Introduction: The Natural Viewpoint Few Know About
Most people who arrive at Bello Horizonte stay on the beach, at the restaurants on Carrera 5, or in the buildings facing the sea. But if you walk a few blocks east, where the pavement turns into a dirt track and houses climb up the hillside, there is a hill that offers one of the most complete views of Santa Marta. It is not a tourist viewpoint with a ticket booth or a cocktail bar. It is a path of dirt, stones, and weeds that goes up through working-class homes, stray dogs, and the sound of roosters. From the top, the entire city spreads out like a map: the bay, the historic center, the Sierra Nevada in the background, and the stark contrast between luxury buildings and the zinc roofs of the humbler neighborhoods. This guide is to encourage you to make the climb, know where to go, and understand why it is worth waking up early or waiting for sunset up there.
How to Get There: Exact Walking Route from Carrera 5
The clearest starting point is the intersection of Carrera 5 and Calle 32, right where the formal restaurant zone ends and the residential neighborhood begins. From there, walk east (away from the sea) along Calle 32, which soon becomes an inclined road. After about three blocks, the asphalt ends and a dirt track appears, zigzagging up between houses of bare brick and block. There are no signs, but the path is obvious: follow the route used by mototaxis and locals to go up and down. In total, from Carrera 5 to the highest point of the hill, it takes about 25 to 35 minutes walking at a leisurely pace.
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You don't need to be a hiking expert, but you should wear closed-toe shoes and bring water. The slope is steep in some sections, and after rain the mud can be treacherous. If you go by motorcycle or car, only vehicles with good ground clearance can get to a certain point; it is best to leave your transport below and walk up. The lower part of the neighborhood is called Bello Horizonte, but the upper part of the hill is known as El Progreso or simply "the hill." The locals are friendly, but don't expect to find tourists; this is a local's route.
Recommended Stop: The Corner Store
Halfway up, at the curve where the dirt track splits in two, there is a neighborhood store with no fixed name and a red awning. There you can buy a bag of water, a juice in a bag, or a pack of cookies. The owners know everyone and can tell you if the path ahead is clear. It is a good place to catch your breath and listen to the sounds of life on the hill: reggaeton at medium volume, kids playing soccer in the street, the thumping of washing machines.
What You See: The Contrast Between the Neighborhood, the City, and the Bay
From the top of the hill, the view is 180 degrees. To the west, the Caribbean Sea opens up with the Bay of Santa Marta and, beyond it, the silhouette of the Sierra Nevada if the day is clear. To the south, the historic center with its red roofs and the Cathedral peeking out. To the north, the buildings of Bello Horizonte and El Rodadero, like a row of white blocks stuck to the coast. And right below, in the foreground, the neighborhood itself: dirt alleys, concrete stairs, satellite dishes, clothes hanging in the yards. This mix is what makes the photo unique: tourist luxury coexisting just a few blocks away with self-built homes and everyday life.
Urban photographers find a paradise of compositions here. The lines of the streets descending towards the sea, the colors of the facades (lime green, electric blue, burnt orange), the power lines crossing the sky. Early in the morning, the golden light illuminates the city from the east; in the afternoon, the sun sets behind the bay and the silhouettes of the buildings are cut out against the orange. If you have a zoom lens or a cell phone with a good telephoto lens, you can capture details like the boats in the port or people on the beach.
The Antenna Viewpoint
The highest point of the hill is marked by a telecommunications antenna, painted white and red. Around it, there is a small flat area where people from the neighborhood bring out plastic chairs to cool off in the evenings. From there, the view is the best. There are no railings or signs, so be careful at the edge, especially if you have children or pets. It is a quiet place, but not lonely: there is always a neighbor sitting, a dog lying down, or a mototaxi resting.
Best Times for Light and Photography
If photography is your thing, you have two clear windows. The first is between 5:30 and 7:30 in the morning. The light is soft, the shadows are long, and the city is just waking up. You see the smoke from the buses, the first boats leaving the port, and the sky in pastel tones. Plus, it is less hot and there are fewer people on the path. The second window is between 4:30 and 6:00 in the afternoon, just before sunset. The light becomes warm, the facades light up, and the sea reflects the last rays. After 6:00 pm, the sun sets quickly, and in 20 minutes it is already dark.
For those who are not photographers but just want to see the city from above, any time in the morning works, as long as it is not noon (the sun is harsh and there is no shade). On weekends, there is more activity on the hill: kids playing, music, and a more festive atmosphere. During the week, on the other hand, the place is emptier and quieter.
Recommended Gear
- Closed-toe shoes with good grip (sneakers or light boots).
- Water, at least 1 liter per person.
- Sun protection (hat, sunscreen, sunglasses).
- Camera or cell phone with good battery; there is nowhere to charge.
- Insect repellent (in the rainy season there are mosquitoes).
- A small bag for trash; there are no trash cans on the hill.
Safety Tips and Respect for the Hill Community
Climbing the Bello Horizonte hill is not dangerous if you use common sense, but there are unwritten rules you should know. First: do not wear visible jewelry or professional cameras hanging around your neck during the ascent. Keep your gear in a backpack and take it out only when you are at the top. Second: greet people. A "good morning" or "good afternoon" to the neighbors at their doors changes their perception of you. You are not a lost tourist; you are someone who respects the neighborhood. Third: do not take photos of houses or people without asking permission. Many people value their privacy, and a photo without warning can cause discomfort or conflict.
Regarding timing, avoid going up after 7:00 pm if you don't know the route well. Lighting is almost non-existent, and the path becomes difficult to follow. If you want to see the sunset, come down before it gets completely dark. Weekends have more activity and are safer, but also noisier. Take only what you need and don't leave trash. The hill community works hard to keep the space clean, and visitors should help keep it that way.
Fun Fact: The Hill as a Historic Viewpoint
The oldest residents say that before the tall buildings arrived, from this hill you could see the entire coastline without obstacles. During the 1980s, it was the favorite spot for fishermen to watch the sea and anticipate storms. Today, some older adults still go up to sit in the afternoons, a tradition they inherited from their parents. There is no plaque or monument to remember it, but the hill remains a meeting point for those who want to see Santa Marta from another perspective.
Where to Eat or Drink Near the Hill
At the top of the hill, there are no restaurants or food stalls. If you get hungry after coming down, the best thing to do is return to Carrera 5 in Bello Horizonte, where the local establishments are concentrated. There you will find options like La Casa de la Arepa (Carrera 5 #30-12), specializing in arepas stuffed with coastal cheese, shredded beef, or egg, with prices between $8,000 and $15,000 COP. There is also El Punto del Sabor, a daily menu restaurant that serves bandeja paisa, fish stew, and natural juices for about $12,000 COP. If you prefer something quick, there are several fruit shops selling mango, lulo, or corozo juices for $3,000 COP.
For those who want a nice cold beer after the effort, the corner store halfway up the hill sells bottled beer for $4,000 COP. Don't expect a terrace with a view; you sit on a plastic chair or on the edge of the sidewalk, and that has its own charm.
How to Get There by Public Transport
From the center of Santa Marta, take a bus on the Bello Horizonte or Rodadero route that goes up Avenida del Libertador. Get off at the stop at Carrera 5 and Calle 30. The fare is around $2,500 COP (reference price as of May 2026). From El Rodadero, you can take a bus or a taxi that drops you at the same point for about $10,000 COP. By mototaxi, from Carrera 5 to the start of the dirt track, it is approximately $3,000 COP.
If you come by private car, park on Carrera 5 in the authorized areas (ask at the restaurants if you can leave your car in their parking lots for a fee of $5,000 to $10,000 COP). I do not recommend driving up the dirt track if you don't have experience on steep, loose-stone terrain.
Local Tips
- Get up early if you can. The 6:00 am light is the best for photos, and there is almost no one on the hill.
- Bring cash. The corner store and fruit shops don't always accept cards or Nequi.
- Don't go alone if it's your first time. Although it is safe, it is better to go with someone in case you get lost or need help.
- Ask the neighbors. If you have questions about the path, the people in the neighborhood will gladly guide you. Don't be afraid to talk to them.
- Check the weather. If it has rained in the last 24 hours, the mud can make the climb more difficult and slippery.
- Share your photo. Use the hashtag #BelloHorizonteMirador and tag Malokal on Instagram so your image appears in our urban viewpoints gallery.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it safe to climb the Bello Horizonte hill?
Yes, as long as you go during the day, use common sense, and respect the community. It is not a high-crime area, but as in any working-class neighborhood, it is best not to flaunt valuables or walk alone after dark. The neighbors are used to seeing people go up and are friendly if you behave respectfully.
Do I need to pay to access the viewpoint?
No. The hill is a public space with no entrance fee. There are also no tour guides or formal services. Everything is free, but it also means there is no infrastructure like bathrooms, railings, or signage. Bring everything you need and pick up your trash.
Can I go with children or pets?
Yes, but with caution. The terrain is uneven and there are steep sections. Children should always be held by the hand and pets on a leash. Also, there are stray dogs in the neighborhood that can be territorial, so keep your pet close. There is no shade at the top, so bring enough water for everyone.
What is the best time of year to climb?
The dry season, between December and April, is ideal because the path is firm and the sky is clear. From May to November, there are frequent rains that can make the trail slippery, but if you are up for it, mornings after a rain often have dramatic skies and good light for photography.
What to Do
Visit Tayrona National Park
This natural park is a must for nature and adventure lovers. You can enjoy virgin beaches, trails, and impressive biodiversity. You can enter the park from the morning, and it is recommended to bring water, food, and sunscreen, as there are not many options inside. Also, try to visit Cabo San Juan beach, known for its beauty and relaxed atmosphere.
Insider Tip: Arrive early to avoid crowds and make sure to bring cash, as many services inside the park do not accept cards.
Explore the Santa Marta Public Market
This market is the ideal place to experience the daily life of the locals. Here you can find tropical fruits, fresh fish, and typical foods. It is an excellent spot to try "arequipe" or "bocadillo" and enjoy a good Colombian coffee.
Insider Tip: Go hungry and try the bandeja paisa from one of the stalls; it is delicious. Also, interact with the vendors, who often share anecdotes and recommendations about the region.
Cerro de la 20
This hill offers a spectacular panoramic view of Santa Marta, ideal for taking photos at sunset. The walk is short but steep, so make sure to wear comfortable shoes. Upon reaching the top, you can enjoy a quiet atmosphere, away from the hustle and bustle of the city.
Insider Tip: Bring a bottle of water and, if you can, a blanket to sit on and enjoy the scenery while you relax for a while.