Rituals of Drums and Candles: The Secret Spiritual Events of Cartagena

The mystical Cartagena that few see

Beyond the illuminated walls and rooftops with views of the Caribbean Sea, Cartagena holds a pulse that beats in the early mornings. A pulse that does not appear in travel guides or on maps of the Centro Histórico. It is the sound of a drum called the “llamador,” the smell of tobacco and aguardiente spilled at a crossroads, and the flickering glow of candles illuminating photos of saints with African faces.

For centuries, in neighborhoods like San Francisco, Getsemaní, and Olaya Herrera, rituals have been celebrated that mix imposed Catholicism with beliefs brought on slave ships. They are not shows for tourists. They are real spiritual events, often closed, where the community gathers to honor their dead, ask favors from their saints, or celebrate cultural resistance. If you manage to attend one with respect, you will see a Cartagena that few foreigners know.

In July 2026, these traditions are still alive, though threatened by gentrification and the noise of mass tourism. This article is an honest guide to understanding them and, if you have the opportunity, experiencing them without falling into cheap folklorism.

Origins

To understand the spiritual rituals of Cartagena, one must go back to the 16th century, when the city became the main port of entry for enslaved Africans into the New Kingdom of Granada. They came from regions like the Congo, Angola, and the Slave Coast, bringing with them complex cosmogonies: gods of thunder, spirits of nature, and a deep connection with ancestors.

The Spanish, through the Inquisition, banned any practice that was not Catholic. But the resistance was creative. Africans and their descendants began to syncretize: a Catholic saint could represent a Yoruba orisha, and a mass could become a velorio de tambora where people danced and drank to communicate with the dead. Thus was born what we now call “santería” in Cartagena, although the correct term is more complex: a mix of spiritualism, popular Catholicism, and Bantu traditions.

The neighborhoods where this population concentrated were San Francisco (today part of the Centro Histórico) and Getsemaní, which for centuries was the slum of the enslaved and freedmen. There, in wattle-and-daub houses and inner courtyards, the rituals that are still celebrated today were born.

Timeline or historical milestones

• 1533: Foundation of Cartagena. Arrival of the first enslaved Africans.
• 1610: Establishment of the Tribunal of the Holy Office of the Inquisition in Cartagena. Public burnings of “heretics” who practiced African rituals.
• 1777: Rebellion of the enslaved in Getsemaní. Drums become a tool for communication and resistance.
• 1851: Abolition of slavery in Colombia. Freedmen settle in neighborhoods like San Francisco and Olaya Herrera. Rituals consolidate in domestic spaces.
• 1920-1940: Arrival of migrants from San Basilio de Palenque (the first free town in the Americas) to Cartagena. They introduce lumbalú, a sung and danced funerary ritual.
• 1984: UNESCO declares the Centro Histórico of Cartagena a World Heritage Site. Gentrification begins to displace Black communities from the center.
• 2000s: Resurgence of interest in Afro-Colombian traditions. Cultural groups emerge seeking to preserve rituals without turning them into tourist commodities.
• 2026: Velorios de tambora are still held in San Francisco and Getsemaní, though increasingly in private homes to avoid the commercial gaze.

Key figures or events

The velorios de tambora: the ritual that connects the living and the dead

The velorio de tambora is perhaps the most authentic spiritual event in Cartagena. It is not a sad funeral. It is a celebration where people sing, dance, and drink to “say goodbye” to the soul of the deceased and ensure it finds its path. It is believed that if it is not done properly, the dead may wander among the living.

In neighborhoods like San Francisco, specifically on Calle de la Media Luna and its surroundings, these velorios are still organized in private homes. The ritual can last up to nine nights (the “novenario”). The llamador and alegre drums set the rhythm, while women sing improvised décimas that tell the life of the deceased. Aguardiente and coffee flow non-stop.

Fun fact: In some velorios, an empty chair is placed for the spirit of the dead. If someone feels a chill or sees a candle flicker without wind, it is said that the deceased is present and happy.

Santería events and religious syncretism in Getsemaní

Getsemaní, the quintessential bohemian neighborhood, is also the epicenter of Cartagena’s santería. In Plaza de la Trinidad, after 10 p.m., when the tourists have left, you can see small improvised altars on the corners: red and white candles, flowers, fruits, and bottles of rum. These are offerings to Eleguá (the owner of the paths) or Yemayá (the goddess of the sea).

The “troncos” or “spiritual houses” are family groups that lead these rituals. There is no central temple; each house has its own altar. The most well-known are on Calle de la Sierpe and Calle Larga, although the organizers are very protective of their privacy. Attending without an invitation is a serious disrespect.

One of the most important events is the “Fiesta de San Lázaro,” every December 17, where Catholic prayers mix with songs to Babalú Ayé (the orisha of disease and healing). The procession leaves from the Iglesia de la Trinidad and ends at a private home where a drum “toque” takes place lasting until dawn.

How to find and respectfully attend these rituals

It is not easy. These are not public events nor are they advertised on social media. But there are ways to approach without being invasive:

• Connect with local cultural leaders: Look for the Fundación Afrocaribe or the group “Tambores de San Francisco.” They organize open workshops where they explain the traditions and sometimes invite you to controlled rituals.
• Ask at craft shops in Getsemaní: Some vendors know the “mayores” (respected santeros) and can make an introduction if you show genuine interest.
• Do not bring a camera: Most rituals prohibit photos and videos. It is believed that the image captures the soul. If you are allowed in, put your phone away.
• Bring an offering: A white candle, a bottle of aguardiente, or fresh fruit. Ask beforehand what is appropriate.
• Dress respectfully: No beachwear. Men should wear long pants and women skirts or dresses that cover the knees.
• Do not touch the altars or drums without permission: They are sacred objects. Touching a drum without authorization can be seen as a desecration.

Cultural impact and preservation of these traditions

Gentrification is the greatest threat. In the last 20 years, San Francisco and Getsemaní have seen their original inhabitants displaced by hostels, restaurants, and luxury apartments. The houses where velorios were held are sold or turned into bars. The noise of tourist nightlife drowns out the drums.

But there is resistance. Organizations like “La Cueva del Tambor” and “Asociación de Santeros de Cartagena” fight to keep these practices alive. In July 2026, efforts are underway for UNESCO to recognize the “Velorio de Tambora” as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. If successful, it would be a huge step in protecting these rituals from extinction.

For the spiritual traveler, the lesson is clear: these traditions are not souvenirs. They are the living memory of a community that has resisted 500 years of oppression. Attending a ritual is not a “tourist plan”; it is a privilege. And as such, it must be treated with humility and silence.

Current state

Today, spiritual rituals in Cartagena survive in a fragile balance. In San Francisco, velorios de tambora are increasingly held in homes in the Olaya Herrera neighborhood, away from the tourist eye. In Getsemaní, the “troncos” have become more hermetic: they only accept people recommended by trusted members.

However, there is a window for the respectful traveler. Some cultural houses, like “Casa del Santo” on Calle de la Sierpe, offer open “toques” once a month, with prior reservation and a symbolic cost (around 30,000 COP per person, reference prices from July 2026). There you can experience the singing, dancing, and energy of the ritual without feeling like you are invading a sacred space.

There is also the “Festival de Tambores y Expresiones Culturales de San Francisco,” held every year in February. For a week, there are concerts, workshops, and rituals open to the public. It is the best gateway for those who want to understand without offending.

If you decide to seek out these events, remember: it is not a show. It is a ceremony where the community connects with its ancestors. If you are invited, be quiet, observe, and if you are offered a shot of aguardiente, take it. It is a sign that you are welcome.

Join a unique experience: Discover the calendar of spiritual events on our exclusive website for travelers. There you will find verified dates of open velorios, contact with cultural leaders, and recommendations for attending with respect. It is not dark tourism. It is an encounter with the soul of Cartagena.