The Walls That Guarded the New World's Gold
Cartagena de Indias was not just a port; it was the treasure chest of the Spanish Empire in America. Through its docks passed gold from Peru, silver from Mexico, emeralds from Colombia. And all this bounty attracted pirates like Francis Drake, Henry Morgan, and others who saw the city as a juicy prize. That's why, throughout the 17th and 18th centuries, Spain built around Cartagena a defensive system that is now a World Heritage Site: the route of the colonial forts.
These fortifications were not just stone and mortar; they were fear turned into architecture. The fear of losing the crown's most precious jewel. Walking through them today is strolling through the memory of a city that defended itself with cannon fire, that saw galleons loaded with wealth pass by, and that, within its walls, holds stories of sieges, betrayals, and bravery.
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San Felipe de Barajas Fort: The Giant That Never Fell
If there is one symbol of Cartagena's resistance, it is this one. The San Felipe de Barajas Fort rises on the San Lázaro hill like a stone giant watching over the city. Its construction began in 1657 and extended for more than a century, growing in complexity and size. It is not just one fort; it is a network of bastions, tunnels, and batteries that communicate with each other.
The first thing that impresses is its scale. From below, it looks like an artificial mountain. As you climb, you discover its defensive elements: the watchtowers, the cannons pointing to the sea, the dry moats that prevented enemy advance. But the most fascinating part is underground: the tunnels. Kilometers of dark, humid passageways used to mobilize troops, store gunpowder, and, in case of siege, mine enemy positions. Walking through them is feeling the echo of the soldiers who waited there, in the dim light, for the next attack.
The fort was never taken by force. It resisted Vernon's siege in 1741, when a British fleet of 186 ships and 23,600 men tried to conquer Cartagena. The defense, led by Blas de Lezo, became a legend. Today, from its walls, you have one of the most spectacular views of the city: the Caribbean Sea on one side, the colonial rooftops on the other.
Practical Information for San Felipe de Barajas Fort
Address: Cerro de San Lázaro, Cartagena de Indias, Colombia
Opening Hours: Monday to Sunday, 8:00 am to 6:00 pm (last entry at 5:00 pm)
Admission: $25,000 COP for adults, $15,000 COP for students with ID, children under 12 free
San Fernando de Bocachica Fort: The Guardian of the Bay
To reach Cartagena by sea, ships had to pass through the "boca chica" (small mouth), the narrow access to the inner bay. There, on Tierra Bomba Island, the Spanish built the San Fernando de Bocachica Fort. Its mission was simple but crucial: to block the passage.
This fort is different from San Felipe. It is more exposed, closer to the water. Its architecture is in the Vauban style, with a star shape to maximize the field of fire. It is surrounded by a moat that filled with seawater, making a direct assault nearly impossible. Inside, the barracks where soldiers lived, the kitchens, and the chapels are still preserved.
Visiting San Fernando requires a bit more planning. You reach it by boat from the Muelle de los Pegasos, on a 20-minute journey that is already part of the adventure. Upon disembarking, the feeling is of being in an isolated fortress, where the constant sound is the waves crashing against the stones. From its walls, the view is pure Caribbean: turquoise blue sea as far as the eye can see.
Practical Information for San Fernando de Bocachica Fort
Opening Hours: Monday to Sunday, 9:00 am to 4:00 pm
Admission: $15,000 COP (includes boat transportation from Muelle de los Pegasos)
Transportation: Boats depart every hour from Muelle de los Pegasos (Carrera 8 #32-58)
Other Forts and Batteries: The Complete Defensive Network
The fort route does not end at San Felipe and San Fernando. Cartagena was protected by a complete network that included:
- Ángel San Rafael Battery: On the La Popa hill, the highest hill in the city. From here, the entire territory was controlled.
- San José Fort: At the entrance to the bay, facing San Fernando. Together they formed an impassable barrier.
- San Lucas Battery: Protected the Getsemaní area, the popular neighborhood where artisans and soldiers lived.
- The City Walls: 11 kilometers of fortification that completely surrounded the historic center.
Each of these structures had a specific function in the defensive system. Together, they made Cartagena one of the best-protected cities in America.
Tips for Exploring the Route: Schedules, Admission, and Transportation
San Felipe de Barajas Fort:
Opening Hours: Monday to Sunday, 8:00 am to 6:00 pm (last entry at 5:00 pm)
Admission: $25,000 COP for adults, $15,000 COP for students with ID, children under 12 free.
Recommendation: Visit early in the morning or late afternoon to avoid intense heat. Bring water, sunscreen, and comfortable shoes. The climb can be demanding.
San Fernando de Bocachica Fort:
Opening Hours: Monday to Sunday, 9:00 am to 4:00 pm
Admission: $15,000 COP (includes boat transportation from Muelle de los Pegasos)
Transportation: Boats depart every hour from Muelle de los Pegasos (Carrera 8 #32-58). The journey takes 20 minutes.
Recommendation: Bring a hat and swimsuit. After visiting the fort, you can enjoy the nearby beaches on Tierra Bomba.
Transportation between forts:
To move between the different forts, the options are:
- Taxi: The most comfortable option, especially for families. From the historic center to San Felipe is 10 minutes.
- Tourist bus: Some companies offer tours that include several forts in one day.
- Walking: From the historic center you can walk to San Felipe in 15-20 minutes, although the final climb is steep.
Photography and Best Times to Visit
The forts of Cartagena are a paradise for photography. Some tips:
- Best light: Sunrise and sunset. The golden Caribbean light bathes the stones in a magical color.
- Panoramic views: From San Felipe, photograph the city with the sea in the background. From San Fernando, the open sea.
- Architectural details: The cannons, watchtowers, shields carved in stone.
- Interiors: The tunnels of San Felipe require adjusting your camera for low light.
- Best season: December to April (dry season). Avoid the rainiest months (October-November).
Frequently Asked Questions about Cartagena's Forts
How much time is needed to visit all the forts?
For a complete visit of the main forts (San Felipe and San Fernando), it is recommended to dedicate at least one full day. If you want to include other sites like the walls and minor batteries, consider two days.
Is it necessary to hire a guide?
It is not mandatory, but it is recommended. Local guides know stories and details you won't find on informational plaques. Plus, they will help you better understand the strategic importance of each fortification.
Are there organized tours that include several forts?
Yes, several companies offer tours that include transportation, admission, and a guide. It is a convenient option if you don't want to worry about logistics.
Are the forts accessible for people with reduced mobility?
San Felipe Fort has some accessible areas, but the tunnels and some sections have steps and uneven terrain. San Fernando, being an island, presents more challenges. It is recommended to inquire in advance.
Can you take photos with drones in the forts?
Generally, the use of drones is not permitted inside the forts for safety and conservation reasons. Always ask the staff before attempting to fly a drone.
Exploring the route of Cartagena's colonial forts is not just a tourist stroll. It is a journey through time. It is touching the stones that defended an empire, imagining the cannons firing, the soldiers running through the tunnels. It is understanding why this city, between walls and forts, became a legend.
And at the end of the day, when the sun sets over the Caribbean and the stones turn orange, one understands that these forts did not just protect gold and silver. They protected a way of life, a culture, a city that, thanks to them, is still here, vibrant and proud, telling its story to anyone who wants to listen.