El Rodadero before tourism: a guide to Rodaderense memory
If you are one of those who grew up in El Rodadero before the buildings blocked the sea view from Calle 9, you surely remember the smell of fried fish in the mornings and the sound of waves crashing against the rocks. There were no shopping malls, no nightclubs, no tourists with cameras hanging around their necks. There were fishermen, tejo, natural water springs, and a neighborhood life that today seems like a distant dream. In June 2026, when the noise of jet skis and street vendors is the soundtrack of the area, it is worth taking a trip to the past. This guide is not for tourists looking for beach and rum; it is for those who want to understand what this piece of Santa Marta was like when it was not yet called a "tourist destination."
Historical introduction: from fishing cove to popular beach resort
Before El Rodadero became the epicenter of tourism on the Caribbean coast, it was a fishing cove. The families who arrived at the beginning of the 20th century —many of them displaced by bipartisan violence or simply seeking a quieter life— settled in what was then a cove protected by the Sierra Nevada. There was no paved road; you arrived by donkey or on foot from Santa Marta along a dirt path that bordered the bay.
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The name "El Rodadero" comes from the ruts left by oxcarts as they lowered the load of fish from the mountain to the beach. The oldest residents of the neighborhood still remember when the sand reached the doors of the houses, and the Avenida del Mar did not exist. The sea was everyone's backyard: children swam naked, women washed clothes on the rocks, and men went out in their bongos (wooden canoes) at dawn.
In the 1960s, the departmental government began paving the road connecting Santa Marta with the highway to Barranquilla, and with that came the first national tourists. But the real change came in the 1970s, when the first large hotel, the Irotama, was built, and real estate speculation began to transform the landscape. By the 1980s, the wattle-and-daub houses with palm roofs were already being replaced by apartment buildings. The fishermen, pushed out by the rising cost of living, had to move to more distant neighborhoods like Gaira or Don Jaca.
Interview with an old fisherman: Don "Mono" Jiménez
For this guide, we spoke with Don José "Mono" Jiménez, 78 years old, a retired fisherman who lived in El Rodadero since 1958. We found him at his house facing the beach, on Calle 12, where he still keeps his bongo hanging in the yard.
"This was another world," he says while pointing to the 15-story building that now blocks the sea view. "When I arrived, there were only four houses here. Don Pedro's, Doña Rosa's, my dad's, and the man who sold liquor from his house. The sea reached the door of the San José Obrero church, which was a wooden chapel back then."
Don Mono remembers that fishing was abundant. "We caught snapper, sierra mackerel, jack, and even lobster. What we didn't sell at the Santa Marta market, we traded for plantains, yucca, or panela with the farmers from the Sierra. Nobody went hungry. The problem came when the tourists arrived and started buying the land. A lot worth 500 pesos in 1970 cost 50,000 in 1985. We fishermen couldn't compete."
Today, Don Mono lives on his pension and by renting out his bongo for tourist rides. "I'm not complaining, but sometimes I feel like a decoration. Tourists take my picture as if I were part of the landscape, but they don't know I was fishing here before they were even born."
Comparative photos: Calle 9 in 1980 vs today
If there is one street that symbolizes the transformation of El Rodadero, it is Calle 9. In the 1980s, it was a dirt road with single-story houses, pastel-colored facades, and a small park where children played soccer. There were no traffic lights, no fast-food restaurants, no umbrella vendors. People sat on the sidewalks drinking black coffee and watching time go by.
In a photo from 1982 lent to us by the Pérez family, you can see Calle 9 with a group of children riding bicycles in front of the old store "La Económica," which sold everything from cooking oil to fishing bait. In the background, the sea was fully visible, with no buildings blocking it. Today, that same corner is a cluster of pizza places, ice cream shops, and handicraft stores. The noise of engines and blaring music has replaced the sound of the waves.
Another image from 1985 shows the beach almost empty, with only three or four white canvas tents rented by local families. There were no hammocks, no jet skis, no ceviche vendors. The sand was whiter and the water clearer, according to the old-timers. "Now it looks like an anthill," says Doña Carmen, 65, who still lives on Calle 9. "Before, you could swim in peace. Now you have to dodge boats and drunk tourists."
What to do: a journey through affectionate memory
You can't go back to the past, but you can visit the places that still hold vestiges of that old Rodadero. Here is a suggested route for the nostalgic:
The old tejo court
On Calle 11 with Carrera 2, where there is now a parking lot, was the most famous tejo court in the neighborhood. It was called "El Boliche de Don Toño." On weekends, men gathered to play tejo, drink cold beer, and bet whatever they had. The smell of gunpowder and sweat was characteristic. Doña María, Don Toño's wife, sold egg arepas and patacones. The court closed in 1995, when the land was sold to build an apartment building. Today, only a metal plaque on the wall commemorates the place, placed by the Community Action Board in 2018.
The natural water spring
Behind what is now the Hotel Tamacá, at the mouth of the Gaira River, there was a freshwater spring that bubbled up between the rocks. Locals called it "El Ojo de Agua." It was a sacred place for the fishermen, because they washed their nets there and cooled off after their work. It was also a meeting point for women, who went to wash clothes and chat. The spring was covered up in 2001 during the construction of the boardwalk. Some say the water still flows beneath the concrete, but no one has been able to prove it.
The first tent rental shop
On the beach, in front of Calle 10, was Don Efraín "El Carpero's" shop. In 1965, he was the first to rent canvas tents and beach chairs to the tourists who were starting to arrive. He charged 2 pesos per hour, and the tents were so big they could fit entire families. Don Efraín also sold cold coconuts and lemonade. His shop closed in 1990, when the municipality banned tents on the beach to "modernize" the area. Today, at that same spot, there is a fast-food restaurant selling hot dogs for 15,000 pesos.
List of 5 businesses that no longer exist and their legacy
- La Económica (Calle 9): It was the largest grocery store in the neighborhood. It sold everything from candles to fishing rods. It closed in 1992, when the owner retired. Its legacy: it was the first place in El Rodadero where you could buy block ice.
- Restaurante El Pargo Dorado (Carrera 1): A family-run place that served fried fish with patacones and coconut rice. It was famous for its "sudado de sierra" (sierra mackerel stew). It closed in 1998, when the building was demolished to build a hotel. Its legacy: the stew recipe is still cooked in some houses in the neighborhood.
- Discoteca La Bodeguita (Calle 12): It opened in 1975 and was the first dance spot in El Rodadero. It played salsa, merengue, and porros. It closed in 2000, when the noise generated complaints from neighbors. Its legacy: it was the venue where many Rodaderenses learned to dance.
- Ferretería El Martillo (Calle 10): It sold tools, paint, and construction materials. It was the reference point for the neighborhood's bricklayers. It closed in 2005, when the owner passed away. Its legacy: its wooden facade is still preserved in a giant photo at the Community Action Board.
- Tienda de Doña Lola (Carrera 3): A small shop selling typical sweets: cocadas, enyucados, alegrías, and panelitas. Doña Lola made them by hand since 1960. It closed in 2010, when she moved to live with her daughter in Bogotá. Its legacy: the cocada recipe was published in a local cookbook in 2015.
Where to eat or drink: flavors that survive
Although many businesses have closed, some places still maintain the flavor of the old Rodadero. Don't expect luxury; it's neighborhood food with history.
Doña Nelly's Eatery (Calle 11 # 2-15)
Doña Nelly, 72, has been selling home-style lunches for 40 years. Her specialty is mote de queso with fried fish, a dish she learned from her grandmother, who was a fisherwoman. Prices are as of June 2026: a full lunch costs 18,000 pesos. Open Monday to Saturday, from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Don Ramiro's Cevichería (Carrera 1 # 9-30)
Don Ramiro, a former fisherman, opened his cevichería in 1995. He uses his father's recipe: snapper ceviche with lime, red onion, and cilantro, served in a totuma (gourd bowl). A plate costs 25,000 pesos. Open Thursday to Sunday, from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
La Tradicional Bakery (Calle 10 # 3-12)
Founded in 1978, this bakery still bakes yucca bread and almojábanas in a wood-fired oven. The owner, Don Álvaro, is the founder's son. A yucca bread costs 1,500 pesos. Open every day from 6 a.m. to 8 p.m.
How to get there and transportation
El Rodadero is a 10-minute drive from downtown Santa Marta. If coming from Simón Bolívar Airport, take a taxi (costs around 30,000 pesos) or a bus on the Aeropuerto-Rodadero route (2,500 pesos).
To get around the neighborhood, walking is best, as the streets are narrow and traffic during high season is terrible. If you need to go further, mototaxis charge between 3,000 and 5,000 pesos for short trips. There are also buses connecting El Rodadero with downtown Santa Marta, Gaira, and Bello Horizonte, with a fare of 2,200 pesos.
If coming by private car, be aware that parking on Calle 9 costs 10,000 pesos per hour during high season. Locals recommend parking on Calle 12, where there are informal parking lots for 5,000 pesos per hour.
Local tips
- Talk to the old-timers of the neighborhood: If you see an old man sitting in a rocking chair in front of his house, greet him and ask him what the neighborhood was like before. He will tell you stories you won't find in any book. Most are friendly and enjoy reminiscing.
- Visit the Community Action Board (Calle 10 # 2-40): They have an album of old photos donated by neighbors. You can ask to see it Monday to Friday, from 9 a.m. to 12 p.m. It's free, but they appreciate a voluntary contribution.
- Avoid peak hours: El Rodadero gets crowded with tourists from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. If you want to feel the tranquility of before, go to the beach at 6 a.m., when only the fishermen and seagulls are there.
- Don't buy from the beach stalls: Prices are inflated for tourists. Instead, walk two blocks inland and buy from the neighborhood stores, where water costs 1,000 pesos and not 3,000.
- Respect the silence: Many elderly residents still live in the neighborhood and complain about the noise. If you're going to drink beer on the beach at night, do it quietly, as it was done before.
Frequently asked questions
Why is it called El Rodadero?
The name comes from the "rodadas" or ruts left by oxcarts when transporting fish from the beach to the road. There are also those who say it refers to the ruts made by children sliding down the sand dunes. Both versions are true, according to local historians.
Where can I see old photos of El Rodadero?
In addition to the Community Action Board, you can search the digital archive of the Santa Marta Public Library (at Carrera 5 with Calle 16) or the Facebook group "Rodadero Antiguo," where neighbors share family photos. You can also ask at Don Ramiro's shop, which has some framed photos on the wall.
What happened to the original fishermen?
Most moved to neighborhoods like Gaira, Don Jaca, or the La Lucha area, where the cost of living was lower. Some, like Don Mono, stayed and now rent out their bongos or sell fish on the beach. However, artisanal fishing has drastically decreased due to pollution and overfishing. According to the El Rodadero Fishermen's Association, fewer than 20 active fishermen remain in the area.
Is it safe to walk around El Rodadero at night?
As in any neighborhood in Santa Marta, it depends on the area. The main streets (Calle 9, Carrera 1) are safe until 10 p.m. because there is tourist activity. But the more interior streets, like Calle 12 or Carrera 3, can be deserted and dark. Locals recommend not walking alone after 9 p.m. and avoiding carrying visible valuables.
Share your memory
Do you have a photo of your grandfather or grandmother in El Rodadero before 1990? Upload it to Instagram or Facebook with the hashtag #RodaderoAntiguo and tag @malokal. The best photos will be published on our page and shared with the Community Action Board. Help us preserve the memory of this neighborhood that, although it changed, will never lose its fisherman's soul.