La Boquilla: Beyond the Tourist Resorts, the Hidden Fishermen's Village
If you arrive in Cartagena and get fed up with the inflated prices of Bocagrande, the noise of the historic center, and the street vendors who won't leave you alone, there is a place just 15 minutes away by bus that will restore your faith in the Caribbean coast. La Boquilla is not just another resort with rented umbrellas and loud music. It is a fishermen's village that still preserves the smell of saltpeter, the sound of canoes bumping against the dock, and the slow rhythm of those who live off the sea. Here, the houses are not luxury hotels or modern apartments. They are wooden stilt houses, some lovingly renovated, others more rustic, but all with a feature that makes them unique: they are built over the water, with hammocks hanging on the balconies and canoes tied up at the entrance.
The history of La Boquilla dates back to Afro-descendant communities who arrived fleeing slavery and found a perfect refuge in the Ciénaga de la Virgen. Today, its inhabitants still fish for snapper, snook, and shrimp in wooden canoes, exactly as their grandparents did. But for a few years now, some fishermen and their families have started renting out their houses, or rooms within them, to travelers looking for something more authentic than an infinity pool. In June 2026, this trend remains a well-kept secret, far from the mass tourist circuits.
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What makes La Boquilla special is not the infrastructure. It is the possibility of literally sleeping over the water, with the sway of the waves rocking your hammock, and waking up to the smell of fried fish prepared by the lady of the house. There is no fast wifi, no central air conditioning, but there is a full moon reflected in the swamp and a silence broken only by the birds. If you are the kind of traveler who prefers a real experience to a pretty Instagram photo, this place is for you.
How to Find Renovated Fishermen's Houses: Hidden Platforms and Direct Contacts
Don't expect to find these houses on Booking or Expedia with fancy names. Most have no website or professional photos. The best way is to contact the Asociación de Pescadores de La Boquilla directly, a community organization that manages the rental of several traditional houses. You can go to the village and ask for them at the main dock, or search for their # on local social media. Another option is Airbnb, but filtered by "rural accommodation" or "fisherman's house" in the La Boquilla area. There you will find a few options, usually managed by families who have renovated their houses with private bathrooms and basic kitchens, but maintaining the original stilt house structure.
There are three types of accommodation you can get:
- Room in a family home: You rent a room inside a fisherman's family home. You share the bathroom and kitchen, but you gain access to their daily life: you see how they prepare sancocho, you learn to clean fish, and maybe they invite you to dinner. Prices between 40,000 and 70,000 COP per night per person, depending on the season.
- Renovated entire house: Some houses have been adapted for tourists, with a private bathroom, hammocks on the terrace, and a small kitchen. They usually have capacity for 4-6 people. Reference prices in June 2026: between 150,000 and 250,000 COP per night for the whole house.
- Rustic stilt house without services: The most adventurous option. A wooden house over the water, without 24-hour electricity (only basic solar panels) and a dry toilet. Ideal for backpackers who want to disconnect completely. Prices from 30,000 COP per night, but you need to bring a flashlight, repellent, and patience.
To negotiate, the best thing is to go directly to the village a day before and talk to the owners. The fishermen are honest and direct people: don't expect aggressive bargaining, but you can ask for a discount if you stay more than three nights. You can also contact them via WhatsApp if you find the # on posters stuck on the dock. Avoid intermediaries who are not from the community; the money should go directly to the families.
Life in the House: Sleeping in a Hammock Over the Water, Waking to the Seagulls' Song, and Going Fishing with the Locals
You arrive at the house and the first thing you notice is the smell: a mix of salt, wet wood, and a hint of boat gasoline. The wooden floor creaks under your feet. The hammock is hung on the balcony, right over the water. You lie down and feel the fresh wind from the swamp hit your face. There is no television, no noise from motorcycles. Only the lapping of the waves against the stilts and, in the background, the song of the seagulls and pelicans passing in formation.
Breakfast is simple: arepa de huevo, coffee with panela, and maybe a piece of costeño cheese they bought at the village store. The lady of the house, Doña María or Don Pedro, offers you a canoe ride through the swamp. It is not a tourist tour with speakers and music. It is rowing slowly, with a wooden oar, while they point out the mangroves and tell you how they catch shrimp with a cast net. If you are lucky, they take you to the mouth of the swamp, where the fresh water meets the Caribbean Sea, and you see the fishermen casting their nets at dawn.
In the afternoon, you can borrow a fishing rod and sit on the dock to try to catch something for dinner. The locals teach you how to bait the hook with fresh shrimp. It doesn't matter if you don't catch anything: the sunset over the swamp, with the orange sun reflected in the still water, is worth all the effort. At nightfall, they light a kerosene lamp and sit down to tell stories of caimans, storms at sea, and how the village has changed over the years.
What to Do Around: Mangroves, Birdwatching, and Seafood Cooking with the Village Grandmothers
La Boquilla is not just the house. The surroundings are a paradise for those who love nature without filters. Here is what to do:
- Canoe ride through the mangroves: Hire a local fisherman to take you through the channels of the Ciénaga de la Virgen. You will see red, black, and white mangroves, and if you are in season (between December and March), herons, ibises, and even flamingos. The ride lasts between 1 and 2 hours and costs about 20,000 COP per person. There is no fixed schedule; it is done when the water is calm.
- Birdwatching: The swamp is an important wetland for migratory birds. Bring binoculars if you have them. The most common species are the kingfisher, the great egret, and the cormorant. The best time is at dawn, between 5:30 and 7:00 am.
- Cooking with the grandmothers: Some families offer traditional cooking classes. You learn to make arroz con coco, fried fish in palm oil, patacones, and the essential suero costeño. Everything is cooked on a wood fire. Ask at the Asociación de Pescadores; they usually charge around 30,000 COP per person and includes the meal.
- La Boquilla Beach: It is not the cleanest in Cartagena, but it has its charm. The sea is calm and there are fewer people than in Bocagrande. However, bring your own umbrella and water, because there are no fancy restaurants on the shore. Only stalls selling cold coconut water and fried fish.
Practical Tips: How to Negotiate the Rental, Transport from the City, and What to Bring
So that the experience doesn't become a headache, keep this in mind:
- Transport from Cartagena: From the historic center, take a bus that says "La Boquilla" or "Crespo" on Avenida Santander. The fare costs 2,500 COP. The trip takes about 20-30 minutes, depending on traffic. You can also take a taxi for about 15,000-20,000 COP. The bus drops you off at the entrance of the village; from there you walk 5 minutes to the dock.
- What to bring: Mosquito repellent (mandatory, especially at dusk), flashlight or headlamp, biodegradable sunscreen (to avoid damaging the swamp), light cotton clothing, a raincoat in case it rains (November to May is the rainy season), and cash. There are no ATMs in La Boquilla; the closest one is in the Crespo neighborhood, 10 minutes away by bus.
- Negotiation: The prices I mentioned are reference prices for June 2026. Always ask if it includes sheets, towels, and access to the kitchen. If you stay more than 3 nights, ask for a 10-15% discount. Families value long stays because it gives them stable income.
- Schedules and meals: Most houses do not have a restaurant. You can cook for yourself in the shared kitchen, or order food from the family. A typical lunch (fried fish, coconut rice, patacones, and salad) costs between 12,000 and 18,000 COP. Dinner is usually lighter: fish soup or arepa con huevo.
- Safety: La Boquilla is a quiet village, but as anywhere, don't leave valuables in sight. The houses over the water are safe; the owners know all the neighbors. However, there is no safe or 24-hour surveillance.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it safe to sleep in a fisherman's house over the water?
Yes, it is safe. The houses are built on sturdy wooden stilts and have withstood decades of storms. Families live there all year round. The only thing to keep in mind is that the railings can be low, so if you travel with small children, supervise them so they don't lean out too much. Also, check that the hammock is well tied before lying down; the fishermen secure them with sailor's knots, but it never hurts to verify.
Can I arrive without a reservation and easily find accommodation?
In the low season (March to June, September to November), you can arrive without a reservation and ask at the dock. The fishermen will take you to available houses. In the high season (December to February, July, and Holy Week), it is better to contact in advance, because the few renovated houses fill up quickly. The Asociación de Pescadores de La Boquilla has an updated list; you can write to them on WhatsApp if you get the # on local social media.
What if I don't speak Spanish? Do the fishermen speak English?
Most fishermen and their families speak only Spanish, and sometimes with a thick coastal accent. If you don't speak Spanish, bring a translator on your cell phone or learn basic phrases like "¿cuánto cuesta?", "gracias", and "buenos días". The young people in the village, especially those who work in tourism, usually have some basic English. But don't expect fluency. Communication becomes more gestural and friendly; the locals appreciate the effort to speak their language.
Historical or Contextual Introduction
La Boquilla, a coastal neighborhood north of Cartagena, has transformed into a refuge for those seeking an authentic experience, far from the tourist bustle. This place, traditionally inhabited by fishermen and their families, has retained much of its essence, making it an ideal destination for those who want to experience the sea in a different way.
Historically, La Boquilla was a small fishing village that depended on the sea for its livelihood. Over time, the growth of tourism has led to an increase in demand for accommodation, but many of the inhabitants still maintain their connection to maritime traditions. Here, the fishermen's houses are more than simple accommodations; they are a testament to the local culture, where you can feel the sea breeze and listen to the stories of the locals.
One of the most charming features of La Boquilla is its offering of houses over the water, which allow visitors to sleep to the sound of the waves. Additionally, the local community invites tourists to participate in activities like traditional fishing, providing a unique opportunity to connect with the culture of the place.
If you decide to visit La Boquilla, here are some practical tips to make the most of your stay:
Where to Eat or Drink
Restaurante La Canoa
This is one of the most authentic places to enjoy local cuisine. With a menu that highlights the flavors of the sea, its ceviches are a must-try. Plus, the atmosphere is relaxed, perfect for enjoying a meal at sunset.
Insider Tip: Ask for the ceviche of the day; they usually have fresh options that aren't on the menu. Pair it with a tropical fruit cocktail for a complete experience.
El Bongo
Located just steps from the beach, this place is famous for its festive atmosphere and delicious coastal food. The portions are generous and full of flavor, featuring fresh seafood and typical regional dishes.
Insider Tip: If you can, visit during one of their live music events. It's an excellent opportunity to enjoy not only the food but also the local culture.
Bar La Playa
This bar is the ideal place to relax with a cold drink after a day of exploration. They offer a variety of local beers and cocktails, as well as tapas to share while enjoying the sea breeze.
Insider Tip: Don't miss their happy hour, where you can try several craft beers at reduced prices. It's a good time to meet other travelers and locals.


