The Taganga Fishermen's Procession: An Event of Faith and Nets That Few Tourists See

Origins

If you ask any true-born taganguero what the most important day of the year is, few will say December or Easter. Most will tell you about July, specifically July 16, when the Virgen del Carmen takes to the sea. This procession is not a recent invention for tourists. It is a tradition dating back to the mid-20th century, when the artisanal fishermen of Taganga, mostly descendants of indigenous and Afro-Colombian peoples, asked the Virgen del Carmen —patron saint of drivers in Colombia, but above all of sailors— to protect them from storms and poor fishing seasons.

The town's elders say that before the formal procession existed, fishermen made individual promises. They would go out in their wooden boats, leave lit candles on the shore, and pray the rosary before casting their nets. But it was in the 1950s, when the local parish —now the Church of San José de Taganga— organized the first official maritime procession. Since then, the tradition has not been interrupted, not even during the harshest years of the armed conflict or the pandemic.

What makes this procession unique is that it is not a copy of the Easter processions in Popayán or Mompox. Here, the image of the Virgin does not go on a wooden float carried by devotees, but on a fishing boat decorated with flowers, colored ribbons, and flags. The altar is the Caribbean Sea, and the faithful accompany her in dozens of boats, kayaks, and even surfboards. There is no incense; there is the smell of salt and outboard motor gasoline.

Timeline or historical milestones

1950s: The first procession

The Taganga parish, with support from the National Navy and the Harbor Master's Office, organizes the first maritime departure of the Virgen del Carmen. Only five boats participate. The oldest fishermen remember that there was no storm that day, something rare in the middle of July, and they took it as a divine sign.

1970-1980: Growth and organization

The procession becomes annual. The Mayor's Office of Santa Marta begins to provide logistical support. It is established that the departure will be at 5:00 a.m. from the main beach of Taganga, just before dawn, so that the fishermen do not lose the entire workday. Industrial fishing boats from Santa Marta and even some yachts from tourists who hear about the event join in.

1995: The largest Virgin on the coast

The Taganga community, with donations from local fishermen and merchants, acquires an image of the Virgen del Carmen almost two meters tall, carved in wood. It is the same one that goes out every year. The image is so heavy that at least four men are needed to lift it onto the main boat.

2010: Local recognition

The procession is declared Intangible Cultural Heritage of the District of Santa Marta. This allows the Mayor's Office to allocate resources for maritime safety during the event. However, the event remains deeply local: there are no billboards or sponsorships from big brands.

2020-2021: The pandemic did not stop it

Despite restrictions, the fishermen of Taganga held a symbolic procession. Only three boats, with no public on the beach, but with the Virgin touring the bay. Homemade videos that circulated on WhatsApp show the men singing with face masks. That year, many tagangueros living abroad followed the procession live on Facebook from their homes in Spain or the United States.

June 2026: The most recent edition

This year, the procession took place normally. More than 40 vessels participated. The Mayor's Office reported an attendance of approximately 3,000 people on the beach and the boardwalk, mostly locals and a few tourists who found out through hostel recommendations. Taganga's social media still lacks the massive reach of El Rodadero, which works in favor of those seeking authenticity.

Key figures or events

Don "Pescador" Juan De La Cruz

He is the oldest fisherman in Taganga, 82 years old as of June 2026. He has participated in every procession since 1965. He is the one in charge of choosing which boat will carry the image of the Virgin each year. His criteria are not size or speed, but which family has best kept its promises during the year. Don Juan says the Virgin goes with those who respect her, not with those who have the newest engine.

The Mendoza family

They are in charge of decorating the main boat. They have been doing it for three generations. Doña Carmen Mendoza, 67, decides the colors of the ribbons and flowers. Each year the design changes, but it always includes a white stripe representing sea foam. The family starts preparing the decorations a week in advance, in their home's patio, while neighbors stop by to leave offerings: candles, flowers, or promises written on paper.

Father Miguel Ángel Rueda

Parish priest of San José de Taganga since 2015. He is known for his direct style and for not being afraid to get on a boat. He blesses the vessels before departure and, during the procession, rides on the Virgin's boat reading Gospel passages adapted to the fishing trade. One of his most remembered phrases: "Jesus was also a fisherman, but of men. You catch snapper and mackerel, but you also catch hope when you take care of the sea".

The key event of 1987

That year, an electrical storm surprised the boats as they were returning to the beach. A lightning bolt struck near the Virgin's boat but did not damage the image. The fishermen interpreted it as a miracle. Since then, the procession is not canceled due to bad weather. If there is a storm, they pray harder.

Current status

Today, the Taganga Fishermen's Procession remains an intimate event. Unlike Holy Week in the historic center of Santa Marta, which already has a strong tourist component, here there are no grandstands, organized street food sales, or tour guides with loudspeakers. Most attendees are families from Taganga and nearby neighborhoods like Pescaíto and Gaira. The tourists who arrive are usually backpackers staying in Taganga hostels who find out the night before through word of mouth.

The event begins at 4:30 a.m. on the main beach of Taganga. The fishermen pull their boats to the shore. The women bring flowers, candles, and trays of fruit. At 5:00 a.m., Father Miguel Ángel Rueda blesses the water and the vessels. Then, the image of the Virgin is lifted onto the main boat amid chants of "Virgen del Carmen, queen of the sea, take care of those who will sail in your waters". The procession tours the bay of Taganga, passes by Playa del Muerto, goes around the morro, and returns to the same point. It all lasts approximately two hours.

The most symbolic moment occurs when the flotilla stops in the middle of the bay. The fishermen throw flowers into the water. It is not a decorative gesture. It is an act of reciprocity: they return to the sea what the sea has given them. They also throw coins, not out of greed, but as an offering so that the fishing never runs out. Some tourists, if they have flowers, can join the gesture, as long as they do it in silence and without invading the space of the main boats.

Upon returning to the beach, the image is carried on a litter to the Church of San José de Taganga, where an outdoor mass is held. Afterwards, families share a community breakfast based on fried fish, coconut rice, and patacones. There is no formal food sale; attendees bring their own preparations and share them with whoever is nearby. It is an atmosphere of barter and trust that contrasts with the commercial logic of El Rodadero.

If you want to experience this tradition as a respectful observer, I recommend arriving in Taganga on the afternoon of July 15. Ask at any store or at your hostel's reception for the exact departure time of the procession, as it may vary slightly depending on the tide and weather conditions. Bring white or yellow flowers (never red, because in local tradition red is associated with bad omens at sea). Do not bring speakers or drones. The fishermen are friendly but serious during the procession: it is not a show, it is a fulfilled promise.

If you cannot go in July, there is a smaller procession in December, on December 8, the day of the Immaculate Conception, but it is less striking and fewer boats participate. The real one, the one that moves all of Taganga, is on July 16. You do not need to reserve anything, just wake up early and respect the silence of the sea before dawn.