Introduction: The Sound You Didn't Expect in Bello Horizonte
Between the noise of mototaxis and the smell of fried food on Calle 30, there is a workshop that seems from another era. If you walk through Bello Horizonte, Santa Marta, and stop in front of the blue building —the one with the peeling facade and a somewhat blurry sign—, you will hear something you don't expect: the dry, sweet thud of wood against leather, the deep hum of a chonta marimba. Here, for 22 years, Don Ramiro has been bringing these instruments to life, and he does it without fuss, like someone guarding a secret only the neighborhood knows.
It is not a touristy workshop with English signs or hourly guided tours. It is the patio of a house where sawdust flies, coffee is always hot, and currulao plays until the sun goes down. If you are a musician, a music lover, or simply a seeker of authentic experiences, this place is one of those that changes how you see the city. In May 2026, the workshop remains the same refuge of wood and tradition.
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How to Get to the Workshop: A Guide to Not Getting Lost
Bello Horizonte is not the fanciest neighborhood in Santa Marta, but it has its own rhythm. Don Ramiro's workshop is on Calle 30, between carreras 18 and 19. The foolproof landmark is the three-story blue building that looks like a faded Lego block. Right in front, in a low house with a green metal door, is the workshop. There is no big sign, just a drawing of a marimba scratched on the wall with silver spray paint.
If you come from downtown, take a bus that says "Bello Horizonte" or "Mamatoco" and ask to get off at the corner of Calle 30 and the neighborhood church. From there, it is three blocks north. By mototaxi, say "in front of the blue building, on Calle 30" and the driver will drop you at the door. There is no precise Waze for this spot; the exact address does not appear on Google Maps, but the neighbors will point you there without issue.
The schedule is relaxed: Don Ramiro is open Monday to Saturday, from 9 in the morning until about 6 in the evening, but if you arrive earlier or later, you might still find him, because he lives next door. It is best to call ahead at the number he posts on the door —a cell phone written with a marker— or ask at the corner store if "Don Ramiro is at the workshop."
Don Ramiro: The Last Marimba Luthier in the Neighborhood
Don Ramiro does not call himself a luthier, even though that is what he is. He says he is a "carpenter of music" and laughs with a roar that echoes in the workshop. He is 67 years old, has calloused hands, and a memory that lights up when he talks about the marimba. He came to Santa Marta from Tumaco in the 80s, fleeing violence, and brought in his head the sound of the marimbas from his childhood. He set up the workshop in his house's patio, and since then he has built more than 300 instruments.
What makes Don Ramiro special is not just his technique, but that he is one of the few who still works with chonta —an endemic palm from the Pacific— in an artisanal way. He brings the wood from the Sierra Nevada, because it does not grow easily on the Atlantic coast. "Each marimba is a journey," he says while sanding a board. "The wood tells me how it wants to sound."
His workshop is an organized mess: hanging saws, varnish cans, pieces of deer leather drying in the sun. In a corner, three marimbas in different stages of construction wait their turn. Don Ramiro has no assistants, he works alone, and each piece can take him between two weeks and a month, depending on the details. Local musicians seek him out because they know a marimba of his does not go out of tune easily and withstands the humid heat of Santa Marta without cracking.
Once, a German tourist offered him money to teach him the craft in a week. Don Ramiro told him: "Come, sit down, watch and learn. But the wood is in no hurry." The German stayed three days and left with a miniature marimba that Don Ramiro gave him. He tells that story with pride, because the workshop is not a mass business, it is a place where time is measured in gouge strokes.
The Sound of Wood: Step-by-Step Manufacturing Process
Entering the workshop on a workday is like watching an alchemist in action. Don Ramiro does not use electric machines, except for an old drill that barely works. He does everything by hand, with tools that seem inherited from his grandfather. Here I tell you how the process is, as told by him while he works.
Step 1: The Search for Chonta
Chonta is not bought just anywhere. Don Ramiro has a contact in Minca who brings him fallen palms from the mountain. The wood must be dry, without cracks, and of a specific thickness. "If the chonta is green, the marimba sounds like cardboard," he explains. He lets it rest for at least six months in a corner of the workshop, covered with sacks, so it loses moisture. When he taps it with his knuckles, he knows if it is ready.
Step 2: Cutting the Keys
With a fine-tooth saw, he cuts the wood into rectangular sheets of different lengths. The bass keys measure up to 50 centimeters; the treble ones, barely 15. Each one is tuned individually: Don Ramiro scrapes the underside with a plane and tests the sound by hitting the key against a leather surface. His ear is his only tuner. "It has to sing, not screech," he says, and laughs when a key sounds too high. "This one went up, it needs a sawdust diet."
Step 3: The Frame and Resonators
He makes the marimba frame with cedar, a light wood that does not dull the sound. Under each key, he places a guadua resonator, cut to the exact size to amplify the tone. The resonators are like small tubes hanging in a row, and Don Ramiro adjusts them with beeswax to seal the joints. "The wax is what gives it that round sound, like a distant drum," he explains.
Step 4: The Leather and the Final Touch
He covers the mallets (the sticks for playing) with raw deer leather, which he buys from a hunter in the Sierra. The leather must be sun-cured, but without losing flexibility. Don Ramiro cuts it into thin strips and wraps it around the wooden tips. "The leather is what kisses the key," he says with a mischievous smile. "If it is too hard, the marimba sounds like stone."
The complete process, from wood to finished marimba, can take a month. Don Ramiro makes no more than two a month, and he tests each one for days before delivering it. "I don't like the customer having to return it. A marimba is like a child, you have to raise it well."
Rehearsal Nights: When the Neighborhood Sounds Like Currulao
On Thursday nights, the workshop transforms. Don Ramiro moves the work tables, clears the floor, and takes the marimbas out to the patio. His friends arrive: two percussionists from the neighborhood, a singer who works at the market, and a couple of young people learning to play. There are no microphones or amplifiers. Just the wood, the leather, and the voices.
The currulao that plays there is not the one from tourist festivals. It is the one played in the towns of the Pacific, with improvised verses and a rhythm that grabs your feet. Don Ramiro sits in a plastic chair, picks up the mallets, and starts marking the beat. Neighbors peek out of windows, some sit on the sidewalk to listen. "There is no bad noise here, it is the noise of culture," says Doña Lilia, the neighbor next door, who comes down with a thermos of coffee for the musicians.
Rehearsal nights have no fixed schedule. Sometimes they start at 7 and end at 10; other times they stretch until midnight if the energy is good. There is no guest list, but if you arrive with respect and a desire to listen, Don Ramiro offers you a chair. "Currulao is not for watching, it is for feeling," he says as his hands fly over the keys. It is an experience that cannot be paid for with money, but it leaves a mark on the soul.
As of May 2026, rehearsal nights remain the heart of the workshop. If you want to experience them, it is best to ask on the same Thursday afternoon, because sometimes Don Ramiro cancels them if he is finishing an urgent order. But if you are lucky, you will find a neighborhood that sounds like living tradition.
Where to Buy a Marimba or Learn to Play It
If after listening to Don Ramiro you feel like taking a marimba home, you have options. The workshop sells complete instruments, from concert marimbas (with 25 keys, from 1,200,000 COP) to smaller 12-key versions (around 450,000 COP). He also makes miniature marimbas, perfect for decoration or gifts, for about 80,000 COP. These are reference prices from May 2026, subject to change depending on available wood.
Buying a marimba is not like buying a souvenir. Don Ramiro will ask you what you want it for, if you know how to play or if you plan to learn. If you don't know, he offers a basic four-session course (Saturday mornings, 50,000 COP each) where he teaches you the fundamental strokes of currulao and how to care for the instrument. "The marimba is not an ornament, it is a friend that needs affection," he says.
If you don't want to buy, you can order one made to your measure. Don Ramiro takes measurements of your height and hand strength to adjust the spacing of the keys. "Each musician has their hand, and the marimba has to adapt to it," he explains. The delivery time is three to four weeks, and you can go see the process whenever you want.
You can also bring your own marimba for repair or tuning. Don Ramiro charges from 50,000 COP for a complete tuning, and he himself tells you if it is worth it or if it is better to make a new one. "Sometimes the wood can't take anymore, and you have to retire it with honors," he says with a tone that mixes humor and respect.
How to Get to and Transportation in the Bello Horizonte Neighborhood
Bello Horizonte is north of Santa Marta, about 15 minutes by bus from downtown. The easiest way to get there is from the Transport Terminal or from Avenida del Río. Look for buses with a "Bello Horizonte" or "Mamatoco" sign, which pass every 10 minutes. The fare is 2,200 COP (reference price from May 2026).
By mototaxi, from any point in the city, the trip costs between 5,000 and 8,000 COP, depending on the distance. Say "to Calle 30 with the blue building" and the driver will drop you at the workshop door. If you come by private car, you can park on the street without issue, but watch out for potholes in the road after the rains.
For tourists coming from other cities, the best option is to take a taxi from Simón Bolívar Airport to the neighborhood (about 25,000 COP, negotiating). You can also use transportation apps, but sometimes they don't reach exactly Calle 30; it is better to set the destination as "Iglesia de Bello Horizonte" and walk the three blocks to the blue building.
Local Tips to Make the Most of Your Visit
- Arrive early. Don Ramiro is more talkative in the morning, before the heat sets in. If you arrive after 11, he gets to work in silence and it is harder for him to tell stories.
- Bring cash. The workshop does not have a card machine or accept transfers. Prices are in Colombian pesos and it is better to pay in small bills.
- Don't be in a hurry. A visit to the workshop can last 20 minutes or two hours, depending on how the conversation flows. Don Ramiro does not time visits, but if you see he is focused on delicate work, wait for him to finish before asking.
- Respect the space. The workshop is his home and workplace. Do not touch the tools or marimbas without asking. If you want to try a key, ask for permission and he will hand you a mallet.
- Combine with a walk around the neighborhood. Bello Horizonte has a main square with a pretty church and food stalls. Try a zapote juice on the corner or a patacón con suero, which are specialties of the neighborhood ladies.
- If you go to rehearsal nights, bring something to share. Don Ramiro offers coffee, but if you arrive with a pack of cookies or a soda, you will win his heart and that of the musicians.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I visit the workshop without an appointment?
Yes, you can arrive without notice, but keep in mind that Don Ramiro sometimes goes out to look for wood or handles orders outside the workshop. It is best to call the number posted on the workshop door (a cell phone written with a marker) or ask at the corner store. If they don't answer, you can leave a message and come back later.
How much does a marimba made by Don Ramiro cost?
Reference prices from May 2026 range from 450,000 COP for a small 12-key marimba to 1,200,000 COP for a concert one with 25 keys. Miniature marimbas cost around 80,000 COP. These prices may vary depending on the availability of chonta wood and the work time. It is recommended to consult directly with Don Ramiro for updated prices.
Can I learn to play the marimba at the workshop?
Yes, Don Ramiro offers basic classes on Saturday mornings. They are four one-hour sessions, costing 50,000 COP per session. He teaches you the fundamental strokes of currulao, how to tune your ear, and how to care for the instrument. You don't need previous experience, just a willingness to learn and patience.
Does the workshop sell marimbas for shipping to other cities?
Don Ramiro prefers that people go to the workshop to see the instrument before buying it, but if you are outside Santa Marta, you can arrange a shipment. He packs the marimba himself in a wooden box and sends it via a shipping company. The shipping cost is borne by the buyer and is negotiated directly with him. He has no website or social media, so everything is handled by phone or in person.
Is there any other place in Santa Marta where I can listen to live currulao?
In addition to Don Ramiro's workshop, you can find currulao performances at the Casa de la Cultura de Santa Marta, especially during the patron saint festivities in November. There are also local groups that play at Plaza de Bolívar on weekends, but it is not as frequent. Don Ramiro's workshop remains the most authentic and consistent place to hear this rhythm in the neighborhood.
What to Do
Marimba Workshop
Visiting the marimba workshop is a unique experience. Here you will not only learn about the traditional music of the region, but you can also participate in classes where the marimba becomes the heart of local culture. You will hear stories from the masters who have dedicated their lives to this art.
Insider Tip: Ask if there are open sessions for the public where you can play or simply enjoy a performance. This way, you can connect more with the essence of the place.
Parque de los Novios
An excellent place to relax after your visit to the workshop. This park is a meeting point for locals and offers a perfect atmosphere to enjoy a good book or simply watch the comings and goings of people.
Insider Tip: Bring a picnic with some local delights, like arepas or empanadas, and enjoy the gastronomy amidst nature. On weekends, there are often cultural events, so keep an eye on the schedule.
Plaza de Mercado de Santa Marta
A vibrant place where you can find fresh produce and handicrafts. Here, local life unfolds in its fullest expression, and it is the ideal place to try exotic fruits and other flavors of the region.
Insider Tip: Don't hesitate to talk to the vendors. They are a source of knowledge about the products and can recommend typical dishes for you to try during your visit.
Where to Eat or Drink
La Cabaña
This restaurant is famous for its fried fish and delicious patacones. La Cabaña is filled with locals, guaranteeing an authentic experience. Insider Tip: Don't leave without trying their garlic sauce; it is the perfect complement to any seafood dish.
Restaurante El Patio
With a cozy atmosphere and typical dishes of the region, El Patio is ideal for enjoying a good ajiaco. Its location near the marimba workshop makes it perfect for a break after the music. Insider Tip: Ask for the chef's recommendations; they often have daily specials that are a real find.
La Pescadería
A place that combines freshness and flavor. Here you can select the fish you want to eat and they prepare it instantly. Insider Tip: Go early, as the best fish tend to sell out quickly, especially on weekends.