Castilla: Much More Than a Working-Class Neighborhood
If you walk along Calle 95 with Carrera 68 on any given Saturday, you probably wouldn't notice that behind those sheet metal doors and colorful bars there is a creative pulse that never stops. Castilla, that neighborhood in northwestern Medellín that many know for the transport terminal or the soccer field, is also the epicenter of a silent economy: the clandestine fashion and design workshops. It's not a secret for locals, but it's a gem few tourists know about. Here I'll tell you about the scene, where to find unique pieces, and why April 2026 is a good time to dive into this world.
The neighborhood grew alongside textile and metalworking factories during the 20th century. When those industries left or downsized, the patios of the houses turned into workshops. Today, Castilla has over 200 family workshops producing everything from woven clothing to accessories made from recycled leather. Most operate without a storefront, a sign, or an Instagram account. Only word of mouth and trusted contacts.
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What to Do in the Workshops of Castilla
Don't expect a mall or an elegant showroom. The experience here is different: entering a house, greeting the lady sewing in the living room, smelling the glue from handmade shoes, and seeing a Singer sewing machine from the 1950s still working like the first day. What you'll find are pieces with history, made by hands that know the trade passed down through generations.
The 'Hilos de Altamira' Workshop
One of the best-known among those in the know is 'Hilos de Altamira', a sewing workshop that has been operating for 30 years in a house on Calle 94A. Doña Marta, the owner, learned the trade from her mother and now works with her two daughters. They make knitwear, but the specialty is hand-embroidered pieces that mimic regional flowers. They have no website or digital catalog. If you want to see their work, you have to go in person. Reference prices as of April 2026 are around $45,000 COP for an embroidered blouse and $120,000 COP for a complete dress. However, everything is made to order with one week's notice.
Fun fact: Doña Marta keeps her mother's original patterns in a trunk, made from newspaper cardboard from 1985. She says she still uses some designs because "fashion comes back every 20 years."
Hand Loom Weaving Workshops
On Carrera 70 with Calle 96, there are a handful of workshops that work with hand looms. There are few, because the technique is endangered. Doña Lilia, 68, is one of the last weavers using a pedal loom. She makes ruanas, blankets, and ponchos with sheep's wool she buys at the Belén market. Her pieces have no label, but are recognizable by the irregular thickness of the yarn and the natural colors (beige, brown, gray). A ruana can cost between $80,000 and $150,000 COP. If you want one, it's best to call ahead using a number a neighbor gives you, because she doesn't see just anyone.
Leather Goods and Recycled Leather Workshops
On Calle 97 with Carrera 66, there is a workshop called 'Cuero de la 70' (not to be confused with the store in the zona rosa). They work with leather scraps bought from factories in Itagüí. They make wallets, belts, and backpacks. The interesting thing is that each piece is unique because they use remnants of different colors. Prices range from $25,000 COP for a wallet to $180,000 COP for a large backpack. They have no fixed hours, but are usually open Monday to Friday from 9am to 5pm. They don't accept credit cards, only cash or bank transfer.
Artisanal Screen Printing Workshops
On Carrera 68B with Calle 93, there is a workshop that prints t-shirts with original designs by local artists. It's called 'Estampa Castilla' and operates in the patio of a house. They make everything from t-shirts with phrases from Paisa popular culture to abstract designs. The owner, Carlos, uses eco-friendly inks and recycled paper for proofs. A t-shirt costs $35,000 COP. If you bring your own garment, they'll print it for $15,000 COP. The tip: they only serve on Saturdays from 10am to 2pm.
Where to Eat or Drink Near the Workshops
After touring workshops, hunger strikes. Castilla has simple but tasty options, designed for those who work in the area.
La Fonda de la 95
On Calle 95 with Carrera 69, a traditional eatery that sells bandeja paisa from $18,000 COP. The owner, Don Jairo, is known for always having a pot of hot beans and a cup of coffee ready. They are open Monday to Saturday from 7am to 8pm. The place is small, but the homey smell is unmistakable.
Panadería El Progreso
On Carrera 68 with Calle 94, a bakery that has been around for 40 years. The chicken empanadas and buñuelos are the most popular. An empanada costs $2,500 COP. They also sell pandebonos and arepas. They are open every day from 6am to 9pm. Ideal for a quick breakfast before starting the tour.
The Corner Store (No Fixed Name)
On Carrera 66 with Calle 97, there is a neighborhood store that sells ice-cold beer and mortadella sandwiches. It has no name, but everyone knows it as "donde la negra." A sandwich costs $5,000 COP. Perfect for rehydrating between workshops.
How to Get There and Transportation
Getting to Castilla from downtown Medellín is easy. Take the Metro to the Caribe station (line A). There, get off and walk north along Carrera 68 for about 10 minutes. You can also take a bus that says "Castilla" or "Terminal del Norte" from the Exposiciones station. The bus costs $2,900 COP (price as of April 2026). If you come by car, the safest parking lot is on Calle 95 with Carrera 70, a guarded lot that charges $5,000 COP per hour.
To get around the neighborhood, walking is best. The streets are narrow and traffic can be heavy. If you're going to several workshops, bring a mental map or a list of addresses, because there is no tourist signage and GPS sometimes fails in the alleys.
Local Tips to Avoid Fakes
Not everything that glitters in Castilla is authentic. Some workshops have started selling products that look handmade but are imported from China or mass-produced. Here are signs to identify a genuine workshop:
- The smell: A leather workshop smells like leather, not synthetic glue. If it smells like plastic, it's probably not handmade.
- The hands: If the artisan doesn't have calluses or dye stains on their fingers, be suspicious. Manual work leaves marks.
- The prices: If a leather piece costs less than $20,000 COP, it's probably an imitation. Genuine leather is not cheap.
- The conversation: Ask the owner how they learned the trade. If they tell you a story about their grandmother or a master, it's a good sign. If they give you a generic answer, it's best to walk away.
- The materials: Authentic workshops usually have scraps, loose threads, and old tools in plain sight. A place that is too clean and tidy might be a showroom, not a workshop.
Endangered Artisan Techniques
In Castilla, techniques that are not taught in any university are being lost. One of them is backstrap loom weaving, which grandmothers used to make sashes and belts. Only three people in the neighborhood master it, all over 70 years old. Another technique is cross-stitch embroidery on fique fabric, which was used to decorate tablecloths and napkins. Almost no one does it today because fique is rough and hurts the hands. If you find a piece with these techniques, buy it without hesitation. It's not just a garment; it's a piece of history that could disappear in a few years.
Fun fact: On Calle 96 with Carrera 67, there is a workshop that still uses a German pedal sewing machine from 1920. The owner, Doña Rosa, says the machine "has a soul" and that if it breaks, there's no one to repair it because the parts are no longer available.
Direct Sales Calendar
Most workshops are not open to the public every day. But there are key dates when fairs are organized in the patios:
- Last Saturday of each month: Sustainable fashion fair on Calle 95 with Carrera 68 (patio of the Giraldo family home). From 10am to 4pm. About 15 workshops participate.
- First Sunday of May (2026): Weaving and embroidery fair on Carrera 70 with Calle 96. Organized by the Community Action Board of Castilla. There is usually music and food.
- December: Christmas fair in Castilla Park (Calle 95 with Carrera 68). The workshops bring their products out to the street. It's the best time to find unique gift pieces.
If you can't wait for those dates, you can contact the workshops directly. Many serve by appointment. Ask at the corner store or the bakery; the neighbors always know who makes what.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is It Safe to Go to Castilla as a Tourist?
Yes, but with caution. Castilla is a working-class neighborhood, not a tourist area. During the day, the main streets are safe and there is a lot of foot traffic. Avoid lonely alleys after 6pm. Carry only what you need (cash, cell phone) and don't wear flashy jewelry. It's better if you go in a group. The locals are friendly, but as in any neighborhood in Medellín, you need to stay alert.
Can I Pay with a Credit Card at the Workshops?
Most only accept cash or bank transfer. Some larger workshops, like 'Hilos de Altamira', are starting to use Nequi or Daviplata. It's best to ask before buying. If you only have a card, look for an ATM on Calle 95 with Carrera 68 (there is a Banco de Bogotá).
Do the Workshops Have a Website or Social Media?
Very few. Most operate by word of mouth or through WhatsApp groups. If you want to contact a specific workshop, the best thing is to go in person or ask at the Community Action Board of Castilla (Calle 95 #68-20). They have a list of workshops and can give you contact numbers. You can also search for Facebook groups like "Artesanos de Castilla Medellín."
How Much Time Should I Dedicate to the Tour?
Half a day is enough. If you start at 9am, you can visit 3 or 4 workshops, have lunch at the eatery, and be back downtown by 2pm. If you want to see the last Saturday fair, plan to arrive early because the most sought-after products sell out quickly.
Can I Order a Custom Piece?
Yes, most workshops accept custom orders. For example, at 'Hilos de Altamira' you can bring your own design or choose colors. Delivery time is usually one to two weeks. Prices vary depending on complexity. It's best to discuss the details in person to avoid misunderstandings.
If you want an experience that no mall can give you, dive into the patios of Castilla. Here there is no marketing or influencers, only people who know what they do. And if you dare, tell them you come with the code MALOKAL10, which the workshops themselves already know is a sign that you come with good intentions and a desire to support fair trade. Looking for garments with a Castilla DNA? Schedule your visit and take home a story in every stitch.
Historical or Contextual Introduction
Castilla, a neighborhood that has undergone multiple transformations, is a reflection of the dynamism of Bogotá's culture. Originally, this area was a settlement space for families seeking a better life, attracted by the job opportunities offered by the factories and workshops of the local industry. Over time, the community has evolved, becoming an epicenter of the creative economy that manifests itself in the clandestine workshops of art, design, and production.
The history of Castilla is marked by its cultural diversity, where different waves of migration have enriched the neighborhood's identity. This phenomenon has fostered an environment conducive to innovation and creation, leading to the transformation of house patios into collaborative workspaces, where unique products that reflect the essence of the place are generated.
Furthermore, access to recycled and low-cost materials has driven many entrepreneurs to start their micro-enterprises, turning the workshops into hubs of creativity and economic resistance. In this context, the clandestine workshops not only represent a source of income but also a form of cultural and social vindication for the community.