Introduction: When the Walls Speak
Have you ever walked down a gray street and suddenly stumbled upon a mural that stopped you in your tracks? That happens every day in Pie de la Popa. This neighborhood, which many know only for the hill and the church, hides an open-air art gallery that few tourists take the time to discover. Since 2021, a group of neighbors and local artists began painting the neighborhood's walls to tell their own story, far from the "Photo with the palenquera" signs that dominate the historic center. By July 2026, these murals are already part of the landscape: some are worn by the sun and humidity, others are gleaming, but all have a story worth hearing.
What to Do: A Tour of the 5 Key Murals
Grab your sneakers, a water bottle, and your camera. This tour takes about two hours walking at a leisurely pace, and the best part is that it's completely free. We start at Plaza de la Popa, the heart of the neighborhood.
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1. "La niña de la Popa" – Corner of Plaza de la Popa
This is the most photographed mural in the neighborhood. Painted by Carlos "Caco" Martínez in 2022, it shows an Afro-Colombian girl with braids holding a paper boat in one hand and a hibiscus flower in the other. The background combines the blue of the Caribbean Sea with the green of the hill. Caco, who grew up three blocks from the square, says the girl is his niece and that the boat represents the dreams of the neighborhood's children. It is on the wall of Tienda de doña Lidia, right in front of the basketball court. Approximate coordinates: 10.4213° N, 75.5432° W.
2. "Raíces de tambor" – Calle 30 with Carrera 18
A five-minute walk from the square, on a corner that was once a garbage dump, today stands this mural by Cartagena artist María José "Majo" Pérez. The work, from 2023, depicts three traditional drums (llamador, alegre, and tambora) surrounded by tropical fruits and flowers. Majo worked with the neighborhood children to choose the colors, and each drum has the name of a local musician written in small letters. The mural covers the entire wall of the hardware store "El Martillo". Coordinates: 10.4208° N, 75.5428° W.
3. "El guardián del cerro" – Calle 31A # 19-15
This is the largest mural in the neighborhood: about 15 meters high by 10 meters wide. It was painted by the collective Pinceles Cartageneros in 2024, with support from the Community Action Board. The image is a stylized jaguar looking towards the Cerro de La Popa, with geometric patterns inspired by Zenú pottery. The neighbors say the jaguar protects the neighborhood. At the base of the mural, there is a plaque with the names of the 12 artists who participated. Coordinates: 10.4201° N, 75.5438° W.
4. "Mujeres de agua" – Carrera 19 with Calle 32
A 2025 mural that pays homage to the fish vendors of the Bazurto market. The artist Laura "Lala" Rodríguez painted three women carrying baskets of fish, with the sea in the background. The interesting thing is that she used paint with natural pigments (indigo, achiote, and charcoal) that she prepared herself. The mural is on the wall of the bakery "El Buen Sabor". On Sundays, the baker sets up a table with coffee and pandebono so people can sit and look at it. Coordinates: 10.4195° N, 75.5435° W.
5. "El patio de los sueños" – Calle 33 # 18-50
This is not a traditional mural, but an intervention on an entire alleyway. The collective Arte en las Esquinas painted the walls on both sides with scenes from daily life: children playing soccer, ladies selling empanadas, a man reading the newspaper. On the ground, there are hopscotch and tic-tac-toe games painted. It is a space designed for children to play while adults sit on the wooden benches they installed. Inaugurated in December 2025, it is already the favorite afternoon spot. Coordinates: 10.4190° N, 75.5430° W.
Where to Eat or Drink
After the tour, you will need something to eat. Here are three options that are along the mural route.
Panadería "El Buen Sabor"
On Carrera 19 with Calle 32, right next to the "Mujeres de agua" mural. They sell pandebono, almojábanas, and arepas de huevo from $2,500 COP. Open Monday to Saturday, 6 a.m. to 8 p.m. Coffee with milk costs $3,000 COP. Ask for Mrs. Carmen, who always has a smile and will tell you what the neighborhood was like before the murals.
Fritanga "La Esquina de la Popa"
On Calle 30 with Carrera 18, in front of the "Raíces de tambor" mural. Here they sell beef and chicken empanadas ($2,000 COP each), patacones with hogao ($5,000 COP), and corozo juice ($2,500 COP). Open Tuesday to Sunday, 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. On Saturdays, they play champeta music and the atmosphere is lively.
Tienda de doña Lidia
At Plaza de la Popa, next to the "La niña de la Popa" mural. It is not a restaurant, but they sell cold sodas ($2,000 COP), water ($1,500 COP), and bags of chips. Doña Lidia has a bench outside where you can sit and rest. Sometimes she sells green mango with salt and lemon for $1,000 COP.
How to Get There and Transportation
Pie de la Popa is about 15 minutes by bus from the Historic Center. Here are the options:
- City bus: Take any bus that says "La Popa" or "Pie de la Popa" from Avenida Venezuela. The fare is $2,500 COP (2026). Get off at the Plaza de la Popa stop.
- Taxi or Uber: From the Center, a taxi costs between $10,000 and $15,000 COP. Uber is a bit cheaper, around $8,000 COP. Tell the driver to drop you off at "Plaza de la Popa".
- Walking: If you have time, you can walk from the Center (about 30-40 minutes). Go up Calle Larga until you reach Avenida del Lago, then turn right. It is a gentle uphill climb, but with the heat of Cartagena, we recommend bringing water.
Fun fact: The neighborhood is called "Pie de la Popa" because it is at the foot of the Cerro de La Popa. It used to be an area of mangroves and swamps, but in the 1950s they began filling the land to build houses. Today it is a residential neighborhood with about 15,000 people.
Local Tips
Here are tips that only a local would give you:
- Ideal time: Go between 4 p.m. and 6 p.m. The light is golden and the photos turn out spectacular. Plus, the sun is not as strong.
- Don't go alone at night: The neighborhood is safe during the day, but like in any popular area, it is better to go accompanied or in a group at night. The murals look good in natural light.
- Talk to the neighbors: If you see someone sitting at their doorstep, say hello and ask them about the murals. Most will tell you stories that are not on the internet. Doña Lidia, for example, knows exactly who painted what and why.
- Bring cash: The stores and fritangas do not accept cards. There is an ATM at Plaza de la Popa, but sometimes it does not work.
- Watch out for humidity: The paint on the murals is damaged by sea salt. If you see a peeling mural, it is not neglect: it is the climate of Cartagena. Some artists come to touch up their works every year.
- Don't forget the repellent: In the afternoons, mosquitoes come out. Bring repellent or long sleeves.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are the murals permanent or temporary?
Most are permanent, but the climate of Cartagena (sun, rain, sea salt) wears them down. Some have been retouched by the original artists, and others have been lost. The Pinceles Cartageneros collective has an annual maintenance plan. If you want to see them in their best condition, visit between January and March, right after the touch-ups.
Can I take photos and post them on social media?
Of course, that's what they are for. In fact, the neighbors are happy when they see someone taking photos. Use the hashtag #PieDeLaPopaArte so others can find your content. If you want to take photos with people (like doña Lidia or the children), ask for permission first, as it is good manners.
Are guided tours available?
Yes, and they are free. The Arte en las Esquinas collective organizes a guided tour every Saturday at 4 p.m. from Plaza de la Popa. It lasts approximately an hour and a half, and the guides are neighbors of the neighborhood who tell you the story of each mural. You don't need to book, just arrive on time. Bring your camera and share your photos with #PieDeLaPopaArte.
Is there a cost to visit the murals?
None. All the murals are in public spaces: walls of houses, stores, hardware stores. You can walk freely and take photos without paying anything. If you want to support, buy a pandebono at the bakery or a soda at Tienda de doña Lidia. That helps the neighbors who take care of the murals.
Can I paint a mural myself if I am an artist?
Not without permission. The walls are on private property or belong to the Community Action Board. If you want to paint, contact the Arte en las Esquinas collective through their Instagram page (search for "ArteEnLasEsquinasCartagena"). They have an artist residency program that invites local and international painters. However, there is a waiting list.