Beyond the Sea: The Other Side of Cartagena
When most people think of Cartagena, they imagine the turquoise sea of the Islas del Rosario or the bustle of Bocagrande. But there is another side to the city, one that few tourists know and that locals hold dear: the hidden trails, the silent mangroves, and the hills that offer views no Instagram photo can capture. If you're tired of the sand and the crowds, this article is for you. Here I tell you about five outdoor routes in Cartagena that aren't beaches, perfect for adventurous travelers who want to sweat, explore, and connect with the real nature of the Caribbean coast.
June 2026 is an ideal month for these routes: the rainy season is at its midpoint, the landscapes are green, and mosquitoes are manageable if you bring repellent. The prices I mention are reference prices for this month, but it's always worth confirming before you go.
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Trail 1: El Totumo Mud Volcano – the thermal mud trek (without the lines)
The El Totumo Mud Volcano is famous, yes, but most people arrive by tourist bus, bathe in the crater for 15 minutes, and leave. What they don't know is that there is a way to experience it like a true outdoor adventure: walking there from the town of Santa Catalina, about 45 minutes from Cartagena.
The lesser-known route
Instead of paying for a tour, take a bus from the Mercado de Bazurto (it costs about $8,000 COP) to the entrance of the municipality of Santa Catalina. From there, you walk about 3 kilometers along a dirt road lined with palm trees and farms. There is no tourist signage, so ask the locals: everyone knows where the volcano is. The walk takes you between 40 minutes and an hour, depending on the heat.
The trick to avoiding crowds
Most tours arrive between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. If you arrive walking early (before 8 a.m.) or after 3 p.m., you'll likely have the crater to yourself. The mud is dense, hot, and has mineral properties that leave your skin soft. After the bath, you clean off in the nearby lagoon (bring your own towel, as the ones for rent are not always clean).
- Distance: 3 km one way (6 km round trip)
- Difficulty: Easy
- What to bring: Water, repellent, towel, clothes you can get dirty, sandals or old shoes
- Cost: Volcano entrance: $5,000 COP (reference price for June 2026)
Trail 2: Cerro de la Popa – the ascent route that isn't the road
Cerro de la Popa is the highest point in Cartagena, with the famous convent at the top. Most people go up by taxi or tourist bus, but there is a hiking route that starts from the El Espinal neighborhood, climbing a dirt path that winds between colonial houses and dry vegetation. It's a walk of about 2 kilometers, but with considerable elevation gain that will make you sweat.
The hidden path
Look for Calle de la Media Luna, in the historic center, and walk east until you reach the foot of the hill. There is a path that goes up between stone walls and mango trees. It's not dangerous, but it is steep; wear closed-toe shoes. At the top, the convent is open from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., and the view of the bay and the walled city is spectacular. The best time to go is at sunset, when the sun sets behind the fortifications.
- Distance: 2 km uphill
- Difficulty: Moderate
- What to bring: Trekking shoes, water, cap, camera
- Recommended time: 4 p.m. to see the sunset
Trail 3: Mangrove forest in Ciénaga de la Virgen – kayak and birds
Ciénaga de la Virgen is a mangrove ecosystem north of Cartagena, near the La Boquilla neighborhood. It's not a walking trail, but a kayak tour through narrow channels between red mangrove roots. It's one of the best places for outdoor activities in Cartagena if you want silence and pure nature.
How to get there without a tour
Take a bus to La Boquilla (from the center, it costs about $3,000 COP). On the beach, look for local fishermen who rent kayaks for about 2 hours. Negotiate the price: it shouldn't exceed $30,000 COP per person. They guide you through the channels, but you can paddle alone if you have experience. Bring binoculars: you'll see herons, ibises, and if you're lucky, a kingfisher.
- Duration: 2-3 hours
- Difficulty: Easy (paddling in calm waters)
- What to bring: Sunscreen, repellent, hat, water, binoculars
- Best time: 6 a.m. or 4 p.m. to avoid the strong sun
Trail 4: Tierrabomba Island – hiking the interior (not just the beach)
Tierrabomba is known for its white sand beaches, but the interior of the island is a paradise for walking. There are trails that cross dry tropical forests, pass by ruins of colonial fortifications, and end at cliffs overlooking the Caribbean Sea. It's ideal for a half-day excursion.
The lighthouse route
Take a ferry from La Bodeguita (it costs about $15,000 COP round trip) to the Tierrabomba dock. From there, walk east along a dirt road that borders the coast. After 2 kilometers, you'll find a trail that goes up to the Faro de Punta Gigante, an abandoned lighthouse with a 360-degree view of the bay. The total hike is about 5 kilometers round trip, with gentle inclines.
- Distance: 5 km round trip
- Difficulty: Easy to moderate
- What to bring: Water, snacks, comfortable shoes, sunscreen
- Ferry cost: $15,000 COP (reference price for June 2026)
Trail 5: Corales del Rosario National Natural Park – snorkeling in shallow reefs
Corales del Rosario National Natural Park is a protected area south of Cartagena. Most mass tours take you to crowded islands, but there is a way to snorkel in virgin reefs: take a local boat from the La Bodeguita dock to Isla Grande, and then walk or swim to the reefs in the Punta Brava area.
The circuit without massive guides
On Isla Grande, there is a trail that borders the east coast, about 2 kilometers long, ending at a rocky beach with direct access to coral reefs. You don't need a guide: bring your own snorkel gear (you can rent it in Cartagena for $20,000 COP per day) and enter the water carefully, avoiding touching the coral. You'll see parrotfish, barracudas, and if the water is clear, turtles. The best time is between 9 a.m. and 11 a.m., when the tide is low and visibility is at its best.
- Trail distance: 2 km
- Difficulty: Easy
- What to bring: Snorkel, fins, biodegradable sunscreen, water, towel
- Boat cost: Negotiate with local fishermen, about $30,000 COP per person
Practical tips: best time, what to bring, and how to get there without an organized tour
Best time for outdoor activities in Cartagena
The sun in Cartagena is relentless. The ideal window is from 6 a.m. to 9 a.m. or from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. At midday, the heat can be dangerous, especially on trails without shade like Cerro de la Popa. If you go during the rainy season (May to November), bring a light raincoat; storms are usually short but intense.
What to always bring
- Water: minimum 1.5 liters per person
- Mosquito repellent (with DEET, because the sandflies are fierce)
- Water-resistant sunscreen
- Closed-toe trekking shoes (not sandals)
- Cap or wide-brimmed hat
- Waterproof bag for your phone and documents
How to get there without an organized tour
Cartagena has a system of buses and mototaxis that covers almost the entire city. For places like El Totumo or Tierrabomba, use the buses from the Mercado de Bazurto (ask for "Santa Catalina" or "Pasacaballos"). For Ciénaga de la Virgen, take a bus to La Boquilla from Avenida Pedro de Heredia. Always carry cash in small bills ($1,000 and $2,000 COP coins).
A fun fact: the fishermen of La Boquilla know the mangroves better than any tour guide. If you offer them a couple of thousand extra pesos, they'll take you to channels that don't appear on any map.
Frequently asked questions
Is it safe to hike alone in Cartagena?
Yes, but with precautions. The trails I mention are used by locals and don't have major safety issues. Avoid going at night, carry only what you need, and don't flash valuables. On Cerro de la Popa, it's better to go with company due to the steep climb, but not because of danger.
Do I need permits to enter the mangroves or the National Park?
For the mangroves of Ciénaga de la Virgen, you don't need a permit; you just pay for the kayak rental. For Corales del Rosario National Natural Park, the entrance fee is about $20,000 COP per person (reference price for June 2026), paid at the Isla Grande dock. No prior reservation is needed, but bring cash as there is no card machine.
Which of these trails is best for beginners?
The kayak in the mangroves of Ciénaga de la Virgen is the most accessible: it requires no physical condition, the water is calm, and the channels are short. If you want something on foot, the Tierrabomba trail is flat and easy. Cerro de la Popa is the most demanding, but the view makes up for it.
Historical or contextual introduction
Cartagena is not only known for its Caribbean coast, but also for its rich history and biodiversity that extends beyond the beaches. Founded in 1533, this city was a key port during the colonial era, where significant commercial exchanges took place. Its architecture, influenced by Spanish, African, and indigenous styles, is a testament to its vibrant past. However, Cartagena's history also includes a deep relationship with nature and its surroundings. The trails surrounding the city offer a unique way to explore this legacy, often overlooked by tourists.
As tourism has focused on the coast, many of these secret trails remain hidden. These paths not only offer stunning views but also allow for the discovery of local flora and fauna, as well as interaction with communities that still preserve ancestral traditions. Exploring these trails gives you a new perspective on Cartagena, away from the noise of the city and conventional tourism.
Exploring these trails will allow you to better understand Cartagena's relationship with its natural environment and cultural heritage, making you feel more connected to the city.
What to do
La Boquilla Trail
This trail takes you through mangroves and wetlands, where you can observe a great variety of birds. It's ideal for those seeking a bit of tranquility away from the crowds. Insider Tip: Visit early in the morning or at sunset to enjoy the best light for photos and birdwatching.
Road to San Basilio de Palenque
A cultural journey that not only offers stunning views but is also a window into the rich history of the Afro-Colombian community. Here you can learn about their traditions and music. Insider Tip: Don't miss trying the local "frito" and attending a cultural event if you have the chance; the experience is unique.
Corales del Rosario and San Bernardo National Natural Park Trail
Apart from the beaches, this park has lesser-known trails that lead to spectacular views of marine and terrestrial biodiversity. Insider Tip: Bring your snorkel gear; the reefs are impressive, and the marine life is abundant.
Hike up Cerro de la Popa
Climbing the hill is an activity that combines exercise with history, as at the top you'll find the convent offering panoramic views of all of Cartagena. Insider Tip: Bring water and go during cooler hours; the sunset from here is an experience you can't miss.
Walled City Trail
Explore the walls and paths surrounding the Walled City, where every corner tells a story. There are several viewpoints that offer incredible photos of the colonial architecture. Insider Tip: If you can, do it in the morning to avoid the heat and discover local cafes along the way.
Where to eat or drink
La Cevichería
This is one of the most iconic places to enjoy fresh ceviche in Cartagena. La Cevichería is famous for its shrimp ceviche and relaxed atmosphere. Many locals come here, which speaks to its authenticity.
Insider Tip: Be sure to try the corvina ceviche, which is one of the house specialties. Also, if you arrive early, you can avoid the long lines that usually form during lunchtime.
Café del Mar
Located on the walls, this café offers more than just an impressive view of the sea. It's an ideal place to enjoy a good drink while watching the sunset. The atmosphere is perfect for relaxing after a day of hiking.
Insider Tip: Try their famous passion fruit cocktail, which is refreshing and perfect for the Caribbean climate. It's also an excellent place to take a break and enjoy the live music they offer on some nights.
Restaurante 1621
This restaurant, located in the luxurious Sofitel Legend Santa Clara Hotel, is a unique gastronomic experience. They offer dishes that fuse Colombian cuisine with modern techniques, creating a memorable culinary experience.
Insider Tip: Don't miss their tasting menu, which changes according to the season and available fresh ingredients. Also, book in advance, as the place is quite popular among visitors and locals.


