The Myth of Fritos Only in the Historic Center
If you ask at Plaza de los Coches for the best fritos in Cartagena, they will point you to the stalls that smell of hot oil and where arepas de huevo are stacked like golden towers. And yes, they are delicious. But that is just the gateway to a much deeper, wilder, and tastier universe. Here, in June 2026, true Cartageneros know that the fritos route does not end in the Center or in Bocagrande. The real journey begins when you move away from the noise of the tourist carriages and dive into the neighborhoods where the stove is lit from 5 in the morning and flavor is measured in stories, not Michelin stars.
This article is for you, the gastronomic traveler who is not afraid of sweat or long lines. Here I will take you through three stops that few tour guides dare to include: 'La Mona's smoked fish carimañola in Getsemaní, the iguana empanada in Olaya Herrera, and the extreme chicharrón patacón in El Pozón. But before we start, a fun fact: in Cartagena, the term "frito" is not just an adjective. It is a genre. And each neighborhood has its champion. Get ready to get your hands dirty and understand why locals defend their stalls as if they were family heirlooms.
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Stop 1: 'La Mona's Stall in Getsemaní
Smoked Fish Carimañolas: Grandma's Secret
Getsemaní is the neighborhood that breathes art, backpacks, and backpackers, but if you only stay in Plaza de la Trinidad, you are missing out on the best. Three blocks away, hidden between a hardware store and a corner shop, is 'La Mona's stall. Doña María, known as 'La Mona' since she was twenty, has been frying carimañolas for 35 generations that make you cry with happiness. But not just any carimañola: hers has a smoked fish filling that she prepares herself with bocachico, onion, garlic, and a touch of cumin that only she knows.
The trick is in the dough. La Mona uses local yuca, not the imported kind, and lets it rest overnight so it becomes fluffy on the inside and crispy on the outside. She smokes the fish in an improvised drum behind her house, using guava wood that gives it a sweet aroma that contrasts with the hot oil. Each carimañola costs around $3,500 COP (reference price from June 2026) and is served with a homemade chili sauce that is just spicy enough to wake up your taste buds.
If you arrive after 10 in the morning, there probably won't be any left. La Mona is open Monday to Saturday from 6:30 am until the fish runs out, almost always before noon. The exact address is Calle de la Media Luna, between Carrera 10 and Carrera 11, right next to the store "El Buen Gusto". There is no big sign, just a steaming pot and a line of neighbors looking at you with a "hurry up, stranger" face.
Fun fact: La Mona learned the recipe from her grandmother, who was a fisherwoman in the Ciénaga de la Virgen. Before tourism arrived in Getsemaní, she sold the carimañolas from a canoe. Today, her grandson runs a cart with wheels, but the essence remains the same.
Stop 2: The Iguana Empanada Corner in Olaya Herrera
Pre-Columbian Tradition Surviving the Concrete
If you thought empanadas were only made of meat or chicken, get ready for a trip to the past. In the Olaya Herrera neighborhood, specifically at the corner of Carrera 54 with Calle 31, Doña Rosa has a stall that looks like it came out of a culinary anthropology book. Since 1992, she has been frying iguana empanadas, a tradition that dates back to the Zenú people, the indigenous people who inhabited this region before the Spanish arrived. The iguana, for them, was a sacred and nutritious animal, and its meat remains a delicacy in the rural areas of Bolívar.
Doña Rosa cooks the iguana for hours in a broth with cilantro, onion, and salt, until the meat falls apart. Then she mixes it with hard-boiled egg, olives, and raisins (yes, raisins, because sweet and savory is the house specialty). The dough is made from white corn, ground by hand, and fried in palm oil, which gives it that intense golden color. Each empanada costs $2,500 COP and is eaten with a squeeze of lemon and a pinch of salt. The flavor is mild, slightly sweet, with a texture reminiscent of shredded chicken but firmer.
Do not expect an air-conditioned place. It is a street stall, with a red umbrella and a wooden board where Doña Rosa flattens the empanadas before frying them. She is open Wednesday to Sunday, from 7 am to 2 pm, but if it rains, she closes. Locals know you have to arrive early because the iguana empanadas fly off the shelf. And beware: it is not a dish for all palates, but if you come with an open mind, you will take away a story to tell.
Fun fact: The iguana is considered a protected species in some areas, but in Olaya Herrera it is raised in backyards under a community permit system. Doña Rosa has a small breeding facility at her home, and she assures that the iguanas live better than many farm chickens.
Stop 3: The Secret of Chicharrón Patacones in El Pozón
The Extreme Coastal Version That Leaves You Breathless
El Pozón is the largest neighborhood in Cartagena, and also the most misunderstood. There are no tourists here, but there is street food that will blow your mind. On Calle 45, in front of the "La Esperanza" soccer field, is Don Jairo's stall, a 62-year-old man who has been frying the most brutal patacones you can imagine since 2005. These are not normal green plantain patacones with a little piece of chicharrón on top. # Don Jairo takes a green plantain, flattens it, fries it, flattens it again, fries it again, and then covers it with a mountain of shredded pork chicharrón, bathed in its own fat, and topped with hogao (stewed tomato, onion, and garlic) and a drizzle of suero costeño.
The result is a caloric bomb that leaves you shaking. Each patacón costs $8,000 COP and is so big it could feed two people. Don Jairo serves them on a plastic plate with a napkin that soaks up grease in seconds. The chicharrón is crispy on the outside, soft on the inside, and the plantain serves as a firm base that holds all the weight. You eat it with your hands, of course, and accompany it with an ice-cold Colombiana soda to cut the fat.
Don Jairo is open Tuesday to Sunday, from 4 pm to 10 pm. You should not go earlier because he prepares the chicharrón in the morning and lets it rest to reach the perfect texture. The exact address is Calle 45 # 32-18, but if you ask for "Don Jairo's patacón stall" in El Pozón, any local will point you there. It is a meeting point after work, where people sit on plastic chairs and discuss soccer while they chew.
Fun fact: Don Jairo was a butcher for 20 years, and his secret for the chicharrón is that he fries it twice: first on low heat to render the fat, and then on high heat to make it crispy. He uses free-range pork, not supermarket pork, and buys it directly from a farmer in Turbaco.
Practical Map: How to Get There and Local Hours
How to Get Around Without Getting Lost (and Without Breaking a Sweat)
Cartagena in June 2026 is hot, humid, and full of life. To do this fritos route, you have to plan your day well to avoid the peak heat hours, which are between 11 am and 2 pm. Here is a step-by-step plan:
- Stop 1 - Getsemaní (La Mona): Walk from the Historic Center. It is a 15-minute walk from the Torre del Reloj. Take Calle de la Media Luna and look for the smell of fried yuca. Hours: Monday to Saturday, 6:30 am to 12 pm. Ideal for breakfast.
- Stop 2 - Olaya Herrera (Doña Rosa): Take a bus on the "Olaya" route from Avenida Pedro de Heredia. Get off at the stop at Carrera 54 with Calle 31. Hours: Wednesday to Sunday, 7 am to 2 pm. Arrive before 10 am to secure empanadas.
- Stop 3 - El Pozón (Don Jairo): Take a taxi or mototaxi from the Center. The trip takes 30 minutes. Say you are going to the "La Esperanza" soccer field. Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 4 pm to 10 pm. Perfect for an early dinner.
The ideal order: have breakfast in Getsemaní, lunch in Olaya Herrera, and finish with dinner in El Pozón. But if the heat gets to you, you can reverse the stops. The important thing is not to skip any because each one is a world of its own.
Allergy alert: If you have a fish allergy, avoid La Mona's carimañolas. If you are allergic to eggs or olives, ask about Doña Rosa's empanadas because they contain both. And if you have problems with fat, Don Jairo's patacones are not for you. Better bring an antihistamine just in case.
Local Tips to Enjoy the Route Like a Cartagenero
What Nobody Tells You in the Travel Guides
- Bring cash: None of these stalls accept cards. La Mona's carimañolas cost $3,500, Doña Rosa's empanadas $2,500, and Don Jairo's patacones $8,000. Bring small bills of $2,000 and $5,000.
- Don't wear light-colored clothes: Oil splatters, chili stains, and sweat is relentless. Dress in a dark t-shirt and pants you don't mind getting dirty.
- Ask for the chili on the side: All stalls have their own homemade chili sauce. Try it first without chili to taste the original flavor, then add it little by little. La Mona's is spicier than it looks.
- Bring a water bottle: The heat and fried food will dehydrate you. Buy water at the neighborhood stores, not at tourist stalls, because it is cheaper (around $1,500 COP).
- Don't be afraid to ask: Cartageneros are friendly and like it when foreigners take an interest in their food. If you don't know how to eat something, ask. Doña Rosa will gladly explain that the iguana empanada is eaten with lemon, not ketchup.
- Avoid peak sun hours: Between 11 am and 2 pm the heat is unbearable. Plan your stops to coincide with early morning or late afternoon-evening. Don Jairo opens at 4 pm just as the sun goes down.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it safe to go to Olaya Herrera and El Pozón as a tourist?
Yes, as long as you go with respect and common sense. These neighborhoods are residential and the people are friendly, but they are not tourist areas. Avoid wearing visible jewelry, don't take out your phone on the street unnecessarily, and move around by taxi or mototaxi if you don't know the area well. The stalls we mentioned are on main, busy streets, so there is no major risk if you go during the day. In El Pozón, it is better to arrive before 8 pm to avoid the late night.
Can I find these foods in the Historic Center?
Unlikely. La Mona's smoked fish carimañolas are unique to her stall, although there are similar versions in other parts of Getsemaní. Iguana empanadas are hardly seen in the Center because it is a dish of rural tradition, and Don Jairo's chicharrón patacones are a specialty of El Pozón. If you want the authentic experience, you have to go to the neighborhood. There are no shortcuts.
How much money do I need to do the full route?
With $20,000 COP (approximately 5 dollars) you can afford to try one carimañola, one iguana empanada, and one chicharrón patacón. If you want to repeat or buy more, bring $40,000 COP. Cash is key because there is no card machine at any of the stalls. Also, add the cost of transportation: a bus costs $2,300 COP, a taxi from the Center to El Pozón can cost between $15,000 and $20,000 COP.
Historical or Contextual Introduction
Fritos in Cartagena are more than just a snack; they are a tradition dating back to the colonial era, when slaves and plantation workers needed quick and hearty meals to stave off hunger during their workdays. Over time, these dishes have transformed and diversified, becoming an essential part of Cartagena's gastronomic culture. The frituras, which range from classic arepas de huevo to empanadas and carimañolas, are the result of a fusion of indigenous, African, and Spanish influences, reflecting the city's rich history.
Today, fritos are not only enjoyed on the street or at parties, but have also been integrated into the menus of restaurants seeking to highlight the region's culinary heritage. However, to find the best fritos, it is essential to explore beyond the tourist spots and venture into the streets where locals go about their daily lives.
Visiting the most authentic frito vendors not only guarantees exceptional flavor but also offers an opportunity to interact with the community and learn the story behind each dish. Below are some tips for making the most of this gastronomic experience:
What to Do
La Cevichería
Known for its delicious ceviche, here you can also find fritos that will surprise you. Try the shrimp empanada, a classic you cannot miss.
Insider Tip: Arrive early to avoid the line, especially on weekends, and be sure to ask for a mix of sauces to accompany your fritos.
El Gran Bocado
This place is famous for its variety of fritos, from traditional arepas de huevo to innovative meat empanadas. A true feast for street food lovers.
Insider Tip: Order the arepa de huevo with its special touch of garlic sauce, it will leave you wanting more!
Where to Eat or Drink
La Cevichería
This place is famous not only for its ceviches but also for its fritos, especially the fish ones. The combination of freshness and tradition makes it a must-visit. Insider Tip: Don't leave without trying their famous grouper ceviche as an accompaniment to your fritos; it is an explosion of flavors.
El Boliche Cebichería
Known for its innovative proposals, the fritos here are a delight. They offer fritos made with different fish and seafood, in a cozy atmosphere. Insider Tip: Ask about their homemade sauces; they perfectly complement any dish and enhance the flavors of the sea.
Fritos de la Plaza de los Coches
You cannot miss visiting the iconic frito stalls in this square. The authenticity of the place and the variety of fritos are unmatched. Insider Tip: If you arrive early, try the chicken empanadas; they are especially crispy and tasty.
La Casa de las Empanadas
Another classic in Cartagena, here the empanadas are the star dish, but they also offer delicious fritos. The dough is thin and the filling generous. Insider Tip: Combine the empanadas with a corozo drink; it is a refreshing mix that complements the flavors well.