Pedaling History: The Bike Route Through Cartagena's Forgotten Forts

Cartagena's Forts: A Bike Route Few Know About

Most tourists arrive in Cartagena and stay cooped up within the walls of the Centro Histórico. They climb the Castillo de San Felipe, take the obligatory photo, and that's it. But there is a Cartagena beyond the stones of the center, a city of forgotten forts, military batteries, and dirt roads that only the locals know well. And the best way to explore them is not by chiva or tourist bus, but by bicycle.

Riding a bike through the forts of Cartagena is not just a sporting ride: it's a history lesson on wheels. From the fortifications that defended the bay from English pirates to the bastions that controlled the slave trade, each pedal stroke brings you closer to an era when this city was the most coveted port in the Americas.

Here I'm going to compare two very different routes: one that crosses the sea to Isla de Tierra Bomba to visit the Fuerte de San Fernando and the Fuerte de San José, and another that stays on the mainland to circle the Castillo de San Felipe and the Fuerte del Pastelillo. Both are spectacular, but each has its own vibe. I'll tell you which one suits you best depending on what you're looking for.

Comparison Table: Island Route vs. City Route

Before we dive into the details, here's a quick summary to give you an idea of what to expect on each route. Reference prices from July 2026.

• Total Distance: Island Route (Tierra Bomba) = 25–30 km round trip (including boat ride). City Route (San Felipe + Pastelillo) = 8–12 km.
• Difficulty: Island Route = Medium-high (mixed terrain, sand, intense sun). City Route = Low (pavement, short inclines).
• Estimated Time: Island Route = 4–6 hours (with stops). City Route = 2–3 hours.
• Entrance Fee to Forts: San Fernando and San José = $25,000–$35,000 COP per person (depending on guide). San Felipe = $30,000 COP (foreigners), $17,000 COP (Colombians). Pastelillo = free entry, but it's a private social club, limited access.
• Best Time to Leave: Island Route = 6:00–7:00 AM (avoid midday sun). City Route = 7:00–9:00 AM or after 4:00 PM.
• Hydration Points: Island Route = few, bring your own water. City Route = shops and kiosks every few blocks.
• Bike Accessibility: Island Route = need a mountain or hybrid bike. City Route = any city bike works.

Route 1: Fuerte de San Fernando and Fuerte de San José (Isla de Tierra Bomba)

This is the route for those who want to feel like true explorers. It's not a casual ride: you have to take a boat from the Muelle de la Bodeguita (near the Centro Histórico) to the island of Tierra Bomba. The boat ride takes about 15–20 minutes and costs between $5,000 and $10,000 COP per person if you go in a group. Once on the island, you disembark in the village of Bocachica and there the pedaling begins.

The Fuerte de San Fernando is a massive coral stone structure that looks like it's from a pirate movie. It was built in the 18th century to protect the entrance to the bay, and it's in surprisingly good condition. You can explore its tunnels, climb up to the cannon batteries, and see the Caribbean Sea from its walls. Entry costs around $25,000 COP, but if you hire a local guide (worth it, they tell you stories of battles and smuggling), the price goes up to $35,000 COP.

Just 1.5 kilometers away, pedaling along a dirt road bordered by mangroves, you reach the Fuerte de San José. This one is smaller and more neglected, but it has a special charm because almost no one goes there. The views from its tower are stunning: you see the entire bay of Cartagena, the Cerro de la Popa, and even the Castillo de San Felipe in the background. Entry is included in the same ticket as San Fernando.

Pros and Cons of the Island Route

• Pros: Unique experience, far from mass tourism, virgin beach landscapes, real adventure feeling, you can swim in the sea at the end.
• Cons: You need to coordinate with the boat (they don't leave every 5 minutes), the sun is relentless, the dirt road can be tough with a city bike, there are few places to buy water or food (bring your own supplies).
• Fun fact: The Fuerte de San José was never finished. Due to lack of budget and because the military engineers realized that San Fernando was more strategic, they left it half-built. Today it's a perfect place for ruins lovers.

Route 2: Castillo de San Felipe and Fuerte del Pastelillo (Inside the City)

This is the route for those who want to combine history with a hassle-free urban ride. You start from the Centro Histórico or Getsemaní, pedal along Avenida Pedro de Heredia (carefully, as traffic is heavy), and in 15 minutes you arrive at the Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas. It needs no introduction: it's the largest fortress built by the Spanish in the Americas, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Climbing the slope to the castle entrance is the only real effort on this route. It's worth it: from the top you see the entire city, the sea, and the hills. The internal tour is labyrinthine, with tunnels, ramps, and secret passages. Entry costs $30,000 COP for foreigners and $17,000 COP for Colombians. If you go early (before 9 AM), there's almost no line.

From San Felipe, you bike down Avenida del Lago to the El Laguito neighborhood, where the Fuerte del Pastelillo is located. Note: this fort is not a museum open to the public. Today it's the headquarters of the Club de Pesca de Cartagena, a private social club. But you can peek through the fence and see its cannons pointing at the sea, or if you're lucky and the guard is in a good mood, they might let you in for a moment. The best part of this stop is the El Laguito boardwalk, perfect for sitting down to rest, having a coconut water, and watching the sailboats.

Pros and Cons of the City Route

• Pros: Easy, quick, no boat needed, you can do it on any bike, there's shade and shops along the way, perfect for families or beginners.
• Cons: Less adventurous, traffic on some avenues is intense, the Fuerte del Pastelillo is not really accessible (you can only see it from outside), San Felipe can be crowded with tourists.
• Fun fact: The Fuerte del Pastelillo was originally called "Batería de San Lucas." It's called "Pastelillo" because of its rounded shape, which resembles a small cake. During the war of independence, it was the last Spanish fort to surrender in Cartagena.

Final Comparison: Which Route to Choose Based on Your Profile

Here's a quick guide so you don't get it wrong:

• If you're an experienced cyclist looking for adventure: Go for the Island Route (Tierra Bomba). Bring a mountain bike, plenty of water, sunscreen, and a hat. The experience of pedaling among forgotten forts, with the sound of the sea in the background, is unbeatable.
• If you're going with kids, a partner, or are a beginner: Stick with the City Route (San Felipe + Pastelillo). It's safer, you have places to stop for food, and you can do it in a morning without dying in the attempt.
• If you want spectacular photos: The Island Route wins hands down. Shots of the Fuerte de San Fernando from the sea, with turquoise water, are magazine cover material.
• If you're more interested in history than sport: Both routes have history, but the City Route gives you more context because San Felipe has better information panels and official guides. On Tierra Bomba, the guides are locals who tell you first-hand stories, but sometimes they only speak Spanish.

Practical Tips for Your Bike Route Through the Forts

These tips will save your ride, trust me:

• Bike rental: In the Centro Histórico, there are several places that rent bicycles by the hour or day. Prices range from $15,000 to $30,000 COP per hour, depending on the type of bike. Ask if helmets and locks are included. If you're going to Tierra Bomba, make sure to ask for a mountain or hybrid bike; city bikes will get stuck in the sand.
• Best times to pedal: In Cartagena, the sun is great but also dangerously strong. Leave between 6:00 and 7:00 AM, or after 4:00 PM. At 11:00 AM, the heat will split you in two.
• Hydration and food: On the City Route, no problem: you find a shop every two blocks. On the Island Route, bring at least 2 liters of water per person, some cookies or fruit, and some cash (not all stalls on Tierra Bomba have card readers).
• Clothing and protection: Light long-sleeved shirt (protects you from the sun without sweating as much), sunscreen, sunglasses, and a buff for your neck. The dust from the dirt roads gets into your soul.
• Safety: On the City Route, be careful with mototaxis and buses on Avenida Pedro de Heredia. Use bike lanes when available. On Tierra Bomba, the road is safe, but don't leave your bike alone while you enter the forts; lock it to a fence or ask a guard to watch it for a tip.

Final Verdict

If you only have one free day in Cartagena and want an experience that mixes sport, history, and landscapes few tourists know, don't hesitate: the Island Route (Tierra Bomba) is the one that will leave you speechless. Yes, it requires more logistics and effort, but pedaling between the Fuerte de San Fernando and the Fuerte de San José, with the Caribbean on one side and the sound of the waves crashing against the

Introduction to the Topic

The history of Cartagena goes beyond the imposing walls and vibrant colors of the Centro Histórico. It is a city that holds secrets in its forgotten forts, constructions that narrate the battles and resistance against attacks by pirates and privateers. By pedaling through its streets and paths, you can discover these vestiges of the past that, although less visited, are equally fascinating. As you advance on this bike route, you not only exercise your body but also delve into a story full of culture and resilience.

Exploring the forts of Cartagena by bike offers a unique perspective. You move away from the tourist hustle and immerse yourself in local life, where the pace is slower and the landscapes will surprise you. Plus, the sea breeze and warm climate make this experience a delight. Make sure to bring plenty of water, sunscreen, and, if possible, a local guide who can share anecdotes and curiosities you won't find in the guides.

Analysis by Option (Pros and Cons)

Exploring Cartagena's forgotten forts by bike offers a series of advantages and disadvantages worth considering before embarking on the adventure. Here is an analysis of the pros and cons you might encounter during your tour.

Pros

• Unique experience: By pedaling, you can discover the less touristy Cartagena, enjoying its landscapes and local culture.
• Outdoor exercise: The physical activity involved in cycling is an excellent way to stay active while enjoying the city.
• Interaction with locals: By leaving the more touristy areas, you will have more opportunities to interact with the inhabitants and learn their stories.

Cons

• Intense heat: Cartagena can be overwhelmingly hot, especially in the summer season. It is essential to stay hydrated and wear sunscreen.
• Road conditions: Some routes may not be in the best condition, so it is important to be aware of the paths and choose a suitable bicycle.

A good idea is to plan the tour during cooler hours, such as early morning or sunset, to avoid extreme heat and enjoy a more pleasant climate.