Historical or Contextual Introduction
Getsemaní wasn't always the bohemian, colorful neighborhood you see today. A few decades ago, it was a working-class area, noisy and somewhat dangerous, where Cartagena's working-class families raised their children to the beat of champeta drums and the smell of fried fish. During colonial times, it was home to the slaves and artisans who built the walls that are now a World Heritage Site. But what truly transformed the face of the neighborhood was art. Starting in the 2000s, as tourism began to boom, local and foreign artists started painting its walls. It wasn't decoration: it was a way to tell who they were, where they came from, and what they were losing.
Today, in July 2026, walking through the streets of Getsemaní is like touring an open-air museum. But don't be fooled by the postcard: each graffiti has a story, and some are harsher than the midday sun. Here I'll take you on a route of 5 murals that are not only beautiful but also explain why this neighborhood is the rebellious heart of Cartagena.
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What to Do
The route I propose is walkable and will take you between 2 and 3 hours, depending on how much you stop to take photos or chat with locals. Start early, before 9 a.m., when the heat hasn't yet melted you and the streets are quiet. Bring water, sunscreen, and a hat. And watch out: don't use your phone in plain sight on very lonely streets, like Calle Larga or Media Luna after 7 p.m. It's better to go in a group or with a local guide if you don't know the area.
Besides the murals, take the opportunity to explore the alleys. On Calle de la Sierpe, there are artist workshops selling prints and t-shirts. In Plaza de la Trinidad, on weekends, there are dance and live music performances. And if you get hungry, I'll tell you below where to eat without falling into the tourist traps of the Centro Histórico.
The 5 Graffiti You Can't Miss
Here they are, in suggested route order, starting from the neighborhood entrance on Avenida del Centenario.
1. “La Memoria del Tambor” – Calle del Guerrero with Callejón del Estribo
Artist: The local collective “La Raza 3.0” (2021). Location: Corner of Calle del Guerrero, in front of a bicycle repair shop. Meaning: This mural, about 4 meters high, shows a black man playing a drum, eyes closed, with a smile that seems from another century. Around him, colorful spirals represent the sound. The drum is not just music: it is the language slaves used to communicate in secret during the colonial era. The Spanish banned it several times, saying it “incited rebellion.” And they were right: the drum was the first code of resistance. Today, this mural is a reminder that champeta and mapalé are not tourist folklore, but a legacy of struggle. Fun fact: locals say that if you stand in front of the mural at noon, the sun projects the drummer's shadow onto the opposite wall, as if he were playing.
2. “La Niña de la Ventana” – Calle de la Media Luna, # 10-23
Artist: Bogotá-born “Mona Caro” (2019). Location: On the facade of a yellow colonial house, right next to a hostel called “El Viajero”. Meaning: An Afro-Colombian girl peeks out from a wooden window. She doesn't smile. She has large, serious eyes, and in her hands she holds a hibiscus flower. The mural is a tribute to the neighborhood girls who grow up watching tourism change their surroundings: prices rise, neighbors leave, and streets that were once for play are now for selfies. Mona Caro said in an interview that she wanted to “show the gaze of one who observes without being seen.” If you look closely, the real window of the house has bars, and the painting integrates them as part of the work. It's a visual punch that reminds you the neighborhood's beauty coexists with surveillance and loss.
3. “El Grito de la Independencia” – Calle de la Sierpe, in front of the ice cream shop “La Paletera”
Artist: Cartagena-born “Kami” (2020). Location: Entire wall of a three-story building, on the corner with Calle del Pozo. Meaning: This is the largest mural on the route. It shows a woman with her face painted half white and half black, split down the middle, holding a Cartagena flag made of fabric scraps. At her feet, there are tiny figures representing the official “heroes” of independence (Simón Bolívar, José Prudencia Padilla), but they are blurry, like ghosts. Kami's idea was to question the official narrative: Cartagena's independence in 1811 wasn't just the work of wealthy Creoles; the blacks and mulattos of Getsemaní were the ones who actually took up arms. The mural was painted right after the social unrest of 2021, which is why it has an air of protest. Look for the artist's signature in the lower right corner: it has a small skull wearing a vueltiao hat.
4. “La Sirena de la Ciénaga” – Callejón del Estribo, # 8-15
Artist: Venezuelan-born “Luna Rojas” (2022). Location: In a narrow alley connecting Calle del Estribo with Calle de la Media Luna. Meaning: A dark-skinned mermaid with green hair emerges from murky waters, eyes closed, with a peaceful expression. But she's not a Disney mermaid: she has scales of dried fish and shell necklaces that look like Santería beads. The mural speaks of the neighborhood's relationship with the Ciénaga de la Virgen, the wetland surrounding Cartagena that for decades was a source of food and livelihood for Getsemaní's fishermen. Today, the swamp is polluted by tourist waste and real estate projects. The mermaid is a lament for what is lost: dirty water, dead fish, memory drowning. It's the least “Instagrammable” mural on the list, but the most honest.
5. “El Abrazo de los Dos Mundos” – Plaza de la Trinidad, north side
Artist: Spanish “Javier Riera” and Colombian “Milo” (2023). Location: On the wall of the old market, now converted into a cultural center. Meaning: Two enormous hands, one black and one white, intertwine to form a circle. In the center, there is an eye crying tears of color. The mural was painted during the International Urban Art Festival of Cartagena, and it was controversial: some locals said it was “very pretty but false,” because the embrace between races in the real city remains tense. Others defended it as an ideal to aspire to. The truth is, since it was painted, the plaza has filled with street vendors selling crafts and food, and the mural has become the meeting point for street art tours. If you sit on the steps of the Trinidad church, you'll see how the mural changes color with the afternoon light. It's a good place to end the route and have a cold beer.
Where to Eat or Drink
After walking, your body will crave something to eat. In Getsemaní, there are options for all budgets, but I recommend avoiding the restaurants on Calle del Arsenal, which are expensive and generic. Instead, look for these:
- La Cocina de Martha (Calle de la Sierpe, # 9-42): A small place with plastic tables, where Martha cooks like her grandmother: coconut rice, fried fish, and patacones. Typical dish from $15,000 COP. Open Monday to Saturday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. They don't accept cards, only cash.
- Demente (Calle del Guerrero, # 10-12): Cocktail bar with a terrace, specializing in Colombian rums. A mojito costs $22,000 COP. Relaxed atmosphere, live music on Thursdays. Open from 5 p.m. to 1 a.m.
- La Paletera (Calle de la Sierpe, # 8-30): Artisanal ice creams made from tropical fruits like lulo, maracuyá, and corozo. A popsicle costs $6,000 COP. Perfect for cooling down between murals.
- Street food in Plaza de la Trinidad: On weekends, from 6 p.m., there are stalls selling arepas de huevo, empanadas, and sugarcane juice. Prices from $3,000 to $8,000 COP. Caution: wash your hands well before eating and avoid stalls that don't have clean ice.
How to Get There and Transportation
Getsemaní is right next to the Centro Histórico, on the other side of the Puente de la Matuna. If you're coming from Rafael Núñez Airport, take a taxi or Uber (between $15,000 and $25,000 COP, depending on traffic). We don't recommend Transcaribe (the public bus) because the route doesn't go directly there and drops you off on Avenida del Centenario, a 10-minute walk away, which can be uncomfortable with luggage.
If you're already in the Centro, you can walk from the Torre del Reloj in 5 minutes. Cross the bridge and you're on Calle Larga, the neighborhood's main entrance. You can also rent a bicycle from shops like “BiciCartagena” (Calle de la Media Luna, # 12-30) for $30,000 COP per day. The neighborhood is flat and easy to bike around, but watch out for mototaxis that sometimes speed through the narrow streets.
To get around within the neighborhood, walking is best. The streets are narrow and full of stairs, so leave your heels at the hotel. If you get tired, mototaxis charge $5,000 COP for short trips (negotiate the price before getting on).
Local Tips
- Key hours: The murals look best between 7 a.m. and 10 a.m., when the light is soft and there aren't many people. At noon, the sun is brutal and shadows ruin photos.
- Respectful photography: Don't stand in front of house doors or use flash if locals are sitting on the sidewalk. Ask before photographing people, especially children. If a local asks you not to take a photo, respect that.
- Safety: Getsemaní is safe during the day, but at night avoid unlit streets like Callejón del Estribo and Calle de la Media Luna after 9 p.m. Carry only what you need: cash in small bills, a copy of your passport, and your phone in a closed pocket.
- Language: Although many Cartageneros speak basic English, learning phrases like “¿Dónde queda este mural?” or “¿Cuánto cuesta?” in Spanish will earn you smiles. The coastal accent is fast and drops letters, but don't be alarmed: repeat slowly if you don't understand.
- Gentrification: This is a sensitive topic. Many murals were painted with permission from homeowners, but others are illegal. Don't take photos of works that look freshly painted without asking, as they might be by artists who don't want publicity. And if you see a mural covered in white paint, it's because the owner got tired of tourism or the city council erased it. It's part of the neighborhood's living history.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it safe to walk alone through Getsemaní to see the graffiti?
Yes, during the day it's quite safe, especially on main streets like Calle de la Sierpe, Calle del Guerrero, and Plaza de la Trinidad. But avoid lonely alleys after 6 p.m. if you're alone. It's always better to go with company or join a guided street art tour, which cost around $50,000 COP per person and take you to the murals with historical context. Some tours are run by the local artists themselves, like “Grafiti Tours Cartagena” (no fixed phone number, but you can find them at Plaza de la Trinidad on Saturdays at 10 a.m.).
Are the graffiti permanent or do they change?
Some are permanent, like “La Memoria del Tambor” and “El Grito de la Independencia,” which are protected by the community. Others, like “La Sirena de la Ciénaga,” may be repainted if the homeowner decides or if the weather damages them. Street art in Getsemaní is ephemeral by nature: each year, during the International Urban Art Festival (usually in February), new murals are painted and some old ones are erased. If you want to see the newest ones, visit during that time. But the 5 I mentioned here have a high probability of remaining standing until the end of 2027.
Can I buy prints or souvenirs of the murals?
Yes, but not at the murals themselves. Several artists sell reproductions in nearby workshops. For example, at Calle de la Sierpe # 9-10, there is a shop called “Arte Getsemaní” where you can find prints of “La Niña de la Ventana” and “El Abrazo de los Dos Mundos” from $25,000 COP. There are also t-shirts printed with designs by Kami and Mona Caro. However, avoid buying from street resellers, as they are often poor-quality copies and don't support the original artists.
Share Your Favorite Mural
After touring this route, you'll surely have one or two murals that blew your mind. Upload them to Instagram with the hashtag #GrafitiGetsemani and tag @malokal. This way, you help more travelers learn the real story of the neighborhood, not just the postcard of the walls. And if you see a new mural not in this guide, write to us on our chat at malokal.com to update it. Getsemaní changes every day, and art is its best logbook.