Historical or Contextual Introduction
If you arrive in Cartagena and only stay in the Historic Center or Bocagrande, you are missing the city that truly breathes. Crespo, the neighborhood surrounding the Rafael Núñez Airport, is a place of low houses, corner stores, and a heat you can feel even on the asphalt. But what few tourists know is that Crespo has been, for about ten years, a living canvas of street art. It is not the institutional art of the galleries in Getsemaní nor the murals paid for by the Mayor's Office to boost Instagram. Here, the art is rawer: paint peeling from the salt air, signatures of young people tagging in the early morning, and, occasionally, a huge mural that stops you in your tracks.
The phenomenon began around 2016, when a group of local artists, tired of the center getting all the attention, decided to paint the facades of Crespo without asking permission. Today, in June 2026, many of those original murals have already been erased by the salty climate coming from the Caribbean Sea, but others have been replaced by more recent works. This article is a guide for you to walk through Crespo with detective eyes, looking for the mural you don't see at first glance, the one hidden behind a lowered shutter, or the one that is barely distinguishable due to humidity.
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A little-known curiosity: the shark on Calle 70, which I will tell you about later, was not painted by a famous artist, but by a neighbor of the neighborhood who worked in a mechanic's shop. That detail is something only a local will give you, and that's why you are reading this.
What to Do
Detailed Map of 5 Unmissable Murals
So you don't get lost, I'll give you GPS-like instructions, as if you were walking from the airport entrance. You don't need a digital map, just eyes and patience.
- Mural 1: The Shark on Calle 70 with Carrera 2 — This is the most famous in the neighborhood. A hammerhead shark about 4 meters high, painted in blue and gray, that seems ready to jump off the wall. It is on the corner of a corner store called 'Donde Mary'. The artist, a guy named "Kike", painted it in 2019 and, although the sun has already eaten away the colors, the silhouette remains imposing. To get there: from the airport exit, walk 10 minutes north along Calle 70; when you see a line of parked motorcycles, you are close.
- Mural 2: The Girl with the Mangoes on Calle 71 — On the facade of a corner house, there is a girl wearing a vueltiao hat holding a tray of green mangoes. It is the work of "Luna", a Cartagena artist who has been painting since she was 15. The mural is from 2021 and is in better condition than the shark because the house has an eave that protects it from direct sun. Exact address: Calle 71 # 2-45, half a block from the 'Donde Mary' store.
- Mural 3: The Mechanical Octopus on Carrera 3 — This is the most hidden. On the wall of a bicycle repair shop, there is an octopus with gear parts painted in orange and black tones. It was done by "El Gato", a graffiti artist who lives in the neighborhood and signs with a black cat next to his works. It is on Carrera 3 between Calles 69 and 70. The shop is open Monday to Saturday, 8am-6pm, and the owner, Don Carlos, will let you in to take photos if you buy a soda from him.
- Mural 4: The Flying Fish Series on Calle 68 — This is not a single mural, but a sequence of three flying fish painted on different houses on the same block. They were painted by a collective called "Salitre Crew" in 2022. They are on Calle 68, between Carreras 2 and 3. The fish are small, about 50 centimeters, and easy to miss if you don't look up. Look for the faded wooden shutters.
- Mural 5: The Abstract Face on Carrera 1 with Calle 72 — A human face split into halves of color, red and yellow, that seems to look towards the airport. It was painted by a Venezuelan artist who lived in Crespo for a while. It is on the facade of an abandoned warehouse. It is the largest mural in the neighborhood, about 6 meters high, but the salt air has already erased one eye. If you want to see it before it disappears completely, go soon.
Contrast Between Official Art and Spontaneous Tags
In Crespo, two types of street art coexist. On one hand, there are the "official" murals, those that artists paint with permission from the homeowner, sometimes with support from the Mayor's Office or beer brands. These are the ones you see in Instagram photos: colorful, well-done, with nice messages about Caribbean culture. The shark and the girl with the mangoes fall into this category.
On the other hand, there are the spontaneous tags: quick signatures, names of local gangs, drawings made with spray paint on a night of rum and heartbreak. These don't last more than a couple of weeks because neighbors erase them with lime or paint over them. But for graffiti lovers, those tags tell the real story of the neighborhood: the competition among young people, messages of love or threat, the need to leave a mark in a place where no one will remember you. If you walk along Carrera 2 after 10 pm, you will see freshly tagged walls that are gone the next day.
The difference is clear: official art seeks to beautify, the tag seeks to exist. And in Crespo, both are part of the landscape.
How the Salty Climate Erases the Murals
The Caribbean does not forgive. The salty breeze coming from the sea, combined with the relentless sun and the humidity of the rains from May to November, causes the murals of Crespo to fade within months. The shark on Calle 70, for example, in 2021 had white teeth and a yellow eye. Today, in 2026, the color has turned a pale blue, almost gray, and the eye is only distinguishable if you know where to look.
I have seen before-and-after photos that break my heart. In 2020, the mechanical octopus at the bicycle shop was bright orange; now it looks like a rusty blur. The artists know their work is ephemeral, and that is why some have started using protective varnishes, but the salt air gets into even the smallest cracks. If you want to see a mural in its best condition, come between December and February, when the breeze is less humid and the sun is not as harsh.
Where to Eat or Drink
After walking around looking for murals, hunger strikes. In Crespo, there are no fancy restaurants, but there are food stalls that will save your day.
Donde Mary (Calle 70 # 2-10)
The same store as the shark. Doña Mary sells beef and cheese empanadas for $2,000 COP each (reference price as of June 2026), and ice-cold corozo juice. There are no tables; you sit on the sidewalk and watch the motorcycles go by. Open Monday to Saturday, 7am-9pm.
Fritanga El Sabor de Crespo (Carrera 2 # 71-30)
A fritanga cart that sets up from 5 pm. They sell arepas de huevo, patacones with suero, and sausages. The owner, Don José, has been on the same corner for 15 years. A patacón with everything costs $8,000 COP. There is no fixed schedule, but if you see a line of people, you know it's open.
Panadería La 70 (Calle 70 # 3-15)
For a quick breakfast. They sell pan de bono, almojábanas, and coffee with milk. A combo of pan de bono with coffee costs $4,500 COP. They are open from 6am to 12pm, and closed on Sundays. The pan de bono is some of the best in the neighborhood.
How to Get There and Transportation
Crespo is right next to the Rafael Núñez Airport, so it's easy to get to if you are coming from outside. If you are in the Historic Center, take a bus on the "Crespo-Manga" route that leaves from Plaza de la Aduana. The fare is $2,300 COP (reference price as of June 2026) and it drops you off on Calle 70 in 20 minutes, depending on traffic.
From Bocagrande, you can walk 15 minutes along Avenida Santander until you reach Calle 70, or take a taxi that will charge you between $10,000 and $15,000 COP. If you come by car, parking in Crespo is on the street, but be careful with the informal "cuidanderos" who ask for $2,000 COP to watch it; it's better to leave the car at the airport parking lot, which costs $5,000 COP per hour.
To get around the neighborhood, walking is best. The streets are short and the murals are just a few blocks from each other. If you get tired, you can take a mototaxi (the famous "mototaxis") that will take you from one end to the other for $3,000 COP. Negotiate the price before getting on.
Local Tips
- Bring water and sunscreen. The sun in Crespo is relentless, especially between 11am and 3pm. There isn't much shade, so stay well hydrated.
- Don't touch the murals. It seems obvious, but I have seen tourists put their damp hands on fresh paint and ruin it. If you see a newly painted mural, don't touch it.
- Talk to the neighbors. The owners of the houses where the murals are located usually know who painted them and when. Don Carlos, from the bicycle shop, will tell you the story of the octopus if you ask him respectfully.
- Look for the murals at sunset. The golden light at 5pm makes the colors look more vibrant. Plus, the breeze drops a bit and it's more pleasant to walk.
- Don't come during Holy Week. The neighborhood fills with tourists coming to the airport, and the murals get crowded with people parked in front. Better to come on any random Tuesday.
- Tag the shark artist. If you upload photos to Instagram, tag @kike_art_cartagena (if the account is still active) or use the hashtag #MuralCrespo. Local artists appreciate the recognition.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it safe to walk around Crespo looking for murals?
Yes, Crespo is a quiet residential neighborhood, but as in any place in Cartagena, don't let your guard down. Walk during the day, avoid lonely streets after 8 pm, and don't carry valuables in plain sight. The neighbors are friendly and will help you if you get lost.
Do the murals cost anything to see?
No, all the murals are on public facades. There is no entrance fee or permission needed, although if you want to enter the bicycle shop to see the octopus up close, buying a soda is a good-will gesture.
How long does it take to see all 5 murals?
It depends on your pace. If you walk non-stop, you can see them all in an hour. But if you take photos, talk to the neighbors, and sit down to eat an empanada, plan for about 3 hours. Take time to enjoy, not to rush.
Are there guided street art tours in Crespo?
There are no formal tours like in the Historic Center, but some local guides offer informal tours. Ask at the 'Donde Mary' store or at the hostel "Crespo Beach Hostel" (Calle 70 # 2-50); they sometimes organize walks on weekends. If not, you can follow this guide and do it on your own.