The Silence Begins Where the Boats End
Most people who arrive in Taganga stay in the bay. They drink beer at the restaurants on the shore, hop on a boat to Playa Grande or Playa Blanca, and leave at sunset. I don't blame them: the water is calm, the town smells of fried fish, and the sun hits just right. But if you're reading this, you're probably not that kind of person. You came here because the noise of the boats and the speakers is starting to bother you. Because you felt that Taganga has something more, something you can't see from a life jacket.
And yes, it does. To the east of the town, behind the colorful houses, there is a network of trails that climb the hill and descend to coves where the only sound is the sea crashing against the rocks. There are no coconut vendors. There is no music. There is no wifi. Just earth, stones, lizards, and a wind that smells of sage. This is not a guide for tourists who want pretty Instagram photos. This is a guide for those who want to walk in silence, sweat it out, and find an empty bay at the end of the trail. If that's you, welcome. Get your water ready, tie your sneakers, and let's go.
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Starting Point: Calle 10
The most interesting trail in Taganga has no sign. There is no ticket booth or sign saying "entrance to the viewpoint." It starts on Calle 10, on the eastern side of town, right where the pavement turns to dirt. If you walk from the bay, you cross the main park (the one with the church) and continue straight until the houses become scarcer and the noise of the motorcycles fades away. There, between a shop selling water in bags and a crooked lamppost, the climb begins.
It's a narrow path that snakes through dry bushes and cacti. The first 200 meters are deceptive: the slope is gentle, the ground is firm. But don't be fooled. Soon the trail steepens and loose stones start to play tricks on you. If you come in May 2026, like now, the sun is strong from 9 am, so get up early. Leaving at 6:30 is ideal: the light is golden, the air is still fresh, and the only living creatures you'll cross paths with are skinny dogs and the occasional goat.
Bring at least two liters of water per person. There are no shops on the route. And please, wear closed-toe shoes with good grip. Flip-flops are the enemy of this trail. I've seen more than one tourist coming down in socks, with broken sandals in hand, cursing their bad decision.
Climb to the Cruz del Tagangero: History of the Viewpoint
After 45 minutes of hiking, the trail opens up to a rocky plateau. There stands the Cruz del Tagangero. It's not a giant cross nor does it have colored lights. It's a metal and concrete structure, painted white, that has been there since the 1980s. It was placed by a local fisherman who promised to put it up if his son returned safely from a storm at sea. The son returned, the cross stayed, and now it's the most famous point on the route.
From here, the view is breathtaking. Below is all of Taganga: the crescent-shaped bay, the colorful boats bobbing, the turquoise blue of the Caribbean Sea. In the distance, if the day is clear, you can make out the profile of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. It's a place to sit, drink water, and not talk. The wind whistles through the branches of the trupillo trees, and if you're lucky, you'll see an osprey fly by.
Here's a curious fact that few know: the cross wasn't always alone. Until a few years ago, there was a small grotto with a virgin carved in stone, but a landslide buried it in 2018. Locals say you can still see a piece of the base if you dig a little on the northern slope. I haven't confirmed it, but if you like mystery, you can look.
Most people turn back here. They take the photo, sit for ten minutes, and go down. But the real treasure lies ahead.
The Trail to Playa del Medio: Why Almost No One Goes
From the Cruz del Tagangero, the main trail splits. The path to the right goes back down to the town. The one to the left, the narrow one, the one that seems to disappear into the bushes, is the one that leads to Playa del Medio. And that's the trick: most people don't take it because it looks like it leads nowhere. The branches cover it, the ground becomes more uneven, and after 100 meters the view of the sea disappears. It's easy to think you made a mistake, that this isn't the way. But it is.
This section is the loneliest of the entire route. For about 40 minutes you walk through dry vegetation and ravines, without seeing anyone. The only sound is the crunch of your steps and, occasionally, the distant cry of a howler monkey. It's not a dangerous trail, but it is demanding. There are parts where you have to hold onto branches to keep from slipping. Others where the path becomes so narrow that only one person can fit. If you go as a couple, go single file and warn the other if there's a loose stone.
Why does almost no one go? Because there are no signs, because people prefer the comfort of a boat, because tour guides don't include it in their packages. But above all, because it requires patience. It's not a hike for those in a hurry. It's for those who understand that the best destination isn't always on Google Maps.
Encounter with a Local Who Cares for the Path
Halfway there, when the sun is really starting to heat up, you'll meet a man. His name is Don Marcos, he's about 70 years old, he lives in a little wooden house at the edge of the trail, and he is, unofficially, the guardian of this route. He doesn't charge an entrance fee, he doesn't sell anything. He just sits in a plastic chair, with a machete by his side, and greets everyone who passes by.
Don Marcos moved up here to live after an avalanche swept away his house in town in 1995. Since then, he has dedicated himself to cleaning the trail. He cuts branches, fills holes, scares away snakes. If you stop to talk to him, he'll tell you stories of when Taganga was just a fishing hamlet, without hotels or foreigners. He'll tell you that turtles used to come to lay their eggs on Playa del Medio, and that he himself collected the eggs to sell at the market in Santa Marta. Now not as many come, but he still waits for them.
If you bring extra water, offer him some. He never accepts money, but a little water or fruit makes his day. And if you see trash on the trail, pick it up. Don Marcos does it every day, but it shouldn't be his responsibility. This is one of those places where responsible tourism isn't a trend, it's a necessity.
Swim in an Empty Cove
After an hour and a half of hiking from the cross, the trail begins to descend. The smell of salt becomes more intense, the wind more humid, and suddenly, between the rocks, you see the sea. It's not a big beach. It's more of a cove: about 30 meters of grayish sand, surrounded by cliffs covered in vegetation. There is no natural shade, so if you arrive between 10 am and 2 pm, the sun beats down mercilessly. But the water is so clear you can see the bottom at a depth of five meters.
This is Playa del Medio. The reason the hike is worth it. No boats, no vendors, no one. In all the times I've gone, I've run into other people only twice. It's a place to swim in silence, to float on your back and listen to your breathing. The water is warm, with gentle currents, and if you move a little away from the shore, you can see schools of small fish moving like a single silver creature.
There are no services. No bathrooms, no restaurants, no umbrella rental stand. Bring your own food, your own shade (a portable umbrella or a big hat), and above all, take all your trash back with you. Don't leave a single cigarette butt or fruit peel. This place stays clean because almost no one visits it. Help us keep it that way.
The swim can last as long as you want. An hour, two, three. Time is measured differently here. When the sun starts to go down, you'll have to head back. The return is uphill and, although it's shorter (about 50 minutes to the cross), the fatigue is felt. But every step is worth it.
Return at Sunset and Recommendations for Water and Footwear
If you timed it right, the return will catch you at the Cruz del Tagangero just as the sun begins to set. The sunset from there is a spectacle you won't forget: the sky turns orange and pink, the shadows of the hills stretch over the sea, and the town begins to turn on its first lights. It's the perfect moment to sit down, take the last sip of water, and be grateful for the day.
The descent to the town is quick: about 20 minutes if you go carefully. The loose stones can play a nasty trick on you if you're in a hurry. Use trekking poles if you have knee problems, or just go down slowly, in a zigzag. When you reach Calle 10, the noise of the motorcycles and music will hit you like a wave. But you know you've already stored your dose of silence.
- Footwear: Trail running shoes or light boots. No Converse, no sandals. The ground is uneven and there are sharp stones.
- Water: At least two liters per person. If it's very hot, three. There are no water sources on the route.
- Sun protection: Broad-spectrum sunscreen, cap or hat, and sunglasses. The radiation on the hill is strong even on cloudy days.
- Food: Fruits, nuts, sandwiches. Nothing that generates a lot of trash. Bring a bag for your waste.
- Insect repellent: There are mosquitoes, especially in the lower part near the beach. Use it before descending to the cove.
- Offline map: Download the map of the area on Google Maps or Maps.me before you leave. Cell signal is spotty.
Local Tips
Here are some tips that only a local can give you, and that make the difference between a good hike and an unforgettable one:
- Go on weekdays: On weekends, some locals from Taganga go up to the cross for picnics and bring speakers. If you're looking for silence, Tuesday or Wednesday are the best days.
- Don't go after heavy rains: The trail becomes slippery and there is a risk of small landslides. Check the weather for the two previous days.
- Bring an extra bag for trash: As Don Marcos said: "He who comes and leaves nothing, takes everything." Pick up any plastic you find on the trail. It's a small gesture that keeps this place alive.
- If you want to swim naked: At Playa del Medio, there's no one to see you. But be discreet and respectful if other people arrive. It's not an official nude beach, just a place where solitude allows it.
- Buy water in town before going up: At the shop on Calle 10, they sell bags of water for 1,000 COP. They are easier to carry than bottles and generate less waste if you bring them back.
- Talk to Don Marcos: If you see him at his house, say hello. Ask him how the trail is, if he's seen snakes, or if there are any changes. He knows the mountain better than any GPS.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the trail to Playa del Medio dangerous?
It's not dangerous if you go prepared and with caution. Most of the path is stable, but there are sections with loose stones and steep slopes. I don't recommend it for people with mobility issues, small children, or if you have no hiking experience. Also, don't go alone if you don't know the area; it's better to go as a couple or in a small group. Bring a basic first-aid kit just in case.
Do I need a guide for this route?
It's not mandatory, but if it's your first time in Taganga or you have no mountain experience, a local guide can make the experience safer and more enriching. There are guides in town who charge between 30,000 and 50,000 COP per person. If you prefer to go alone, download the offline map and follow the instructions in this article. The trail is easy to follow if you look for the stone markers left by the locals.
Can I do the route in one day and return to Santa Marta?
Yes, absolutely. The full hike (there, swim at the beach, and back) takes between 4 and 6 hours, depending on your pace. If you leave early, at 6:30 am, you can be back in Taganga by 12:30 or 1:00 pm. From there, buses to Santa Marta leave every 15 minutes and the trip takes about 20 minutes. It's an ideal half-day excursion if you don't want to stay overnight in town.
Is there any cost to do the route?
The trail is public and has no entrance fee. You don't have to pay to use the Cruz del Tagangero or to go down to Playa del Medio. However, if you want to leave a tip for Don Marcos for maintaining the trail, he appreciates it, but he doesn't ask for it.
What do I do if I find trash on the trail?
Pick it up and take it back. Bring an extra bag in your backpack for this purpose. If everyone who passes through here did the same, the trail would stay impeccable. It's not mandatory, but it's a gesture that transforms tourism into real care.
Download the Offline Map of the Route
So you don't get lost, I've prepared a PDF map with the exact route, key points, and coordinates for Playa del Medio. It's a light file you can download to your phone before you leave. You don't need internet to use it. And remember: bring a bag to collect any trash you find. Leave the trail better than you found it. That's the only payment this place asks of you.
Download the map here (link to PDF) — it's free, no tricks.
What to Do
Trail to Playa Grande
The trail that leads to Playa Grande is an excellent option for those looking to enjoy a bit of nature. Make sure to bring water and sunscreen, as the sun can be intense. This path also offers spectacular views of the bay and the opportunity to observe local wildlife, such as iguanas and tropical birds. Insider Tip: If you arrive early, you can enjoy the beach almost deserted before the visitors arrive.
Snorkeling in Taganga Bay
The bay is an ideal place for snorkeling, where you can explore the rich marine life. Several local companies offer equipment rentals and guides to take you to the best snorkeling spots. Insider Tip: Ask about the less crowded places to avoid the crowds and enjoy a more peaceful experience.
Cultural Visits to Indigenous Communities
Taganga is also a meeting point with nearby indigenous communities, such as the Kogi. Some local guides offer tours that include visits to their territories and explanations about their culture and worldview. Insider Tip: Look for guides who are part of the community, so you can have a more authentic and enriching experience.
Diving Lessons
If you've always wanted to learn to dive, Taganga is the perfect place. Several diving schools offer courses for beginners and excursions for experienced divers. Insider Tip: Ask if there are promotions or packages that include a course and a dive at one of the beautiful nearby reefs.
Exploring the Surroundings by Kayak
Renting a kayak is a fun and active way to explore the coast of Taganga. You can paddle to nearby beaches and enjoy the scenery from the water. Insider Tip: Bring a picnic and stop at a quiet beach to enjoy lunch with a sea view.
Where to Eat or Drink
Restaurante La Baguette
This place is famous for its delicious breakfasts and cozy atmosphere. Try their famous chicken baguette, a classic that never fails. Plus, their natural juices are the best way to start the day.
Insider Tip: Go early to secure a spot on the terrace, where you can enjoy the sea view while you eat.
El Point
Ideal for those looking for a more relaxed experience. They offer a variety of seafood dishes, and their ceviche is highly recommended. The atmosphere is informal and perfect for enjoying an afternoon with friends.
Insider Tip: Don't miss happy hour, where you can get beers at a good price and enjoy the sunset from their terrace.
Bar La Piscinita
An iconic place to enjoy cocktails and live music. Its festive atmosphere makes it a meeting point for tourists and locals alike. The mojitos are a must here.
Insider Tip: Ask about the cocktail of the day; they often have unique combinations worth trying.