Bocagrande: the transformation of a neighborhood that was once residential
Bocagrande wasn't always this giant of glass and cement you see today. Until the 80s, it was a neighborhood of low houses with inner courtyards, where neighbors knew each other by name and the sound of the sharpener's flute announced the arrival of the afternoon. The construction of Avenida San Martín and the explosion of tourism in the 90s changed everything: buildings went up, prices skyrocketed, and neighborhood life was buried under dozens of hotels, restaurants, and souvenir shops.
But if you walk carefully, there are still people who resist disappearing. They are the ones who don't sell Cartagena t-shirts or offer chiva tours. They are the ones who maintain trades that seem from another century: the knife sharpener, the seamstress, the green mango seller, the cobbler, and the beach watchman. In July 2026, when mass tourism seems to have consumed everything, these five neighbors are still there, reminding us that Bocagrande also has a soul.
📌 Transparency
This article contains sponsored/affiliate links. We may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.
Profile 1: Don Álvaro, the knife sharpener with the flute
Name: Álvaro Martínez
Age: 67 years. Trade: itinerant knife sharpener. Time in the trade: 42 years.
Don Álvaro is the last knife sharpener left in Bocagrande. He leaves his house in the El Socorro neighborhood at 7 in the morning with his wooden cart, a sharpening stone, and a reed flute he made himself. As he walks along Calle 4 and Avenida San Martín, he plays a melody he learned from his grandfather: "El Cóndor Pasa", but in a coastal version.
"Before, people would come to the door as soon as they heard the flute. They would wait for me with knives, scissors, even machetes. Now I have to play louder because the noise from cars and tourists drowns me out," he tells me while sharpening a kitchen knife brought by a lady from a building on Calle 3.
His typical day: he covers about 10 blocks, does between 8 and 12 services, and each sharpening costs between $5,000 and $10,000 COP, depending on the size. "Tourists sometimes take my picture, but they don't buy anything. The ones who call me are the regular neighbors, the ones who live in the old buildings, the ones who still cook at home."
Anecdote
Two years ago, a group of French tourists filmed him playing the flute and paid him $50,000 COP for an impromptu performance on the corner of Calle 5. "That's not sharpening, that's a show. But you eat whatever you can," he says laughing.
Profile 2: Doña Rosa, the seamstress of Calle 3
Name: Rosa Mendoza
Age: 59 years. Trade: seamstress and mender. Time in the trade: 35 years.
Doña Rosa has her workshop on the first floor of an old building on Calle 3, between Avenida San Martín and Carrera 2. She has no sign, just a 1950 Singer sewing machine that still works like the first day. She does hems, fixes zippers, adjusts wedding dresses, and occasionally sews curtains for small hotels.
"Before, I worked for the ladies of the neighborhood, the ones who lived in houses. Now my clients are the hotel employees: the waiters, the maids. They need their uniforms fixed because they buy them too big and don't have time to go to a formal tailor shop," she explains while sewing the hem of a pair of black pants.
Her day starts at 8:30 am and ends at 6 pm. She charges between $8,000 and $20,000 COP per repair, depending on the complexity. "Tourists don't come here. They go to the shops on the Avenue. But if a tourist rips their pants, sometimes the hotel receptionist brings them to me. That saves me."
Anecdote
In 2024, a German tourist arrived desperate because the wedding dress she was going to wear for a wedding at the Castillo de San Felipe had torn. Doña Rosa fixed it in two hours. The tourist cried with gratitude and paid her $200,000 COP. "That day I didn't work for anyone else, but it was worth it."
Profile 3: Jairo, the green mango seller
Name: Jairo Pérez
Age: 34 years. Trade: itinerant green mango seller. Time in the trade: 12 years.
Jairo owns a green mango cart that he parks on the corner of Calle 5 and Carrera 2, right in front of the beach. His preparation is classic: green mango cut into strips, salt, lime, and, if the customer wants, a touch of tajín or chili powder. He sells each portion in plastic cups for $5,000 COP.
"Tourists ask me what it is. I tell them: 'green mango, like green mango but with seasoning.' At first they're hesitant, but when they try it, many come back for more. The secret is that the mango must be very green, so it crunches," he says while peeling a mango with a precision that only practice brings.
His clientele has changed: before, he mainly sold to locals who went to the beach on weekends. Now, during the week, 70% of his sales are to tourists. "Locals don't come as much anymore. They prefer to go to Marbella beach or La Boquilla, which is cheaper. But tourists are here all day, and they love green mango because it's fresh and different."
Fun fact
Jairo learned the trade from his uncle, who sold green mango in the Centro Histórico. "My uncle taught me how to choose the mango: it has to be the 'hilacha' variety, which is more fibrous and holds up to cutting."
Profile 4: Don Miguel, the cobbler
Name: Miguel Torres
Age: 72 years. Trade: cobbler. Time in the trade: 50 years.
Don Miguel has his stall on Carrera 2, almost at the corner with Calle 6, under a blue tarp that has lost its color. He has a wooden bench, a metal last, glue, nails, and a hammer. There he repairs soles, changes heels, sews straps, and, if necessary, makes sandals from scratch.
"Tourists bring me all kinds of broken shoes: sneakers, sandals, even hiking boots. Once I got an Italian leather shoe that was worth more than my entire stall. I fixed it with waxed thread and it looked like new," he recalls while hammering the sole of a flip-flop.
He charges between $10,000 and $30,000 COP per repair, depending on the damage. His main clientele are neighbors from nearby buildings, but he also gets tourists who are stranded because a shoe broke during their trip. "Hotels send me clients. Sometimes the receptionist tells them: 'go down to the corner, Don Miguel is there, he'll fix them.'"
Anecdote
Three months ago, an Argentine tourist arrived with a broken backpack, not shoes. Don Miguel sewed the strap with shoemaker's thread. "It's not my trade, but you can't leave people in a bind. I charged him $5,000 and he left happy."
Profile 5: Don Pedro, the beach watchman
Name: Pedro Guzmán
Age: 55 years. Trade: beach watchman (umbrella and chair attendant). Time in the trade: 20 years.
Don Pedro is not an itinerant vendor or a lifeguard. He is the man who watches over the umbrellas and chairs he rents to tourists on Bocagrande beach, in front of Calle 4. He arrives at 6:30 am, sets up his 20 umbrellas and 40 chairs, and waits for the first bathers.
"Tourists think I own the beach, but # I own my work. I rent the umbrella for $20,000 COP a day, and the chair for $10,000. If they want two, I give them a combo. Sometimes they haggle, but I tell them: 'sir, this is to support my family.'"
His clientele has changed drastically: before, on weekends, Cartagena families would come and rent by the hour. Now, tourists stay all day, and many pay in advance. "Tourism gives me more money, but also more stress. Tourists are demanding: they want the umbrella in the front row, they want me to save their spot while they swim, they want me to watch their bags. And if something gets lost, they blame me."
Fun fact
Don Pedro knows all the itinerant vendors on the beach: the coconut candy seller, the beer seller, the massage seller. "We're like a family. We look out for each other. If I see a tourist is drunk and goes into the water, I pull them out. I'm not a lifeguard, but I know how to swim."
How tourism has changed their clientele
The five trades have something in common: they have all seen how mass tourism transformed their clientele. Before, they worked almost exclusively for locals. Now, tourists represent between 30% and 70% of their income, depending on the trade and the season.
But there are also losses. Locals no longer frequent Bocagrande beach as much because it's expensive and full of tourists. Neighbors from the old buildings have moved to other neighborhoods like Manga or El Laguito. And traditional trades, like the knife sharpener or the cobbler, are at risk of disappearing because the new generations don't want to learn them.
"My children don't want to be sharpeners. They want to be engineers or work in a hotel. And I understand them. This trade is hard, it doesn't provide a good living," says Don Álvaro as he puts away his flute. "But as long as I can walk, I'm going to keep playing. It's the only thing I know how to do."
Final reflection: the identity that endures
Bocagrande is today a neighborhood of contrasts. On one side, the skyscrapers, shopping malls, and tourists taking sunset photos. On the other, these five neighbors who keep alive a Cartagena that is almost no longer seen. They are not a tourist attraction or a spectacle. They are people who work, who sweat, who survive.
The next time you walk along Calle 5 or sit on the beach, pay attention. Maybe you'll hear a distant flute, see a man hammering a sole, or smell the scent of green mango. Those are the true neighbors of Bocagrande. And as long as they are still there, the neighborhood will have a soul.
Do you know someone with a unique trade in Bocagrande? Recommend them in the comments for a future installment.
Frequently asked questions
Where can I find Don Álvaro, the knife sharpener?
Don Álvaro walks the streets of Bocagrande, especially Calle 4 and Avenida San Martín, between 7 am and 12 pm. He doesn't have a fixed spot, but if you hear a reed flute, it's him. It is recommended to ask at the buildings on Calle 3, where some neighbors know him and can point you to his location.
Are the prices for these trades fixed or can you haggle?
The prices are for reference, based on July 2026. In general, trades like the cobbler or seamstress have fixed rates (between $8,000 and $30,000 COP), while itinerant vendors like Jairo may accept haggling, especially if you buy multiple portions. Don Pedro, the watchman, also usually negotiates umbrella and chair combos.
Are these trades in danger of disappearing?
Yes, especially the knife sharpener and the cobbler. The new generations are not learning these trades, and local demand has decreased. However, tourism has given them a breather, as some tourists seek authentic and different services. To support them, it is recommended to buy directly from them and avoid haggling too much.
Historical or contextual introduction
Bocagrande has undergone a radical transformation since its beginnings. In the 1960s and 1970s, this sector of Cartagena was a quiet residential area, made up of single-story houses and neighbors who knew everyone by name. With the tourism boom in the 80s, Bocagrande began to change its face, becoming a popular tourist destination full of tall buildings and hotels. However, behind this modern landscape, traditional trades persist that have resisted the onslaught of time and development.
Today, it is possible to find people dedicated to trades that have been part of the community for generations, offering a glimpse into local life that is often overlooked. These trades are not only a means of subsistence but also represent the cultural identity of the area.
If you visit Bocagrande, don't limit yourself to enjoying its beaches and restaurants. Getting to know its inhabitants and their stories will allow you to appreciate the cultural richness that this neighborhood still preserves.
What to do
Visit Bocagrande Beach
Bocagrande Beach is the perfect place to enjoy the sun and sea. Here, itinerant vendors offer everything from refreshments to local handicrafts. Insider Tip: Buy an "arequipe" from a local vendor; it's a typical sweet you can't miss.
Stroll along Avenida San Martín
Avenida San Martín is ideal for walking and enjoying the coastal architecture. This stroll allows you to observe the mix of modern and traditional. Insider Tip: Go at sunset; the view of the sun setting over the sea is spectacular and offers the opportunity to capture impressive photos.
Explore Bazurto Market
This market is a true reflection of Cartagena's culture. Here you can find everything from tropical fruits to fresh fish. Insider Tip: Don't forget to try a "patacón" at one of the small food stalls; it's an authentic flavor that will connect you with the local gastronomy.
Learn about the neighborhood's history
Walking through the streets of Bocagrande will allow you to discover its history before it became the tourist destination it is today. The low houses and public spaces tell stories of its former residents. Insider Tip: Talk to the neighbors; many of them have fascinating anecdotes about the neighborhood and its evolution.
Visit Castillo San Felipe de Barajas
This iconic castle is not in Bocagrande, but it's a short distance away. It is an impressive fortress that offers a panoramic view of the city. Insider Tip: Go early in the morning to avoid the crowds and enjoy a quieter tour.
Where to eat or drink
El Baluarte
This restaurant offers a privileged sea view and a delicious selection of fresh seafood. Don't miss their ceviche, one of the most acclaimed by locals. Insider Tip: Go early to enjoy the sunset; it's the perfect time for a romantic dinner.
Restaurante La Perla
La Perla is famous for its cozy atmosphere and exquisite Caribbean food. Try the rice with coconut and patacones; they are a classic that never disappoints. Insider Tip: If you have the chance, ask about the daily recommendations; there is always something special that isn't on the menu.
Café del Mar
This iconic café is located on the walls of Cartagena and is ideal for a drink in the late afternoon. Their cocktails are well-crafted, and its vibrant atmosphere attracts both tourists and locals. Insider Tip: Arrive before peak hour to get a good spot with a sea view.
La Casa de Socorro
An emblematic place that offers typical dishes of the region, such as ajiaco and sancocho. It is a favorite among Cartagena locals for its authenticity. Insider Tip: If you want a more local experience, ask about the daily menu, which usually includes fresh and tasty options.
Pizza al Horno
Known for its wood-fired pizzas, this place is a refuge for those looking for something different. Their portions are generous and the ingredients are fresh. Insider Tip: The seafood pizza is one of the most popular, but don't forget to try the chicken pesto pizza; it's a guaranteed hit!
How to get there and transportation
To get to Bocagrande, there are several transportation options that allow you to enjoy the journey and learn a bit more about Cartagena. Here are some recommendations:
Public Transportation
Buses and colectivos are an economical and authentic option. From the historic center, you can take a bus that takes you directly to Bocagrande. It's a good opportunity to observe the daily life of Cartagena locals.
Insider Tip: Make sure to have small coins, as many drivers don't have change. Also, avoid peak hours for a more comfortable trip.
Taxi or Moto-taxi
Taxis are a quick and safe alternative, especially if you are traveling in a group. You can also opt for moto-taxis, which are an exciting experience and can take you through narrower streets.
Insider Tip: Always ask them to turn on the meter or agree on the price before starting the trip. Moto-taxis are usually available in the busiest areas.
Bicycle
If you're feeling adventurous, renting a bicycle is an excellent way to explore Bocagrande and its surroundings. There are several companies that offer this service, and the ride along the coast is spectacular.
Insider Tip: Bring sunscreen and water, and don't forget a lock to secure your bicycle while you enjoy a shop or café.
Walking
If you are already in the center of Cartagena, walking to Bocagrande is a viable option. The journey is approximately 30 minutes and allows you to enjoy the architecture and vibrant atmosphere of the city.
Insider Tip: Make a stop at Plaza de la Trinidad to try a refreshing natural juice at one of the local stalls before continuing your way.
Local tips
Exploring Bocagrande is not just about enjoying its beaches and skyscrapers; it's also about discovering trades and traditions that have endured despite tourism. Here are some local tips to connect with the essence of the neighborhood:
Visit the Ceramics Workshop of La Popa
Insider Tip: This workshop offers ceramics classes where you can learn from local masters. Not only will you take home a tangible souvenir, but you will also understand the cultural heritage each piece represents. Ask about the workshop dates, as they are often limited and in high demand.
Try Ajiaco at a family restaurant
Insider Tip: Look for the small family restaurants that still serve this traditional dish. Ask about the grandmother's recipe; many of these places are willing to share the story behind each ingredient. Also, the quality and flavor are usually much more authentic than in touristy places.
Attend a talk about the history of Bocagrande
Insider Tip: Some cultural centers in the neighborhood offer talks about the evolution of Bocagrande from its beginnings to the present. Participating will give you a deeper perspective on the transformation of the place and connect you with the community. Inquire about schedules and availability.
Buy handicrafts at La Casa de la Cultura
Insider Tip: This space not only sells local handicrafts but also organizes events and exhibitions. By buying here, you support the artisans of the region and take home a piece of their history. Don't forget to ask the vendors about the creation process of the pieces.