San Antonio wasn't always bohemian: the neighborhood built by workers
When you walk today through the cobblestone streets of San Antonio, among restaurants lit by candles and art galleries, it's hard to imagine that over a hundred years ago this was a neighborhood of brick and sweat. The poets and painters didn't live here; the bricklayers, shoemakers, and washerwomen who built Cali with their hands did. The founding of the neighborhood, at the end of the 19th century, was not an elite urban planning project. It was a popular settlement that grew around the hill, taking advantage of the view and the breeze, but above all, the proximity to the downtown area where they worked.
What makes San Antonio special is not just its church or its viewpoints. It's the houses. Those wattle and daub walls and clay tile roofs that have seen generations pass by. In May 2026, many are still standing, although some are at risk of disappearing. This article is not just any tourist guide: it's an invitation to get to know three houses that hold the memory of the neighborhood's founding. Three addresses that, if you know how to read them, tell you a story that isn't in the brochures.
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What to do: the route of the three founding houses
This walk doesn't require a map or an app. Just comfortable shoes, water, and a desire to look with different eyes. The route starts in the lower part of the neighborhood and climbs slowly, just as life climbed in those years. Each house has its own story, and together they form a narrative that explains why San Antonio is what it is.
House 1: The mansion of the founding family (Calle 3 # 10-40)
On the corner of Calle 3 and Carrera 10, a two-story mansion with a wooden balcony stands firm. It is one of the oldest buildings in the neighborhood, dated approximately to 1895. The family of Don José María Londoño, one of the first lot owners who bought land on the hill when there were no streets yet, lived there. The mansion was the center of community life: masses were held in its courtyard when the church wasn't finished yet, and neighbors gathered in its living room to organize construction work parties.
The key anecdote: oral records say that Don José María lent his house so the bricklayers could store their tools. One night in 1908, a fire in a neighboring house threatened to burn down half the block. From the balcony of this mansion, neighbors organized a bucket brigade that saved several houses. Today, the mansion serves as the headquarters of a cultural foundation, and its façade retains the original colors: lime white and indigo blue. It can be visited on Saturday mornings when it opens to the public for temporary exhibitions.
House 2: The first store and pharmacy (Carrera 11 # 2-50)
Half a block from the church, on Carrera 11, a corner with a carved wooden door houses what was the neighborhood's first store, opened in 1910 by the Giraldo family. It wasn't just a store: it was a pharmacy, a tobacco shop, a gossip hub, and even an improvised clinic. The owner, Don Manuel Giraldo, was known as "the poor people's doctor" because he sold home remedies and gave health advice without charging a cent.
The meeting point: gatherings were held here after the workday. Workers came to buy panela, candles, and soap, but stayed for hours chatting. In 1925, when the neighborhood's first telephone arrived, it was installed in this store. Neighbors paid a few cents to make calls, and Don Manuel wrote down messages in a notebook that his grandchildren still keep. Today, the place is a specialty coffee shop, but the current owners maintain the essence: old photos hang on the walls and the original wooden counter is still in place. I recommend ordering a coffee and asking about the history of the place; the local baristas know the stories by heart.
House 3: The home of the first mailman (Calle 2 # 11-20)
On a narrow street that goes down towards the river, a single-story house with a worn green door goes unnoticed by most. But it was the home of Juan de Dios Martínez, the neighborhood's first official mailman, appointed in 1918. Before formal addresses existed, Juan de Dios knew each house by the name of its inhabitants. He delivered letters on foot, going up and down the hill twice a day, and knew everyone's life story.
The forgotten character: Juan de Dios didn't just deliver mail. He was also a street musician on Sundays, when he would sit in the church atrium to play the tiple and sing couplets. One of his songs, "La carta perdida" (The Lost Letter), became popular among the neighbors and was collected years later by a folklorist. The house, which is now uninhabited and somewhat deteriorated, still retains the original door frame and a nearly faded plaque that says "Casa del Cartero" (Mailman's House). The neighbors are fighting for it to be declared a heritage site, but the bureaucratic process is slow. If you pass by, knock on the door: sometimes an elderly lady who was a neighbor of Juan de Dios comes out and tells stories that aren't in any book.
Where to eat or drink near the route
After the walk, your body will need a break. San Antonio is full of options, but I recommend places that respect the neighborhood's tradition.
- La Casa de la Abuela (Calle 2 # 10-30): a family restaurant that has been serving chicken sancocho on Saturdays for 30 years. Dishes from $22,000 COP. Open Thursday to Sunday, 11am-8pm.
- El Solar de la 11 (Carrera 11 # 2-60): a terrace in an old house where they prepare coconut lemonade and pipián empanadas. Affordable prices, from $8,000 COP. Open daily, 10am-10pm.
- Tienda de la Esquina (Carrera 11 # 2-50): the same place that was the first store, now converted into a coffee shop. A latte costs $5,000 COP. Ideal for resting and looking at the old photos.
How to get there and transportation
San Antonio is in west-central Cali, a 15-minute walk from Plaza de Cayzedo. If you come by public transport:
- MIO: Take the San Antonio station (line T1) or the Sucre station (line T2). From either, walk 10 minutes uphill.
- Taxi or Uber: From downtown, it costs between $7,000 and $10,000 COP. Ask to be dropped off at the Iglesia de San Antonio, which is the landmark.
- On foot: If coming from downtown, go up Calle 5 to Carrera 10 and then turn right. The climb is steep but short.
For the route of the three houses, I recommend starting in the lower part (Calle 3 with Carrera 10) and going up. The total route is approximately 1 kilometer, with several slopes. Bring water and sunscreen, especially if you go in the afternoon.
Local tips
- The best time for the walk: Saturday morning, between 9am and 12pm. The streets are quiet, the light is soft for photos, and House 1 (the mansion) is open to the public.
- Don't limit yourself to the facades: If you see an open door, peek in respectfully. Many neighbors are proud of their houses and will tell you stories if you ask kindly.
- Bring cash: Some small stores and the coffee shop at House 2 don't accept cards. There is an ATM on Carrera 10 with Calle 2, but it sometimes doesn't work.
- Fun fact: House 3 (the mailman's) has an orange tree in the yard that, according to the neighbors, was planted by Juan de Dios in 1920. The oranges are sour, but the shade is still the best refuge from the sun.
- Language: Locals speak clear, slow Spanish. If you are a foreigner, don't be afraid to ask; people are friendly and many young people speak basic English.
Reflection: how these houses survive today
The three houses we visited represent different states of conservation and different uses. The mansion of the Londoño family (House 1) is now a cultural space, with regular maintenance and scheduled visits. Don Manuel's store (House 2) adapted to modern commerce without losing its essence, although the current owners had to make structural reinforcements to meet safety regulations. The mailman's house (House 3) is the most fragile: with no permanent resident and dampness on the walls, its future depends on the Mayor's Office declaring it a heritage site before it's too late.
San Antonio has changed. The working-class neighborhood is now one of the most sought-after in Cali, with housing prices that have risen 40% in the last five years. This puts pressure on the old houses: many are sold to be converted into restaurants or tourist apartments. But there is also a growing awareness among new and old residents that the neighborhood's memory is worth more than the brick. The route of the three houses is an act of resistance: a way to remember that San Antonio didn't start with art galleries, but with families who built dreams out of wattle and daub.
Invitation to walk the route
If you've made it this far, you've already done half the journey. The other 50% is up to your feet. Next Saturday at 9am, join the free guided tour 'San Antonio de las casas'. The meeting point is on the corner of Calle 3 and Carrera 10, in front of the Londoño family mansion. You don't need to reserve: just show up with curiosity and a willingness to listen. The guides are neighbors who have gathered these stories by word of mouth. At the end of the tour, there will be coffee and yuca bread at the Tienda de la Esquina. We look forward to seeing you.
Frequently asked questions
Are the houses open to the public all the time?
Not all of them. House 1 (the Londoño family mansion) is open on Saturdays from 9am to 1pm for exhibitions and guided tours. House 2 (the store and pharmacy) is a coffee shop with business hours from Tuesday to Sunday, 10am-9pm. House 3 (the mailman's) is a private residence and can only be seen from the outside, unless you happen to run into the lady who sometimes opens the door. It is recommended to check hours before visiting.
Is there any cost to do the route on my own?
Walking the streets of San Antonio is free. You would only pay if you decide to buy something at the House 2 coffee shop or if you join the guided tour 'San Antonio de las casas', which is free but accepts voluntary donations at the end.
How safe is the neighborhood for tourists?
San Antonio is one of the safest neighborhoods in Cali to walk around during the day. The streets are frequented by locals and tourists, and there is a tourist police presence on weekends. As anywhere, it is recommended not to display valuables and to be aware on deserted streets after 8pm. The route of the three houses is completely safe during daylight hours.
Historical or contextual introduction
San Antonio is not only a bohemian and vibrant neighborhood; it is also a place full of history that reflects the transformation of Cali over the years. Founded in the 16th century, this neighborhood has witnessed the cultural and architectural evolution of the city. The three emblematic houses that stand out in the founding of San Antonio are true gems that tell the story of its beginnings.
One of the most interesting features of San Antonio is its mix of architectural styles, ranging from the colonial era to modern influences. The cobblestone streets and colorful houses create a unique atmosphere that attracts both locals and visitors. Exploring this neighborhood is a journey through time, where every corner has a story to tell.
In addition to its rich history, San Antonio is a meeting point for artists and creatives. The art galleries and charming cafes make it an ideal place to enjoy the local culture. Don't forget to visit the squares and parks, which are perfect for resting and observing the daily life of the people of Cali.
For those seeking a deeper experience, here are some insider tips on how to make the most of San Antonio:
Casa de la Cultura
Insider Tip: This is a place that hosts exhibitions by local artists and art workshops. Check the schedule and attend an activity; it's an excellent way to connect with Cali's artistic community.
Teatro Jorge Eliécer Gaitán
Insider Tip: Although it's not in San Antonio, it's very close and is fundamental to Cali's cultural life. Check its schedule to enjoy plays and concerts in a cozy atmosphere full of history.