The last corner of Gaira: a facade that refuses to disappear
On Calle 12 in Gaira, amidst the noise of mototaxis and the smell of fried food coming from the market, there is a house that seems from another century. It has no sign, no visible number, no block and cement facade. It is made of bareque. Yes, that rammed earth that indigenous people and early settlers used to protect themselves from the sun and humidity. While three-story buildings with metal grilles and "For Sale" signs grow around it, this house remains, stubbornly defying time.
By May 2026, Gaira is no longer the fishing village many remember. Avenida del Ferrocarril has filled with hostels, Calle 12 has become a corridor of informal commerce, and the sound of construction never stops. But on the corner of Carrera 3 with Calle 12, a facade of mud and cane continues to tell a story few want to hear. This guide is not just for architects or urban planners: it is for anyone who has ever felt a city slipping through their fingers.
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What is a casa de bareque and why does it matter?
Bareque is not just a construction technique. It is a way of understanding the climate, materials, and life on the Caribbean coast. It is made with a mixture of clay soil, water, and plant fibers —usually cane or guadua— which is tamped down inside a wooden formwork. In Gaira, the oldest builders added a touch of saltwater so the mud would harden more under the midday sun.
This particular house, which locals call "doña Matilde's house," is a testament to how life was lived in Gaira before tourism changed everything. Its walls are over 80 years old, according to the grandchildren of the lady who inherited it from her grandmother. The walls breathe: in December, when the heat is intense, the mud stays cool; during the October rains, humidity does not seep through.
For an amateur architect, this place is a masterclass in passive design. For a nostalgic traveler, it is a portal to a Caribbean that barely exists anymore.
What to do on Calle 12 and its surroundings
Observe the bareque facade
The first thing is to stand across the street, on the opposite sidewalk, and look calmly. The facade is not perfect: it has cracks, cement patches that tried to fill holes, and a green paint baseboard that is peeling. But that is where the beauty lies. Notice the rounded corners, typical of coastal bareque, and the wooden beams that support the zinc roof. No two houses are alike, because each builder left their mark on the formwork.
If you are lucky and doña Matilde or one of her children is in the yard, you can ask permission to enter. The family is wary, but if you explain that you are interested in traditional architecture, they usually open the door. Inside, the floor is rammed earth, and the smell of firewood and coffee mixes with that of damp mud.
Walk along Calle 12 and look for other remnants
Calle 12 is not just this house. If you walk east, towards the Troncal del Caribe, you can still see some bareque facades hidden behind plastic signs and "For Rent" notices. On Carrera 2, between Calles 11 and 12, there is an abandoned house with a palm roof that is collapsing. It is sad, but it is also a reminder of what is lost when progress does not look back.
For the nostalgic traveler, I recommend doing this walk at sunset, when the golden light hits the mud and the textures become almost sculptural. Bring a camera, but ask before photographing people.
Visit the Gaira market
Two blocks from the casa de bareque, on Calle 10 with Carrera 4, is the Gaira market. It is not the largest in Santa Marta, but it is the most authentic. Here you can find fresh fish, plantains, yucca, and the coastal cheese locals use for breakfast. There are also fried food stalls: arepas de huevo, empanadas, and carimañolas. A full breakfast will cost you around 8,000 to 10,000 COP (reference prices from May 2026).
The market is a good place to hear stories. Ask any vendor over 50 if they remember the old bareque houses. They will tell you that almost all of Gaira was like that, that there wasn't a single block house, and that the mud was brought from the Cerro de la Gloria.
Where to eat or drink near Calle 12
Typical foods at the market
At the Gaira market, look for "Doña Lola's" stall. It has no written name, but everyone knows it. She serves fish sancocho on Thursdays and Fridays, and arroz de lisa almost every day. A large plate costs around 15,000 COP. Bring cash, as they do not accept cards.
Traditional food restaurants in the area
Three blocks from the house, on Carrera 3 with Calle 11, is "El Punto de Gaira," a small restaurant open Monday to Saturday, 11am to 8pm. They serve coastal bandeja paisa (yes, with coconut rice), and there are vegetarian options. Dishes range from 12,000 to 18,000 COP.
If you prefer something quicker, on Calle 12 itself there are several natural juice and raspado stalls. Corozo juice is the locals' favorite: sour, sweet, and ice cold.
Bars and beers at dusk
Do not expect craft cocktails around here. On the corner of Calle 12 with Carrera 2, there is a shop called "La Esquina de la 12" that sells ice-cold beer and rum with coconut. The chairs are plastic and the music is vallenato at full volume. It is perfect for sitting down and watching life go by. A beer costs between 3,000 and 4,000 COP.
How to get to Calle 12 in Gaira
From downtown Santa Marta
The easiest way is to take a city bus that says "Gaira" or "Mercado." The buses run along Avenida del Ferrocarril and drop you off on Calle 12. The fare is 2,200 COP (May 2026). You can also take a mototaxi from downtown: they will charge you between 5,000 and 7,000 COP, depending on your negotiation.
From the airport or Rodadero
If you are coming from Simón Bolívar Airport, the best option is to take a taxi to Calle 12 in Gaira. It is about 15 minutes and will cost you between 15,000 and 20,000 COP. From Rodadero, you can take a bus heading downtown and get off at the Troncal with Calle 12, then walk about three blocks west.
By private car
If you are driving, keep in mind that Calle 12 is narrow and often congested, especially during market hours (7am to 10am). There is parking on Calle 10, near the market, but it is not guarded. It is better to leave the car in a private parking lot on the Troncal and walk.
Local tips to make the most of your visit
- Hours: The casa de bareque has no visiting hours. The best time to go is between 9am and 11am, or after 4pm, when the family is more relaxed and more likely to let you in.
- Clothing: Wear light clothing, closed-toe shoes (the dirt floor may have stones or glass), and bring mosquito repellent. In Gaira there are mosquitoes, especially at dusk.
- Language: On Calle 12, almost no one speaks English. If you don't speak Spanish, bring a translator on your phone or learn basic phrases like "¿Puedo tomar una foto?" and "Gracias."
- Buy local: If you want to support the community, buy fruits or fried foods at the market. It is better than giving money directly to the family of the casa de bareque, who sometimes feel uncomfortable with charity.
- Don't touch the walls: Bareque is fragile, especially when dry. If you enter the house, avoid leaning on the walls or touching them forcefully. They can crumble.
- Fun fact: The bareque builders of Gaira used crushed mollusk shells to mix with the mud. This gave it a special texture and helped repel insects. Today, almost no one knows how to do it.
The threat of modernization: how much time does this house have left?
The casa de bareque on Calle 12 is not a national monument, nor does it have a plaque, nor is it protected by any law. It is simply the home of a family that has not had the resources to demolish it and build something "modern." But that is changing. In 2025, an investor offered to buy the lot for 80 million pesos. The family said no, but the pressure continues. Neighbors say engineers have already come to measure the land, and that the mayor's office has plans to "beautify" Calle 12 with uniform cement facades.
For an urban planning student, this is a perfect case study: how gentrification and mass tourism erase the traces of vernacular architecture. For a nostalgic traveler, it is an opportunity to see something that might not exist in five years.
If you want to do something, the most useful thing is to document. Take photos, note the exact coordinates (approximately 11.2336° N, 74.2067° W) and upload them to Google Maps with the tag #CasaDeBarequeGaira. You can also write to the Secretary of Culture of Santa Marta to ask if there are plans to declare this house as heritage. Sometimes, citizen pressure works.
Frequently asked questions
Can you enter the casa de bareque or can you only see it from outside?
Generally, you can only see it from the street, as it is a private residence. However, if you arrive at a quiet time and politely ask for permission, the family might let you in for a few minutes to the yard. Do not insist if they say no.
Are there other casas de bareque in Gaira or Santa Marta?
Yes, but fewer and fewer. In Gaira, besides the one on Calle 12, there are remnants of bareque on Carrera 2 with Calle 11 (an abandoned house) and in the Mamatoco sector, north of the city. In the historic center of Santa Marta, some colonial mansions have bareque walls, but they are covered with cement. The most famous is the Casa de la Aduana, but that is already a museum.
Is it worth going just to see this house if I'm passing through Santa Marta?
It depends on what you are looking for. If you are interested in traditional architecture, local history, or neighborhood life, then yes. The house is a detail, but the walk along Calle 12 and the market gives you an authentic experience of how people live in Gaira. If you only have one day and want the beach, it is better to stay in Rodadero. But if you like things that don't appear in tourist guides, this is a must-see.
Historical or contextual introduction
The Casa de Bareque, located on Calle 12 in Gaira, is a living testament to the traditional architecture of the region. This type of construction, characterized by the use of bareque (a mixture of mud and canes), reflects the history of a town that has known how to adapt and resist the passage of time. In Gaira, this architectural style is not limited to the Casa de Bareque; it can also be observed in other buildings that have remained intact over the years, offering a glimpse into the daily life of its inhabitants.
Gaira, once a quiet fishing village, has evolved over the decades, but its essence remains. The bustle of mototaxis and the aroma of fried food emanating from the market are integral parts of the local culture. Here, people stop to chat, share anecdotes, and enjoy typical dishes that have been passed down from generation to generation.
For those who wish to learn more about the history of Gaira and its evolution, it is recommended to visit the Casa de Bareque not only for its architecture but also for the atmosphere that surrounds it. The local community is very welcoming and always willing to share stories about their traditions and customs.