The Night Market of the Witches in Plaza de los Coches

The Transformation of Plaza de los Coches at Nightfall

When the sun sets over Cartagena and the heat of the day subsides, Plaza de los Coches changes its skin. What in broad daylight is a meeting point for tourists taking photos with the palenqueras and bargaining for sombreros vueltiaos, becomes a completely different world. Around 7 or 8 at night, the same stalls that sold handicrafts start bringing out purple candles, tobacco, bottles of Florida water, and piles of dried herbs that smell of the countryside and mystery. This is the famous Night Market of the Witches, a ritual that the city's santeros and yerberos have been doing for decades.

It is not advertised on any official tourist board. There are no signs. It is an event that happens by word of mouth, passed between locals who know who to ask for spiritual work or a cleansing bath. In June 2026, the tradition is still alive, although more and more curious visitors are peeking in to see what happens. Here I'll tell you what it's like, what you'll find, and how to participate without putting your foot in it.

Origins: Roots in Palenquero Rituals and Local Santeria

Don't let anyone sell you the idea that this is a "show for tourists." The Night Market of the Witches has its roots in the spiritual practices brought by enslaved Africans to Cartagena, especially those who came from regions like the Congo and Angola. Over time, this mixed with popular Catholicism and the traditions of the palenqueros from San Basilio de Palenque, the first free town in the Americas, just an hour from the city.

The "witches" or "curanderos" you see in the square are not actors. Many are descendants of these traditions, and they offer services like energy cleansing, love spells, tobacco readings, and amulet preparation. The difference from other esoteric markets in the world is that here there are no stalls with neon signs or written prices. Everything is negotiated in a low voice, with respect, as if you were in the back room of a temple.

What to Find: Candles, Herbs, Amulets, and Tobacco Readings

If you peek into the square after dark, this is what you'll find:

• Colored candles: Each color has a purpose. Purple is for spiritual protection, red for passion, green for money, white for peace. They are sold in packs of three or seven, depending on the work you need.
• Herbs and waters: Bunches of rue, basil, rosemary, mugwort, and other herbs used for cleansing baths. Also bottles of Florida water and colognes prepared with specific essences.
• Amulets and necklaces: Deer eye bracelets, jet pendants for the evil eye, beaded necklaces with colors of saints like San Lázaro or the Virgen de la Candelaria. Some come "charged" by the witch doctor.
• Tobacco readings: The star service. A curandero lights a tobacco (cigar), smokes, and reads the smoke, ash, and fire to interpret your situation. Don't expect a card or palm reading; this is something else.
• Tallow candles and statuettes: Figures of popular saints like San Alejo (to ward off enemies) or Santa Muerte, although the latter is more common in Mexico than here. They also sell black tallow candles for "strong" work.

Prices are as of June 2026: a simple candle can cost between $5,000 and $10,000 COP, a tobacco reading between $30,000 and $60,000 COP, and a "charged" necklace can reach $50,000 COP or more, depending on the material and preparation.

How to Participate: Unwritten Rules

It is not a common market. There are codes you must respect if you don't want to be looked down upon or, worse, get the evil eye thrown back at you. Here are the rules:

• Don't take photos without permission. Many witch doctors believe that a photo steals energy or that their image should not be recorded. Always ask before taking out your phone. If they say no, respect it.
• Don't ask prices out loud. It's not a supermarket. Approach the stall, greet, look calmly, and ask in a low voice: "How much do you charge for this?" or "What do you recommend for protection?"
• Don't touch the amulets without permission. Some are "charged" and the witch doctor doesn't want others touching them. Wait for them to show you.
• Don't come in a mocking or incredulous manner. Even if you don't believe in these practices, the people there do. Being respectful is the least you can do. If you just want to watch, sit at one of the restaurant tables in the square and observe from a distance.
• Bring cash. Not everyone has a card machine or accepts transfers. Coins and small bills are key.

Safety: A Watched Area, But Use Your Head

Plaza de los Coches is in the heart of the Centro Histórico, an area with a tourist police presence and private security. The vendors themselves watch the perimeter because they don't want thefts or problems that scare away customers. That said, don't let your guard down. As in any crowded place in Cartagena:

• Don't carry cameras hanging around your neck or wallets in your back pocket.
• Keep your cell phone in a zippered pocket or a fanny pack.
• If you go for a tobacco reading, don't leave your backpack or bag on the ground. Keep it with you at all times.
• Avoid arriving after 11 p.m. if you are alone. The market starts to disperse and the square becomes emptier.
• If a vendor offers you "something stronger" (like drugs or rituals with animals), walk away. That is not part of the traditional market and can get you into trouble.

Practical Tips for Your Visit

• Arrive between 7 and 8 p.m. That's when the market is most active but there is still natural light and movement in the square.
• If you want a tobacco reading, look for the oldest curanderos. The ones with gray hair and wrinkles are the ones who have been doing this for decades. Ask a local sitting at the restaurant La Cevichería (in the same square) who is the most recommended.
• Don't buy the first thing you see. Walk around the entire square, compare, and go back to the stall that gave you the best feeling. Negotiation is part of the ritual.
• If you are offered a herbal bath on the spot, refuse it. Those baths are done in the privacy of your home or on a deserted beach, not in the middle of a public square.
• Bring a small bag to store your purchases. Amulets and candles are often fragile.

Fun fact: Some witch doctors in the square use a special tobacco called "black tobacco" grown in the Montes de María region. They say it has stronger spiritual properties than common tobacco, and that it is only used for serious work, not for tourists.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is it safe to go alone to the Night Market of the Witches?

Yes, if you are careful. The square is a watched tourist spot. However, avoid carrying valuables in plain sight and don't stay very late if you are alone. If you can, go with someone else, even if it's another traveler from the hostel.

Can I participate in a ritual even if I don't believe in these practices?

You can observe and even buy an amulet or receive a tobacco reading as a cultural experience. Just be respectful. It's not about believing or not believing, but about understanding that for many locals this is part of their identity and faith.

Is there a specific day when the market is bigger?

Fridays and Saturdays have more movement, but the market sets up every night of the year, rain or shine. If there is heavy rain, the vendors take shelter under the arches of the square, but they continue serving.

Can I take photos if I pay for a service?

It depends on the witch doctor. Some allow photos if you pay them extra (about $10,000 COP). Others strictly forbid it. Always ask before taking out your phone or camera.

CTA: If you want to live this experience without getting lost or putting your foot in it, join our exclusive guided tour of esoteric Cartagena. We'll take you with a local practitioner who will explain each ritual, introduce you to trusted curanderos, and help you

Available Options

El Mercado de los Brujos

This is the epicenter of the Night Market. Here you will find a variety of esoteric products, from amulets to herbs that promise to attract good luck. Additionally, the mystical atmosphere is complemented by live music from local artists.

Insider Tip: Don't leave without trying the "herbal aguardiente" that some vendors offer as part of their rituals. It's a unique blend you won't find anywhere else.

La Plaza de los Coches

This place, besides being the entrance to the Mercado de los Brujos, offers an impressive view of colonial architecture and is ideal for enjoying a refreshment or a cocktail before exploring. There are often street artists creating a vibrant atmosphere.

Insider Tip: Arrive early to secure a good spot and watch the sun set over the square. It's a perfect moment for photos and to enjoy the ambiance.

Calle del Arsenal

Located a short distance from Plaza de los Coches, this street is known for its bars and restaurants offering a mix of local and international cuisine. It's a good place to rest between stops at the market.

Insider Tip: Try the "Ajiaco" at one of the restaurants in the area; it's a typical dish that represents the fusion of flavors in the region. The portions are generous and perfect for sharing.

Updated Costs

Costs at the Night Market of the Witches can vary widely, depending on what you are looking for. Here is a breakdown of prices and some tips to make your experience more authentic and affordable:

Street Food

Typical dishes like arepas, empanadas, and patacones range between $3,000 and $10,000 COP. The best way to enjoy the food is to ask vendors for recommendations on the most popular dishes of the night.

Insider Tip: Don't forget to try the arequipe in the arepas de huevo, a delicacy you won't find everywhere.

Drinks

Local beers cost between $5,000 and $8,000 COP, while cocktails can go up to $15,000 COP or more, depending on the ingredients. A good strategy is to order an aguardiente, which is generally cheaper and allows you to socialize with the locals.

Insider Tip: Ask about drink specials at the stalls; sometimes there are special offers during the night.

Handicraft Items

Handicraft prices can start from $5,000 COP and go up to $100,000 COP, depending on the complexity and type of product. Haggling is part of the experience, so don't hesitate to negotiate.

Insider Tip: Look for handmade pieces by local artisans; they often have interesting stories behind them that vendors will be happy to share.

Remember to bring cash, as many stalls do not accept cards. Enjoy the experience and the cultural richness that this unique market in Cartagena offers.

Estimated Times

The Night Market of the Witches in Plaza de los Coches is an event that begins at nightfall, generally around 6:00 p.m. and extends until midnight. Hours may vary, so it is recommended to arrive early to fully enjoy the atmosphere. Here are some estimated times to help you plan your visit:

• Preparations: If you want to explore the witchcraft and handicraft stalls, set aside at least 1 hour before the main activity starts. This will allow you to observe and select unique products.
• Time at the market: Plan to spend between 2 to 3 hours at the market. This time will give you the opportunity to try different foods, buy souvenirs, and enjoy the live music.
• Dinner in the area: Consider having dinner at one of the nearby restaurants before diving into the market. An estimated time of 1 to 1.5 hours is ideal to enjoy the local cuisine.

Remember that the atmosphere becomes livelier as the night progresses, so if you are looking for a more vibrant experience, consider arriving after 8:00 p.m.