Introduction: When El Rodadero Still Belongs to the Locals
It's 5:15 in the morning and the sky over Santa Marta Bay begins to lighten. The sea, which hours earlier roared against the rocks of Piedras del Mar, now breathes slowly, as if it too were waking up. The smell of salt, fish, and freshly brewed coffee mixes in the air. There are no tourists with colorful towels or street vendors yet. Just a group of people walking barefoot towards the shore, some with water up to their waists, others submerged up to their necks, floating in silence. This is El Rodadero that few know: the one of the locals who have been waking up early for decades to bathe before the sun gets too hot.
For the average visitor, El Rodadero is synonymous with hotels, seafood restaurants, and crowded beaches in high season. But for those of us who live here, the real Rodadero begins long before the umbrellas open. It is a ritual repeated every dawn, a sea bath that is not just hygiene or exercise: it is a connection to what we were as a coastal town, an almost spiritual act that defies the noise of mass tourism.
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In June 2026, as the Caribbean waves continue their eternal cycle, this article is an invitation to experience that moment. To wake up with El Rodadero before everyone arrives. To understand why, for many samarios, the day doesn't start until the saltwater touches the skin.
What to Do: The Dawn Ritual
If you arrive at El Rodadero at 5:00 a.m., you will find a spectacle that is not in any travel guide. The main beach, facing the avenue, is still semi-empty. The fishermen's boats rest on the sand, and seagulls fight over the night's leftovers. But what really matters happens in the water.
The Early Bathers' Swim
From 5:30 a.m., groups of people — men and women of all ages — enter the sea with a naturalness that is surprising. There is no rush. Some dive in headfirst, others enter slowly, feeling the temperature. Many have been doing it for years. Doña Marta, a 68-year-old woman who has lived in the El Rodadero neighborhood since she was 12, told me she comes every day since her husband passed away. "The sea cleanses my soul," she says while drying her hair with a worn towel. "Here it doesn't matter if you have money or not. The water is the same for everyone."
If you want to join, you need nothing more than swim trunks or a bikini, and to arrive with respect. The locals are not unfriendly, but they appreciate you not treating them like a tourist attraction. Simply enter the water, say hello if they look at you, and float. The waves are gentle at that hour, and the water temperature is around 26 °C. You will feel how the salt holds you as the sun begins to peek out from behind the Sierra Nevada.
Meeting the Artisanal Fishermen
If you walk towards the left side of the beach, near the mouth of the Gaira river, you will see the artisanal fishermen preparing their boats. Don Pedro, a 62-year-old man with sun-leathered skin, has been waking up early here for 40 years. "Before, this was all sand and mangrove," he tells me while checking his nets. "Now there are buildings everywhere, but the sea is still the same. The fish know when there is respect."
Talking to them is not difficult. If you approach with genuine curiosity, they will tell you stories of how they fished for red snapper, sierra, and jack when El Rodadero was a fishing village. Some will even sell you fresh fish if you arrive early. The price is usually lower than at the market: a whole snapper can cost between $15,000 and $25,000 COP, depending on size. But be careful: this is an agreement of trust, not a tourist business. Don't haggle aggressively, and if you buy, thank them properly.
Dawn Photography: The Perfect Light
For photographers, El Rodadero at 6:00 a.m. is a gift. The light is golden and soft, ideal for capturing silhouettes of bathers, wooden boats, and the reflection of the Sierra Nevada in the water. The best spot is from the jetty on the main beach, where the black rocks contrast with the white foam. Bring a wide-angle lens if you want to capture the breadth of the bay, or a telephoto lens to photograph the fishermen without invading their space. And don't forget a small tripod for long exposure shots if the sea is calm.
Where to Eat or Drink After the Swim
After an hour in the water, your body craves something warm. And in El Rodadero, the local breakfast offerings are as authentic as the bathing ritual. Forget the fancy restaurants on the avenue: the good stuff is on the corners and at the makeshift stalls.
The Arepa de Huevo and Coffee Stalls
On Calle 10 with Carrera 2, right in front of the beach, there is a stall that has no name but that locals know as "Señora Carmen's." From 5:30 a.m., Carmen sells freshly fried arepas de huevo (at $4,000 COP each) and black coffee with panela for $1,500 COP. The arepa crunches when you bite into it, and the runny egg mixes with the corn. It's the perfect breakfast after the sea. "I've been here for 20 years," says Carmen while wiping the counter with a cloth. "The same customers have been coming since they were kids. Now they bring their children."
Don Tito's Restaurant
Two blocks from the beach, on Carrera 3 with Calle 12, is Restaurante Don Tito, a family-run place that opens at 7:00 a.m. Its specialty is the samario breakfast: fried fish with patacón, coconut rice, and salad, for $18,000 COP. The fish is fresh, straight from the boat of Don Pedro and other fishermen. The atmosphere is noisy, with plastic tables and ceiling fans, but the food is honest and the service friendly. If you are truly hungry, order the "mote de queso," a thick soup of costeño cheese with ñame that will set you up for the day.
Corner Coffee: The Meeting Point
On the corner of Avenida El Rodadero with Calle 8, there is a coffee shop with no sign that everyone calls "the old lady's coffee." An 80-year-old woman prepares tinto (black coffee) in a clay pot and serves it in small plastic cups. The price: $1,000 COP. It is the place where fishermen gather after their work, and where bathers sit to talk about politics, soccer, or life. Don't expect a specialty espresso: this is traditional Colombian coffee, strong and with panela. But the experience is worth more than any trendy latte.
How to Get There and Transportation
Getting to El Rodadero from downtown Santa Marta is easy, but if you want to experience the dawn, you need to wake up early. Public transportation starts running around 5:00 a.m., but schedules can be irregular. Here are your options:
- City bus: From downtown, take the "Rodadero" or "Bello Horizonte" route on Carrera 1 with Calle 22. The fare is $2,800 COP (reference price for June 2026). Buses run every 15-20 minutes from 5:00 a.m. The trip takes about 25 minutes, depending on traffic.
- Taxi: A taxi from downtown to El Rodadero costs between $15,000 and $20,000 COP. If you are a group of 3 or 4, it's cheaper than the bus. Ask to be dropped off at the main beach, facing the avenue.
- Walking: If you are staying in El Rodadero itself, most hotels are less than a 10-minute walk from the beach. Just follow the sound of the waves.
- Bicycle: Some hostels rent bicycles for $10,000 COP per day. The bike path from downtown to El Rodadero is in good condition, but be careful: at 5:00 a.m. it is still dark, so bring a light and reflectors.
My recommendation: if you can, walk. Feeling the fresh morning air as the sun starts to warm up is part of the ritual. And if you come in a group, arrange to arrive together: the silence of the empty beach is best enjoyed in company.
Local Tips So You Don't Look Like a Tourist
Here are some tips that only a local would give you. Don't ignore them if you want to live the full experience:
- Arrive before 5:30 a.m. By 6:30 a.m., the first tourists start arriving with their speakers and selfies. The magic is lost when the beach fills up. Waking up early is the key.
- Don't use sunscreen before the swim. It sounds contradictory, but locals will tell you that sunscreen pollutes the water and scares away the fish. If you need protection, apply it after the swim, when you are dry. Besides, sea salt is a natural exfoliant.
- Bring a waterproof bag for your phone. El Rodadero is not dangerous at that hour, but the waves can be unpredictable. I've seen more than one tourist lose their phone in the water. A waterproof case costs $5,000 COP at any beach store.
- Don't take photos of bathers without permission. It's tempting, especially when you see an elderly woman floating with her eyes closed. But it is an invasion of their privacy. If you want to take a photo, ask permission with a smile. Most will say yes, and will even pose for you.
- Try coconut water after the swim. On the corner of the beach, a vendor named "Coco Loco" arrives at 6:00 a.m. with a cart full of cold coconuts. He opens them with a machete and puts a straw in. They cost $4,000 COP. Coconut water is hydrating and gives you energy back after the sea.
- Respect the silence. The early morning at El Rodadero is a time of reflection. Don't shout, don't play music, don't make crude jokes. People come to connect with the sea, not to listen to your songs.
A Curious Fact Few People Know
The name "Rodadero" does not come from "rodar" (to roll) on the sand, as many think. According to the oldest fishermen, the original name was "El Rodeadero," because the sea currents formed a natural roundup where fish got trapped. Over time, the pronunciation softened and it became "Rodadero." Even today, fishermen know the exact spots where the water swirls and the schools of fish concentrate. It is knowledge passed down from generation to generation, without maps or GPS.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it safe to swim at El Rodadero at dawn?
Yes, as long as you take basic precautions. The waves are gentle at that hour, and the beach has police surveillance from 5:30 a.m. Avoid swimming alone if you are not a strong swimmer, and don't go too far from the shore. The currents are not strong, but the sea always has its own rhythm. Locals recommend not going in if you see a red flag at the lifeguard stations, although at that hour there almost never is one.
Do I need to pay to enter the beach?
# Beaches in Colombia are public by law. El Rodadero is free to access. The only things that may cost are parking if you arrive by car (around $5,000 COP per hour in nearby lots) or renting chairs and umbrellas, which usually starts at 7:00 a.m. But if you arrive early, you can sit on the sand for free.
Can I buy fresh fish directly from the fishermen?
Yes, and it is one of the best experiences. The fishermen arrive between 6:00 and 7:00 a.m. with their catch of the day. The price varies depending on the season and species, but it is generally cheaper than in supermarkets. Bring cash, as they don't accept cards. And if you don't know how to cook fish, they themselves can recommend how to prepare it: baked, fried, or in ceviche.
Closing: The Soul of the Neighborhood Before Tourism
El Rodadero has changed a lot in the last 30 years. What was once a fishing village with dirt streets and wooden houses is now a tourist destination with 15-story buildings, shopping malls, and nightclubs that blast music until 3 in the morning. But there is something that mass tourism has not been able to touch: the early morning. At 5:00 a.m., El Rodadero still belongs to the locals. To those who bathe out of tradition, to those who fish out of necessity, to those who drink coffee from plastic cups while the sun paints the sky orange.
If you come to Santa Marta, don't just settle for the postcard of a crowded beach. Wake up early, walk barefoot to the shore, and get into the sea before the noise of the day begins. There, floating in the saltwater, you will understand why this place remains special. Not because of the hotels or the restaurants, but because of the silent ritual that repeats every dawn.
And you? Have you already experienced a dawn at El Rodadero? Share your experience in the comments on Malokal. Tell us your favorite beach at dawn, or if you have your own ritual. Because the sea belongs to everyone, but the early morning belongs to those who dare to seek it.