The Phantom Regatta: The Sailboat Race Only Locals Know About in Santa Marta Bay

What It Is and Context

If you have walked along El Rodadero or the Centro Histórico of Santa Marta on any given Saturday, you have probably seen sailboats silhouetted against the sunset. But if one weekend, without warning, you see between five and eight sailboats leave at the same time from Morro de Gaira, moving in formation towards the northwest, it is not a tourist trip or a Navy rehearsal. You are witnessing the Phantom Regatta.

This sailboat race does not appear on Google Calendar, has no website or public ticketing. It is not organized by a sailing school or the Chamber of Commerce. It was born in the late 80s as a bet between artisanal fishermen from Taganga and Gaira, who challenged each other to see who could reach Isla de Salamanca first with the tide in their favor. What started as a weekend game became an oral tradition passed from captain to captain, with no written rules or acrylic trophies. The prize, to this day, is a dinner at a hidden restaurant in Taganga, paid for by the losers.

As of June 2026, the Phantom Regatta remains one of the best-kept secrets of the Santa Marta Bay. Tourists who have seen it by chance describe it as "an improvised choreography of sails and wind." The locals who participate simply call it "the race." There are no megaphones or judges. Only the sea, the wind, and the word of the captains.

Event Details

Secret Origin: A Bet Between Fishermen in the 80s

According to the oral legend of Taganga, one Saturday in March 1987, two fishermen — Don Toño, from Gaira, and Don Ramiro, from Taganga — were arguing about who had the fastest sailboat. Don Toño claimed his boat, the "Mono García", could leave any launch in the bay behind. Don Ramiro, who had been fishing since he was 12, bet a dinner of fried fish with patacón for the entire crew of the winner. The next day, they set off from Morro de Gaira towards Isla de Salamanca. Don Ramiro won by three minutes. That night, the losers paid for dinner at an improvised campfire on Taganga beach.

The following month, other fishermen wanted to repeat the bet. And the month after that, too. Unintentionally, a tradition was born that has lasted almost 40 years. There is no founding document or photo of the first event. Everything is passed down by word of mouth on the docks of Taganga and in the fishermen's bars of El Rodadero.

The Exact Route: From Morro de Gaira to Isla de Salamanca

The Phantom Regatta has a fixed route, although the date changes each month. The sailboats depart from a point not marked on maps, known locally as the Morro de Gaira (a small rocky elevation in front of Gaira beach, about 2 kilometers south of El Rodadero). From there, they sail in a straight line to the northwest, skirting the Ciénaga Grande de Santa Marta, until they reach the northern shore of the Isla de Salamanca (part of the Vía Parque Isla de Salamanca).

The total distance is approximately 18 nautical miles. Depending on the wind, the sailboats can take between 1 hour and 20 minutes and 2 hours. There are no buoys or starting flags. The start is given by the most veteran captain, who raises an oar and lowers it when the wind is favorable. Participants must stick to the traditional route, but there are no penalties if someone deviates: the sea decides.

Who Participates: Profiles of the Captains and Historic Crews

The Phantom Regatta is not open to the general public. To participate, you must be invited by one of the founding captains or their descendants. The profiles are varied, but they all share a love for traditional sailing and knowledge of the bay.

• Veteran Fisherman Captains: Men and women (yes, there are two female captains) who have been sailing these waters for over 30 years. They know every current, every sandbar, and every wind shift. Example: Doña Carmenza "La Marea", 67 years old, who first sailed at age 9 and has won the regatta 12 times.
• Young Heirs: Grandchildren or children of the founders, who keep the tradition alive. They are usually between 20 and 35 years old, and many are marine biologists or tour guides who use restored wooden sailboats.
• Special Guests: Occasionally, a foreigner who has shown respect for the local culture may be invited. There are no fixed criteria, but it is said that "if you help repair a sailboat on the Taganga dock, you can earn an invitation."

Crews are 3 to 5 people per sailboat. There are no uniforms or sponsored teams. Everyone sails in their fishing clothes, their hat, and their cooler with water and beer.

How to Watch It: Strategic Viewing Points and Variable Dates

The exact date of each regatta is disclosed only 48 hours in advance, through a WhatsApp chain among the captains and some trusted contacts. There is no social media post. If you want to see it, there are three key points:

• Morro de Gaira: The best place to see the start. You get there by walking from Gaira beach (entrance at Carrera 2 with Calle 10). There is no tourist infrastructure, just rocks and sand. Bring water, sunscreen, and a folding chair.
• Taganga Beach: From the northern end of the beach, near the fishermen's dock, you can see the arrival at Isla de Salamanca. The sunset from there is spectacular. There are fried fish restaurants (dishes from $18,000 COP) if you want to wait with something in your stomach.
• Mirador de la Paz: An elevated point on the road that goes up to Minca, with a panoramic view of the entire bay. It is not as close, but it allows you to see the complete route if you have binoculars.

The dates are variable, but they usually fall on Saturdays or Sundays with low tide and stable northeast wind. The most likely months are December to March (dry season) and July to August (strong trade winds). As of June 2026, it is rumored that the next one will be in mid-July, but no one will confirm it until 48 hours before.

Prices and How to Get Tickets

There are no tickets for sale. The Phantom Regatta is not a commercial event. There is no ticketing, no presale, no VIP boxes. If someone offers you a ticket for money, it is a scam.

Watching it from land is completely free. You just need to get to the mentioned viewing points. To participate as a crew member, you need a direct invitation from a captain. There is no official waiting list, but there is a way to sign up to receive the exact date:

• Unofficial Waiting List: Some captains allow interested foreigners and locals to leave their name in a notebook that is at the bar "El Puerto de Taganga" (on the main street of Taganga, half a block from the dock). There is no guarantee they will call you, but if you show genuine interest and respect the tradition, it is possible you will be invited to the next regatta.
• CTA: If you want to receive the exact date of the next regatta (only disclosed 48 hours in advance), sign up in the notebook at "El Puerto de Taganga." Ask for Don Ramiro or any fisherman drinking black coffee at the bar. Say you are there for "the race." They will know.

There is no registration fee. If you are invited to participate, you only need to bring your own food and drink for the journey. The prize for the winner is a dinner paid for by the losers at a hidden restaurant in Taganga: "El Fogón de la Abuela", a place with no sign, capacity for 15 people, that only opens when there is a regatta. There they serve fish stew with coconut rice and patacones, for about $25,000 COP per person. There is no menu, just whatever was caught in the net that morning.

How to Get There

To Morro de Gaira (Starting Point)

• By bus: From the Centro Histórico of Santa Marta, take a bus on the "Rodadero-Gaira" route (cost: $2,200 COP) and get off at the "Gaira Playa" stop. Walk 5 minutes south along Carrera 2 until you reach the rocks.
• By taxi: From any point in Santa Marta, tell the taxi driver "to Morro de Gaira, by the beach." The fare costs between $15,000 and $25,000 COP, depending on your starting point.

Tips for Attendees

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