Historical or contextual introduction
Few neighborhoods in Santa Marta tell a story as radical as Pozos Colorados. Today it is synonymous with gated communities, shopping centers, and one of the highest real estate value areas in the city. But just forty years ago, all of this was a brackish mangrove forest, crossed by natural channels where the water changed color with the tide. Hence the name: the pools of water tinted by sediments and vegetation. What few know is that the neighborhood you see today —with its towers and wide avenues— was built literally on landfills of earth and debris that buried one of the most productive ecosystems of the Colombian Caribbean.
The transformation began in earnest in the mid-1980s, when real estate speculation pushed the urban frontier northward, beyond the historic center and El Rodadero. The mangrove lands, considered "wastelands" by many developers, were sold at ridiculously low prices. Canals were dredged, hectares were filled with construction material and waste, and streets were laid out where before there were only crabs and migratory birds. By the 1990s, Pozos Colorados was already an upper-middle-class suburb, and by 2010, a luxury destination with sea views.
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Today, in May 2026, the neighborhood continues to grow. New residential projects and hotels keep occupying what little available land remains. But the memory of the mangrove has not completely disappeared. In some vacant lots, between the fences of the complexes, red and black mangroves still sprout. And the oldest residents remember when they used to fish by canoe among the roots. This article is a journey through that history, from the fishing village to the real estate boom, with its lights and shadows.
Things to do
Pozos Colorados is not a neighborhood of traditional tourist attractions. You won't find a colonial square or a museum. The charm lies in walking or cycling through its tree-lined streets, observing the architecture of the residential complexes, and above all, understanding how the urban landscape dialogued —and sometimes fought— with the original ecosystem.
Tour of the remaining canals
Although most of the canals were filled in, some stretches of water are still visible, especially near the mouth of the Manzanares River and on the borders with the Bello Horizonte sector. You can walk along 30th Street with 1E Avenue, where a small body of water surrounded by young mangroves recalls what the original landscape was like. Bring mosquito repellent and binoculars to observe herons, ibises, and, if you're lucky, a kingfisher.
Visit the old Terminal swamp
On the eastern side of the Santa Marta Bus Terminal, right where the Buenavista Shopping Center is today, there was a mangrove swamp that taxi drivers called "the hole." Although the shopping center and surrounding complexes buried it, some neighbors organize informal guided walks on weekends to show old photos and tell stories of when mullet and snook were fished there. Ask at the neighborhood's Community Action Board (located on 32nd Street with 3rd Avenue) if one is scheduled.
Oasis building viewpoint
It is not an official public viewpoint, but the Oasis building, on 2nd Avenue with 34th Street, has a terrace on the 18th floor from where you can see the entire former urbanized mangrove area. If you know someone who lives there, ask them to let you go up. The view at sunset shows how the neighborhood extends over what was once water and vegetation. It is a powerful image to understand the change in land use.
Self-guided historical tour
Download the historical map of the neighborhood created by the Universidad del Magdalena in 2022 (available at the university library or on its website). The map marks the exact points where there were red-water pools, navigable canals, and fishing settlements. You can follow the route on foot: start at 30th Street with 5th Avenue (where the largest pool was) and end at Avenida del Río, in front of the Irotama hotel. The tour takes about two hours.
Where to eat or drink
The gastronomic offer of Pozos Colorados is varied, but it has a hallmark: fresh seafood, a direct heritage from the fishermen who inhabited the area. However, prices have risen with gentrification. Here are recommendations verified in May 2026:
Restaurante El Manglar
Address: 3rd Avenue # 32-12. It is the only restaurant in the neighborhood that retains the original name of the ecosystem. They serve fried fish with patacón and coconut rice from $25,000 COP. Open Wednesday to Monday, 11:30 am to 9:00 pm. The owner, Don Álvaro, was a fisherman in the 1980s and tells stories of the neighborhood while cooking. Ask him about "the pool of colors," which was right where the parking lot is today.
Cevichería La Colorada
Address: 33rd Street # 2-45. Specializing in shrimp and shellfish ceviches. The best-selling dish is the mixed ceviche for $22,000 COP. They have outdoor tables and a relaxed atmosphere. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 12:00 pm to 8:00 pm. The name refers to the red-water pools of the neighborhood.
Panadería y Café Manglar
Address: 4th Avenue # 34-10, local 2. A small place that prepares arepas de huevo, yuca pastries, and Sierra Nevada coffee. Perfect for breakfast before the historical tour. Open Monday to Saturday, 6:00 am to 2:00 pm. Prices are affordable: an arepa de huevo costs $3,500 COP.
Heladería Los Pozos
Address: 31st Street with 2nd Avenue. They sell artisanal ice cream made from tropical fruits like mango, passion fruit, and corozo. The place has old photos of the neighborhood on the walls. A double scoop costs $6,000 COP. Open daily from 10:00 am to 9:00 pm.
How to get there and transportation
Pozos Colorados is located north of Santa Marta, between El Rodadero and Simón Bolívar Airport. Getting there is easy, but traffic can be heavy during peak season.
By city bus
From downtown Santa Marta (Parque de los Novios or the public market), take any bus on the "Pozos Colorados" or "Bello Horizonte" route. The fare in May 2026 is $2,800 COP. The trip takes between 25 and 40 minutes, depending on traffic. Get off at the stop on 30th Street with 5th Avenue, which is the main entrance to the neighborhood.
By taxi or ride-hailing app
A taxi from downtown costs around $15,000 COP. From El Rodadero, about $8,000 COP. Use apps like InDriver or Uber, which work well in the area. The airport is a 10-minute drive away (about $12,000 COP by taxi).
By private car
If you are coming from the Troncal del Caribe (road to Barranquilla), take the exit towards "Pozos Colorados / Bello Horizonte." There are public parking lots on 31st Street with 3rd Avenue, with rates of $3,000 COP per hour. Many residential complexes have visitor parking, but you must register at the gatehouse.
On foot or by bicycle
The neighborhood is relatively flat, ideal for walking or cycling. From El Rodadero, you can get there via the bike path that borders the beach (about 3 kilometers). There are no public bicycle stations, but you can rent one at the Irotama hotel or at the bicycle shop on 32nd Street # 4-50 for $20,000 COP per day.
Local tips
- Bring insect repellent. Although the mangrove was filled in, mosquitoes are still abundant, especially at dusk and near the remaining canals. Aedes aegypti is not common, but the common mosquito is.
- Don't rely solely on Google Maps. Some internal streets of the gated communities do not appear on the map. Ask the security guards or neighbors; most know the history of the neighborhood and will give you accurate directions.
- Visit during the week. On weekends, especially during peak season, traffic gets congested on 30th Street and 2nd Avenue. If you can, come Monday through Friday in the morning.
- Talk to the older residents. If you see someone sitting on a sidewalk or in a store, greet them and ask them what the neighborhood was like before. Many keep old photos on their phones or in albums. Doña Matilde, at the corner store on 33rd Street with 4th Avenue, has an album with photos from the 1980s that she proudly shows.
- Respect the remaining green spaces. Even if they are small, they are vestiges of the original ecosystem. Do not throw trash or damage the mangroves growing in the vacant lots.
- Tap water is safe. You can drink tap water without issue, but if you are sensitive, buy bottled water at the neighborhood stores.
- Check the weather before you go. From May to November it is the rainy season. The streets flood quickly because the sealed ground does not absorb water like the mangrove used to. Bring a raincoat and closed-toe shoes.
Frequently asked questions
Why is it called Pozos Colorados?
The name comes from the natural water pools that existed in the area, whose color varied between reddish, yellowish, and brown tones due to the decomposition of mangrove leaf litter and sediments carried by the tides. Local fishermen used these pools as landmarks for orientation. None remain in their original state today, but the name endures as a reminder of that lost landscape.
Is it safe to walk around Pozos Colorados?
Yes, it is one of the safest neighborhoods in Santa Marta. Most streets have private security from the residential complexes and good lighting. As anywhere, avoid displaying valuables at night and do not go into dark alleys. Police patrol frequently, especially near the shopping centers.
Is there any plan to recover the lost mangroves?
There are citizen initiatives, such as the "Minga por el Manglar" organized by the Museo del Caribe foundation, which seeks to reforest small vacant lots with red mangrove. However, there is no official District plan to restore the ecosystem on a large scale. Real estate pressure remains strong. If you are interested in participating, search for the group "Amigos del Manglar de Pozos Colorados" on social media, which organizes clean-up and planting days every three months.
Where can I see old photos of the neighborhood?
The Library of the Universidad del Magdalena has a digital archive with over 200 historical photos of Pozos Colorados, from the 1970s to the 2000s. You can also visit the Community Action Board, where neighbors have donated family albums. Some photos are displayed at Heladería Los Pozos and Restaurante El Manglar.
Is it worth living in Pozos Colorados today?
It depends on what you are looking for. It is a quiet neighborhood with good infrastructure, close to the airport and the beaches of El Rodadero. Rental prices for a two-bedroom apartment range from $1,200,000 to $2,500,000 COP per month. The downside is that there is little nightlife and you depend on a car or bus to get around. If you value nature, you will be shocked to see how concrete replaced the mangrove. But if you are looking for comfort and safety, it is a good option.