Origins
If there is a place in Cartagena that holds more stories than it tells, it is the Fuerte de San Sebastián de Pastelillo. Most tourists know it as a restaurant with a sea view or an event venue, but few know that beneath its coral and limestone walls, in its darkest depths, there were cells where everyone from pirates to political prisoners were locked up. And today, in 2026, those same cells have become one of the most unusual accommodations in the city.
The fort was built between 1568 and 1573, just a few decades after the founding of Cartagena. It was not a main fortification like the Castillo de San Felipe, but a secondary bastion designed to protect the entrance to the inner bay. Its original name, San Sebastián, came from the patron saint of soldiers. The "Pastelillo" part came later, from a neighboring farm that produced yuca and corn pastries. The locals, with their coastal humor, ended up calling the fort after the bakery next door.
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During the 17th and 18th centuries, the fort witnessed attacks by English and French privateers. But its most macabre use came in the 19th century, when the republican government turned it into a military prison. The dungeons, excavated from the coral rock, measured barely two meters by one and a half meters. Without ventilation, with salitre seeping through the walls and the sound of the sea crashing against the rocks, they were a damp, dark hell. There they locked up insubordinate soldiers, deserters, and occasionally, pirates captured at sea.
What few know is that in 1821, after independence, the fort served as a prison for royalist officers who refused to swear allegiance to the Republic of Gran Colombia. One of them, the Spanish captain José María de la Torre, wrote in his diary: "These cells are tombs with a sea view. The only comfort is hearing the waves and knowing that out there, there is freedom." That diary, according to local guides, was found during the restoration of the fort in 2019.
Timeline or Historical Milestones
1568-1573: Construction of the Fort
Italian military engineer Juan Bautista Antonelli designs the fort as part of Cartagena's defensive system. Coral stones extracted from the same bay and mortar made of lime and seashells are used. It originally had 12 cannons and a garrison of 50 soldiers.
1586: Attack by Francis Drake
The English privateer passes in front of the fort without attempting to take it, but its cannons fire the first shots of the battle. Drake sacks Cartagena and demands a ransom of 107,000 gold ducats. The fort is damaged but not destroyed.
1741: Defense against Edward Vernon
During the Battle of Cartagena de Indias, the fort withstands the bombardment of the English fleet. The defenders, led by Blas de Lezo, use the fort as an observation and artillery firing point. The underground cells serve as a refuge for gunpowder and the wounded.
1811-1821: Republican Military Prison
After independence, the fort becomes a prison. More cells are excavated into the rock to house political and military prisoners. It is estimated that up to 300 men were locked up there in inhumane conditions.
1900-1980: Abandonment and Deterioration
The fort falls into disuse. The cells fill with rubble, salitre eats away at the walls, and tropical vegetation invades the walls. For decades, only fishermen and the curious visit it. Some locals say it served as a hideout for liquor and cigarette smugglers.
1995: Declared a Cultural Heritage Site
The Colombian government declares the fort a cultural heritage site. The first archaeological excavations begin. Remains of colonial pottery, cannonballs, and, in one of the cells, a skeleton with shackles on its ankles are found.
2019-2023: Restoration and Hotel Transformation
A group of local investors, in partnership with the Ministry of Culture, begins the restoration of the fort. The original idea was to turn it into a museum, but Cartagena-born architect Javier Martínez proposed something bolder: transforming the cells into luxury suites while preserving the original structure. After four years of work, in December 2023, "Pastelillo Suites" opens, a boutique hotel with only 5 rooms.
June 2026: Current Operation
Today, the fort operates as a hotel-restaurant with capacity for 10 guests. The suites in the ancient cells are booked months in advance. Reference prices for June 2026 range from $450,000 to $1,200,000 COP per night, depending on the season and the suite.
Key Figures or Events
Juan Bautista Antonelli: The Italian Engineer
Born in Gatteo, Italy, Antonelli was responsible for designing much of Cartagena's defensive system. He arrived in America in 1568 hired by the Spanish Crown. His obsession with geometry and resistance led him to design forts that seemed to grow out of the rock itself. In Pastelillo, he used a technique called "talud" (batter), where the walls slope inward to better absorb the impact of cannon fire. He died in Cartagena in 1588, poor and forgotten.
Blas de Lezo: The One-Eyed, Lame, and One-Armed Admiral
The legendary Spanish sailor, famous for defending Cartagena in 1741, used the Fuerte de San Sebastián as a secondary command post during the battle. It is said that from there he observed the advance of the English fleet and gave the order to sink his own ships to block the entrance to the bay. A plaque in the fort commemorates his passage, although many tourists walk past without noticing it.
José María de la Torre: The Captive Captain
This Spanish officer, captured in 1821, spent 8 months locked in one of the cells. His diary, found in 2019, describes how he survived by eating dried fish and drinking coconut water that the guards passed to him in exchange for gold coins. In its pages, he mentions a secret tunnel connecting the cell to the sea, used to smuggle prisoners out or bring contraband in. Archaeologists confirmed the tunnel's existence in 2020, but it is sealed for safety.
Doña Pastora Mendoza: The Bakery Owner
A lesser-known but fundamental figure in local history. Doña Pastora was a widow who, in the 19th century, set up a bakery on a plot of land next to the fort. Her yuca pastries stuffed with shredded meat became famous among soldiers and prisoners. Over time, people started saying "let's go to Pastora's place next to the fort" and then simply "let's go to Pastelillo." The name stuck to the fort and never left.
Current State
The Restored Cells: From Dungeons to Suites
Today, the five original cells have been converted into suites that preserve the essence of the place. The coral stone walls are exposed, but king-size beds with linen sheets, silent air conditioning, and private bathrooms with rain-effect showers have been installed. Each cell has a bronze plaque telling the story of the prisoner who occupied it, based on historical archives found during the restoration.
The most famous suite is the "Celda del Capitán" (Captain's Cell), the same one where José María de la Torre was held. It is 25 square meters, has a large window overlooking the Caribbean Sea, and a replica of the captain's diary on the nightstand. Guests can leaf through it (with white gloves, of course) while listening to the sound of the waves. The price for this suite in high season is $1,200,000 COP per night, including breakfast and access to the secret tunnel (more on this below).
The Guest Experience
Staying at the Fuerte de San Sebastián de Pastelillo is not like staying at any other hotel. Here, the experience begins from the moment you arrive. There is no reception with a marble counter or a glass elevator. Instead, a period-costumed guide greets you with an oil lantern and leads you through a passage lit by candles to your cell.
Every morning at 7:00 am, a simulated cannon shot (without gunpowder, just a sound system synchronized with speakers) wakes the guests. It is a tradition the hotel maintains to remember the days when the fort defended the city. Early risers can go up to the cannon terrace and watch the sunrise over the bay while sipping coffee with arepa de huevo.
Pirate legends are part of the menu. Guides tell stories of ghosts that still roam the hallways, like "El Tuerto" (The One-Eyed Man), a soldier who lost an eye in the 1741 battle and who, they say, appears on full moon nights smoking a cigar. There is no evidence of this, but guests can request a nighttime visit to the secret tunnel, where footsteps and whispers are said to be heard.
The Secret Tunnel to the Sea
This is, without a doubt, the hotel's biggest attraction. The tunnel, 40 meters long and barely one meter wide, connects the captain's cell to a small sandy cove on the bay. It was discovered in 2020 during excavations. Archaeologists believe it was used to smuggle out high-value prisoners or bring in supplies without the guards noticing. Today, guests of the Captain's Suite can walk through the tunnel (with a helmet and flashlight) to the cove, where there is a hammock and a cooler with cold beers. It is, literally, an escape route with a sea view.
Services and Practical Recommendations
- Location: The fort is on the island of Manga, a 10-minute taxi ride from the Historic Center. The exact address is Calle 24 # 18-60, Manga.
- Prices: Suites range from $450,000 COP (standard cell, no sea view) to $1,200,000 COP (Captain's Suite, with tunnel access). Prices are reference for June 2026 and may vary by season. It is recommended to check directly with the hotel.
- Reservations: Only 5 suites available, so you must book at least 2 months in advance. Reservations can be made through the hotel's website or by calling the reception. It is not available on platforms like Booking or Airbnb; booking is direct.
- What to bring: Light clothing, mosquito repellent (there are many at sunset), and a small flashlight for exploring the hallways. The hotel does not have wifi in the cells (part of the "disconnect" experience), but there is a signal on the terrace.
- Hours: The fort's restaurant is open to the public from 12:00 pm to 10:00 pm, but guests have 24/7 access to common areas. Breakfast is served from 7:30 am to 9:30 am on the cannon terrace.
- Fun fact: During the restoration, a glass bottle buried in one of the walls was found with a message inside. It said: "If you are reading this, it is too late. The English are coming." It is believed to be a joke by an 18th-century soldier. The bottle is on display at the reception.
The Restaurant: Dining with History
The fort also has a restaurant serving Caribbean cuisine with colonial influences. The star dish is the "Arroz del Pirata" (Pirate's Rice), a rice with shrimp, squid, and coconut that, according to the menu, was Blas de Lezo's favorite dish. They also offer red snapper ceviche and desserts like the "Pastel de Pastora" (Pastora's Cake), a yuca sponge cake with arequipe that recalls the pastries that gave the fort its name. Prices are moderate: main courses between $35,000 and $65,000 COP.
Verdict: Is It Worth It?
If you are the type of traveler who gets bored in chain hotels with infinity pools and smoothie bars, this place is for you. Sleeping in a 16th-century cell, with the sound of the sea in the background and the chance to walk through a secret tunnel, is an experience you won't find anywhere else. It is not for everyone: the rooms are small (they were cells, after all), there is no television, and wifi is limited. But if what you are looking for is to feel history in your bones, wake up to a cannon shot, and drink coffee while looking at the same sea that pirates saw 400 years ago, then this is your place.
Book your cell at the fort before the 5 available suites sell out; history awaits you.