Climbing Cerro de la Popa Before Dawn: The Locals' Secret Route to Watch the Sun Rise Over the Bay

Historical or Contextual Introduction

4:30 in the morning in Cartagena has a different sound. No honking horns, no blaring vallenato, no hustle and bustle of the Historic Center. The only thing you hear is the wind coming down from Cerro de la Popa and, if you listen closely, the distant murmur of the Caribbean Sea. For those of us who live here, climbing that hill before dawn is not just exercise: it's an almost religious ritual, a way to see the city naked, without tourists, without filters.

Cerro de la Popa, at 150 meters above sea level, is the highest point in Cartagena. At its summit is the Convento de la Popa, built in 1606 by the Augustinian Recollects, and from there the view is one of the most breathtaking in the Colombian Caribbean. But what many don't know, not even the newer locals, is that there is a secret route to climb that is not the main road. A cobblestone path that starts in the La Popa neighborhood, known well by the local elders, and leaves you at the top just as the sun begins to peek over the bay.

In June 2026, this is still the best time to do it. Not only do you avoid the infernal heat of 9 am, but you encounter a Cartagena that few know: the one of the early risers, the fishermen returning from the sea, and the stray dogs that accompany you part of the way. If you're looking for an authentic experience, forget the photos on the wall at noon. This is something else.

What to Do

The Best Time: 4:30 am and Why It's the Only Time to Do It in Peace

If you arrive after 6:00 am, you've already lost. The main road fills up with mototaxis, groups of tourists with guides, and street vendors offering you cocadas at 7 in the morning. Plus, the sun hits hard early. By 7:30 am you're sweating as if you'd run a marathon.

Leaving at 4:30 am from the Historic Center or from Getsemaní gives you time to walk to the start of the trail (about 20-25 minutes from the Torre del Reloj) and begin the climb with the moon still overhead. The temperature hovers around 24-26°C, cool by Cartagena standards, and the air is clean. It's an almost mystical experience: just the sound of your steps on the stones, some rooster crowing in the neighborhood, and the wind rising from the bay.

Locals know that weekdays are even better. Monday, Tuesday, or Wednesday at 4:30 am you'll encounter at most 5 or 6 people on the trail. Weekends have more movement, but still nothing compared to the main road. If you can choose, Wednesday is the ideal day.

The Alternative Route: The Cobblestone Path Through the La Popa Neighborhood

Forget the paved road that goes up from Pie de la Popa. That's the route for cars, buses, and those who don't want to sweat. The secret route starts on the south side of the La Popa neighborhood, specifically at Calle 31 with Carrera 20, where there's an entrance that looks like a dead-end alley. But it's not. There begins a path of irregular stones, some loose, that snakes between colorful houses and mango trees.

The path is about 800 meters of constant ascent, with a slope that in some sections reaches 30%. It's not a technical hike, but it does require care, especially if it has rained (the stones become slippery). Locals who climb every day do it in sandals, but I don't recommend that if you're not used to it. The important thing is that this trail completely avoids the traffic of motorcycles and cars, and gives you partial views of the bay from the first few minutes.

A curious fact: along the way there is a small abandoned chapel, the Capilla del Calvario, dating from the 18th century. No one maintains it, but the neighbors put candles there from time to time. If you pass by before dawn, you sometimes see the light of a candle flickering among the stones. It's a detail that few tour guides mention because they go up by the road.

Sunrise from the Convent's Viewpoint: 360° View of the City and the Caribbean Sea

When you reach the top, right next to the Convento de la Popa, there is a viewpoint with iron railings facing north. That's where you need to be between 5:30 and 5:45 am, depending on the time of year. In June 2026, the sun rises at approximately 5:40 am.

The view is breathtaking: ahead, the bay of Cartagena with merchant ships waiting to enter the port; to the left, the silhouette of the Historic Center with its church towers; to the right, the Ciénaga de la Virgen and beyond the open sea. It's a 360-degree panorama that can only be understood by being there. Photos don't do it justice, but if you bring a cell phone with a good camera or a DSLR, the sunrise with the orange light over the bay is Instagram cover material.

The convent itself opens its doors to the public at 8:00 am, but the outdoor viewpoint is accessible before that. You don't need to pay an entrance fee to see the sunrise. If you want to enter the convent afterwards, the entrance costs around $15,000 COP (reference price for June 2026) and is worth it for the history and the views from the cloister.

Descent and Local Breakfast: Arepa with Cheese and Coffee at the Hill's Square

After descending, which takes about 20-30 minutes if you go carefully, the reward is in the small square at the foot of the hill, in the Pie de la Popa neighborhood. There are several street food stalls that open from 5:30 am. The most famous is Doña Carmen's, a lady who has been selling arepas with cheese, egg, and coffee with milk for over 20 years.

An arepa with cheese costs about $4,000 COP. A coffee with milk, $2,000 COP. It's cheap, it's delicious, and it's the right way to close the experience. Locals sit on plastic chairs, look at the hill they just came down, and talk about soccer or life. If you're a foreigner, they won't look at you strangely. On the contrary, they like that people are interested in these routes that don't appear in tourist guides.

Where to Eat or Drink

Besides breakfast at the hill's square, there are options nearby if you want something more structured:

• La Popular Café (Calle 31 # 20-45, Pie de la Popa): Opens at 7:00 am. They have Colombian origin coffee, artisan breads, and vegan options. A full breakfast costs about $18,000 COP. It's small, with tables on the sidewalk, and they serve quickly.
• Arepas el Checho (Carrera 20 # 30-12): A cart that has been at the same corner for 15 years. They sell arepas stuffed with shredded beef, chicken, chicharrón. They open from 6:00 am. The most expensive arepa costs $8,000 COP. It's perfect if you want something hearty after the climb.
• Panadería La Popa (Calle 30 # 19-50): Opens at 5:00 am. They have pandebonos, almojábanas, and meat pastries. A pandebono with coffee costs about $3,500 COP. It's the place where taxi drivers who work all night go. Authentic, no frills.

If you prefer to wait until you get to the Historic Center for breakfast, you have options like Época Café (Calle del Sargento, Getsemaní) which opens at 7:30 am, but you'll lose the feeling of having breakfast with the locals at the foot of the hill.

How to Get There and Transportation

From the Historic Center or Getsemaní

The easiest way is to walk. From the Torre del Reloj, take Avenida del Lago south, passing through the San Diego neighborhood. It's about 2 kilometers to the start of the trail in the La Popa neighborhood. Walking at a brisk pace, you'll get there in 25 minutes. If you don't want to walk, you can take a taxi or an Uber. The trip costs between $8,000 and $12,000 COP, depending on traffic. Tell the driver to drop you off at the "entrance to the La Popa neighborhood, at Calle 31 with Carrera 20". Most taxi drivers know the area.

From Bocagrande or El Laguito

It's about 4 kilometers. A taxi costs between $12,000 and $15,000 COP. If you're in Bocagrande, you can also take a bus heading to the Center (any that says "Centro" or "Mercado") and get off at Avenida del Lago, near the Torre del Reloj. From there, you walk or take another taxi.

By Mototaxi

Mototaxis are common in the area. From Pie de la Popa to the top of the hill they charge about $5,000 COP, but I don't recommend going up by motorcycle because the cobblestone path is dangerous for them. Better to climb on foot and go down by moto if you're very tired.

Important: the cobblestone path has no artificial lighting. Bring a flashlight; your cell phone's light works, but a headlamp is better. Loose stones and holes are hard to see in the dark.

Local Tips

• Bring a flashlight and extra batteries. The trail is completely dark until 5:15 am. Your cell phone flashlight drains the battery quickly and you'll need it for sunrise photos.
• Wear non-slip footwear. The stones on the path are smooth from use and the morning humidity. Trail running shoes or sneakers with good grip are ideal. No flip-flops.
• Mosquito repellent. On the climb there are areas with dense vegetation and mosquitoes are active from before dawn. Use one with DEET or picaridin. The mosquitoes in Cartagena don't forgive.
• Bring water. At the top there are no stalls until the convent opens (8:00 am). Bring at least 500 ml per person. It's not a long hike, but the humidity makes you sweat more than you think.
• Don't bring a large backpack. The trail is narrow in some sections and a large backpack will throw you off balance. A fanny pack or a small 10-liter backpack is enough.
• Respect the early morning silence. The neighbors in the La Popa neighborhood sleep until 6:00 am. Don't play music or shout. Part of the magic is the silence.
• If it rains, don't go up. The stones become slippery as soap. Wait for a dry day. In Cartagena, rains are usually short, so you can reschedule for the next day.
• A local tip: At the end of the trail, before reaching the convent, there is a metal gate that is sometimes locked with a padlock. Don't worry, the neighbors open it at 5:00 am. If you arrive earlier and it's closed, wait 5 minutes. Someone always shows up.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is it safe to climb Cerro de la Popa before dawn?

Yes, it is safe if you go in a group or alone with caution. The La Popa neighborhood is residential and quiet, and the neighbors are used to seeing people climbing early. The only thing that might happen is you encounter stray dogs, but most are tame. That said, don't leave valuables in sight on the trail. If you go alone, let someone know your estimated return time.

How long does the climb take on the cobblestone path?

It depends on your pace and physical condition. An average person takes between 20 and 30 minutes from the start of the trail to the top. If you go slowly, taking photos and resting, up to 40 minutes. The descent is faster: 15-20 minutes.

Do I need to pay to enter the convent or the viewpoint?

The outdoor viewpoint, where you see the sunrise, is public and free. If you want to enter the Convento de la Popa after it opens (8:00 am), the entrance costs approximately $15,000 COP for adults. But the sunrise experience does not require an entrance fee.

Are there bathrooms at the top of the hill?

There are no public bathrooms at the top until the convent opens. The convent's bathrooms are available for visitors who pay the entrance fee. If you need to go before, it's better to do it before starting the climb. There is a gas station on Avenida del Lago, 5 minutes from the start of the trail, that is open 24 hours and has bathrooms.

Can I climb with children or pets?

Yes, but with caution. The trail has loose stones and slopes, so children must go hand-in-hand and wear closed-toe shoes. As for pets, dogs can go up, but keep in mind there are stray dogs on the path and some are territorial. If your dog is reactive, it's better to leave it at home.

Are there organized groups to climb the hill?

Yes. The local group Cartagena Hikes organizes outings every weekend. They usually meet at 5:00 am at the trail entrance and go up as a group. It's a good option if you're coming alone and want company. You can find them on Instagram as @cartagenahikes. There are also Facebook groups like "Senderismo Cartagena" where they post calls. There is no cost, just bring your willingness to walk.