Historical and contextual introduction
In the barrio Bolívar of Santa Marta, the sun beats down hard most of the year. Temperatures hover around 30°C with a heat index that rises several degrees, and water is scarce in the dry season. However, walking through its narrow streets, between colorful houses and facades with grilles, you discover something that contrasts with the urban landscape: inner courtyards that are true green lungs. They are not ornamental magazine gardens, but living, productive gardens, where residents have learned to tame the heat through ingenuity and tradition.
This neighborhood, founded in the mid-20th century as a working-class sector, has seen how its inhabitants, many of them migrants from the Caribbean region and the interior of the country, brought seeds and cultivation knowledge with them. What started as a hobby or a need to save on buying vegetables became a silent network of ecological resistance. Today, in July 2026, the patios of Bolívar are an example of how tropical permaculture can flourish in the middle of concrete, without relying on chemicals or expensive irrigation systems.
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The secret is in the shade. While many tourists and locals think that in Santa Marta you can only grow crops in the Sierra Nevada or on distant farms, the residents of Bolívar prove otherwise. Their patios, often only 10 or 15 square meters, are designed to take advantage of every drop of water and every ray of sunlight filtered by climbing vines. It is not uncommon to see a soursop tree growing next to a recycled water tank, or a basil crop surviving thanks to homemade gutters that collect rainwater.
This article is for you, samario at heart or curious visitor, who wants to understand how this micro-green revolution works. There are no complicated theories here, but rather the practices of neighbors who have turned necessity into virtue. If you have a patio in Bolívar, or in any other hot neighborhood in the city, this content will help you start your own garden.
What to do in Los patios de Bolívar
Visiting the barrio Bolívar is not like going to a museum or a theme park. Here the experience is more intimate and participatory. The first thing you will notice when walking along Calle 17 or Carrera 9 is that many houses have their doors open during the day, and from the sidewalk you can see the patios. It is not a lack of privacy, it is a culture of open doors where neighbors greet each other and share what they have.
If you are a landscape architect or design student, I recommend taking a walking tour between 7:00 a.m. and 10:00 a.m., when the sun is not yet strong. Look at the roofs: many have gutters made from recycled PVC pipes or even plastic bottles cut in half. Rainwater is stored in 200-liter tanks that were once used for oil or chemicals, but are now clean and painted green to blend in with the plants.
For urban ecologists, the perfect plan is to contact a neighbor who participates in the seed exchange network. There is no fixed schedule or central location, but on Sunday mornings, at the corner store on Carrera 8 with Calle 18, a group of ladies usually gathers to exchange lemongrass cuttings, chili seeds, and even soursop seedlings. It is an informal market, without signs, but with a warmth not found in supermarkets.
If you are a tourist and want an authentic experience, you can ask at the neighborhood's Casa de la Cultura (located on Calle 19 with Carrera 7) if there is an open urban gardening workshop. Sometimes, the neighbors themselves give free talks on how to make germinators with plastic bottles, a technique seen in every patio. Do not expect anything luxurious: the value lies in the artisanal and in what is learned through trial and error.
Where to eat or drink
The barrio Bolívar is not a gastronomic area like the Historic Center or the Zona Rosa, but it has its hidden gems. After walking among the patios, hunger strikes, and the best thing is to eat something that comes from those same gardens. Although there are no formal restaurants with printed menus, several houses open their doors on weekends to sell typical dishes prepared with ingredients from the patio.
A recommended place is the house of Señora Carmen, at Carrera 9 # 17-25. She cooks from 11:00 a.m. until the food runs out. Her specialty is rice with coconut and fried fish, but what makes her unique is that she uses lemongrass and basil from her own patio for seasoning. The dish costs around $15,000 COP (reference prices from July 2026). There is no menu, you just ask what she has and she tells you. If you arrive early, you can ask for a natural soursop juice, also from her tree.
For something refreshing to drink, Don Miguel's store on Calle 18 with Carrera 8 sells panela water with lemon and ginger, for $2,000 COP for a large glass. Don Miguel grows the ginger in recycled pots at the entrance of his house. It is a perfect example of how the patio not only provides food but also extra income. If you prefer something sweeter, try the starfruit juice, which some neighbors have in their patios and sell in recycled glass bottles.
A tip: do not expect to find gourmet food or dishes with fancy names. Here you eat what is grown, and that changes according to the season. In July, for example, mangoes and plantains are abundant, so it is common to see patacones with hogao made with patio tomatoes. If you want to try something unique, look for "sudado de pescado con albahaca" (fish stew with basil), a dish only found in two or three houses in the neighborhood. Ask the neighbors, they will guide you.
How to get there and transportation
Getting to the barrio Bolívar is easy if you are in Santa Marta. From the Historic Center, you can take a city bus that says "Bolívar" or "Mamatoco" on the sign. The most common route is the one that goes along Avenida del Ferrocarril and then goes up Carrera 7. The fare is $2,500 COP (prices from July 2026). The trip takes about 15 minutes, depending on traffic.
If you are coming from el Rodadero or from Bello Horizonte, the best thing is to take a bus to the Center and then transfer. Another option is to use a mototaxi, which will drop you off at the door of any house for $5,000 COP. The mototaxi drivers know the neighborhood well and can give you directions if you tell them you are going to see the patios. However, negotiate the price before getting on.
For those who prefer to walk, the barrio Bolívar is about a 20-minute walk from Parque de los Novios, going up Carrera 5. The path is uphill, but it is worth it because you see how the urban landscape changes: from modern buildings to low houses with visible patios. If you come by private car, keep in mind that the streets are narrow and there is little parking. It is best to leave the car on Avenida del Ferrocarril and walk.
A practical tip: the neighborhood does not have a TransMilenio station or any mass transit system, but bus service is frequent until 8:00 p.m. After that time, you have to resort to taxis or mototaxis. If you plan to stay late at a workshop or seed exchange meeting, coordinate with a neighbor to recommend a reliable taxi.
Local tips
Here are tips that only a neighbor from barrio Bolívar would give you, based on years of trial and error with the climate and soil of Santa Marta.
- Rainwater is gold. Do not wait for winter to install gutters. Use 3-liter plastic bottles cut in half as temporary gutters. Tie them with wire to the edges of the roof and direct them to a bucket. It is ugly, but it works while you get something more permanent.
- Shade is your best ally. In Bolívar, the midday sun burns any plant that is not used to it. Plant climbing vines like "cundeamor" or "campanita" on walls facing south and west. They will create a microclimate that protects more delicate plants, like lettuce or cilantro.
- Do not use chemicals. Neighbors have learned that commercial insecticides also kill bees and beneficial insects. Instead, they prepare a homemade repellent with garlic, onion, and hot chili, all ground and mixed with water. It is sprayed every three days and keeps pests away without harming the patio ecosystem.
- Seed exchange is sacred. If a neighbor gives you a seed, return the favor with a different one. The informal network in Bolívar works on trust. There is no registry or list, but if you do not share, you are left out of the circuit. Always carry a small bag with seeds from your home or region to exchange.
- The plantain is the king of the patio. It grows fast, provides shade, and its leaves are used to wrap food. In Bolívar, almost every patio has at least one plantain plant. If you have space, plant one in the sunniest corner. In six months you will have bunches.
- Do not forget recycled pots. Old tires, paint buckets, and even fabric softener containers become planters. Drill holes in the bottom for drainage and paint them in cheerful colors. In Bolívar, the aesthetics of the patio are as important as the production.
How to make a germinator with plastic bottles (minimal tutorial)
I first saw this technique in Doña Rosa's patio, at Carrera 8 # 18-30. She uses 2-liter soda bottles to germinate chili and basil seeds. It is so simple that anyone can do it at home, even if you have no gardening experience.
- A 2-liter plastic bottle (clean and dry)
- Scissors or a knife
- Black soil or seed-starting mix (available at any nursery in Santa Marta for $5,000 COP per kilo)
- Chili, basil, or lemongrass seeds (you can ask for them at the neighborhood exchange)
- Water
Steps:
- Cut the bottle in half, about 10 centimeters from the base. The bottom part will be the container for the soil, and the top part (with the cap) will serve as a dome or mini-greenhouse.
- Make three small holes in the base of the bottle (the bottom part) for drainage. If you do not do this, the roots will rot.
- Fill the base with soil up to 3 centimeters from the edge. Moisten the soil with a little water, but do not soak it.
- Place the seeds on the soil, spaced 2 centimeters apart. Cover them with a thin layer of soil (1 centimeter).
- Cover the germinator with the top part of the bottle, like a bell. Leave the cap slightly loose to allow air in. This creates a humid and warm environment that speeds up germination.
- Place the germinator in a spot that receives indirect sunlight, like near a window or under the shade of a tree. In Santa Marta, avoid direct sun from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., as it would cook the seeds.
- Check every two days. If the soil is dry, spray a little water with a mister. In 7 to 10 days you will see the first sprouts.
When the seedlings have 4 true leaves (the ones that appear after the first two), you can transplant them to a larger pot or directly into the patio. This is the method used by the neighbors of Bolívar to ensure the plants grow strong before facing the heat of the ground.
Frequently asked questions
What are the easiest plants to grow in a patio de Bolívar?
The five essential plants are: lemongrass, basil, chili, soursop, and plantain. Lemongrass grows like a weed and requires almost no water. Basil repels mosquitoes and grows well in small pots. Chili is resistant to the sun and produces all year round if pruned. Soursop bears fruit in 2 years and its shade is perfect for other plants. Plantain is the most rewarding: with sun and water every three days, it gives you bunches in months.
How do I get seeds or seedlings to start my garden?
The best way is through the seed exchange network of barrio Bolívar. There is no formal organization, but you can go on Sunday mornings to the store on Carrera 8 with Calle 18, where neighbors gather to exchange cuttings and seeds. You can also ask at the neighborhood's Casa de la Cultura, or simply knock on the door of a house with a visible patio and ask. The people of Santa Marta are friendly and will usually give you a twig or a seed if you explain you want to learn.
Is it necessary to use chemicals for plants to grow in the heat of Santa Marta?
No, not at all. The neighbors of Bolívar have shown that you can grow without chemicals. They use organic fertilizer made from fruit peels and kitchen scraps, and control pests with homemade repellents made of garlic and chili. The heat is not the problem, but rather the lack of shade and poor water management. With gutters to collect rainwater and climbing vines to provide shade, any tropical plant grows without the need for synthetic fertilizers.
If you have a patio in Bolívar, join the collaborative garden map with #PatioBolívarSM. The idea is that together we document these green spaces that are changing the face of the neighborhood. It does not matter if your patio is small or if you are just starting out: every germinator counts. Share a photo of your garden on social media with that hashtag and tag Malokal so other neighbors can find you. This way, the exchange network grows and the heat is beaten with more shade and more fresh food.