Night Mountain Biking: The Firefly Route in Vereda de la Tagua

The magic of the phenomenon: Why fireflies take over Tagua

If you've ever seen a field full of synchronized fireflies, you know it feels like a dream. But what happens in Vereda de la Tagua, during the new moon, is on another level. Here it's not just a flash here and there: it's a spectacle of hundreds, sometimes thousands, of bioluminescent insects that activate just after sunset. The reason? The combination of humidity from the Manzanares River, the dense vegetation of the tropical dry forest, and the total absence of artificial light. During the new moon, the darkness is so deep that fireflies have no competition, and their light becomes the only beacon. Unlike other areas of Santa Marta, there are no paved roads or streetlights here, so the show is pure and unfiltered. Local biologists estimate the dominant species is Photinus, which emits a green-yellow flash lasting exactly 0.6 seconds. In June 2026, the optimal window is between the 5th and the 15th, right when the moon is thinnest.

Fun fact: Community guides say that female fireflies, which don't fly, perch on the grass and respond to males with a specific flash pattern. If you manage to stay still and quiet, you can see this "dialogue" of lights at ground level.

Logistical preparation: What you can't miss in your backpack

This is not a walk in the park. The route is technical, at night, and on mountainous terrain. Here's the list of essentials so you don't end up lost or with a nasty fall.

Bike and lights

You need a mountain bike with front or full suspension, preferably with tires of 2.2 inches or more. Conventional lights won't work: here, UV (ultraviolet) front lights are used because, although it sounds like science fiction, fireflies react less to ultraviolet light than to white light. Plus, UV lights make the reflective elements of your clothing shine like a Christmas tree. At the Bike & Trail Santa Marta store (on Carrera 5 with Calle 22), they rent UV light kits for $35,000 COP per night. Bring at least two red flashing rear lights, because in total darkness a car (rare, but they exist) won't see you until you're right on top of it.

Clothing and footwear

Wear real reflective clothing, not just a fluorescent t-shirt. A vest with silver stripes is mandatory. The climate in Tagua is humid and cool after 7 pm, so a lightweight windbreaker jacket will save you. Shoes should be cycling shoes with a stiff sole, because there are sections of loose stone that can make you slip if you wear regular sneakers.

Local community guides

Don't go alone. The Santa Marta Cycling Association (ACSM) organizes guided outings every new moon. They know every curve, every pothole, and most importantly, they know where to stop without crushing fireflies. The main guide, Don Jairo, has lived in Bonda for 40 years and tells stories of how the village was called "The Path of Souls" because people thought the fireflies were lost souls. The outing costs $60,000 COP per person and includes hydration and basic accident insurance.

The secret route: From Bonda to the Manzanares River

The full route is 10 kilometers of technical descent with a positive elevation gain of 350 meters. It starts in the town of Bonda, specifically in the main square in front of the church. They gather there at 5:30 pm to adjust bikes and receive the safety talk. The initial climb is 4 km on a dirt road to the entrance of Vereda de la Tagua. That stretch is the toughest: gradients of 12% in some sections, with loose stones. But once you reach the highest point, the valley viewpoint, the descent is pure adrenaline.

Strategic stop points

• The illuminated valley viewpoint (km 4.5): Here, all bike lights are turned off. From this point, you see the Manzanares River valley completely dark, and within a minute, the first flashes start appearing below. It's the best place for long-exposure photos. Bring a small tripod, because without it, photos will come out blurry.
• The forest of flashes (km 7): A narrow trail surrounded by guadua bamboo and ceiba trees. The fireflies here are so close you can feel the warmth of their light if you're 10 cm away. Don't use flash or white flashlights; you'll ruin everyone's night vision and scare the insects away.
• The river pool (km 10): The end of the descent. There's a natural pool where people swim (the water is cool, around 22°C). It's the return point, where guides offer coffee and panela. If you bring a camera, this is the spot to capture the reflection of fireflies on the water.

Updated costs

Reference prices from June 2026, subject to change. Always verify directly with providers.

Estimated times

• 5:30 pm: Meeting point in Bonda (main square).
• 6:00 pm – 6:45 pm: Ascent to the valley viewpoint.
• 6:45 pm – 7:15 pm: Stop at the viewpoint (fireflies start coming out at dusk).
• 7:15 pm – 8:00 pm: Descent to the forest of flashes.
• 8:00 pm – 8:30 pm: Stop in the forest and photography.
• 8:30 pm – 9:00 pm: Arrival at the river pool, rest, and return in support vehicle (included in the guided outing).

Safety and ethics: Caring for insects and predators

Fireflies are fragile. Do not touch or catch them; their light is part of their mating, and if you stress them, they may stop glowing. Also, in the area there are snakes like the boa constrictor and the false coral (non-venomous, but still startling). Guides carry a stick to move the underbrush before passing. There are also foxes and opossums that come to eat insects, so don't leave food lying around. Golden rule: do not use white flashlights after 6:30 pm. White light disorients fireflies and drives them away. If you need to see something, use your bike's red light or a flashlight with a red filter (available at hardware stores for $8,000 COP).

Practical tips

• Book in advance: ACSM guided outings have a maximum capacity of 10 people and fill up quickly. Call the number on their Facebook page (Asociación de Ciclismo Santa Marta) or ask at Bike & Trail.
• Bring water and snacks: There are no stores along the way. Two liters of water per person and some fruit or energy bars.
• Don't use insect repellent: Chemicals scare away fireflies. Wear long-sleeved clothing and thick pants to avoid mosquitoes.
• Camera ready: Set your camera to manual mode, ISO 1600, aperture f/2.8 or the widest you have, and shutter speed from 15 to 30 seconds. A remote shutter prevents vibrations.
• Exact new moon: Check the lunar calendar. The best night is the day of the new moon and the two following nights. In June

Available options

Guided Night Cycling

Several companies in Santa Marta offer guided tours of Vereda de la Tagua. A notable example is Santa Marta Bike Tours, which specializes in night experiences. Be sure to book in advance, especially during high season, to secure your spot.

Insider Tip: Ask your guide about the best times to see fireflies. During the new moon, the experience is especially magical, as the darkness enhances the glow of these little creatures.

Bike Rental

If you prefer to explore at your own pace, bike rental is an excellent option. Shops like Bike and Go offer competitive rates and a variety of bikes suitable for mountain biking. Make sure to bring a powerful flashlight and safety gear.

Insider Tip: Don't forget to check tire pressure and brake condition before heading out. The route can be challenging, and it's best to be well-prepared.

Local Gastronomic Experience

Before or after your adventure, you can't miss trying the local food. La Casa de la Abuela is a popular spot among cyclists. Their typical dishes, like the local arequipe, are perfect for regaining energy.

Insider Tip: Ask about the daily special, which usually includes fresh local ingredients and is a great way to experience authentic local cuisine.