The 'Casabe' Route: Where to Buy Artisanal Cassava Bread in Cartagena's Informal Markets

Introduction: Casabe, the Ancestral Bread Cartageneros Hide from Tourists

If you arrive in Cartagena and order cassava bread at a restaurant in the Ciudad Amurallada, chances are you'll be served a round, fluffy bun baked with cheese. That is not casabe. Casabe is something else: a flat, crispy, lightly toasted cake made from grated and pressed cassava, without wheat flour or yeast. It is a bread that comes from the Zenú indigenous people, who prepared it centuries ago to withstand the humid heat of the Caribbean. And although it is now available in supermarkets, the artisanal version, sold in Cartagena's informal markets, is the one that tastes like tradition.

As of June 2026, reference prices for a package of artisanal casabe range from $3,000 to $5,000 COP (less than 1.5 USD), depending on size and location. But don't be fooled: not all casabe is the same. The one you find in neighborhood stores is usually industrial, dry, and bland. The real one, made by hand, is sold at street stalls and informal markets, where vendors toast it on clay budares and wrap it in plantain leaves. This guide takes you on the casabe route in Cartagena: where to buy it, how to eat it, and why it's worth leaving the tourist zone to try it.

What to Do: The Casabe Route in the Informal Markets

For a foodie, exploring the informal markets of Cartagena is like entering a living museum of flavors. But you need to know where to start. Here is the step-by-step itinerary, from the most adventurous to the most relaxed.

Starting Point: Mercado de Bazurto (For the Brave Only)

If you want the most authentic experience, go to Mercado de Bazurto. It is located at Carrera 17 with Calle 31, in the Bazurto neighborhood, about 15 minutes by taxi from the Centro Histórico. It is not a place for novice tourists: it is noisy, chaotic, smells of fresh fish and ripe fruit, and you need to watch your belongings. But it is there that you find the freshest casabe, made by women who come from towns like Arjona or Turbaco.

In Bazurto, look for the stalls in the "Plaza de las Yucas," a section where they sell cassava, yam, and plantain. There, several ladies offer freshly made casabe, wrapped in plastic bags or bijao leaves. Ask for "casabe de mantequilla" (which has a touch of fat to make it softer) or "casabe natural." A 250-gram package costs around $4,000 COP. Tip: go early, before 9 a.m., when the casabe is hottest.

Fun fact: in Bazurto, some vendors still use clay budares to toast casabe, a pre-Columbian technique that few people preserve. If you see a lady with a black, smoking budare, don't hesitate to buy from her.

The Unexpected Stop: Vendors on Avenida Pedro de Heredia

If Bazurto seems too intense, there is a middle-ground option: Avenida Pedro de Heredia, one of the main roads connecting el Centro with the southern neighborhoods. Between streets 30 and 40, especially near Portal de la 34, there are street vendors who set up improvised stalls with casabe, cassava buns, and arepas de huevo. They don't have a fixed schedule, but they are usually there from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m., Monday through Saturday.

The casabe here is more expensive than in Bazurto (about $5,000 COP per package), but the quality is similar. The good thing is you can buy quickly without getting into the market chaos. Also, many of these vendors also sell suero costeño (a fermented, acidic, and thick milk cream) and salty queso costeño, which are the classic accompaniments for casabe.

Ask for "casabe de coco": a variant that some ladies prepare by grating fresh coconut into the cassava dough. It is less common, but if you find it, buy it without hesitation.

Safe Alternative: The Market at Plaza de la Trinidad in Getsemaní

For those who prefer a quieter, more tourist-friendly atmosphere, the Market at Plaza de la Trinidad, in the Getsemaní neighborhood, is perfect. This market sets up on weekends (Saturdays and Sundays, from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.) in the main square, a few blocks from the Torre del Reloj. It is smaller than Bazurto, but equally authentic, with stalls selling fruits, vegetables, and artisanal products.

There, look for Doña Matilde's stall, a lady who has been selling casabe for over 20 years. Her casabe is famous among locals because she makes it with yuca brava (the bitter variety that requires more processing) and toasts it on an electric budare she adapted herself. A 300-gram package costs $5,500 COP. She also sells sweet cassava buns and corn buns, ideal as accompaniments.

The best part about Plaza de la Trinidad is that you can sit on the benches in the square, surrounded by colorful murals, and eat your casabe with a black coffee from the street vendors. It is a more social and less stressful experience.

Where to Eat or Drink: How to Eat Casabe and Where to Buy Accompaniments

Casabe is not eaten alone. In Cartagena, it is accompanied by ingredients that enhance its neutral, crispy flavor. Here are the most popular local recipes and where to get the ingredients in the same markets.

Casabe with Queso Costeño

Queso costeño is a white, salty, firm cheese that crumbles easily. To eat it, break off a piece of casabe, put a piece of cheese on top, and bite into it. The contrast between the crunch and the saltiness is addictive. In Bazurto, queso costeño is sold in the "Plaza de los Quesos," an aisle full of stalls offering cheeses from Sincelejo and Montería. A 500-gram block costs about $8,000 COP. You can also find it at Plaza de la Trinidad, at Doña Matilde's stall.

Casabe with Suero Costeño

Suero costeño is a sour cream used as a sauce. It is spread on the casabe like butter. It is perfect for balancing the bread's dryness. In the markets, suero is sold in recycled plastic bottles, for about $4,000 COP per liter. Ask for "suero atollabuey," which is thicker and more acidic. If you can't find it, at Plaza de la Trinidad they sometimes sell packaged versions from local brands like "Suero de la Costa."

Casabe with Honey or Panela

For a sweet touch, casabe is eaten with honey or with raspadura de panela (unrefined brown sugar). In Bazurto, there are stalls selling artisanal honey from the Montes de María. A 250 ml jar costs $10,000 COP. You can also buy panela in blocks (about $2,000 COP each) and grate it over the casabe.

Where to Buy Accompaniments in the Markets

• In Bazurto: Look for the "Plaza de los Lácteos" for cheese and suero; the "Plaza de las Frutas" for honey and panela.
• On Avenida Pedro de Heredia: The vendors usually sell cheese and suero at the same stall as the casabe.
• At Plaza de la Trinidad: Doña Matilde sometimes has suero and cheese, but if not, there is a store next to the church that sells coastal products.

How to Get There and Transportation

Getting to these markets is easy if you know how to get around Cartagena. Here are your options:

• To Mercado de Bazurto: Take a taxi from the Centro Histórico. The trip costs between $10,000 and $15,000 COP (prices as of June 2026). Tell the taxi driver "me deja en la entrada de Bazurto, por la Carrera 17." You can also take a city bus (route "Bazurto" or "Ternera") from Avenida Venezuela, but I don't recommend it if you don't know the city.
• To Avenida Pedro de Heredia: Walk from the Centro to Carrera 34 (15 minutes) or take a taxi for $8,000 COP. The vendors are between streets 30 and 40, so get off at the intersection of Carrera 34 and Calle 34.
• To Plaza de la Trinidad: It is in Getsemaní, a 10-minute walk from the Torre del Reloj. Just walk along Calle del Guerrero until you reach the square. No taxi needed.

Local Tips

• Bring cash: In the informal markets, they don't accept cards or Nequi at all stalls. Bring small bills of $2,000, $5,000, and $10,000 COP.
• Don't buy packaged casabe in supermarkets: Industrial casabe (brands like "Casabe del Caribe") is dry and flavorless. Artisanal casabe is moister and has a toasted aroma that you can't get from a factory.
• Ask for "de la semana" casabe: In Bazurto, vendors make casabe on Mondays and Thursdays. If you go on those days, you'll get the freshest.
• Use a reusable bag: Casabe breaks easily. Bring your own cloth bag to prevent it from crumbling on the way.
• Don't be fooled by restaurants' "pan de yuca": If a restaurant offers you "pan de yuca," ask if it is casabe or a bun. The bun is soft and moist; casabe is crispy. Both are made from cassava, but they are not the same.
• Try casabe with fried fish: In Bazurto, you can buy fried mojarra (about $12,000 COP) and eat it with casabe. It is a typical lunch for market workers.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does casabe contain gluten?

Traditional casabe is made 100% with grated cassava, without wheat, corn, or any gluten-containing grain. It is suitable for celiacs, but make sure the stall hasn't contaminated the casabe with other products (like corn arepas) on the same budare.

How long does fresh casabe last?

Artisanal casabe, without preservatives, lasts 3 to 5 days at room temperature, as long as you store it in a dry place in a sealed bag. If refrigerated, it can last up to 2 weeks, but it loses its crunchiness. To restore it, toast the sheets in a dry skillet for 2 minutes.

Can I take casabe on the plane back home?

Yes, casabe is considered a dry, non-perishable food, so you can take it in your carry-on or checked luggage. However, wrap it well in plastic so it doesn't break. International customs usually don't have issues, but check the regulations of your destination country for plant-based foods.