The Secret of Pozos Colorados: When Tourism Left
If you arrive in Santa Marta via the Troncal del Caribe, you pass through Pozos Colorados without noticing. A faded sign, a dirt entrance, and the sea in the background. But if you stop, the neighborhood tells you a different story. The one that doesn't appear in travel guides or hotel brochures in the area. Until about fifteen years ago, Pozos Colorados was a fishing village where time was measured by the tides and the smell of fried fish. Today, it is a territory in dispute: between the new buildings overlooking the sea and the wooden houses that resist. This article is an attempt to tell what happens when tourism leaves and only those who have always been there remain.
Historical Introduction: From Fishing Settlement to Residential Area
Pozos Colorados was not always a neighborhood. Until the mid-20th century, it was a lonely beach, surrounded by mangroves and tropical dry forest. The first inhabitants came from nearby towns like Taganga and Gaira, attracted by the abundance of fish and tranquility. There was no electricity or running water. The houses were made of palm and wood, and life revolved around artisanal fishing.
📌 Transparency
This article contains sponsored/affiliate links. We may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.
The name "Pozos Colorados" comes from natural freshwater wells that formed in the sand, with a reddish hue due to the minerals in the soil. Fishermen used them to drink and wash the fish. Over time, the name stuck.
In the 1980s, middle-class families from Santa Marta began to arrive, building vacation homes. But the real change came with the tourism boom of the 2000s. The construction of the Troncal del Caribe and the arrival of international hotel chains transformed the coast. Pozos Colorados went from being a hidden village to a strategic point for real estate development. Today, the neighborhood has about 3,000 inhabitants, but the number varies by season. Those who stay are witnesses to a transformation they did not ask for.
What to Do in Pozos Colorados: Beyond the Beach
If you come to Pozos Colorados, don't expect a ready-made tourist destination. There are no white-tablecloth restaurants or souvenir shops here. What there is, is an authentic experience, if you know where to look.
Walk Along the Shore at Sunset
The beach at Pozos Colorados is not the prettiest in Santa Marta, but it has a wild charm. The sand is gray, the water sometimes murky, and the wind blows strong. But at sunset, when the sun sets behind the Sierra Nevada, the sky paints colors that justify the neighborhood's name. Walk from the fishermen's sector to the mouth of the Manzanares River. It's about 2 kilometers one way.
Visit Doña Carmen's Store
On the main street, in front of the soccer field, is Doña Carmen's store. It opened in 1987 and since then has sold everything from panela to cold beer. Doña Carmen, now over 70, sits at the door and greets everyone who passes by. If you ask her, she'll tell you what the neighborhood was like when there were no cars and people bathed in the wells. There's no sign, but everyone knows her.
Birdwatching in the Mangrove
Behind the neighborhood, to the south, there is a piece of mangrove that still survives. Herons, ibises, and, if you're lucky, a kingfisher take refuge there. It's not an eco-park and there are no marked trails. Just a dirt path that disappears among the trees. Bring repellent and water.
Buy Fresh Fish in the Morning
The fishermen go out in wooden boats at 4 in the morning and return around 9. On the beach, next to the boatyard, they sell the fish directly. Red snapper, sierra mackerel, jack. Sometimes lobster too, though less and less. The price is almost half of what it is at the Santa Marta market. Bring a portable cooler if you want to take some.
Where to Eat or Drink: Neighborhood Flavors
Eating in Pozos Colorados is an experience of stove and sea salt. There are no fancy restaurants, but there are kitchens that taste like the real thing.
Grandma Elvira's Stove
In the pink house, two blocks from the beach, Doña Elvira cooks from 11 in the morning. She has no menu: she cooks whatever was caught that day. Coconut rice, patacones, fried fish, and a hogao sauce that is her secret. The plate costs around $18,000 COP (reference price as of May 2026). There is no menu, just ask her what's available.
Don Toño's Corner
Don Toño has an arepa cart on the corner of the soccer field. He's been there for 23 years. The arepas are made from hulled corn, filled with costeño cheese or chicharrón. He sells them from 6 in the evening until they run out, almost always before 9. They cost $5,000 COP each. If you want to try something unique, ask for the arepa with quail egg.
Store and Billiards "El Muelle"
On the street leading to the sea, "El Muelle" is more of a meeting point than a bar. It has two pool tables, a cooler with Águila beer, and a speaker that plays vallenato at full volume. On weekends, it fills up with neighbors playing dominoes and arguing about soccer. A beer costs $3,500 COP. It's not a place for tourists, but if you arrive with respect, you'll be welcomed.
How to Get There and Transportation
Pozos Colorados is about 15 minutes by car from downtown Santa Marta. The main entrance is on the Troncal del Caribe, between the Universidad del Magdalena and Simón Bolívar Airport.
- By bus: From downtown, take any bus that says "Pozos Colorados" or "Gaira". They pass approximately every 15 minutes. The fare is $2,200 COP. Ask the driver to let you know when you arrive, because the stop has no sign.
- By mototaxi: From the public market or the Transportation Terminal, a mototaxi will drop you at the entrance of the neighborhood for $5,000 COP. Negotiate the price before getting on.
- By private car: If you're driving, look for the entrance on the Troncal, at kilometer 5. There is an unpaved road that leads to the center of the neighborhood. Park on the beach or near the soccer field, without blocking the way.
Warning: public transportation is irregular after 8 pm. If you stay late, it's best to arrange for a mototaxi to pick you up.
Local Tips: How to Get Around Without Looking Like a Tourist
- Always greet people. In Pozos Colorados, people greet each other even if they don't know each other. A "good morning" or "good afternoon" as you pass opens doors.
- Don't take out your phone constantly. It's not unsafe, but locals get uncomfortable if they see a stranger recording everything. Ask before taking photos, especially of the elderly.
- Bring cash. There are no ATMs or card machines in the neighborhood. Stores and food stalls only accept cash.
- Respect siesta time. Between 1 and 3 in the afternoon, the neighborhood falls silent. Don't play loud music or make noise.
- Learn a phrase in costeño dialect. Saying "¡ay, ombe!" at the right moment wins you sympathy. It means surprise, agreement, or resignation, depending on the tone.
Profile of Three Iconic Characters: The Memory of the Neighborhood
Pozos Colorados cannot be understood without those who have lived it. Here are three stories that summarize the change.
Don Marcos, the Elderly Fisherman
Don Marcos is 78 years old and still goes out to sea. He was born in a palm house where the "Mar Azul" building now stands. He remembers when the water was so clear you could see the fish from the shore. "Now you have to go further. The buildings blocked the wind and the fish left," he says while mending a net. His boat is called "La Última" (The Last One), because it was the last one his father built. Don Marcos is the only fisherman left from the original generation. The others left, died, or sold their land.
Doña Carmen, the Store Owner
Doña Carmen opened the store in 1987, when Pozos Colorados was a small hamlet. She sold candies and sodas on a wooden table. Today, her store is the social center of the neighborhood. "I used to know everyone who passed by. Now I see new faces every week. People who rent, who build, who come and go," she says. Doña Carmen keeps an album of old photos showing the palm houses and sand streets. It is the unofficial archive of the neighborhood.
Jairo, the Young Entrepreneur
Jairo is 29 years old and was born in Pozos Colorados. He studied business administration at the Universidad del Magdalena and returned to the neighborhood to start a kayak and paddleboard rental business. "Tourists want experiences, not just the beach. I offer them a paddle through the mangrove and tell them the history of the neighborhood," he explains. Jairo is the bridge between the past and the future. His business employs three young people from the neighborhood and donates a percentage to beach cleanups.
Visible Changes: Construction, Foreigners, and Disappearance of Wildlife
The changes in Pozos Colorados are visible to the naked eye. In the last ten years, at least twelve apartment buildings and condominiums have been built on the first line of the beach. Most are owned by foreign investors, especially Europeans, who bought lots at low prices before they went up. Today, a square meter on the beach costs more than 3 million Colombian pesos.
The wildlife has also changed. The sea turtles that nested on the beach have disappeared. There are fewer pelicans. The mangroves, which were once a natural fish nursery, have been reduced by half. Local fishermen say catches have fallen by 70% in the last fifteen years.
The arrival of foreigners also brought new dynamics. Some rent entire houses seasonally, which has driven up rental prices for locals. A room that cost $200,000 pesos a month in 2015 now costs $600,000. Many families have had to move to more distant neighborhoods, like Gaira or Bastidas.
Reflection on Gentrification and Cultural Resistance
What is happening in Pozos Colorados is not unique. It is the same process seen in Taganga, El Rodadero, and Palomino. Coastal gentrification advances with the promise of development but leaves behind those who built the place. However, in Pozos Colorados, there is something different: a cultural resistance that is not loud, but everyday.
Doña Carmen still sells candies in her store. Don Marcos still goes out to sea. Young people like Jairo seek ways to integrate tourism without losing their identity. The soccer field remains the center of the neighborhood, and on Sundays, games are played that last until sunset.
The question is how long this will last. The Santa Marta land use plan, approved in 2024, allows the construction of hotels up to 10 stories in the area. If executed, Pozos Colorados could disappear as a neighborhood and become just another hotel corridor. But as long as someone remembers the reddish freshwater wells, the neighborhood will not be completely gone.
Gallery of Old vs. Current Photos
We can't show images here, but we invite you to do the visual exercise: search online for "Pozos Colorados 1980s" and compare with today's Google Maps photos. You will see how the wooden houses gave way to concrete walls, how the beach filled with umbrellas, and how the children who played in the sand are now adults looking at the sea from their terraces.
If you have old photos of the neighborhood, please send them to the community archive. Every image is a piece of history that should not be lost.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it safe to visit Pozos Colorados?
Yes, it is a quiet neighborhood. As anywhere, you should take basic precautions: don't leave valuables in sight, avoid walking alone at night on dark streets, and ask locals if you have doubts. The community is close-knit and looks after respectful visitors.
Is there accommodation in Pozos Colorados?
Yes, but no large hotels. There are houses for seasonal rental, especially on platforms like Airbnb. There are also some rooms rented by local families. Prices vary between $50,000 and $150,000 COP per night, depending on the season. It is recommended to book in advance and confirm that the place has running water, as the supply sometimes fails.
What is the best time to visit Pozos Colorados?
The best time is between December and April, when the wind is lower and the sea is calmer. From May to November, the rainy season can make the beach dirtier and access to the neighborhood muddy. However, if you like tranquility, the months of September and October are ideal because there are fewer tourists.
How can I contribute to the Pozos Colorados community archive?
If you have photos, videos, or stories of the neighborhood, you can send them to the email address on the Malokal page (malokal.com) or contact the Pozos Colorados Community Action Board. They are collecting material for a local memory book. Every contribution counts.
What does "Pozos Colorados" mean?
The name comes from natural freshwater wells that formed on the beach. The water had a reddish hue due to minerals in the soil, such as iron oxide. Fishermen used them to drink and wash the fish. Today, almost no wells remain, as construction has covered or contaminated them.
Send your Pozos Colorados story for the community archive. If you lived in, visited, or heard stories about this neighborhood, share them. Each account is a piece that helps understand how a community changes when tourism knocks on the door and, sometimes, leaves without closing it.