Getsemaní at Night: Graffiti That Speaks of Resistance
The first time you see a graffiti in Getsemaní, you'll most likely pull out your phone for a photo. An Afro woman with a turban, a mangy dog on a corner, a child flying a kite over a peeling wall. But if you only focus on the image, you miss the story. This neighborhood, which today is the epicenter of tourism in Cartagena, was for decades a focal point of popular resistance. Its walls are not painted by fashion: they are marked by the struggle against eviction, the memory of the cimarrones, and the tension between locals and construction companies. In June 2026, when the sun sets behind the walls and the bar lights turn on, the graffiti of Getsemaní continues to tell the story that tourist brochures prefer to omit.
Historical or Contextual Introduction
Getsemaní was not always the trendy neighborhood. Until the 80s, it was an area of fishermen, artisans, and port workers, with wooden houses and inner courtyards where chickens were raised. Plaza de la Trinidad was the heart: dominoes were played there, fried fish was sold, and political meetings were held. But in the 90s, tourism began to push in. Hostels, bars, and fusion restaurants arrived. And with them, gentrification.
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Rental prices went up. Entire families had to move to peripheral neighborhoods like Olaya Herrera or Blas de Lezo. The locals who remained began to organize. And one of their tools was street art. Not as decoration, but as protest. The first graffiti were not made by international artists invited by the Mayor's Office: they were painted by the residents themselves, with spray cans bought at the corner hardware store, to mark their territory and say "we still live here."
Today, the neighborhood has over 50 murals. Some are institutional, funded by beer brands or the Ministry of Culture. Others remain anonymous, signed with nicknames like "El Boga" or "La Mona." The difference is key: the former are pretty, the latter are real.
What to Do
Map of 4 Key Murals
To understand the real pulse of Getsemaní, you need to look for these four murals. They are not on the official routes, but they are the ones with history. Wear comfortable shoes and bring your phone's flashlight: some are in dark alleys.
- Mural de la Resistencia (Calle del Sargento with Calle de la Media Luna): Painted in 2018 by the local collective "Grafiti Getsemaní." It shows a black hand breaking chains, with the text "La lucha sigue" (The struggle continues). It was made in response to the mass eviction of 12 families from a heritage house. The locals slept on the street for three weeks. The mural has been repainted three times because the Mayor's Office has ordered it removed, but it always returns.
- Mujer Palenquera (Calle de la Victoria, in front of Plaza de la Trinidad): Work by Cartagena-born artist Yina Londoño (2021). It portrays a woman with a red turban and a fruit basket, but with a defiant look. It is not the typical folkloric image: the basket is empty, symbolizing the labor exploitation of street vendors. Next to it, a small plaque reads: "Ellas también resisten" (They also resist).
- El Perro de Getsemaní (Callejón de los Estribos, behind Hostal Casa de España): An anonymous graffiti from 2015. It shows a skinny dog, with ribs showing, sitting in front of a wall. The dog existed: his name was "Mocho," a stray mutt the locals fed. When construction began on a boutique hotel, Mocho disappeared. The graffiti appeared a week later, with the phrase "¿Dónde está Mocho?" (Where is Mocho?). Today it is a symbol of resistance against real estate speculation.
- El Niño de la Cometa (Calle de la Moneda, corner with Calle Larga): Painted in 2022 by Bogotá-based artist Stinkfish, but with permission from the community action board. A black child with a colorful kite flies over a background of collapsed houses. The kite is shaped like a key: it represents the key to the house that many lost. Stinkfish donated the materials, and the locals painted the background together.
Historical Context of Each Mural
The Mural de la Resistencia is not a decoration: it marks the exact spot where, in 2017, the Police evicted the Mendoza family. They had lived there for 40 years, in a house that had belonged to their grandparents. The legal owner sold the property to a construction company planning a hotel. The Mendozas had no formal title deed, only the word of the former owners. The eviction was violent: doors were broken, furniture was thrown into the street. The neighbors organized and blocked the street. The mural was born from that anger.
The Mujer Palenquera connects to the history of San Basilio de Palenque, the first free town in the Americas founded by cimarrones. The palenqueras who sell fruit on the streets of Cartagena are direct descendants of those escaped slaves. But today, many are displaced by gentrification: tourists buy photos from them, not fruit. The mural denounces this objectification.
El Perro de Getsemaní is a curious case: Mocho was so famous that taxi drivers knew him. When he disappeared, rumors circulated that he had been poisoned so he wouldn't bother the guests at the new hotel. It was never proven, but the graffiti became a memorial. Today, locals leave water and food at the base of the mural.
El Niño de la Cometa reflects lost childhood. Before, children played on the dirt streets. Now, the streets are cobbled and full of restaurant tables. The mural is a reminder that the neighborhood is not just a backdrop for Instagram.
Contrast Between the Original Mural and the Current 'Tourist Tag'
Walking through Getsemaní, you will notice two types of street art. The first: huge, colorful murals with phrases in English like "Welcome to Cartagena" or "Love is the answer." These are the ones that appear on the "street art" tours that charge 50 dollars. They were paid for by brands or the Mayor's Office, and often have a QR code leading to the sponsor's page. They are pretty, but empty.
The second type: the original graffiti, smaller, sometimes clumsy, with poorly made letters and faded colors. They are in side alleys, behind garbage containers, on garage doors. They have no artist's signature or hashtag. They tell the real story: the eviction, the struggle, the dead dog. Tourists walk past them because they are not "Instagrammable." But if you stop, you see the difference between a postcard and a testimony.
The problem is that the original murals are disappearing. Construction companies paint the facades white to "beautify" the neighborhood. Locals fight to keep them, but brand money weighs more. In 2025, the Mural de la Resistencia was partially covered by an advertisement for a craft beer. The locals repainted it the next day. That is the dynamic: a constant tug-of-war between memory and the market.
Interview with a Local on How the Neighborhood Has Changed
Don Rafael "Rafa" Martínez is 68 years old and has lived in Getsemaní since he was born. His house, on Calle del Sargento, is one of the few that hasn't been turned into a hostel. We found him one afternoon, sitting on a plastic chair in front of his door, with a domino set in his hand.
"Before, this was a real neighborhood," he says, arranging the tiles. "Kids played soccer in the street. Women sold arepas on the corners. You knew all your neighbors. Now, at 7 at night, it looks like a carnival. Drunk gringos, music blasting, and those of us who live here have to put up with the noise until 3 in the morning."
Rafa points to the dog mural, visible from his door. "That dog was more loyal than many humans. When they started building the hotel, the workers threw stones at him. One night, he didn't show up. The next day, someone painted that mural. No one knows who it was, but we all take care of it. It's like Mocho is still here, watching over us."
We ask him if he thinks street art helps maintain the neighborhood's identity. "It helps, but it's not enough. Murals don't pay rent. Families leave because they can't afford 2 million pesos for a room. And the ones who come don't understand anything. They take photos in front of the palenquera and then go eat sushi that costs what I used to earn in a week."
Rafa is silent for a moment, then smiles. "But well, at least the dog is still there. As long as it's painted, the neighborhood hasn't completely disappeared."
Where to Eat or Drink
After the mural tour, you'll need something to eat. But avoid the restaurants on Calle Larga, where a plate of pasta costs 45,000 COP. Instead, look for local stalls, where the food is more authentic and the price is fair.
- La Cocina de la Abuela (Calle de la Media Luna # 10-25): A small place, with plastic tables and the smell of fried fish. Doña Carmen cooks from 6 am. Try the arroz con coco and the fish in tamarind sauce. Dishes from 12,000 COP. Open Monday to Saturday, 7 am to 5 pm. They don't accept cards.
- Doña Eulalia's Arepa Stall (Corner of Plaza de la Trinidad): A cart that comes out after 6 pm. Arepas de huevo, de chicharrón, de queso. The most popular is the "arepa e' huevo" with suero costeño. Each costs 4,000 COP. Bring cash, as they don't have a card machine.
- El Bodegón de Getsemaní (Calle de la Victoria # 8-12): A neighborhood bar, with vallenato music on the radio and domino tables. They sell cold beer at 3,000 COP per bottle (much cheaper than in tourist bars). They also have patacones con hogao. It's a good place to sit and observe local life, especially after 9 pm, when the locals come out to play dominoes.
How to Get There and Transportation
Getsemaní is within the Ciudad Amurallada (Walled City), but it is not the historic center. You can reach it on foot from the Torre del Reloj: cross the street and enter the neighborhood via Calle Larga. It's a 5-minute walk. You can also take a taxi from anywhere in Cartagena: the trip from Bocagrande costs around 10,000 COP (reference price as of June 2026). Taxis don't use meters, so agree on the price before getting in.
If you are coming from the airport, it's best to take an Uber (around 25,000 COP) or an official taxi (30,000 COP). I don't recommend the buses: they are slow and don't reach the neighborhood.
To get around inside Getsemaní, walk. The streets are narrow and cobbled. There is no car parking, and bicycles can be tricky due to the number of pedestrians. One tip: download an offline map on your phone, because GPS sometimes fails between the narrow streets.
Local Tips
- Best time to see the murals without crowds: Street art tours start at 10 am. If you want to see the murals in peace, go out before 9 am. At that time, the streets are empty, the bars are closed, and the sunlight is soft for photos. Another option: after 10 pm. The neighborhood is lit by lanterns, and the graffiti look different, almost ghostly. Bring mosquito repellent, as mosquitoes are abundant.
- Don't limit yourself to the famous murals: Look on side facades, behind garbage containers, on garage doors. That's where the most sincere graffiti are, the ones without a signature or QR code.
- Talk to the locals: If you see someone sitting at their doorstep, say hello and ask them about the mural on the corner. Most will tell you the real story. Don't offer money: a sincere conversation is worth more than a tip.
- Bring cash: Many food stalls and shops don't accept cards. ATMs are on Calle Larga, but they sometimes run out of bills.
- Respect the space: Don't touch the murals, don't climb on them for a photo, don't leave trash. The neighborhood is home to people fighting to maintain their identity. Treat it with dignity.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is It Safe to Walk Through Getsemaní at Night?
Yes, but with caution. The tourist area (Calle Larga, Plaza de la Trinidad) is well-lit and has tourist police until 1 am. However, the side alleys can be dark. Avoid walking alone after 11 pm on streets like Calle del Sargento or Callejón de los Estribos. Carry only what you need and don't display valuables. In general, the neighborhood is safer than other areas of Cartagena, but use common sense.
Do the Murals Change Frequently?
Yes. Some are permanent, but others are repainted by artists or covered by advertisements. The Mural de la Resistencia, for example, has been modified several times. If you want to see a specific version, check local social media (search for "Grafiti Getsemaní Cartagena" on Instagram) before you go. The tourist murals (like those on Calle Larga) stay the same, but the historical ones can vary.
Are There Guided Graffiti Tours in Getsemaní?
Yes, there are several, but most are operated by companies that work with the Mayor's Office and focus on institutional murals. If you want a more authentic tour, look for the collective "Grafiti Getsemaní" (they don't have a website, but ask the locals in Plaza de la Trinidad). They offer informal tours on Saturdays at 4 pm, for a voluntary donation. No reservation needed: just show up and ask for "Don Rafa."
Can I Buy Spray Paint to Paint a Mural Myself?
Yes, at the hardware store "La Esquina" (Calle de la Media Luna # 12-08) they sell spray cans from 8,000 COP. But respect the unwritten rules: don't paint over existing murals, don't paint on house facades without permission, and avoid making tags (signatures) on historic walls. If you want to leave your mark, look for a blank wall on the outskirts of the neighborhood, away from tourist areas. Locals appreciate art, not vandalism.
What Is the Best Time of Year to Visit Getsemaní?
Between January and March, the weather is drier and there are fewer tourists than in December. Avoid Holy Week and the November festivities (Cartagena's Independence), as the neighborhood gets crowded and prices skyrocket. If you come in June (like now), the afternoons are hot but the nights are cool. Wear light clothing and a light jacket for the evening breeze.
Call to Action
Take the self-guided tour at sunset. Start at Plaza de la Trinidad, where locals still play dominoes under the trees. Listen to the sound of the tiles clicking: that dry noise is the heartbeat of the neighborhood. Then, walk the streets in order: first Calle del Sargento (the Mural de la Resistencia), then Calle de la Victoria (the Mujer Palenquera), then Callejón de los Estribos (El Perro de Getsemaní), and finish at Calle de la Moneda (El Niño de la Cometa). Don't rush. Sit on a corner, observe, listen. Getsemaní is not an open-air museum: it is a living neighborhood that tells you its story if you pay attention. And when you're done, instead of going to an expensive bar, buy yourself an arepa from Doña Eulalia and sit in the square to watch the night go by. That is the real alternative tour of the Ciudad Amurallada.