Introduction: The Neighborhood as a Palimpsest of Historical Layers
If you walk through Bello Horizonte today, with its modern buildings, specialty coffee shops, and the hustle and bustle of motorcycles and cars, it's easy to forget that beneath the asphalt and concrete lie entire layers of Samaria history. This neighborhood, one of the most emblematic in Santa Marta, wasn't always the commercial and residential hub you see now. Its streets hold secrets from when the city barely stretched beyond the Historic Center, of families who built houses of bahareque and clay tiles, and of a train that no longer exists but left its mark on the urban layout.
Bello Horizonte was born as a natural extension of the city at the beginning of the 20th century, when Santa Marta began to grow southward, away from the port and the Cathedral. At that time, wealthy families sought quieter lands, with a view of the sea and near the Sierra Nevada. The neighborhood was populated slowly, with streets wide for the era and houses surrounded by gardens. Today, in May 2026, that past blends with fast-food joints, mechanic workshops, and residential complexes. But if you know how to read the walls, the facades, and the street names, you can piece together the puzzle of what it once was.
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A curious fact few know: Calle 22 in Bello Horizonte, today a commercial artery full of traffic, was the city limit in the 1940s. On the other side, there were only coconut farms and pastures. The neighborhood's elders still remember when cars were a rarity and children played soccer in the street without danger. That memory is fading, but this emotional map tries to rescue it.
Calle 22: The Commercial Artery That Changed Over Time
Calle 22 is the pulse of Bello Horizonte. From Carrera 1 to Carrera 5, this road has gone from a dirt path to a congested avenue where clothing stores, hardware stores, bakeries, and minute-phone stalls mix. But it wasn't always like this. In the 1950s, Calle 22 was a quiet residential street, with one-story houses, pastel-colored facades, and wooden gates. Families knew each other, and on Sundays they would sit on the sidewalks to catch the breeze.
The change began in the 1970s, when Santa Marta started receiving more tourists and the local economy diversified. Little by little, houses turned into commercial premises. Some original facades still survive, like that of the old Mendoza family house, at Calle 22 with Carrera 4, which is now an optician but retains the moldings of the era. If you look closely, you'll see that many modern metal doors hide high windows and wrought iron grilles that betray their residential origin.
Today, Calle 22 is a hive of activity. You'll find everything from sportswear stores to arepa de huevo stalls. For locals, it's the place for daily shopping. For tourists, it can be an authentic, albeit noisy, experience. The best time to walk it is early in the morning, before 9 a.m., when the sun isn't too strong yet and shopkeepers are opening their doors. That said, watch out for cars: the street is narrow and traffic is heavy.
What to Eat on Calle 22
The gastronomic offering on this street is varied and popular. Some stalls recommended by locals include:
- Panadería El Buen Pan (Calle 22 #3-45): famous for its pandebonos and almojábanas fresh out of the oven. A pandebono costs around $1,500 COP in May 2026. Open Monday to Saturday, 6 a.m. to 8 p.m.
- Arepas Doña Chila (Calle 22 with Carrera 2): a cart that has been selling arepas de huevo and arepas de chócolo for over 20 years. Arepas de huevo are $4,000 COP each. They only serve in the mornings, until 11 a.m.
- Fritanga La Esquina (Calle 22 #2-12): for those looking for something more substantial: chorizo, morcilla, and papa rellena. Prices vary, but a combo plate costs between $12,000 and $18,000 COP.
It is recommended to check hours before visiting, especially on Sundays when some businesses close early.
Carrera 3: The Corridor of the Samaria Elite's Homes
If Calle 22 is the commercial heart, Carrera 3 is the residential soul of Bello Horizonte. This road, which runs parallel to the sea, is where the wealthiest families of Santa Marta built their summer or permanent residences in the mid-20th century. Here lived the owners of the first ice factories, coffee merchants, and local politicians. The houses were large, with inner courtyards, high wooden ceilings, and balconies overlooking the street.
Over time, many of those mansions were demolished to make way for apartment buildings or bank branches. However, some architectural gems remain. One of them is the Casa de la Cultura de Bello Horizonte, at Carrera 3 with Calle 23, a construction from the 1930s that served as the residence of the Díaz Granados family. Today it is a cultural center where painting workshops and community events are held. The facade, with its columns and clay tiles, is a testament to the elegance of the era.
Another must-see is the old Liévano family house, at Carrera 3 #22-15. Although a bit run-down, you can still see the original tiles at the entrance and a plaque dating from 1948. Neighbors say that parties with live orchestras were held there, and the neighborhood children would peek through the railings to see the ladies in long dresses.
Walking along Carrera 3 today is an exercise in contrasts. Modern glass and steel buildings stand next to old houses fighting to survive. The noise of air conditioners competes with the song of birds still nesting in the mango and almond trees that line the road. If you want to take photos, do it early, when the light is soft and the streets are emptier.
Where to Drink on Carrera 3
Carrera 3 also has options for relaxing. Although it's not a nightlife area, there are some quiet spots:
- Café del Parque (Carrera 3 #23-10): a small place with sidewalk tables. They serve Sierra Nevada coffee and natural juices. An American coffee costs $3,500 COP. Open from 7 a.m. to 6 p.m.
- La Terraza de Bello (Carrera 3 #21-50): a bar-restaurant on the second floor of an old house. They have cold beer and typical dishes like arroz con coco and fried fish. Beers are $5,000 COP. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Prices subject to change; check directly.
The Central Park: Meeting Point and Memory
The Bello Horizonte park, located between Calle 22 and Carrera 4, is the heart of the neighborhood. It's not a large park nor does it have sophisticated playgrounds, but it's where neighbors meet, children play soccer, and the elderly sit on concrete benches to chat. In the center there is a gazebo with a centennial ceiba tree, which according to locals, was planted in the 1950s by the neighborhood's founders.
The park has witnessed the transformation of Bello Horizonte. In the 1960s, patron saint festivals were held here, with live music and dancing. In the 80s, it became a meeting point for young people arriving on bicycles. Today, it's a quieter space, although on weekends it fills with families buying ice cream and raspados from the carts parked nearby.
A detail few notice: on one corner of the park, on Calle 22, there is a nearly worn-out metal plaque commemorating the visit of President Alfonso López Pumarejo in 1936. The plaque is rusty and hard to read, but if you crouch down, you can still make out the date. It's a reminder that this neighborhood, so everyday now, was once national news.
If you visit the park, sit for a while and observe. You'll see the neighborhood's life pass before you: the man selling chopped mangoes with salt and lime, the woman walking her dog, the young people taking photos for Instagram. It's a microcosm of Santa Marta.
Urban Transformation: From Residential Neighborhood to Semi-Commercial Zone
Bello Horizonte is not the same as it was 30 years ago. The city has grown, and the neighborhood has adapted. What were once family homes are now commercial premises, workshops, dental clinics, and law offices. This change has brought advantages, such as more services and shopping options, but it has also generated problems: traffic congestion, noise, and loss of residential identity.
A clear example is Calle 21, which used to be a quiet street of houses and is now a thoroughfare for cars looking for shortcuts to the Center. Neighbors complain that it's no longer safe to walk on the sidewalks, often occupied by parked motorcycles. However, there are also efforts to preserve memory. The Bello Horizonte Community Action Board, active since the 1970s, has promoted mural projects on the facades of some abandoned houses, telling the neighborhood's history through art.
Another important change is the arrival of gated residential complexes, such as Edificio Brisas del Mar (Carrera 2 with Calle 24), which have attracted new residents, many of them young professionals or remote-working foreigners. This has revitalized the local economy but has also increased the cost of living. A rental in Bello Horizonte in May 2026 can cost between $1,200,000 and $2,000,000 COP per month for a two-bedroom apartment, depending on condition and location.
For tourists, this mix is interesting. You can find everything from a handicraft store to a chain supermarket, from a colonial house to an apartment building with a gym and pool. Bello Horizonte is a neighborhood in transition, and that makes it authentic.
How to Get There and Transportation
Getting to Bello Horizonte is easy from anywhere in Santa Marta. Here are the main options:
- By city bus: routes that pass along Calle 22 are Line 3 (Centro-Bello Horizonte) and Line 7 (Mercado Público-Bello Horizonte). The fare is $2,300 COP in cash. Buses run every 10-15 minutes during peak hours.
- By taxi or mototaxi: from the Historic Center, a taxi charges between $8,000 and $12,000 COP, depending on traffic. Mototaxis are cheaper, around $5,000 COP, but less safe. It is recommended to agree on the price before getting in.
- Walking: if you are staying in the Center or El Rodadero, you can walk to Bello Horizonte in 20-30 minutes. It's a flat walk, but with strong sun, so bring water and sunscreen.
- By bicycle: increasingly popular. There are public bicycle stations near the central park, although the service can be irregular.
It is recommended to check bus schedules after 8 p.m., as frequency decreases.
Local Tips
Here are some tips from those who live in Bello Horizonte to make your visit more rewarding:
- Get up early for photos: the best light for photographing the old houses is between 6 and 8 a.m. After that, the sun is very strong and shadows are harsh.
- Bring cash: many small businesses, like arepa stalls and fruit stands, don't accept cards. There is an ATM at Calle 22 with Carrera 3, but it sometimes runs out of cash on weekends.
- Respect siesta time: between 12 and 2 p.m., many businesses close and the neighborhood becomes quieter. Don't expect to find everything open during that time.
- Talk to the older neighbors: if you see an elderly man or woman sitting on a park bench, sit down and chat. They'll tell you stories you won't find in any book. Ask for don Rafael, an 85-year-old veteran who lives on Carrera 3 and knows every corner of the neighborhood.
- Watch out for stray dogs: although generally friendly, some can be territorial, especially near abandoned houses. Don't provoke them or feed them without the neighbors' permission.
- Try coconut water: on Calle 22 there are several vendors who cut fresh coconuts. Coconut water costs around $3,000 COP and is perfect for hydrating.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is It Safe to Walk Through Bello Horizonte at Night?
In general, Bello Horizonte is a safe neighborhood during the day and until around 8 or 9 p.m. on main streets like Calle 22 and Carrera 3. After that time, some side streets can be more deserted and dark. It is recommended to use a taxi or mototaxi if you plan to go out late, and avoid displaying valuables. As in any Santa Marta neighborhood, use common sense.
Is There Any Event or Festival in Bello Horizonte During the Year?
Yes, every year in December the Feria de Bello Horizonte is held, organized by the Community Action Board. It includes vallenato music performances, dance contests, food stalls, and a horse parade. There are also activities during Holy Week, such as processions that pass through the central park. Exact dates vary, so check with neighbors or at the Casa de la Cultura before planning your visit.
Where Can I Park My Car in Bello Horizonte?
Street parking can be tricky, especially on Calle 22, where space is limited and there are restricted zones. There is a public parking lot at Carrera 2 with Calle 23, with rates of $3,000 COP per hour or $15,000 COP for the whole day. There are also private parking lots in some apartment buildings, but only for residents. If you come by car, I suggest arriving early to find a good spot.
What to Do
Cafetería La Cosecha
This is an ideal place to enjoy specialty Colombian coffee. La Cosecha not only offers a variety of brewing methods but also promotes the work of coffee growers from the region. Insider Tip: Ask about the coffee tastings they offer on weekends; it's an excellent way to learn about different types of beans and their flavor profiles.
Parque de los Novios
A green space in the middle of the city where cultural events and fairs are organized. It's perfect for a relaxing stroll or a picnic with friends. Insider Tip: On Wednesdays, there are usually live music performances, so it's ideal for enjoying an afternoon with good vibes and local culture.
Restaurante El Mercado
Known for its vibrant atmosphere and a gastronomic proposal that mixes tradition and modernity, it's a meeting point for locals and visitors. Insider Tip: Don't leave without trying their signature dish, fried fish, which is fresh and served with a delicious passion fruit sauce.
How to Get There and Transportation
To get to Bello Horizonte, the most common option is to use a taxi or a private transportation service like Uber, which are quite accessible and will drop you off directly at your destination. If you prefer a more economical option, public transportation in Santa Marta includes buses that go to different points in the city, although it can be a bit more complicated if you are not familiar with the routes.
The distance from downtown Santa Marta to Bello Horizonte is approximately 10 minutes by car, but traffic can vary, especially during peak hours. Plan your trip with time if you have commitments.
Below are some reference points and tips to facilitate your arrival:
Public Transportation: Santa Marta Bus
Buses heading to Bello Horizonte are frequent, but you may have to wait a bit, especially in the afternoon. Insider Tip: Ask locals about specific routes, as stop names can vary and are not always clearly marked.
Taxis and Private Transportation Services
Taxis in Santa Marta are easily recognizable and can be hailed on the street or called by phone. Insider Tip: Make sure to agree on the price before starting the trip, as some taxis don't use a meter. You can also use apps like Didi or Uber for greater convenience and safety.