Introduction: The Stove as the Soul of Getsemaní
If you walk through the streets of Getsemaní on a Friday afternoon, when the sun begins to set over Plaza de la Trinidad, you will feel something that no restaurant in the walled city can replicate: the smell of coconut burning on a wood-fired stove. That aroma is the password to a Cartagena that doesn't appear in tourist guides.
For decades, Getsemaní was the working-class and rebellious neighborhood of Cartagena. This is where the artisans, fishermen, and washerwomen lived. And in those houses with high ceilings and patios full of mango trees, the grandmothers cooked with what they had: hand-grated coconut, fish freshly bought at Bazurto, and slow fire. That tradition hasn't been completely lost. There are still women — and some men — who open the doors of their homes to share their cooking with travelers seeking something more authentic than a hotel ceviche.
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In July 2026, as I write this, three secret stoves are still burning in Getsemaní. They are not restaurants. They have no signs. They don't appear on Google Maps if you search for "typical food." They are family homes where entry is by recommendation or direct reservation. Here I'll tell you how to find them, what to expect, and how to behave when you sit at the table of a Cartagena grandmother.
What a "Fogón" Means in Cartagena
Before we get into the addresses, you need to understand this: a fogón is not a stove. It is a controlled fire on bricks or a metal base, where you cook with wood or charcoal. On the Colombian Caribbean coast, the fogón is the heart of the home. That's where coconut rice is made, fish is fried, and patacones are stewed. The smoky flavor that wood gives cannot be achieved with gas or induction.
These cooks are not chefs. They are women who learned from their mothers and grandmothers, who cook without written recipes, measuring by hand and by eye. Each dish tells a story of scarcity and creativity: coconut rice was born to use the coconut milk left over after making sweets; patacones are green plantains flattened with a stone because there was no rolling pin.
Eating at a fogón in Getsemaní is sitting in a living room with plastic chairs, listening to neighborhood gossip, and understanding why Cartagenans say that "food cooked with wood tastes like love."
The 3 Secret Stoves of Getsemaní
These three places are not in competition with each other. Each has its specialty, its schedule, and its personality. What they share is that they don't advertise. Most of their customers come through word-of-mouth from local guides or through contacts on social media. Here I give you the information I have been able to confirm as of July 2026.
Doña Matilde's Stove: The Coconut Rice You Won't Forget
Doña Matilde lives in a yellow-fronted house on Calle del Guerrero, near the Portal de los Escribanos. She has been cooking on her wood-fired stove for 40 years, which is in the backyard, under a zinc roof. Her specialty is coconut rice with fried fish, but not just any rice: hers uses freshly grated coconut, not packaged coconut milk, and she cooks it in an iron pot inherited from her mother-in-law.
The menu is fixed and non-negotiable: coconut rice, fried fish (usually red snapper or mojarra), patacones, tomato and onion salad, and a glass of corozo or tamarind juice. For dessert, she sometimes offers papaya candy or cocadas. All for a price that in July 2026 is around $35,000 COP per person (about 9 dollars).
Doña Matilde only receives groups of up to 6 people and asks that you let her know at least one day in advance. She doesn't have a landline, but you can contact her via WhatsApp at the number her grandson gives you, who sometimes manages an Instagram account (@matildefogon). If you can't find the number, ask at the corner store on Calle del Guerrero with Calle 25 — they know how to find her there.
Fun fact: Doña Matilde doesn't use salt in her coconut rice. She says, "a well-chosen coconut already has its point." If you're someone who salts everything, ask for salt on the side, but don't tell her it's missing something — she'll laugh and tell you that "the palate is educated."
Tía Nena's Kitchen: Stewed Fish and Corn Cake
Tía Nena — whose real name is Nelly, but nobody calls her that — cooks in her house on Calle Larga, in front of the old train station. Her specialty is stewed fish, a thick stew with tomato, onion, garlic, bell pepper, and coconut milk, served with white rice and bollo de maíz (corn cake). She makes the bollo herself: corn dough wrapped in plantain leaves, steamed over the fogón.
Tía Nena is more flexible than Doña Matilde. She receives diners from Monday to Saturday, for lunch (12:30 pm to 3:00 pm) and sometimes for dinner if you let her know early. The price is similar: $30,000 to $40,000 COP depending on the fish of the day. She has no social media, but you can find her in person: knock on her door (the one with a small wooden sign that says "Cocina de Nena") and she herself will come out to attend to you.
Anecdote: Once a German tourist asked her to teach him how to make the bollo. Tía Nena had him knead corn for 20 minutes. The German sweated more than a fisherman at Bazurto, but he left with the recipe in his head. "You can't learn that on YouTube," she told him.
Doña Ester's Home: Dinner with History at Plaza de la Trinidad
Doña Ester lives half a block from Plaza de la Trinidad, in a house with an interior garden full of basil and oregano plants. Her kitchen is the most "Instagrammable" of the three — not because it's decorated, but because the fogón is in the patio, under a lemon tree, and the sunset light is perfect for photos. But don't be fooled: this is not a hipster restaurant. Doña Ester starts cooking at 5 in the morning and only receives guests for dinner, by prior reservation.
Her star dish is cabecita negra bean rice with shredded beef and patacones. She also makes a fish in coconut sauce that is famous among the neighbors. What sets her apart is that, while she cooks, she tells stories of the neighborhood: how Getsemaní was a mangrove swamp before the Spanish arrived, how her grandmother washed clothes in the Caño de Juan Angola, how the neighborhood survived the era of drug trafficking. Eating with her is like listening to a Cartagena history podcast, but with the smell of garlic and onion.
Doña Ester charges $45,000 COP per person and includes an appetizer (a patacón with hogao), main course, and dessert. She only receives groups of 4 to 8 people, and asks that you write to her at least two days in advance. Her contact is a WhatsApp number that circulates among local guides; if you can't get it, ask at the craft store on Plaza de la Trinidad, where Doña Ester's daughter works on weekends.
What to Do in Getsemaní Before or After Eating
Don't go just to eat. Getsemaní is a neighborhood to be walked slowly. Before arriving at the fogón, take a stroll through these places:
- Plaza de la Trinidad: The heart of Getsemaní. At night it fills with vendors of cocktails, crafts, and music. Ideal for a preamble.
- Callejón Ancho: A cobblestone street full of urban art murals. Look for the mural of the "Gorda de Getsemaní" — it's a local icon.
- Iglesia de la Santísima Trinidad: A 17th-century church that looks like it's from a movie. Its facade has an ochre color that changes with the daylight.
- Museo de la Independencia (former Palacio de la Inquisición): It's in the center, a 10-minute walk away, but it's worth it to understand the city's history.
- Caño de Juan Angola: A canal that separates Getsemaní from the center. In the afternoons, local fishermen sell fresh fish directly from their boats.
If your dinner is at night, take the opportunity to walk through the streets around Plaza de la Trinidad after eating. There are small bars with live music, like Quiebracanto or La Esquina del Fuego, where they play champeta and salsa until late.
Where to Eat or Drink Near the Stoves
If you arrive hungry before the fogón's time, or if you want something quick afterward, these places are a stone's throw away:
- La Cocina de Pepina: On Calle del Guerrero, two houses from Doña Matilde's. It's a stall selling arepas de huevo and empanadas. Perfect for a snack before dinner. Open from 7 am to 2 pm.
- El Boliche de Getsemaní: On Calle Larga, near Tía Nena's. They sell cold beer and coconut lemonade. It's the meeting point for neighbors after lunch.
- La Tienda de la Plaza: On Plaza de la Trinidad, they sell natural juices of corozo, zapote, and guanábana. Ask for a "raspao" (shaved ice with syrup) if the heat is intense.
- Demente: A bar on Calle del Sargento that opens at night. They have cocktails with artisanal rum and electronic music. It's not traditional, but it's a good contrast after the home-cooked meal.
How to Get to Getsemaní and Transportation
Getsemaní is adjacent to the historic center of Cartagena. Getting there is simple:
- On foot: If you are in the walled center, cross the bridge on Calle Larga or the one on Calle del Guerrero. It's a 10-15 minute walk from the Torre del Reloj.
- By taxi or Uber: From any point in Cartagena, a taxi costs between $8,000 and $15,000 COP (2 to 4 dollars). Ask to be dropped off at Plaza de la Trinidad.
- By bus: Urban bus routes that pass through the center (like the Ternera route or the Crespo route) drop you off on the main avenue, a 5-minute walk from Getsemaní. Ask the driver for "Getsemaní" or "Plaza de la Trinidad."
- By bicycle: There are several public bicycle stations (the "Bicicartagena" system) near the Torre del Reloj. You can rent one by the hour and leave the bike at the station on Plaza de la Trinidad.
Warning: I do not recommend walking alone at night on very dark streets, especially those far from Plaza de la Trinidad. Getsemaní is generally safe, but as in any popular neighborhood, you need to be careful with your belongings. Always go in a group or as a couple.
Local Tips for Eating in Someone Else's Home
Eating at a fogón is not the same as going to a restaurant. Here are unwritten rules that locals follow:
- Arrive on time. The food is cooked for the agreed time. If you arrive late, the fish gets cold and the cook gets offended. It's not disrespect, it's that they have their own rhythm.
- Bring cash. None of these grandmothers accept credit cards or Nequi. Bring small bills ($10,000, $20,000, and $50,000 COP). Don't expect change for large bills.
- Don't ask for changes to the menu. "Can it be without onion?" or "Do you have a vegan option?" are questions that don't work here. You eat what is available, and what is available is what the grandmother decided to cook that day. If you have serious allergies, let them know days in advance.
- Help set the table. It's a gesture of courtesy that they appreciate. Ask: "Do you need any help?" — they will almost always say no, but the effort counts.
- Don't use your cell phone at the table. Doña Matilde, especially, hates it when people look at their phones while eating. "Food is enjoyed with the eyes and mouth, not with a screen," she says.
- Leave a tip. It's not mandatory, but if you liked the food, leave between $5,000 and $10,000 COP. They don't expect it, but it makes them happy.
- Ask for the recipe. The cooks love it when you ask for the recipe. But don't expect exact measurements. They'll tell you: "a fistful of rice, a spoonful of coconut, and slow fire until it smells good."
Frequently Asked Questions
How Far in Advance Do I Need to Reserve?
Ideally, contact the cooks at least 48 hours in advance. Doña Matilde and Doña Ester are stricter with reservations; Tía Nena sometimes accepts same-day if she's not too busy. In high season (December to February, July), I recommend reserving a week in advance. If you don't get a response, don't insist — they have their own rhythm and sometimes turn off their phones.
Can I Go Alone or Only in a Group?
All three cooks prefer groups of at least 2 people. If you are traveling alone, you can ask if there are other diners that day to join. Doña Ester sometimes organizes community dinners where strangers sit together, but it's not the norm. The best thing is to find other travelers in Getsemaní hostels (like Hostal Casa de la Trinidad or Getsemaní Hostel) and form a small group.
Are the Stoves Suitable for Children or People with Dietary Restrictions?
Yes, they are suitable for children, but there is no children's menu. Children eat the same as adults, in smaller portions. Regarding restrictions: if you are allergic to fish or coconut, it's best to avoid these fogones, because almost all dishes include them. If you are celiac, rice and corn are gluten-free, but the fish might be floured — ask first. There are no vegan options because the base of Caribbean cuisine is fish, pork, or chicken.
How Much Does It Cost in Total, Including Tip?
With tip included, expect to pay between $35,000 and $55,000 COP per person (9 to 14 dollars). It's a fair price considering it's home-cooked food, handmade, with fresh ingredients from the market. Don't haggle — they set the price and it's more than reasonable.
Is There a Dress Code?
There is no dress code, but Cartagena is hot. Wear light clothing (cotton, linen), comfortable walking shoes, and bring mosquito repellent. The houses don't have air conditioning, so be prepared to sweat while you eat. It's part of the experience.
Call to Action: Book a Dinner at Doña Matilde's Home
If you can only visit one fogón, make it Doña Matilde's. Her coconut rice is the closest to the original recipe of the Getsemaní grandmothers, and her personality will make you feel like you're eating at your own grandmother's house — even if yours never cooked with wood.
To reserve, look on Instagram for @matildefogon or ask at the store on Calle del Guerrero with Calle 25. If you don't have access to social media, any local tour guide on Plaza de la Trinidad can give you the WhatsApp number. Don't leave it for the last day — she only cooks for 6 people per shift, and in high season it fills up quickly.
And if you can't get a spot with Doña Matilde, Tía Nena and Doña Ester are just as authentic. The important thing is to sit at the table of a Cartagena family, taste the flavor of the fogón, and understand why on the Caribbean coast they say that "food cooked with wood tastes like history."