Introduction: The Hearth That Never Goes Out
On the slopes of the La Popa hill, where the smell of firewood competes with the Caribbean breeze, there is a kitchen that works just as it did a hundred years ago. There is no microwave or electric stove. Only a clay burner, charcoal, and the hands of Mrs. Carmen, who at 73 years old still gets up at 4 in the morning to light the fire. If you have eaten coconut rice in Cartagena, you probably tried a commercial version, sweetened and served in a restaurant in the walled city. But what is cooked in Pie de la Popa is something else. It is the original recipe, the one that is not negotiated, the one that is inherited in secret.
This article is not just another travel guide. It is an invitation to get into a real kitchen, to get your hands dirty with achiote, and to understand why the grandmothers of this neighborhood refuse to trade their hearth for an induction stove.
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What to Do: The Hearth Experience in Pie de la Popa
Pie de la Popa is not a postcard neighborhood. You won't find cobblestone streets or colonial balconies. What you will find are colorful houses, neighbors greeting each other from door to door, and on Calle de la Amargura, the epicenter of traditional cooking. You don't come here to look; you come here to do.
Visit Mrs. Carmen's Kitchen
Mrs. Carmen lives in a house with a green facade, with a backyard where she has her hearth. She does not receive tourists in bulk. She attends by appointment only, small groups, maximum six people. She herself says: "The hearth is not a show, it is a commitment." For about three hours, you will learn to peel coconut, grate it, extract the milk, and cook it with rice. You will also prepare dried fish, the kind that is dehydrated in the sun and is the key to the coastal flavor.
Address: Calle de la Amargura # 18-24, Pie de la Popa. Hours: Saturdays from 8:00 a.m. to 11:30 a.m. Cost: $45,000 COP per person (includes ingredients and tasting). It is recommended to check availability before going.
Tour of the Neighborhood's Wood-Fired Kitchens
Besides Mrs. Carmen, there are three other families that keep active hearths in Pie de la Popa. Most do not advertise their services, but you can ask at the corner store (Callejón del Mamey) or contact the neighborhood's Community Action Board. Some of these kitchens offer samples of traditional sweets like caballito (coconut and panela) or enyucado.
Hearth Cooking Workshop
On Saturdays at 8 a.m., Mrs. Carmen opens her workshop. The capacity is a maximum of six people, so you need to book in advance. You will learn to make coconut rice and dried fish, but also how to manage the fire: when to stoke it, when to let it die, how to know that the coconut has released all its fat. To register, call 345-6789. Bring your own apron.
Where to Eat or Drink: Grandma's Flavors vs. Commercial Versions
In the walled city, coconut rice is served in restaurants like La Cevichería or El Boliche, at prices around $35,000 COP per plate. But there they use canned coconut milk, refined sugar, and pre-cooked rice. In Pie de la Popa, the process is different.
The Secret Recipe for Coconut Rice and Dried Fish
Mrs. Carmen does not use exact measurements. "It's a matter of eye and hand," she says. But this is what she reveals: first, the fresh coconut is grated, squeezed with warm water to extract the first milk (the thick one). Then that milk is boiled with salt and a piece of panela until it releases its oil. The rice is added, stirred once, and covered with bijao leaves. The dried fish (usually bocachico or mojarra) is shredded and fried separately. Finally, everything is mixed and left to rest covered with a clean cloth. The result is a loose, oily rice with a smoky flavor that no modern stove can replicate.
Fun fact: In Pie de la Popa, coconut rice is not eaten as a main dish, but as an accompaniment to fried fish or sancocho. It is never served alone.
Comparison with Commercial Versions
- Price at La Cevichería (Historic Center): $38,000 COP for a plate of coconut rice with shrimp. They use packaged coconut milk.
- Price at Mrs. Carmen's kitchen: $45,000 COP for the complete workshop (includes tasting of coconut rice, dried fish, and a tamarind drink). The coconut is fresh, hand-grated.
- Flavor: The commercial version is sweeter and creamier. The hearth version is drier, saltier, with a smoky undertone reminiscent of charcoal.
Where Else to Eat in Pie de la Popa
If you can't get a spot in the workshop, you can try Mrs. Marta's kitchen, at Calle de la Amargura # 20-10. She sells arepas de huevo with hogao (from 6 a.m. to 10 a.m., $4,000 COP each). There is also the fonda El Fogón de la Tía, at Carrera 19 with Calle 38, where they serve sancocho de guandú with salted meat on Sundays at noon. Reference prices from July 2026.
How to Get There and Transportation
Pie de la Popa is 15 minutes by taxi from the Historic Center, and 10 minutes from the Getsemaní neighborhood. There are several options:
- Taxi: From Plaza de la Aduana, a taxi costs between $8,000 and $12,000 COP. Ask to be dropped off at Calle de la Amargura, in front of the Donde Lucho store.
- Bus: Take the "Popa - La María" route from Avenida Santander (near the Santa Clara hotel). The fare is $2,500 COP. Get off at the "Calle de la Amargura" stop.
- On foot: If coming from the Center, you can walk up Carrera 17 to the intersection with Calle 38. It is about a 25-minute moderate uphill walk. Not recommended under the midday sun.
The neighborhood does not have a guarded parking lot, so if you come by private car, look for space on Calle de la Amargura or Carrera 19. Do not leave valuables in sight.
Local Tips
- Arrive early. Mrs. Carmen starts the workshop at 8 a.m. sharp. If you arrive after 8:30, the fire will already be lit and you will miss the part about preparing the charcoal.
- Wear light clothing and closed-toe shoes. The wood-fired kitchen heats up the environment. Sandals can be dangerous if embers fall.
- Do not ask for changes to the recipe. Mrs. Carmen does not accept substitutions. "If you want light coconut rice, go to a gym," she says. Here you eat as it has always been eaten.
- Bring cash. There are no card machines or transfers in the neighborhood. Prices are in Colombian pesos.
- Ask about the neighborhood's history. Mrs. Carmen says that Pie de la Popa was named that way because the slaves who climbed the hill carrying water would stop to rest "at the foot of the popa" (the slope of the hill). Wood-fired cooking was born from the need to use the charcoal left over from the blacksmiths.
- Respect the silence of the hearth. It is not a show. Cooking is an intimate act. Speak softly, observe, learn.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I go to Mrs. Carmen's workshop without a reservation?
# The capacity is a maximum of six people and it always fills up. You must call 345-6789 at least two days in advance. If there is no space, they can give you an alternative date.
Is the coconut rice prepared in Pie de la Popa suitable for vegetarians?
The traditional recipe includes dried fish. However, Mrs. Carmen can prepare a version with just rice and coconut if you request it in advance. Do not use vegetable oil; she insists that the fat from the coconut is enough.
How long does the workshop last and what does it include?
It lasts approximately three hours (from 8 to 11:30 a.m.). It includes the preparation of coconut rice and dried fish, a homemade tamarind drink, and a tasting of everything cooked. At the end, you take a portion to go. It does not include transportation or an apron (you must bring your own).