 64. It is a steep climb, but it is worth it. The service is free with prior registration.
- On foot: If you are in downtown, you can walk, but it takes about 40 minutes. It is safe during the day, but not recommended at night if you don't know the area.
Local tips for understanding the art of Castilla
It's not just about looking. It's about understanding the context. Here are some tips from the residents themselves:
- Talk to people: The murals have stories that are not written down. If you see someone sweeping the entrance to their house, ask them. They will tell you who painted what and why. The neighbors are the best guides.
- Bring a marker or spray paint: On some murals, like the Pared de las mariposas, there are blank spaces where you can leave your message. It is not vandalism; it is part of the neighborhood's tradition. Ask first, but if you see an unpainted spot, it is likely meant for that.
- Don't take photos without permission: Some murals have images of real people who still live in the neighborhood. If you are going to take a photo of a portrait, ask the neighbors if it's okay. It's a matter of respect.
- Visit the community workshops: On Saturday mornings, the Semillas de la Memoria collective organizes graffiti workshops for young people. You can participate if you arrive early. Wear clothes you can get dirty. The workshop is free, but you can leave a voluntary donation (5,000-10,000 COP).
- Beware of the sun: Castilla is on a hillside, the sun is strong. Bring water, sunscreen, and a hat. The walks can last 2 or 3 hours.
Profile of three community artists
Ana María "La Loba" (Colectivo Semillas de la Memoria)
Ana María is 34 years old and started painting at 15, when her brother disappeared. "I didn't know how to channel the rage, so a friend lent me a spray can and I painted his name on the wall of my house." Today she is the leader of the collective and uses a technique that mixes stencil with acrylic. Her murals always feature a female figure as the protagonist. "The woman is the one who sustains memory," she says. Her works are on calle 97 with carrera 63 and on calle 100 with carrera 66. Her main message: "Not forgetting is resisting."
Carlos "El Muro" (Colectivo Raíces)
Carlos is 52 years old and is a self-taught muralist. He learned by watching graffiti artists from the 80s in downtown Medellín. His specialty is large-format murals, using acrylic and roller techniques. "I don't use spray paint, because I want the color to be solid, like memory," he explains. His most famous work is "El grito de la tierra", but he also has a mural on the facade of the Castilla church (carrera 64 con calle 97) that shows the Virgin with a broken rifle. "Religion can also be used for peace," he says. He has lived in the neighborhood since he was born.
Mariana "La Tejedora" (Mujeres Tejedoras de Memoria)
Mariana is 68 years old and is not a professional painter. She learned to make stencils with her grandchildren. "They taught me how to cut out the figures, I only know how to paste and paint," she says with a laugh. Her collective is made up of 12 women, all mothers of disappeared persons. They not only paint butterflies: they also organize marches and memory workshops. "Each butterfly we paint is a child who came home, even if only in memory," she explains. Her technique is simple: cardboard stencil and black spray paint. The result is powerful.
Neighbors' testimonies: the symbolic impact
The artists are not the only ones with a voice. The neighbors live with these murals every day. Here are some testimonies collected in April 2026:
Doña Rosa, 72 years old, has lived on calle 98 since 1985: "When they painted the Pared de las mariposas, I cried for three days. My son Juan is there, in one of those butterflies. Before, when I passed by the corner, I felt he was lost forever. Now, when I see the butterfly, I know he is here, with me. That's what art does: bring back those who left."
Jorge, 28 years old, owner of a store on carrera 64: "I grew up watching them paint these murals. At first, people complained because they said it was laziness. But later, when they started telling stories, everything changed. Now young people come to take photos, to ask questions. The neighborhood became an open-air museum. And the best part is that no one imposed it on us: we did it ourselves."
Lucía, 19 years old, student and participant in the graffiti workshop: "Before, my mom wouldn't let me go out because she said it was dangerous. But when I started going to the Semillas de la Memoria workshops, she saw it was different. Now, my mural is on calle 99. It's the face of a girl with a flower on her head. It represents my sister, who died of cancer. For me, painting is healing."
Fun fact: the mural that changed at night
There is a mural on calle 100 with carrera 67 that has a detail few notice. During the day, it shows a bird flying over a green field. But if you see it at night, by the light of the moon, the bird becomes a warrior with a spear. It was painted by Carlos "El Muro" using phosphorescent paint mixed with acrylic. "I wanted the message to change depending on the time," he says. "By day, it is hope. By night, it is struggle."
Frequently asked questions
Is it safe to walk through Castilla to see the murals?
Yes, it is safe during the day. The neighborhood is residential and there is a lot of people moving around. However, avoid lonely streets after 7pm. If you go in a group, it's better. The neighbors are friendly and can show you the way. Don't leave valuables in sight and keep your cell phone stored while you walk.
Can I buy a mural or commission one?
It is not common, but you can contact the collectives through their social media (search for "Semillas de la Memoria Castilla" on Instagram). They do commissioned murals, but only if the message is aligned with memory and resistance. Prices vary, but a 2x2 meter mural can cost between 500,000 and 1,000,000 COP, depending on the technique and the artist.
Are there guided tours of the murals?
There are no official tours, but the Semillas de la Memoria collective organizes free walks on the first Saturday of each month. They leave at 9am from the corner of calle 98 with carrera 64. They last about 2 hours and end with a stencil workshop. Bring water and comfortable shoes. You don't need to book, just arrive on time.
Are the murals maintained or do they fade over time?
Some are maintained thanks to the care of the neighbors. The Pared de las mariposas, for example, is repainted every year. Others have been erased by city hall works or by the weather. But the collectives fight to ensure they don't disappear. If you see a mural in poor condition, you can report it to the neighbors or the collective. Sometimes, they restore it themselves.
In the end, Castilla is not just a neighborhood with graffiti. It is a testament that memory is not erased with paint. Every spray can, every brush, every hand stained with color is saying: "We were here, we resisted, and we continue." If you go, don't just look at the walls. Listen to what they have to say. And if you find a hidden message, post it with the hashtag #CastillaGraffiti. Maybe others have seen it too.
Historical or contextual introduction
The Castilla neighborhood in Medellín is an example of how urban art can serve as a vehicle for memory and resistance. This sector, which has faced a past of violence and marginalization, has found in graffiti a form of expression that narrates the stories of its inhabitants. Since the 1990s, the walls of Castilla have witnessed the social transformation that comuna 5 has experienced, becoming a canvas where the struggles, dreams, and hopes of a community that refuses to be silenced are depicted.
The graffiti in Castilla not only beautify the environment but are also a form of reclaiming public space. Through images and messages, urban artists tell the story of a neighborhood that has been stigmatized, challenging stereotypes and proposing a new narrative. This form of art has managed to connect the community, fostering a sense of belonging and pride among the residents.
Furthermore, the influence of urban art in Castilla has attracted the attention of tourists and art enthusiasts, turning the neighborhood into a meeting point for those seeking to understand the recent history of Medellín through its murals. It is important to know the context behind each work, as many of these graffiti are the result of collaborative processes that include local artists and community members.