From Warehouses to Canvases: The Rebirth of Ciudad del Río
If you walk through Ciudad del Río today, among glass buildings and trendy restaurants, it's easy to forget that until the 90s this was an industrial purgatory. Abandoned warehouses, mechanic workshops, and the occasional textile factory. But in 2004, something changed. A group of local artists, tired of art only being seen in exclusive galleries, began painting the exposed brick walls that no one wanted. The first was a mural by Stinkfish on Calle 20, a portrait of a woman with flowers in her hair that, even today in May 2026, remains intact (though a bit faded by the sun). That gesture lit the fuse. Today, Ciudad del Río is the largest urban art museum in Medellín, with over 80 murals within a ten-block radius. It's not a pretty Instagram photo neighborhood: it's a testament to how a community took over public space and turned it into a gallery. There are no guided tours with headphones here; the guide is the neighborhood itself.
What makes this place unique is not just the number of murals, but the story behind each one. While in the city center graffiti is more political (with allusions to the armed conflict), in Ciudad del Río the art is more experimental, more authorial. You'll find everything from abstract pieces that look like they belong in a contemporary art museum to hyper-realistic portraits of neighborhood elders. The secret is that the warehouse owners, instead of complaining, started sponsoring the murals. They gave them a can of paint and permission, and the artists gave them back facades that attracted customers. A barter that worked.
📌 Transparency
This article contains sponsored/affiliate links. We may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.
But be careful: this is not a theme park. The neighborhood is still a place of work. At 7 in the morning, cargo trucks still honk on Calle 20, and welding workshops throw sparks next to a mural by Bastardilla. That mix of the raw and the beautiful is what makes walking here feel real, not like a postcard.
What to Do: Beyond Looking at Walls
Don't come just to take photos. Here's a route that forces you to really get into the neighborhood.
The Route of Essential Murals
There are three murals you can't miss, not because they're famous, but because they mark the evolution of the neighborhood:
- "La niña de las flores" by Stinkfish (Calle 20 # 37-15): The one that started it all. A woman's face with a crown of wildflowers. It's a bit worn, but that gives it character. It's the unofficial icon of Ciudad del Río.
- "El abrazo" by Bastardilla (Calle 21 with Carrera 38): A huge mural (about 15 meters high) showing two people hugging, but with blurred faces, as if they were memories. The artist painted it after the pandemic, and it became a symbol of the need for human contact. If you stand right in front of it, the afternoon light casts shadows that make the figures seem to move.
- "Máquina de sueños" by Ledania (Carrera 37 # 20-25): A psychedelic mural full of gears, flowers, and animals that seem to come from a dream. Ledania is one of the few women leading the urban art movement in Medellín, and this mural is her declaration of principles: art can be an engine of change.
Tip: don't limit yourself to the large murals. The metal doors of the warehouses, when closed, have miniatures by artists like Dex or Mena. They're like Easter eggs: if you don't look for them, you won't see them.
Workshops and Meetings with Artists
Several artists who painted here have their workshops in the neighborhood. Taller La Bodega (Calle 20 # 36-50) is a space where Juan David Jaramillo (who painted the condor mural on Carrera 38) gives classes on Saturdays from 10 to 1. You don't need to be an artist: just show up, ask for a spray can (they cost about $15,000 COP) and paint a piece on a wall they set up for that. It's not a tour, it's a rehearsal. If you do well, they might even let you paint a small mural on a friendly warehouse facade.
Another option: Casa de la Cultura Ciudad del Río (Calle 21 # 37-12) organizes a "Live Muralism" event every two months where national and international artists paint over a weekend. Entry is free and you can see the process in real-time, from the sketch to the last coat of paint. The next edition is in July 2026, but they always post dates on their Instagram.
Galleries That Don't Look Like Galleries
In addition to the street murals, there are spaces that mix art with local commerce. La Tienda del Arte Urbano (Carrera 37 # 20-10) is a shop that sells prints, stickers, and paint cans, but also has a back wall where they change the mural every month. The owner, Carlos, is a former graffiti artist who can tell you the story of each piece he sells. Don't expect gallery prices: prints cost between $30,000 and $80,000 COP.
Where to Eat and Drink: Art for the Stomach
After walking, you'll need to replenish your energy. Ciudad del Río has options ranging from street food to restaurants that look like art galleries.
Fast Food with Personality
- El Mural Burger (Calle 20 # 37-30): A burger joint born inside a warehouse. The walls are covered in graffiti by local artists, and the menu is written on a chalkboard with spray paint. The specialty is the "Burger Stinkfish" (with blue cheese and caramelized onion, $22,000 COP). The owner, Andrés, was an apprentice of Stinkfish and still paints on weekends. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 12pm-10pm.
- Arepas de la 38 (Carrera 38 # 20-08): A cart that has been on the same corner for 15 years. The arepas are filled with chicharrón, hogao, and cheese, and cost $6,000 COP. Don Carlos, who prepares them, has seen the neighborhood born and can tell you what it was like when there were only warehouses and dust. No Instagram, just flavor.
Restaurants with a Gallery Soul
- La Bodega del Arte (Calle 21 # 37-45): A restaurant that looks like a New York loft. The walls are exposed brick and have rotating murals by emerging artists. The food is Colombian fusion: try the "bean risotto with crispy chicharrón" ($38,000 COP). Prices are mid-to-high, but the atmosphere is worth it. Open Monday to Saturday, 12pm-11pm.
- Café de la Esquina (Carrera 37 # 20-30): A small café that roasts its own beans. The owner, Pedro, is a former artist who traded brushes for the coffee machine. Coffee costs $4,500 COP, and if you ask, he'll lend you a marker to draw on the back wall (yes, you can leave your mark). Open 8am to 8pm, every day.
Bars to End the Day
When night falls, the murals are lit with colored lights that the warehouse owners installed on their own. Bar El Muro (Calle 20 # 37-50) is a small place with live music on Fridays (rock and blues, no reggaeton). Beers cost $8,000 COP, and the terrace faces a mural by Dex that looks spectacular at night. Another option: La Terraza de la 21 (Calle 21 # 38-10), a rooftop with a view of several murals. It's not cheap (cocktails from $25,000 COP), but the view of the illuminated murals against the Medellín sky is unique.
How to Get There and Transportation
Ciudad del Río is in the south of Medellín, between the metro stations Poblado and Industriales. Getting there is easy, but moving around the neighborhood has its tricks.
By Metro and on Foot
Get off at Poblado station (Line A). From there, walk 10 minutes west along Calle 20. You'll see the landscape change from residential buildings to warehouses. If you prefer not to walk as much, take a bus on route 300 that goes along Avenida 33 and drops you off at Carrera 38. The fare is $2,900 COP (Cívica card).
By Taxi or App
A taxi from the center costs about $15,000 COP; from El Poblado, about $10,000 COP. Apps like Didi or Uber work well, but during peak hours (6pm-8pm) traffic on Calle 20 gets heavy. Better to walk or use a bicycle from the EnCicla system (free with registration, there's a station at Carrera 37 with Calle 20).
By Private Car
If you come by car, the safest parking lot is Parqueadero Ciudad del Río (Calle 21 # 37-50), which costs $4,000 COP per hour. Don't leave your car on the street: although the neighborhood is safe during the day, at night there is little movement and car thefts are not uncommon. Reference prices from May 2026.
Local Tips: What No One Tells You
- The best time for photos: Between 4pm and 5:30pm. The sunset light hits the murals on Carrera 38 from the side, and the shadows lengthen the figures. Also, at that time the workshops close and there is less truck noise.
- Don't use flash: The murals have layers of paint that reflect natural light. Flash flattens them and makes them opaque. If you want night photos, look for the lights from the warehouses that are on.
- Talk to the security guards: The warehouse caretakers (almost always older men) know who painted each mural and when. Ask them respectfully and they'll tell you stories that aren't on the internet. Sometimes they'll let you into the inner courtyard where there are hidden murals.
- Bring cash: Many street food stalls and workshops don't accept cards. The nearest ATMs are at the Unicentro shopping center (a 15-minute walk away).
- Sunday is the best day: The workshops are closed, traffic is minimal, and the murals are unobstructed. Also, at the Casa de la Cultura they sometimes have art markets on Sundays from 10am to 4pm.
A curious fact that few know: the oldest mural in the neighborhood is not Stinkfish's, but one by Mena at Carrera 36 # 20-50. It's an abstract face he painted in 2002, two years before the neighborhood became "cool." Mena used leftover paint from a car factory, which is why the colors (a metallic blue and an oxide red) are not found in any art store. If you find it, you're looking at a museum piece without knowing it.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is It Safe to Walk Through Ciudad del Río at Night?
It depends. Until 8pm, the main streets (Calle 20 and Carrera 38) have restaurant and bar activity, and it's safe. After that time, the neighborhood empties quickly because the warehouses close. If you're leaving a bar, order a taxi or Didi to the door. I don't recommend walking alone after 9pm, especially on unlit side streets.
Are the Murals Maintained or Erased?
They are maintained, but not forever. Most murals are between 2 and 5 years old. Warehouse owners sometimes repaint them if they get damaged, but others wear down naturally. Stinkfish's, for example, has been retouched twice by the artist himself. If you want to see them in their best condition, come between January and March, when the dry weather prevents rain from deteriorating them.
Can I Paint a Mural If I'm Not an Artist?
Yes, but with conditions. You need to ask permission from the warehouse owner (most are friendly if you explain it's temporary) and use paint that doesn't damage the brick. Taller La Bodega offers spaces for beginners, but if you want to paint on the street, better go early on a Saturday and talk to the artists who are working. Sometimes they'll let you paint a small section if you help them with the rest. Don't do it without permission: local graffiti artists take respect for the space very seriously.
Historical or Contextual Introduction
Ciudad del Río, in Medellín, is a clear example of the urban transformation the city has experienced in recent decades. Until the 90s, this area was predominantly industrial, marked by factories and economic activity centered on production. However, the change in the perception and use of urban space has given way to a new face, where urban art has become the soul of the community.
The arrival of projects like the Parque Biblioteca España and the revitalization of public spaces have allowed local artists to find in the city's walls a form of expression that reflects the history, culture, and challenges of the community. Today, the murals not only beautify the environment but also tell stories that resonate with the identity of the inhabitants.
The murals of Ciudad del Río are witnesses to the resilience of a population that has known how to adapt and reinvent itself. Each work is a fragment of Medellín's narrative, inviting visitors to explore beyond the surface. To make the most of your tour, here are some practical tips: