Introduction: the bunker nobody visits (and you should)
If you walk along the foothills of the cerro de La Popa, right where the Pie de la Popa neighborhood crumples against the hillside, there is a rusty metal door that almost nobody notices. Behind that door, buried under earth and undergrowth, lies one of Cartagena's best-kept secrets: a World War II military bunker. No, it's not a myth. It exists. And the oldest residents of the neighborhood call it "the refuge." In July 2026, that bunker is still there, intact, waiting for someone to restore its memory.
Pie de la Popa does not appear in tourist guides. It has no castle or seaside promenade. But it has something more valuable: a story that the Cartageneros have kept in silence. This article is for you, who are already tired of the crowded historic center and want to feel the real city. Here I tell you how to get there, what to do, and why this bunker is the weirdest and most authentic plan you can do in Cartagena.
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History of the neighborhood: from military fort to memory refuge
Pie de la Popa was born as a popular settlement in the mid-20th century, when families displaced by violence in the Colombian Caribbean arrived in Cartagena and climbed up the hill. But before the wattle-and-daub houses and steep alleys existed, the place already had a strategic role. During World War II, the Colombian government, aligned with the Allies, built a network of bunkers on the heights of Cartagena to protect the bay from possible attacks by German submarines. One of those bunkers ended up right where Pie de la Popa is today.
The bunker is not a natural cave. It is a reinforced concrete structure, with walls almost a meter thick, designed to withstand bombings. It has two levels, gun slits for rifles, and an escape tunnel that, according to the neighbors, connected to the top of the hill. After the war, the army abandoned it. For decades, it served as a garbage dump, a gang hideout, and finally, as an urban legend. But since 2019, a group of older neighbors, led by doña Carmen Martínez (80 years old, resident since 1965), began cleaning it and telling its story.
Today, the bunker is an unofficial monument. There is no plaque, no state guide, no entry on Google Maps. But it exists. And the neighbors guard it like a treasure.
Interview with doña Carmen: the living memory of the bunker
One afternoon in June, I sat down with doña Carmen at the D'Luna store, on Calle de la Cruz. While serving black coffees in plastic cups, she told me:
—"Son, when I arrived here, the bunker was a dump. The kids would go in to smoke marijuana. But my father, who worked at the Naval Base, told me: 'That's not just any hole, that's a fortress.' One day, with a flashlight, I went in. I saw the gun slits, I saw the rooms. I knew I had to take care of it."
Doña Carmen and five other neighbors formed the Pie de la Popa Neighborhood Association. Since then, they organize cleaning sessions every month. They have recovered two of the four rooms of the bunker. On the walls you can still see soldiers' inscriptions: dates, names, drawings of women. "This is heritage, but the District does nothing," she says, shaking her head.
What to do in Pie de la Popa (beyond the bunker)
The bunker is the jewel, but the entire neighborhood is an experience. Here is what you cannot miss:
- Visit the bunker with the neighbors: Do not try to enter alone. The door is usually padlocked. The Neighborhood Association opens the bunker on Sundays at 10 a.m. Meeting point: D'Luna store, Calle de la Cruz. Entry is free, but voluntary donations are accepted (suggested: 5,000 COP).
- Walk along Calle de la Cruz: It is the main street of the neighborhood, steep and full of colorful houses. You will find murals made by local youth and a spectacular view of the bay from the upper part.
- Climb the cerro de La Popa: From Pie de la Popa you can take a pedestrian trail that goes up to the Convento de la Popa. It takes about 20 minutes on foot. Bring water and comfortable shoes. The climb is tough but the view from the cross is the best in Cartagena.
- Get to know the D'Luna store: More than a store, it is the cultural center of the neighborhood. Doña Carmen sells typical sweets (cocadas, enyucados, alegrías) and has a mural with old photos of the bunker. Ask her about the history of the neighborhood and she will tell you for hours.
Where to eat or drink in Pie de la Popa
Do not expect gourmet restaurants. Here you eat grandmother's cooking, at street stalls and family kitchens. These are the must-stop places:
- Comedor Doña Lola (Calle de la Cruz # 12-30): Open Monday to Saturday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. The daily menu costs 12,000 COP and includes soup, seco (rice, meat, patacón, salad), and natural juice. The fried fish on Fridays is legendary.
- Doña Matilde's arepa stand (corner of Calle de la Cruz with Carrera 5): Arepas de huevo, arepas with costeño cheese, and butifarras. Prices: 3,000 to 5,000 COP. Open from 6 to 10 a.m. and from 5 to 9 p.m.
- D'Luna Store (Calle de la Cruz # 10-50): Besides being the meeting point, they sell cold beer (Aguila, Club Colombia) for 3,000 COP and natural fruit drinks. Ideal for hydrating after the climb.
Important: these prices are a reference from July 2026. They may vary, so bring cash (they do not accept cards).
How to get there and transportation
Pie de la Popa is 15 minutes by bus from the historic center. There is no direct Transcaribe, but the blue bus routes (that say "La Popa" or "Pie de la Popa") drop you off at the entrance of the neighborhood. You can also take a taxi from Bocagrande for about 15,000 COP (negotiate before getting in).
If you come by private car, go up Calle de la Cruz. The neighborhood is safe during the day, but avoid leaving valuables in sight. Parking is on the street, with no formal parking lots.
For the adventurous: from the historic center, you can walk to the foot of the hill (about 30 minutes) and then climb the stairs of Calle de la Cruz. It is not recommended at night.
Local tips (from a Cartagenero to you)
- Arrive early: The bunker is visited on Sundays at 10 a.m. If you arrive after 11, the sun is harsh and the neighbors will have already closed. There are no public restrooms, so go to the bathroom before leaving.
- Bring a flashlight: The bunker has no electricity. Cell phone flashlights work, but a powerful flashlight will let you see the inscriptions on the walls better.
- Talk to the neighbors: Do not limit yourself to the bunker. Ask about don Pedro, the shoemaker on Calle de la Cruz, who knows every tunnel in the neighborhood. Or about señora Ana, who makes coconut sweets at home and sells them at her door.
- Respect the space: The bunker is not an amusement park. Do not scratch the walls, do not leave trash. The neighbors take care of it with love. If you can, leave a donation (5,000 COP is a nice gesture).
- Combine it with the Convento de la Popa: After the bunker, go up to the convent. Entry costs 15,000 COP. The view of the city from up there is the postcard you won't find in tourist guides.
Frequently asked questions
Is the bunker safe to visit?
Yes, but with conditions. The bunker was cleaned and reinforced by the neighbors. The walls are solid, but there are areas with debris. There are no railings or signage. It is recommended to wear closed-toe shoes and not bring small children. The Neighborhood Association accompanies visits and guides you through the safe areas.
Can I visit the bunker on weekdays?
There are no fixed hours on weekdays. The door is padlocked. If you want to go on a day other than Sunday, contact the D'Luna store (ask for doña Carmen) and coordinate a visit. They usually open if you notify them a day in advance.
Is there a cost to enter the bunker?
Entry is free. The Neighborhood Association accepts voluntary donations to keep the place clean and buy restoration materials. No credit cards, only cash. Bring small bills (2,000, 5,000 COP).
How close is the bunker to the Convento de la Popa?
It is about 500 meters in a straight line, but the path is steep. From the bunker, you walk 10 minutes to the base of the convent and then climb 15 more minutes up the stairs. It is a moderate hike. Bring water and sunscreen.
Is the bunker suitable for people with reduced mobility?
# Access to the bunker has stone steps and the interior is narrow. There are no ramps or elevators. There is also no adapted public transport in the neighborhood. It is recommended only for people in good physical condition.