Introduction: Beyond the Algorithm
In the Historic Center of Santa Marta, sound is not downloaded. It is found. While TikTok covers of reggaeton saturate the screens, there is a scene that escapes the algorithm: that of the street musicians who have been playing on the neighborhood corners for decades — or generations. Here there are no filters or loops. There are purposely out-of-tune accordions, guitars with fishing line strings, and voices that narrate the history of a city that cannot fit into a 15-second video. This article is for those who want to hear Santa Marta, not just see it.
May 2026 finds the Center more alive than ever, with a constant flow of national and international tourists walking between Plaza de Bolívar and Calle 14. But if you only stick with what you see, you miss the essential. Here are three characters that define the soundscape of the Center, their exact spots, and how to find them without relying on Google Maps.
📌 Transparency
This article contains sponsored/affiliate links. We may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.
Profile 1: Don Ramiro, the Accordionist of Plaza de Bolívar
Don Ramiro is 68 years old and has played the accordion since he was 12. He does not use social media. His repertoire is pure traditional vallenato: songs by Escalona, Diomedes Díaz, and some of his own compositions that he has never recorded. He sits on the same wooden bench in front of the Cathedral, every day from 9:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m., and from 4:00 p.m. to 7:00 p.m. "Here there is no microphone, just the wind and the people," he says while adjusting the bellows.
Key repertoire: "La casa en el aire", "El testamento", "Matilde Lina". If you ask him for a porro, he laughs and plays "El pescador" by Barranquilla. He does not accept covers of current artists. "That's not vallenato, it's noise," he states.
Fun fact: Don Ramiro tunes his accordion with a technique inherited from his grandfather: he uses beeswax to seal air leaks. He says the sound "tastes like honey."
Map point: Wooden bench on the north side of Plaza de Bolívar, right under the shade of the largest almond tree. It is easy to locate because there is always a mixed-breed dog sleeping at his feet.
Profile 2: La Negra del Tambor, at Calle 14 with Carrera 4
María del Socorro, known as "La Negra del Tambor," is a 45-year-old woman who has played alegre and llamador drums since she was 8. She learned by watching her father, a bullerengue musician who traveled through the towns of Magdalena. She does not sing, but her drum speaks. "Each beat is a word. If you know how to listen, you understand what I say," she explains while striking the skin with open palms.
Repertoire: Bullerengue rhythms, chalupa, and some cowboy songs. She does not use sheet music. Everything is oral memory. "This is not taught in conservatories," she says. Her session lasts between 30 and 45 minutes, and then she rests for 10 to hydrate. She always carries a bottle of panela water with lemon.
Fun fact: La Negra del Tambor makes her own drumheads with goat leather she buys at the Taganga market. She says cow leather "sounds like death."
Map point: Corner of Calle 14 with Carrera 4, in front of the "Arte Sannartinero" handicraft store. She arrives around 3:00 p.m. and plays until the sun sets (around 6:00 p.m.).
Profile 3: The Gaita and the Guacharaca, at Parque de los Novios
Jairo and his younger son, 17 years old, form a duo that plays gaitas and guacharaca. Jairo is 52 years old and is a descendant of the Kogui indigenous people. The gaita he plays is made of cardón, a dried cactus that grows in the Sierra Nevada. "Each gaita has a spirit. If you don't treat it well, it won't sound," he says. His son plays the guacharaca with a rhythm that seems impossible for a teenager.
Repertoire: Traditional cumbias, porros, and some Sierra airs. They do not play champeta or commercial vallenato. "That's for speakers," Jairo laughs. His music is instrumental, with a sound that evokes the wind among the hills.
Fun fact: Jairo buries his gaita in the beach sand for three days before playing it in public. "The earth gives it its voice," he explains.
Map point: At Parque de los Novios, specifically in the central roundabout. Their schedule is irregular, but they are usually there on weekends from 10:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m.
What to Do: How to Listen Without Disturbing
It is not just about standing and listening. There is a local etiquette that few tourists know. Here are the unwritten rules:
- Don't record without asking: Many street musicians get offended if you put a cell phone in their face without greeting them first. Don Ramiro, for example, only allows recording if you buy him a soda or leave a tip of at least $5,000 COP.
- Don't interrupt the song: If you are passing by, wait for the song to end to talk or leave money. Interrupting is bad manners.
- Sit on the floor or on a bench: Don't stand right in front blocking the view. Musicians appreciate you taking the time to sit and listen, even if it's just for one song.
- Fair tip: In May 2026, the suggested minimum is $3,000 to $5,000 COP per song. If you stay for 20 minutes, leave $10,000 COP. The musicians live off of it.
Where to Eat or Drink Near the Music Spots
The Center has options to stretch out your walk without losing the rhythm:
- La Casa del Café (Calle 16 # 3-45): Two blocks from Plaza de Bolívar. Offers Sierra Nevada coffee for $4,000 COP. Ideal for sitting down after listening to Don Ramiro.
- Restaurante Donde Chucho (Calle 14 # 4-20): Right next to La Negra del Tambor's spot. They serve fried fish with patacón for $18,000 COP. Open from 11:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.
- Bar El Rincón del Parque (Parque de los Novios): Cold beer for $5,000 COP and ambient music. Perfect for listening to Jairo and his son from a table.
How to Get There and Transportation
The Historic Center is mostly pedestrian, but getting there is easy:
- On foot: If you are in El Rodadero, take an urban bus (route 1 or 2) to Avenida del Ferrocarril. From there, walk 10 minutes towards Plaza de Bolívar.
- By taxi: From any point in El Rodadero, the trip costs between $10,000 and $15,000 COP. From the airport, about $25,000 COP.
- By mototaxi: Quick and cheap option ($5,000 COP from Avenida Libertador). Ask for "la Plaza" or "el Parque de los Novios".
- By bicycle: There are public bicycle stations near the Mercado Público. Rental is $2,000 COP per hour.
Interview: The Relationship with the Neighborhood and Tourism
We spoke with Don Ramiro and La Negra del Tambor about how they see the change in the Center. Don Ramiro says: "Before we were invisible. People passed by and didn't even look at us. Now they come with their cell phones, but many don't listen. They just want the video for Instagram. That's not culture, it's a showcase."
La Negra del Tambor is more optimistic: "Tourism brings money, but it also brings noise. Sometimes people talk loudly while I play, or they play music on their speakers. But when someone sits down and closes their eyes, I know they understood." Both agree that the biggest problem is the lack of support from the district. "There are no permits, no stages. We are on our own," says Jairo, who adds that the mayor's office has not offered them formal spaces to play.
A fact few know: in 2024, a group of street musicians from the Center tried to form an association to manage schedules and avoid conflicts with merchants. The project fell through due to lack of interest from the local administration. "We keep going. This doesn't stop," says Don Ramiro.
Local Tips for Sound Collectors
- Bring a portable recorder: Cell phones compress the audio. A handheld recorder (like a Zoom H1) captures the nuances of the accordion or drum. Ask before recording.
- Get up early: The most authentic musicians play in the morning, before the heat and bustle of tourists. Don Ramiro is there at 9:00 a.m. sharp.
- Look for Wednesdays: That day there is less movement in the Center, and musicians usually have more time to chat. La Negra del Tambor sometimes improvises informal workshops if there is interest.
- Don't buy pirated CDs: Some vendors offer CDs with "traditional music" that are generic recordings. Support street musicians directly by buying their music if they have it recorded (few do, but Don Ramiro sells homemade copies for $10,000 COP).
- Respect the silence: Between songs, the musicians rest. Don't shout requests at them while they are tuning. Wait for them to look at you or greet you.
Call to Action: Listen to the Exclusive Playlist
We have compiled a digital playlist with field recordings of Don Ramiro, La Negra del Tambor, and the gaita duo. It includes ambient sounds from the Center (Cathedral bells, market vendor calls) and three complete songs. To access it, visit malokal.com/sonidos-centro and save the points on your Google Maps. That way, when you walk through the Center, you will know exactly where to find these sounds that you won't hear on TikTok.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I join in and play with the street musicians?
It depends. Don Ramiro does not allow anyone to play his accordion, but if you bring your own instrument (a guitar, a flute) and ask permission, he sometimes lets you accompany him on a song. La Negra del Tambor is more open: if you know how to keep the rhythm, she will lend you a small drum. Jairo does not allow anyone to play his gaita, but his son sometimes teaches how to scrape the guacharaca for a tip of $5,000 COP.
Is there a special day to listen to street music in the Center?
Yes. On Saturday mornings (from 8:00 to 11:00 a.m.) there is a spontaneous gathering of musicians at Plaza de Bolívar, where multi-instrument jam sessions sometimes form. On Sundays there is less movement because many musicians attend mass or rest. On Friday afternoons, Parque de los Novios fills with emerging groups, but they are not always traditional.
How do I know if a street musician is authentic or just a "performance" for tourists?
One sign is the repertoire. If they play current hits (reggaeton, pop in English) or use speakers and pre-recorded tracks, they are probably not part of the traditional scene. Authentic musicians use acoustic instruments, have their own style, and do not repeat the exact same song every hour. Also, they usually have a story to tell if you ask respectfully. Don Ramiro, for example, can tell you about the first time he played in the Plaza in 1978.