Introduction: The Carnival You Don't See on Postcards
If you arrived in Cartagena in February or March and only saw the Battle of Flowers in the Centro Histórico, you missed half — or rather, 70% — of the party. The Cartagena Carnival is not just a single parade of floats with queens and intoxicated tourists. That is the official version, sponsored by the Mayor's Office and beer brands. The other carnival, the one that truly moves the city, takes place in the southern neighborhoods: Olaya, Torices, El Pozón, and a dozen other areas that don't appear on tourist maps.
There, among dirt or cracked asphalt streets, the comparsas have been rehearsing for decades to the rhythm of drums made from cowhide and recycled cans. There are no VIP boxes or sound hired by a production company. There is sweat, dust, and a joy that cannot be bought. In June 2026, when you read this, many of these groups will still be active, although each year they struggle against the lack of support and the noise of the commercial carnival. If you want to truly understand Cartagena, you have to go south.
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Why the Official Carnival Isn't the Only One or the Most Authentic
The Mayor's Office of Cartagena promotes a carnival that lasts four days and is concentrated in the Centro Histórico and Bocagrande. The comparsas that parade there are selected, choreographed, and in many cases, paid to participate. The result is a clean, predictable spectacle designed for the visitor who just wants a nice photo. But the real carnival was born in the popular neighborhoods, where people celebrate without permission or budget.
The forgotten comparsas — like "Los Soneros de Olaya", "La Banda de Torices" or "Los Comparsistas de El Pozón" — maintain traditions dating back to the 70s and 80s, when carnivals were spontaneous parades of neighbors dressed in old clothes and cardboard masks. Today, these groups rehearse for months in parks and street corners, and their performances occur on dates that don't coincide with the official calendar. They are more authentic because there is no business involved: just a desire to dance.
A curious fact: in 2023, a comparsa from Olaya called "Los Tambores de la Esperanza" refused to parade in el Centro because they were offered a payment that barely covered the musicians' transportation. They preferred to do their own route through the neighborhood, where people gave them food and beer. That is the other carnival.
Map of the Southern Neighborhoods That Host Historic Comparsas
So you can get your bearings, the south of Cartagena is not a tourist area. They are residential neighborhoods, some with security issues, but full of cultural life. Here are the key points where you will find active comparsas. Don't expect signage or fixed schedules; the best way is to ask at the neighborhood stores or churches.
Olaya: The Heart of the Tambora
Olaya is, without question, the epicenter of the alternative carnival. The San José de los Campanos sector and the field on Calle 31 are the places where several comparsas gather. "Los Tambores de Olaya" is the oldest group, founded in 1985. They rehearse on Saturdays at 4 pm, and anyone can come, as long as they respect the rhythm. There is no registration or cost. Just bring a willingness to sweat.
Approximate address: Calle 31 with Carrera 18, in front of the store "Donde Lucho". Ask for Don Carlos, the director of the comparsa. If you can't find him, look for the smell of fried food: the meeting point is nearby.
Torices: The Cradle of Recycled Costumes
Torices is famous for its comparsas that use recycled materials. "Los Recicladores del Ritmo" make drums from oil cans and costumes from plastic bags. They rehearse in the main park of Torices, on Sundays at 3 pm. The atmosphere is family-friendly: there are children, grandparents, and stray dogs that join the dance.
Practical tip: if you bring a bottle of water or a pack of cookies to share, you will earn the group's trust. It's not mandatory, but it helps.
El Pozón: The Biggest, The Most Forgotten
El Pozón is the most populous neighborhood in Cartagena, with over 200,000 inhabitants. Here the comparsas are massive, but almost no one documents them. "Los Comparsistas de El Pozón" parade along Avenida del Lago every Saturday before the official carnival. The route starts at the entrance of the neighborhood (in front of the "Plaza del Sur" shopping center) and ends at the field of the Santa María Urbanization. It's about 20 blocks of pure noise.
Warning: the parade ends late, around 9 pm. If you don't know the area, leave before nightfall or go in a group. It's not dangerous if you're with locals, but I don't recommend walking alone after 8 pm.
Other Neighborhoods Worth Visiting
- San Fernando: comparsa "Los Herederos de la Tradición", rehearse on Fridays at the San Fernando school field.
- La Candelaria: women's group "Las Candelarias", rehearse Tuesdays and Thursdays at the neighborhood cultural center.
- Nelson Mandela: youth comparsa "Los Nuevos Tambores", rehearse in the central park on Saturdays at 5 pm.
Calendar of Open Rehearsals and Community Parades
This is the most valuable part of the article. The community rehearsals and parades do not follow the official carnival calendar. Most occur between January and March, but some groups rehearse all year round. Based on verified information from 2025 and projections for 2026, here is the general calendar:
- January (Saturdays): rehearsals in Olaya and Torices. Open to the public. Wear comfortable clothes and closed-toe shoes.
- February (Weekends): parades prior to the official carnival. El Pozón does its route on the Saturday before Ash Wednesday.
- March (First Sunday): "Carnaval de los Barrios" in Olaya, an unofficial parade that brings together 10 comparsas. Free entry.
- June (2026): some groups hold summer rehearsals. "Los Tambores de Olaya" usually have open sessions on Saturdays at 5 pm. It is recommended to check their social media (look for them as "Tambores de Olaya" on Facebook).
Price: all community rehearsals and parades are free. There is no ticketing. If someone asks you for money, they might be an opportunist; ask the neighbors before paying.
How to Get to and Move Between These Neighborhoods Safely
Getting to the south of Cartagena is easy if you use public transportation. I don't recommend renting a car because traffic is heavy and parking is scarce. Here are your options:
- City bus: from the Centro Histórico, take the "Olaya" or "Torices" route at the Transport Terminal on Calle 30. The fare is around $2,800 COP (reference prices from June 2026). Ask the driver if it passes by the main field.
- Taxi or Uber: from Bocagrande to Olaya is about 20 minutes and costs between $15,000 and $25,000 COP. Negotiate the price before getting in if it's a taxi.
- Mototaxi: it's the fastest option to move between neighborhoods. It costs $3,000 to $5,000 COP per short trip. Make sure the driver has a helmet for you.
Safety tip: travel in a group, avoid showing expensive cameras on the street, and don't carry a large backpack. The southern neighborhoods are safe during the day if you act respectfully, but at night things change. If you go to a rehearsal that ends late, coordinate a taxi back from the meeting point.
Recommendations for Integrating Without Being Intrusive
You are not a tourist when you enter a southern comparsa. You are a guest. The difference is subtle but important. Here are the unwritten rules:
- Clothing: don't wear flashy costumes or brand-name clothes. White t-shirt, old jeans, and sneakers. If you want to join the rhythm, bring a bandana for your head or a colored shirt that doesn't scream "I'm a foreigner".
- Language: learn at least three words: "bacano" (good, great), "chévere" (cool), and "parce" (friend). Don't use slang from other countries like "chévere" if you are Argentine (it means something else there). Always say "thank you" and "please".
- Respect: don't record without permission. Ask the musicians if you can film. Many will say yes, but if someone refuses, put your phone away. Also, don't criticize the sound or organization; these groups work with minimal resources.
- Participate: if you are invited to dance, do it. It doesn't matter if you don't know how. Making mistakes is part of the party. If you play a drum, do it softly at first; the local drummers will correct you with a smile.
A detail few know: in the southern comparsas, offering food or drink is a gesture of brotherhood. If someone gives you a glass of panela water or a piece of yucca, accept it. Refusing it is interpreted as disdain.
Local Tips You Won't Read in Official Guides
- The best day to go: Saturdays at 4 pm. That's when most groups rehearse and there's less risk of rain (the dry season runs from December to March).
- Bring cash: in the southern neighborhoods, card machines don't exist. You'll need small bills to buy water, empanadas, or pay for the mototaxi.
- Don't wear strong perfume: the smell of sweat and drum is part of the experience. Perfume can be bothersome in enclosed spaces.
- Connect with local leaders: look for Facebook groups like "Cultura Viva de Olaya" or "Torices Tradicional". They post rehearsal schedules and last-minute events there.
- Street food: before or after the rehearsal, try the egg empanadas at the corner of the field. They cost $2,000 COP each and are better than the ones in the Centro.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is It Safe to Go to These Neighborhoods as a Foreigner?
Yes, if you follow basic precautions. Go during the day, in a group, and don't wear jewelry or expensive equipment in plain sight. The southern neighborhoods are no more dangerous than any popular area in a Latin American city. The people are hospitable, but you should avoid lonely streets after 7 pm. If you have doubts, contact a comparsa leader before going; they usually welcome visitors gladly.
Can I Join a Comparsa as a Musician or Dancer If I'm Not from Cartagena?
Of course. Most comparsas accept volunteers, especially if you play a percussion instrument or have rhythm. You don't need previous experience. Arrive at the rehearsal, introduce yourself to the director, and say you want to learn. If you are consistent, they will adopt you as one of their own. Some groups will even lend you a drum if you don't have one.
Are There Specific Dates to See Community Parades Outside the Official Carnival?
Yes, but they are not centralized. The biggest parades occur in January and February, but throughout the year there are sporadic events like "El Festival de la Tambora" in Olaya (usually in August) or "La Noche de los Disfraces" in Torices (in October). The best way to find out is to follow the comparsas' social media or ask at neighborhood stores when you visit. There is no official website that groups them together.
Experience the Carnival from Within: Sign Up for a Local Comparsa Workshop Before You Travel
If this article sparked your interest, don't wait until you get to Cartagena to improvise. Several southern groups offer virtual or in-person workshops to learn tambora rhythms, traditional dance, or recycled costume making. Look up "Tambores de Olaya" or "Comparsistas del Pozón" on Instagram and write to them. Many of them reply to messages and can guide you on how to join a specific rehearsal. You can also contact the "Raíces de Torices" Cultural Foundation, which organizes open workshops every month.
The next time you think about the Cartagena Carnival, remember that the real party is not in the Instagram photos of the Centro Histórico. It is in the dust of Olaya, in the sweat of Torices, and in the drums of El Pozón. They are waiting for you there with open arms and a smile that needs no translation.
What to Do
The Route of the Comparsas in Getsemaní
Walk the streets of this iconic neighborhood where the comparsas come to life with the rhythms of cumbia and porros. The energy of the inhabitants and their commitment to tradition can be felt on every corner. Insider Tip: Don't miss the neighborhood parade on Saturday afternoon, where local groups showcase their creativity and passion. Bring your camera, the costumes are spectacular!
The Neighborhood Carnival in San Francisco
This often-overlooked neighborhood offers an authentic carnival where the community comes together to celebrate. The comparsas here are more than a spectacle; they are a deep cultural expression. Insider Tip: Find a spot in the main square to enjoy the live music and don't hesitate to join the dances, the locals will be delighted to teach you some steps!
Party in the La Heroica Neighborhood
La Heroica is known for its vibrant atmosphere during the carnival, where comparsas parade through streets adorned with colorful banners and lights. This is an ideal place to experience the fusion of tradition and modernity. Insider Tip: Try the delicious fried foods sold at local stalls while enjoying the parade. The taste of carnival is also in the food!
Where to Eat or Drink
El Boliche Cebichería
Located in the Olaya neighborhood, this place is known for its delicious ceviches and fresh seafood dishes. The atmosphere is relaxed and authentic, ideal for enjoying after a day of carnival. Insider Tip: Try the shrimp ceviche with mango, which is a favorite among locals and perfectly captures the freshness of the Caribbean coast.
La Casa de la Cerveza
This is an excellent place to enjoy a good local beer and typical dishes. It is located in the Getsemaní neighborhood, a vibrant area full of art and culture. Insider Tip: Don't leave without trying the arepa de huevo, a classic Cartagena dish that pairs perfectly with any drink.
La Pérgola
In the San Diego sector, La Pérgola offers a mix of Colombian and Caribbean cuisine. Its atmosphere is cozy and perfect for dinner after a day of festivities. Insider Tip: Check the daily menu, as they often offer special dishes that highlight local flavors and are prepared with fresh ingredients.
Restaurante La Mulata
This restaurant is famous for its focus on local cuisine, offering dishes ranging from ajiaco to sancocho. Located near the Parque de la Marina, it is ideal for lunch between comparsas. Insider Tip: Be sure to try their coconut lemonade, a refreshing drink that is a hit with visitors and locals alike.